Cleaning Throttle Body On 5.5 gen (2002-2003 only) - Yes or No
I bought a used throttle body on the org, popped it on and the TPS codes went away. I also was able to get the idle air volume re-learn done. But once the engine is shut off, the idle RPM too high code comes back.
Dealer did the procedure using the Consult II and charged me $40.
Ok, so it looks like the next step would be to see about "relearning" via consult II.
Does anyone know of something like this, but for the consult II? http://www.gadgettown.com/nissan-dia....html?ref=base
I just started researching it, but if I can avoid a new TB and get something that can allow me more access for fairly cheap. It might be my best/most fun option.
Does anyone know of something like this, but for the consult II? http://www.gadgettown.com/nissan-dia....html?ref=base
I just started researching it, but if I can avoid a new TB and get something that can allow me more access for fairly cheap. It might be my best/most fun option.
2002 Maxima has the white ODB-II connector.
It works on all Nissan cars that have the grey 14pin consult connector
(you'll usually find it near the fusebox)
(This cars are usually build from year 1989 to 2000)
Models such as: 300ZX, Z32, Maxima, 240SX, S13, S14, Skyline, SR20DE, SR20DET, RB20, Altima, Fairlady
It works on all Nissan cars that have the grey 14pin consult connector
(you'll usually find it near the fusebox)
(This cars are usually build from year 1989 to 2000)
Models such as: 300ZX, Z32, Maxima, 240SX, S13, S14, Skyline, SR20DE, SR20DET, RB20, Altima, Fairlady
You can use any tool that communicates with the ECU to reset the idle speed, not ONLY the Consult-II.
I cleaned my TB last year when I changed my spark plugs and completely disconnected it from the car without doing anything to the gas pedals or blahblahblah. Yeah, it idled at ~800 and the pedal dance wouldn't work, every time you restarted the car, it "forgot" the proper idle air volume.
So I plugged it into our Snap-On Modis we have at work and it reset the idle air volume in about fifteen seconds. It hasn't messed up since.
I cleaned my TB last year when I changed my spark plugs and completely disconnected it from the car without doing anything to the gas pedals or blahblahblah. Yeah, it idled at ~800 and the pedal dance wouldn't work, every time you restarted the car, it "forgot" the proper idle air volume.
So I plugged it into our Snap-On Modis we have at work and it reset the idle air volume in about fifteen seconds. It hasn't messed up since.
.............
Just a question ,
Can I take the TB out of my 2002 , clean it by TB cleaner (and never touch or move plate by hand) then return it back to the car with new gasket ? should I worry about the idle issues or its fine ?
thanks
Just a question ,
Can I take the TB out of my 2002 , clean it by TB cleaner (and never touch or move plate by hand) then return it back to the car with new gasket ? should I worry about the idle issues or its fine ?
thanks
You only have to fix the idle speed if the car idles too high after you reinstall the throttle body. No one has proved, definitively, what causes this.
You only have to use CONSULT-II or some other OBDII tool if the manual method, the "pedal dance," fails to properly reset the idle speed, and the "disable an injector" trick has failed, or the idle speed resets to the improper value (greater than 700 RPM) after the car is restarted.
You only have to use CONSULT-II or some other OBDII tool if the manual method, the "pedal dance," fails to properly reset the idle speed, and the "disable an injector" trick has failed, or the idle speed resets to the improper value (greater than 700 RPM) after the car is restarted.
I thought I read a post about it generally being a bad idea to move the butterfly plate in the 2002 throttle body unless the ignition is on and the accelerator pedal is pressed all the way down. -I might be horribly wrong, and I am not responsible for damaged throttle bodies~!
You only have to fix the idle speed if the car idles too high after you reinstall the throttle body. No one has proved, definitively, what causes this.
You only have to use CONSULT-II or some other OBDII tool if the manual method, the "pedal dance," fails to properly reset the idle speed, and the "disable an injector" trick has failed, or the idle speed resets to the improper value (greater than 700 RPM) after the car is restarted.
You only have to use CONSULT-II or some other OBDII tool if the manual method, the "pedal dance," fails to properly reset the idle speed, and the "disable an injector" trick has failed, or the idle speed resets to the improper value (greater than 700 RPM) after the car is restarted.
So I replaced the TB yesterday... no luck even after a reset.
Looks like i will be looking at a stop at the dealership...
I have avoided them for a few years now (except for occasional part or buying a new car). Hopefully it is just a relearn and nothing more serious.
Looks like i will be looking at a stop at the dealership...

I have avoided them for a few years now (except for occasional part or buying a new car). Hopefully it is just a relearn and nothing more serious.
Yes... i can do the "pedal dance" in my sleep I have done it so many times.
I have even done the injector trick a few times as well as left the battery unplugged for a while. After all that frustration, I gave in and bought a new TB.
While my efforts in relearning have not been so extensive with the new throttle body, I did do the relearn procedure twice with no avail.
If I can avoid a trip to the dealership, I am open to trying just about whatever. I was thinking it could maybe be a bad MAF sensor, or a air leak. This all happened because of a spark plug change with oil one chamber that made me want to change the valve cover. In my mind since everything was already pulled, might as well clean the TB.... Stupid mistake.
I have even done the injector trick a few times as well as left the battery unplugged for a while. After all that frustration, I gave in and bought a new TB.
While my efforts in relearning have not been so extensive with the new throttle body, I did do the relearn procedure twice with no avail.
If I can avoid a trip to the dealership, I am open to trying just about whatever. I was thinking it could maybe be a bad MAF sensor, or a air leak. This all happened because of a spark plug change with oil one chamber that made me want to change the valve cover. In my mind since everything was already pulled, might as well clean the TB.... Stupid mistake.
Yes... i can do the "pedal dance" in my sleep I have done it so many times.
I have even done the injector trick a few times as well as left the battery unplugged for a while. After all that frustration, I gave in and bought a new TB.
While my efforts in relearning have not been so extensive with the new throttle body, I did do the relearn procedure twice with no avail.
If I can avoid a trip to the dealership, I am open to trying just about whatever. I was thinking it could maybe be a bad MAF sensor, or a air leak. This all happened because of a spark plug change with oil one chamber that made me want to change the valve cover. In my mind since everything was already pulled, might as well clean the TB.... Stupid mistake.
I have even done the injector trick a few times as well as left the battery unplugged for a while. After all that frustration, I gave in and bought a new TB.
While my efforts in relearning have not been so extensive with the new throttle body, I did do the relearn procedure twice with no avail.
If I can avoid a trip to the dealership, I am open to trying just about whatever. I was thinking it could maybe be a bad MAF sensor, or a air leak. This all happened because of a spark plug change with oil one chamber that made me want to change the valve cover. In my mind since everything was already pulled, might as well clean the TB.... Stupid mistake.
For everyone.......
Today I pulled the trigger and removed my TB from my 2002 from the car and cleaned it real good
1.Diconnected batter -ve terminal
2.Disconnected MAF
3.Disconnected the harness fom the TB
4.Removed all Allen-type 4 bolts
5.TB came out...
6.Cleaned it off the car real good with a clean rag and CRC intake and TB cleaner (whole can) NEVER moved the butterfly plate by hand
7.Cleaned as much as I reach the manifold hole where the TB sits
8.Used 4 new TB bolts (from dealer) and a new Nissan TB gasket
9.Assembled everything toghther
10.Warm idle is back exactly as it was , ~650
11.So far so good...No idle problems was so ever..No CEL
BUT I never say do it....Do it at your own risk...In my case , it worked fine.
Today I pulled the trigger and removed my TB from my 2002 from the car and cleaned it real good
1.Diconnected batter -ve terminal
2.Disconnected MAF
3.Disconnected the harness fom the TB
4.Removed all Allen-type 4 bolts
5.TB came out...
6.Cleaned it off the car real good with a clean rag and CRC intake and TB cleaner (whole can) NEVER moved the butterfly plate by hand
7.Cleaned as much as I reach the manifold hole where the TB sits
8.Used 4 new TB bolts (from dealer) and a new Nissan TB gasket
9.Assembled everything toghther
10.Warm idle is back exactly as it was , ~650
11.So far so good...No idle problems was so ever..No CEL
BUT I never say do it....Do it at your own risk...In my case , it worked fine.
and the dealer is pointing to the correct thing...Resetting the idle value in the ECU to factory value (when a spanking brand new TB was in your car at 2002..lol)
Last edited by mahanddeem; Mar 10, 2011 at 12:20 PM.
For everyone.......
Today I pulled the trigger and removed my TB from my 2002 from the car and cleaned it real good
1.Diconnected batter -ve terminal
2.Disconnected MAF
3.Disconnected the harness fom the TB
4.Removed all Allen-type 4 bolts
5.TB came out...
6.Cleaned it off the car real good with a clean rag and CRC intake and TB cleaner (whole can) NEVER moved the butterfly plate by hand
7.Cleaned as much as I reach the manifold hole where the TB sits
8.Used 4 new TB bolts (from dealer) and a new Nissan TB gasket
9.Assembled everything toghther
10.Warm idle is back exactly as it was , ~650
11.So far so good...No idle problems was so ever..No CEL
BUT I never say do it....Do it at your own risk...In my case , it worked fine.
Today I pulled the trigger and removed my TB from my 2002 from the car and cleaned it real good
1.Diconnected batter -ve terminal
2.Disconnected MAF
3.Disconnected the harness fom the TB
4.Removed all Allen-type 4 bolts
5.TB came out...
6.Cleaned it off the car real good with a clean rag and CRC intake and TB cleaner (whole can) NEVER moved the butterfly plate by hand
7.Cleaned as much as I reach the manifold hole where the TB sits
8.Used 4 new TB bolts (from dealer) and a new Nissan TB gasket
9.Assembled everything toghther
10.Warm idle is back exactly as it was , ~650
11.So far so good...No idle problems was so ever..No CEL
BUT I never say do it....Do it at your own risk...In my case , it worked fine.
A few months ago, as I was removing my intake manifold to replace the rear valve cover, I decided to clean the TB since it was filthy. Of course I didn't research about it and moved the plate with my fingers... Drove my car for a little while and noticed a high idle + CEL. I then decided to do some research and realized I F'ed up...
I did the idle relearn procedure, idle came back to normal and CEL was gone. But since then, my gas mileage went down 3-4mpg. I used to get about 350/375 miles per tank and now I barely get over 310 miles per tank, without changing my driving habits...
Today I just received a used TB bought on eBay, took the old one out of the car and noticed something was loose inside the old one... see video below:
http://s777.photobucket.com/albums/y...t=DSCN2824.mp4
I'm about to put everything back together and go for a test drive to see if my MPG goes back to normal.

I did the idle relearn procedure, idle came back to normal and CEL was gone. But since then, my gas mileage went down 3-4mpg. I used to get about 350/375 miles per tank and now I barely get over 310 miles per tank, without changing my driving habits...
Today I just received a used TB bought on eBay, took the old one out of the car and noticed something was loose inside the old one... see video below:
http://s777.photobucket.com/albums/y...t=DSCN2824.mp4
I'm about to put everything back together and go for a test drive to see if my MPG goes back to normal.
A few months ago, as I was removing my intake manifold to replace the rear valve cover, I decided to clean the TB since it was filthy. Of course I didn't research about it and moved the plate with my fingers... Drove my car for a little while and noticed a high idle + CEL. I then decided to do some research and realized I F'ed up...
I did the idle relearn procedure, idle came back to normal and CEL was gone. But since then, my gas mileage went down 3-4mpg. I used to get about 350/375 miles per tank and now I barely get over 310 miles per tank, without changing my driving habits...
Today I just received a used TB bought on eBay, took the old one out of the car and noticed something was loose inside the old one... see video below:
http://s777.photobucket.com/albums/y...t=DSCN2824.mp4
I'm about to put everything back together and go for a test drive to see if my MPG goes back to normal.

I did the idle relearn procedure, idle came back to normal and CEL was gone. But since then, my gas mileage went down 3-4mpg. I used to get about 350/375 miles per tank and now I barely get over 310 miles per tank, without changing my driving habits...
Today I just received a used TB bought on eBay, took the old one out of the car and noticed something was loose inside the old one... see video below:
http://s777.photobucket.com/albums/y...t=DSCN2824.mp4
I'm about to put everything back together and go for a test drive to see if my MPG goes back to normal.
Also on the plus side, now when I am at the light, idling, I can't feel any vibrations from the engine. I had to look down at the tach a couple of times because I thought my engine was off

To early to call it a victory. I'll know if my problem is solved after I go through a tank of gas but the sings are promising.
That will make up for the $4 a gallons at the pump
Last edited by Gizm0; Mar 12, 2011 at 11:01 AM.
Update on my situation. I just replaced the throttle body with one that looked brand spankin new. I asked the guy if he moved the throttle plate at all and he said no. He could have been lying but I doubt it. Same problem. High idle -- can not do relearn proceedure. The dealer charged me $91 to hook up his scan tool and tell me that I needed to replace the throttle body. He also wanted 2 hours labor to replace it. I never did it before and it took 30 minutes. I guess they have slow techs at my local dealership. ; ) Now I am hesitant to take it back there and have them charge me another 91 bucks to tell me I still have a bad TB.
Update.... well i finally bit the bullet and went to the dealer. Only problem is they were not able to make the relearn work. Apparently there can be no extra draw on the system (a/c, fans, etc.) and my radiator fans are almost always on.
They feel that my car has an issue with the coolant system. I just replaced the thermostat and did a flush of the coolant... getting pretty frustrated now. Looks like I will be diagnosing that problem now...
They feel that my car has an issue with the coolant system. I just replaced the thermostat and did a flush of the coolant... getting pretty frustrated now. Looks like I will be diagnosing that problem now...
no extra draw on the system? thats bs. your one rad fan is going to always be on. turn off the a/c and the other will stay off. if you have your radio on does it not work? there have been instances where the TB killed the ECU, which could be why your relearn doesnt work
I thought this was a bit fishy. I might try another dealer and see if they can perform it.
If there is anyone in the Chicago area that has a Consult II tool that wants to make a little cash, let me know...
I just came back from a 30miles drive town + highway with a couple of WOT and the OBO reads 28.5mpg average, where it would have read something like 24-25mpg before I changed the TB.
Also on the plus side, now when I am at the light, idling, I can't feel any vibrations from the engine. I had to look down at the tach a couple of times because I thought my engine was off
To early to call it a victory. I'll know if my problem is solved after I go through a tank of gas but the sings are promising.
That will make up for the $4 a gallons at the pump
Also on the plus side, now when I am at the light, idling, I can't feel any vibrations from the engine. I had to look down at the tach a couple of times because I thought my engine was off

To early to call it a victory. I'll know if my problem is solved after I go through a tank of gas but the sings are promising.
That will make up for the $4 a gallons at the pump

I would assume that what's causing the shaking isn't the bad precat and I believe I fixed my misfire issue. How certain are you the TB being the cause of the bad idle?
I took my car to my local Nissan dealer to have the TB cleaned and the idle re-learned so I wouldn't deal with any potential issues.
I'm curious to get your opinions, is it a good idea to change the oil after a TB clean, since some of the dirty stuff cleaned off the walls can get sucked into the engine?? Or just stick with regular oil service interval?
I'm curious to get your opinions, is it a good idea to change the oil after a TB clean, since some of the dirty stuff cleaned off the walls can get sucked into the engine?? Or just stick with regular oil service interval?
Yes, the butterfly valve. I was charged $42 so the TB was definitely not removed. Remember, the key has to be in the "run" position (where the key is when the car is started) to be able to move the throttle plate.
Someone else did a write-up that says to secure the gas pedal fully floored: http://forums.maxima.org/6848584-post28.html
Unplug the MAF connector
Remove an intake/air cleaner assembly from the TB
Turn ignition switch "on" (don't start the engine)
Put transmission on any gear (6 MT)
Floor the accelerator and secure it somehow at this position (I usually push it with a long wooden stick and hang on to a metallic frame of the bottom of the driver seat)
Now you get the throttle fully open and can start cleaning TB and butterfly valve.
Use dedicated TB cleaner (AutoZone ~$3). Spray, let it soak, wipe with a soft cotton rag. Don't use a paper as its' tiny abrasive particles can damage the special coating inside of TB. Do it several times till it's clean.
Use toothbrush to reach dip areas
Don't apply any significant force to the butterfly valve to avoid damaging the servo motor (important!)
When all done you may get some MAF related code, just erase it. Also, you'll get higher idle due to the better air flow (around 700 - 750 RPM). You can live with it or perform an idle relearn procedure. However, driving in this condition I noticed, the pinging that my car usually emits is completely gone. It's back after reseting an idle
Someone else did a write-up that says to secure the gas pedal fully floored: http://forums.maxima.org/6848584-post28.html
Unplug the MAF connector
Remove an intake/air cleaner assembly from the TB
Turn ignition switch "on" (don't start the engine)
Put transmission on any gear (6 MT)
Floor the accelerator and secure it somehow at this position (I usually push it with a long wooden stick and hang on to a metallic frame of the bottom of the driver seat)
Now you get the throttle fully open and can start cleaning TB and butterfly valve.
Use dedicated TB cleaner (AutoZone ~$3). Spray, let it soak, wipe with a soft cotton rag. Don't use a paper as its' tiny abrasive particles can damage the special coating inside of TB. Do it several times till it's clean.
Use toothbrush to reach dip areas
Don't apply any significant force to the butterfly valve to avoid damaging the servo motor (important!)
When all done you may get some MAF related code, just erase it. Also, you'll get higher idle due to the better air flow (around 700 - 750 RPM). You can live with it or perform an idle relearn procedure. However, driving in this condition I noticed, the pinging that my car usually emits is completely gone. It's back after reseting an idle
you are 100 % right I did as you posted and no CEL came on I depressed the gas pedal in all the way famming it with a 2x4 I had against the driver seat.Had the key in run position.Moved the throttle plate manually cleaned it with throttle body cleaner and no check engine light came on !!!! I too screwed up my throttle body when I first bought the car.Ran to ebay to buy another then to the dealership so they can set the ECU !!!! after reading all the hype I went with your info !!! It felt good when I turned the car on and no CEL since then !!!! thanks alot BRO
I cleaned my throttle body when I installed my intake spacers. I purchased carb and throttle body cleaner at AutoZone.
I took the throttle body off and sprayed the fluid onto a rag and wiped it off. Then i moved the butterfly valve with my hand
, and cleaned the area where it sits, it was filthy.
Upon starting my car for the first time, I got the infamous check engine code and surging idle from 1100 rpm to 1600 rpm. I figured that I just needed to an air idle relearn, but I wasn't that lucky.
I tried the gas pedal procedure many times and I did it correctly each time, with no luck.
I talked to one of my friends who is a tech at the Nissan dealer, and he tried to do an air idle relearn using the Consult II, and it still wouldnt take.
By this time I was getting desperate. I figured that I would have to buy a new throttly body.
I decided to try something that I saw on another website and it worked.
I started the car and drove it around until operating temperature, then parked on my driveway. I unplugged all 3 of the front fuel injectors to force the idle lower. A check engine light obviously came on, so I shut the engine off and did the ecu reset procedure. With the engine still off, I did the air idle relearn procedure. It is important that you do not turn the engine on before doing the idle relearn because it will throw a CEL due to the unplugged injectors, and the idle relearn will fail. Well wadda ya know, the idle is right at 6-- rpm.
It took the relearn.
I hooked up the 3 injectors again and did another relearn just incase, and it took fine.
So anyone who is having problems doing an air idle relearn, please try disconnecting 2 or 3 of the injectors and try the relearn again before you let the dealer rape you on the price of a new throttle body.
I took the throttle body off and sprayed the fluid onto a rag and wiped it off. Then i moved the butterfly valve with my hand
, and cleaned the area where it sits, it was filthy.Upon starting my car for the first time, I got the infamous check engine code and surging idle from 1100 rpm to 1600 rpm. I figured that I just needed to an air idle relearn, but I wasn't that lucky.

I tried the gas pedal procedure many times and I did it correctly each time, with no luck.
I talked to one of my friends who is a tech at the Nissan dealer, and he tried to do an air idle relearn using the Consult II, and it still wouldnt take.
By this time I was getting desperate. I figured that I would have to buy a new throttly body.
I decided to try something that I saw on another website and it worked.
I started the car and drove it around until operating temperature, then parked on my driveway. I unplugged all 3 of the front fuel injectors to force the idle lower. A check engine light obviously came on, so I shut the engine off and did the ecu reset procedure. With the engine still off, I did the air idle relearn procedure. It is important that you do not turn the engine on before doing the idle relearn because it will throw a CEL due to the unplugged injectors, and the idle relearn will fail. Well wadda ya know, the idle is right at 6-- rpm.
It took the relearn.
I hooked up the 3 injectors again and did another relearn just incase, and it took fine.
So anyone who is having problems doing an air idle relearn, please try disconnecting 2 or 3 of the injectors and try the relearn again before you let the dealer rape you on the price of a new throttle body.
i wanna know
I don't own it, I'm still paying the darn thing
But, I have a 2003 Nissan Maxima Polished Titanium, build date 10/02.
I have had all the fun codes. 0507, 2122, 2138, 1705. Don't ask..
I can do the ECU reset, and IAVL in minutes. It's very easy, just get the hang of it. I call it the pedal dance.
But, I have a 2003 Nissan Maxima Polished Titanium, build date 10/02.
I have had all the fun codes. 0507, 2122, 2138, 1705. Don't ask..

I can do the ECU reset, and IAVL in minutes. It's very easy, just get the hang of it. I call it the pedal dance.
Decided to clean my throttle body since my 03 max seem to almost die on hot restart. I sprayed down the TB, and even opened the butterfly manually. Turned the car on and the SES light came on. Took off the negative terminal for a ecu reset. Waited about an hour and it did not work.
So I decided to follow the ecu reset and idle relearn. IT WORKED LIKE A CHARM! So far so good, haven't had problems with hot restart.
So I decided to follow the ecu reset and idle relearn. IT WORKED LIKE A CHARM! So far so good, haven't had problems with hot restart.
Decided to clean my throttle body since my 03 max seem to almost die on hot restart. I sprayed down the TB, and even opened the butterfly manually. Turned the car on and the SES light came on. Took off the negative terminal for a ecu reset. Waited about an hour and it did not work.
So I decided to follow the ecu reset and idle relearn. IT WORKED LIKE A CHARM! So far so good, haven't had problems with hot restart.
So I decided to follow the ecu reset and idle relearn. IT WORKED LIKE A CHARM! So far so good, haven't had problems with hot restart.
, because I had that same problem today after I changed the valve cover gaskets and covers yesterday.And you did exactly what I was doing, I was spraying and spraying, opening the butterfly trying to clean it as best possible, not knowing about this problem. And today the car was driving me crazy all day, shaking, crazy idle up and down.
Thanks to this forum I solved the problem without having to spend more money.
It worked!
Hey everyone, I worried about doing this procedure on my 5.5 Gen, but all of the evidence pointed to my issue being some kind of throttle/idle related issue, so I did the process last night.
My issue was on a warm restart, the idle would dip so low after ignition, that it would stall and kill the engine. Only way to successfully keep the engine going on a warm restart was to give it some throttle for a bit, and then it would stay running until the next warm restart.
Went to O’Reily and got the MAF Cleaner (might as well), and the Throttle Body cleaner. First thing was unplugging the MAF Sensor, then started on the few screws that were needed to get into the assembly. At that point, I realized that the band clamp between the MAF and the Throttle Body was really really loose.
(It’s entirely likely that this was the cause of my issue)
But I had gone this far, so I kept going. I removed the MAF and its housing from the assembly, and sprayed it very lightly with a few blasts of cleaner, and set it on the ground. I then put the key in the ignition, turned it to on without starting, pressed the brake down and moved the car into Drive, and propped the gas pedal down. Butterfly valve was open, so I proceeded to use a little rag to act as a stopper, and sprayed cleaner on the back side of the valve for cleaning, trying not to get much behind the valve, and cleaning very gently. Never moved the valve with my hand. Once the backside was clean, I removed the prop on my gas pedal, and cleaned the front of the valve. Then I propped the pedal down one more time to get the runoff from cleaning. I never manually manipulated the butterfly valve, I only moved it by moving the gas pedal.
Once all was dry, I reassembled and it started with a slight sputter, which I was expecting, and it ran like a champ from there on! No MIL codes, no issues, runs better, and solved my problem.
My issue was on a warm restart, the idle would dip so low after ignition, that it would stall and kill the engine. Only way to successfully keep the engine going on a warm restart was to give it some throttle for a bit, and then it would stay running until the next warm restart.
Went to O’Reily and got the MAF Cleaner (might as well), and the Throttle Body cleaner. First thing was unplugging the MAF Sensor, then started on the few screws that were needed to get into the assembly. At that point, I realized that the band clamp between the MAF and the Throttle Body was really really loose.
(It’s entirely likely that this was the cause of my issue)
But I had gone this far, so I kept going. I removed the MAF and its housing from the assembly, and sprayed it very lightly with a few blasts of cleaner, and set it on the ground. I then put the key in the ignition, turned it to on without starting, pressed the brake down and moved the car into Drive, and propped the gas pedal down. Butterfly valve was open, so I proceeded to use a little rag to act as a stopper, and sprayed cleaner on the back side of the valve for cleaning, trying not to get much behind the valve, and cleaning very gently. Never moved the valve with my hand. Once the backside was clean, I removed the prop on my gas pedal, and cleaned the front of the valve. Then I propped the pedal down one more time to get the runoff from cleaning. I never manually manipulated the butterfly valve, I only moved it by moving the gas pedal.
Once all was dry, I reassembled and it started with a slight sputter, which I was expecting, and it ran like a champ from there on! No MIL codes, no issues, runs better, and solved my problem.
You might just check the connections first (no idea why my clamp was so loose!), but it was super easy, only took probably 30 minutes, and only had to remove I think 5 screws/bolts to get at everything. Good luck!
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