OEM Electrical System Upgrade II of II: BIG THREE, Grounding Kit Big Brother (HOW-TO)

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Sep 20, 2006 | 12:00 PM
  #41  
hey what group size optima is that?
and if your running your stuff without turning on the car is a blue top better than a yellow top?
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Sep 25, 2006 | 12:38 PM
  #42  
I'm a n00b so go easy. Do we disconnect the factory power connector completely and replace it with the 1/0? Connect the wire directly to the new fuse then to the alternator?

What gauge is the factory sized cable?

What are those two other wires that Metal has connected to the side post terminal on the battery? Relevant to this?

I'm about to install a new alternator in my ride.
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Sep 25, 2006 | 01:34 PM
  #43  
Quote: I'm a n00b so go easy. Do we disconnect the factory power connector completely and replace it with the 1/0? Connect the wire directly to the new fuse then to the alternator?
Yes, this is correct.

Quote:
What gauge is the factory sized cable?
I would not rate it higher than 8AWG.

Quote:
What are those two other wires that Metal has connected to the side post terminal on the battery? Relevant to this?


I think you might be referring to the OEM power leads.

Quote:
I'm about to install a new alternator in my ride.
Nice! If you go for an alternator rated at 150 - 200A, you won't even need to bother doing this upgrade.
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Sep 25, 2006 | 01:35 PM
  #44  
Quote: I have the HPM terminal with the voltmeter and was thinking about te display being upside down. What are your thoughts Dan? I would rather have it oriented so it's readable from the front. Did it not make a difference or was that easier for routing the cables?
You got it, it was simply easier to orient the cables this way. I could probably remove the LED display from the terminal and reinstall it to read the other way...
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Sep 25, 2006 | 03:30 PM
  #45  
Quote: You got it, it was simply easier to orient the cables this way. I could probably remove the LED display from the terminal and reinstall it to read the other way...
metals setup looks sicks as is and i wish i could have something like that...
i have done something similar on my car and the first thing i did was turn the battery around 180 this way the digital terminal sits evenly on the battery and at the same it faces the front... once i had that placed i ran the wires to fit this setup... worked out pretty good and the wire lengths were only 4-6inches different then metals.... just my .02
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Apr 22, 2007 | 08:39 PM
  #46  
Bumping a great thread. What's the reasoning behind the fuse on the alternator to battery positive connection? If I used 4AWG wire for that I would want a smaller fuse, right? 100 amp?

Also, you said your third connection was engine block to chassis but it looks to me like you connected it to the timing chain cover, not the block. Is that good enough or is there a reason to actually connect to the block?
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Apr 23, 2007 | 02:58 AM
  #47  
Another bump for this thread since I will be doing the same mod to my car next month. Now I just need to find some more 1/0 awg wire for this!
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Apr 23, 2007 | 04:38 AM
  #48  
Would you want the fuse to match the wire or the alternator. I would think you would want to match the lower of the two. This grounding and big 3 was actually less wired than most grounding kits I've seen. Granted I used to drive a honda but the recommendation there was always a star pattern of intake, exhaust, frame connected to one location on the block and then that going to the battery or some variety of that but the intake mani and exhaust were always included in that. Never understook the exhaust but I've seen several cars stock that had the exhaust grounded.
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Nov 20, 2007 | 11:25 PM
  #49  
up for pix!
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Sep 29, 2009 | 12:13 PM
  #50  
cant see the pics
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Sep 29, 2009 | 02:42 PM
  #51  
This one will be updated with new pics this weekend. I don't know where my pics are, but I will be redoing this for another member on Friday...so...sit tight...
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Oct 3, 2009 | 06:37 PM
  #52  
Sweeet!
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