Help, 2k2 ECU removal
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 375
From: Katy, Texas
Help, 2k2 ECU removal
Hi,
Right now I'm in the process of removing my ECU from my 2k2 Maxima.
I read the "2000-2001 ECU Removal for TS Flash" in the how to section.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....53#post3192153
But is listed for the 2k & 2k1 models. Will this apply as well for the 2k2??
I'm stuck on #8, I can't see the bolts holding the ECU down.
I'm gona run back outside and take another look.
I'm gona take some picture soonest the camera finish charging.
Any help would be great.
Thanks.
Right now I'm in the process of removing my ECU from my 2k2 Maxima.
I read the "2000-2001 ECU Removal for TS Flash" in the how to section.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....53#post3192153
But is listed for the 2k & 2k1 models. Will this apply as well for the 2k2??
I'm stuck on #8, I can't see the bolts holding the ECU down.
I'm gona run back outside and take another look.
1)Power/slide seats back as far as possible and lift steering column as high as possible.
2)Use 12mm socket to disconnect battery for 10mins. or more.
3)Pull/pop off black lower kick panel on PASSENGERs side of tunnel.
4)Attach wrist strap to ground screw behind/below glove box(anywhere convienient).
5)Push tab and pull black bar from left to right on ECU connector.
6)Push connector up out of the way.
7)Tuck shop rag inbetween carpet and ECU to catch the screw you will drop or else you'll need to add a magnet wand to your tools needed list.
8)Use 10mm wrench(gear type preferred) to remove 1st of 2 bolts holding ECU bracket to floor.
9)Switch to DRIVERs side and pull/pop off black lower kick panel on DRIVERs side of tunnel.
10)Attach wrist strap to ground screw.
11)Tuck shop rag inbetween carpet(probably not necessary, but just incase).
12)Unhook zip tie snap from ECU bracket with needle-nose and flat screw-driver or cut with snips if you don't care.
13)Use 10mm wrench(gear type) to remove 2nd of 2 bolts holding ECU bracket to floor.
14)Push ECU and bracket towards PASSENGER side.
15)Switch to PASSENGERs side.
16)Use 8mm socket to remove 4 bolts holding ECU to bracket.
17)Place ECU in anti-static bag and carefully package for drop&kick protection.
18)Follow TechnoSquares instructions on where/how to ship with filled out form off their website.
2)Use 12mm socket to disconnect battery for 10mins. or more.
3)Pull/pop off black lower kick panel on PASSENGERs side of tunnel.
4)Attach wrist strap to ground screw behind/below glove box(anywhere convienient).
5)Push tab and pull black bar from left to right on ECU connector.
6)Push connector up out of the way.
7)Tuck shop rag inbetween carpet and ECU to catch the screw you will drop or else you'll need to add a magnet wand to your tools needed list.
8)Use 10mm wrench(gear type preferred) to remove 1st of 2 bolts holding ECU bracket to floor.
9)Switch to DRIVERs side and pull/pop off black lower kick panel on DRIVERs side of tunnel.
10)Attach wrist strap to ground screw.
11)Tuck shop rag inbetween carpet(probably not necessary, but just incase).
12)Unhook zip tie snap from ECU bracket with needle-nose and flat screw-driver or cut with snips if you don't care.
13)Use 10mm wrench(gear type) to remove 2nd of 2 bolts holding ECU bracket to floor.
14)Push ECU and bracket towards PASSENGER side.
15)Switch to PASSENGERs side.
16)Use 8mm socket to remove 4 bolts holding ECU to bracket.
17)Place ECU in anti-static bag and carefully package for drop&kick protection.
18)Follow TechnoSquares instructions on where/how to ship with filled out form off their website.
Any help would be great.
Thanks.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 375
From: Katy, Texas
I saw two plastic clips,
But there are also 2 screws one on each side of the ECU.
Do I have to take the just the plastic clips, or just the screws or both?? or is there something else I'm not seeing.
Is really tight in there, makes it hard to work on there.
thanks.
But there are also 2 screws one on each side of the ECU.
Do I have to take the just the plastic clips, or just the screws or both?? or is there something else I'm not seeing.
Is really tight in there, makes it hard to work on there.
thanks.
I just took the small nuts off. I left the plastic clips on, since the clips are connected to the bracket, and I left the bracket on the car...therefore, it was not needed to remove them.(in my case)
Which is very similar if not the exact same procedure.
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 331
Utsutsu You know I was going to post something about this exact same thing concerning ECU removal, but I think I just figured it all out based on the first few posts. This thred was really helpful. By the way may I ask what is wrong with your ECU? And are you planing to have it repaired or replaced? I am planning to replace mine with a new one since the after a thorough examination of the car the dealership told me I had a bad ECU. I am just shopping about for the best deal on a new one, but I am also contemplating on having them install it just in case anything goes wrong I can take it back for a free repair. After all they are gonna credit me for the diagnostic fee if I do it within 90 days, so that means I will pay nothing for the labor upon installation if I have them do it.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 375
From: Katy, Texas
Originally Posted by Redstone
Utsutsu You know I was going to post something about this exact same thing concerning ECU removal, but I think I just figured it all out based on the first few posts. This thred was really helpful. By the way may I ask what is wrong with your ECU? And are you planing to have it repaired or replaced? I am planning to replace mine with a new one since the after a thorough examination of the car the dealership told me I had a bad ECU. I am just shopping about for the best deal on a new one, but I am also contemplating on having them install it just in case anything goes wrong I can take it back for a free repair. After all they are gonna credit me for the diagnostic fee if I do it within 90 days, so that means I will pay nothing for the labor upon installation if I have them do it.
Well there is nothing wrong with my ECU it works fine, I'm just sending it to TechnoSquare Inc. So they can do the L-SPEC upgrade. I wanted to send it as quick as possible so they can get it before the 6th, that way they canl send it back the next day after the upgrade. After the 6th I was told it will take 3 days to send it back.
http://www.technosquareinc.com/limited.htm
They are going to do:
REV limiter modification
We found that with the ECU upgrade, more power can be gained with a higher rev limiter. A 7100 RPM (stock 6600 RPM) rev limit is set to take advantage of top end horsepower, while still providing a safe protection for the motor.
Speed Limiter Removal
The stock speed limiter of 236 km/h (148 mph) has been removed.
Drive By Wire Adjustment
Throught our testing we found, the drive by wire system was program to never fully open (throttle flap) when you smash the accelerator pedal. In fact, it actually closes the closer you get to the rev limiter, by as much as 20%. This restricts air into the motor and causes HP and Torque numbers to go down. We have remapped this setup so when you go wide open throttle, the throttle flap fully opens and STAYS OPEN, increasing HP and Torque.
I realize you're just quoting their site, but get the facts before you post as if you're the one claiming things.
Without a modified intake manifold, your peak will still be far below this new RPM.
Like we really need that.
This has proven to be untrue.
Throttle stays open.
http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...5&postcount=22
Originally Posted by Utsutsu
We found that with the ECU upgrade, more power can be gained with a higher rev limiter. A 7100 RPM (stock 6600 RPM) rev limit is set to take advantage of top end horsepower, while still providing a safe protection for the motor.
Originally Posted by Utsutsu
Speed Limiter Removal
The stock speed limiter of 236 km/h (148 mph) has been removed.
The stock speed limiter of 236 km/h (148 mph) has been removed.
Originally Posted by Utsutsu
Drive By Wire Adjustment
Throught our testing we found, the drive by wire system was program to never fully open (throttle flap) when you smash the accelerator pedal. In fact, it actually closes the closer you get to the rev limiter, by as much as 20%. This restricts air into the motor and causes HP and Torque numbers to go down. We have remapped this setup so when you go wide open throttle, the throttle flap fully opens and STAYS OPEN, increasing HP and Torque.
Throught our testing we found, the drive by wire system was program to never fully open (throttle flap) when you smash the accelerator pedal. In fact, it actually closes the closer you get to the rev limiter, by as much as 20%. This restricts air into the motor and causes HP and Torque numbers to go down. We have remapped this setup so when you go wide open throttle, the throttle flap fully opens and STAYS OPEN, increasing HP and Torque.
Throttle stays open.
http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...5&postcount=22
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 375
From: Katy, Texas
Yes, I just quoted from their site, The reason I was sold by it. It was there are several post about here in the Org and on 350z forums that the technosquare flash actually works. Unlike the JET chip that does nothing. There were even a couple of GD going for the TS flash a while back.
Originally Posted by Utsutsu
Yes, I just quoted from their site, The reason I was sold by it. It was there are several post about here in the Org and on 350z forums that the technosquare flash actually works. Unlike the JET chip that does nothing. There were even a couple of GD going for the TS flash a while back.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 375
From: Katy, Texas
Originally Posted by Puppetmaster
His point wasn't as to whether the reflash will work or how credible TS is, his point was that to take full advantage of the reflash, more work has to be done to the car.
Back on topic, It seems wont be sending my ECU to TS since I can not get the darn thing to come out.
I manage to get the screw out from the second pic, I can not get the one on the opposite side.
From what I can tell, I might have to disassemble the glove compartment and the Center Console to get better access to the ECU bracket.
This is next on my list. I really feel like my motor is being choked up on the top end. How much are they charging you for shipping? Have you dynotuned yet? I've been told that eventhough it's the limited spec you will need to adjust the a/f. let me know how it goes
Originally Posted by maxspeedse02
This is next on my list. I really feel like my motor is being choked up on the top end. How much are they charging you for shipping? Have you dynotuned yet? I've been told that eventhough it's the limited spec you will need to adjust the a/f. let me know how it goes
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 375
From: Katy, Texas
Originally Posted by Puppetmaster
Like Nmexmax said, its not going to unrestrict your high end that significantly. The L-Spec is w/o AF because it was for people who'd rather tune themselves, which based on what I've seen, produces better results than having TS set the AFR for you.
Since TS will not have my car there for them to tune, it will be hard for them to get the AFR correctly. Now if I was close to TS, I would gotten the F-Spec.
Originally Posted by Utsutsu
Since TS will not have my car there for them to tune, it will be hard for them to get the AFR correctly.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 375
From: Katy, Texas
Originally Posted by maxspeedse02
This is next on my list. I really feel like my motor is being choked up on the top end. How much are they charging you for shipping? Have you dynotuned yet? I've been told that eventhough it's the limited spec you will need to adjust the a/f. let me know how it goes
I dyno my car before, when it had the Injen intake and the Greddy, but I changed them. I got a Berk Intake and a Cattman catback now and I'm just waiting for the Cattman headers to arrive. Soonest I get everything install I will have my car dyno tune here locally.
Originally Posted by Utsutsu
I dyno my car before, when it had the Injen intake and the Greddy, but I changed them. I got a Berk Intake and a Cattman catback now
Btw, do you have the runfiles from your dyno? If so, could I take a look at them please?
... . . .
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 375
From: Katy, Texas
I wish I had ask for the run files, I did not know about the since that was my first time at a Dyno. I did however made a post about it, NmexMax posted in there. But when my car gets Dyno tune, I will make sure to ask for the run files.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=482335
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=482335
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 375
From: Katy, Texas
I made some progress in my quest for the ECU. I manage to get 3 screws out of 4. I might have worn out the 4th screw which is making it difficult to get it out. There is 2 screws on the driver side and 2 screws in the passenger side.
I had to take out the glove compartment and the dash underneath the steering wheel. This makes it much easier to work underneath.
I took some pics.
I had to take out the glove compartment and the dash underneath the steering wheel. This makes it much easier to work underneath.
I took some pics.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 375
From: Katy, Texas
I hope someone could help me, I was not able to get the ECU out. So I started to hook everything up. Connected the ECU, the glove compartment cable, and the battery in that order.
When I tried to start the car, it would just crank and it won't start.
I had everything disconnected about 5 days.
Anyone have any idea of what it could be, I never had any problems with the car before. Nissan charging me $75 to tow it to the dealrship, + whatever it is to diagnose, + labor, + what need to be fix.
When I tried to start the car, it would just crank and it won't start.
I had everything disconnected about 5 days.
Anyone have any idea of what it could be, I never had any problems with the car before. Nissan charging me $75 to tow it to the dealrship, + whatever it is to diagnose, + labor, + what need to be fix.
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 331
This is why I decided not to mess with my ECU. In addition I would hate to do all that work and pay $700 to order a new one and then find out something is wrong with the new one after installation. And the down side is there is a no return policy at the stealership for electrical parts. I am having them put mine in beacause they are also giving me a 12,000 mile warranty on the repair and I am going to make sure they print me a copy of that unless it's on the receipt so I don't get screwed later if something happens and someone else tells me there is no such pocily. I usually do most of the repairs on my car, but this I'll leave this one for the stealer.
Check to make sure all your connections are tight. If you disconnected any connectors make sure they snap back fully in place then try to start it again. Since you never succesfully got the ECU out I don't see why the car should'nt start. Good luck.
Check to make sure all your connections are tight. If you disconnected any connectors make sure they snap back fully in place then try to start it again. Since you never succesfully got the ECU out I don't see why the car should'nt start. Good luck.
Is the ECU harness connected perfectly with the black clip securely fastened? If that is even a little bit off, there will be no connectivity. I know this is elementary, but the first time I disconnected the ECU I didn't reconnect it right and the car didn't start either (obviously).
Originally Posted by IllegalMax
its sounds like a ecu is a pain in the ***. my question is - is it even worth instaling a ecu? if so what do u get out of it? and who makes a good ecu? and also what kind of mods do u need?
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