....................................

 

I have a 20th Anniversary and I was getting the P0171 with a pending code of P0161 code so after reading the boards I was getting the hesitation etc. and replaced the MAF with a new one. I reset the ECU by removing the neg. lead on the battery for about 3 hours.

I now get the codes P0133 and P0153 meaning both O2 sensors are bad. Is this normal after MAF replacement. Weird that both would malfuntion at the same time. Should I replace the the O2's?

 

My symptoms on my 2000 GLE auto were:
Power Loss
Late shifting
Can Barely go above 60mph (unless i floor it)

Replaced the MAF yesterday.

Result: Virtually No Improvement, car seems to start up and idle more smoothly than before but thats about it.

I'm thinking I may have tranny problems, but i wanted to try this first. I also have 0xygen sensor codes showing, i wonder if replacing those would help.

 

its your vais.

 

Hi i have a 2000 maxima and i'm having problems with idling everytime i stop or if i let go off the gas the engine dies. I have no problems starting it but it keeps dying. I pulled out a code p0505. do you think its MAF? or i need to replace IACV.

 

Thanks to Dave B, got my MAF installed my 2000 SE. OH MY GOD, its like I have a new car. Before, my max would take seemingly forever to get up to speed that I want. You could hear the engine revving up rpm'wise, but it was slow to respond.

Now, the car jumps ahead again. Not so much jumps ahead, but punches forward. I've only had the car a year, and when I got it I was wowed @ the acceleration. I noticed for the first time two days after I got it. Was stuck behind a guys in his 70's in a Volvo station wagon. He was squinting and doing 20mph below everyone else. Dear god it was painful. Went right around him with lots of kinetic energy.

Now its like I'm driving it off the lot in 2000. Performance comes no where close to a year ago. Light years ahead.

Anyone have similar results after replacing MAF?

 

might be a good idea to have a spare and since you have 2k - just be another bill. Some folks do that just in case (goes to show how often they go out). anyway welcome to the wonderful world of common 5th Gen issues.

Dave B FTW....

 

im glad your excited.. common 5th gen prob.. the experience is night and day and it does feel like a new car ,.. MAF repalaced FTW












....but 2 new threads both having the same thing written in them but different titles.. FTMFL

 

i replaced mine 1000 miles ago and have seen no improvement. i wonder if he even replaced it. i just had it serviced 2 months ago; (induction system cleaned, o2 sensors, radiator flush, tranny flush) i have to take it to the dealer for ecu reprogram. got a berk intake on the way, y-pipe in the garage; hopefully my baby will return to glory.

 

So how is your short bus kinda special thread any different from this one? http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=398513

 

Threads merged....

 

I wanted to chime in and thank everyone here. The symptoms I was having were lurching in cold weather right after starting the car, lack of low end power, ran out of breath after 4500 rpm and then most recently the car would lurch and shift hard if trying to accelerate over 4k rpm which scared the S out of me thinking it was a tranny issue.

So I came to the trusty board of which i have been a member since the week it started and ran a search for shift stutter. I then came across this thread and read all 13 pages and decided the MAF was 99% the culprit. So I ordered one from Courtesy, got it today, installed it.. WOOOOW! like everyone said, it feels like a brand new car again. It pulls like a train all the way up to 6k rpm and pulls hard. The shift stutter is gone as is the lurching and all other symptoms. So thank you to everyone and if you are experiencing the issues I listed just drop the 100 bucks shipped and replace the MAF. I have a smile on my face after flooring it and feeling that power again.
Thanks all!
Adam

 

do you always bump 6 year old threads?

OGs gonna OG I suppose

 

Nah, I just wanted to thank everyone here for their their input, and possibly help others who have the same issues solve their problem.. Nothing wrong with that, right?
Plus I never even looked at the date

I have been shopping for 2004 M45's lately (impossible to find)! But now Im gonna keep this awhile longer because the fun is back again!

 

Like I said...OGs gonna OG baby

 

Changed MAF sensor to a 2Y001 yesterdayon my 2000. Have already upgraded spark plugs and changed coils. Was having the problems of idle stumbling and backfiring. Code P0172 (lean in Bank 1). Come to find out I had a cracked Air Duct Hose that was letting air in passed the MAF. Replaced it along with everything else and the car runs great. No reprograming of the ECU. I'll drive it alittle while to see if gas mileage is affected and report my findings. Thanks to everyone for the postings. It was very helpful!

 

That's awesome dude, I JUST replaced mine with the green dot MAF ($90 at dealer) and I only replaced the sensor as my housing looks brand new, at some point when I feel like taking apart my intake then I'll just throw in the new housing too since I have it.

There are so many MAF threads around here that I didn't even know where to post this. But for the longest time, myself along with a few friends just couldn't believe the MAF could have such a huge impact on the car and really be such a huge deal. I was skeptical to say the least, and now after replacing my MAF I realize just how much of an idiot I was for not believing its importance.

My car has 81k miles on it, and my MAF wasn't in too bad of shape. But, its functionality was slowly declining and the problem was sensitivity. I could've easily driven around with the old MAF for a while, but now I'm sooooo glad I changed it. Long story short, my transmission now shifts butter smooth and there's no longer any response lag on acceleration,. There's also no more pointless shifts between 2nd-3rd and 3rd-4th gears when driving in city traffic, the car keeps itself in the correct gear and acts completely different. Finally, the car is able to redline itself in drive now, every time, whereas with the old MAF it would redline sometimes and other times would shift right around 6k or just under 6k RPM (5800) and my redline is custom tuned @ 6800 so clearly this was a big problem.

The MAF truly is of huge importance for the Maxima, and anyone having doubts about their MAF should at least try to clean it and see if it helps, the MAF makes so much difference that if it's bad enough the car could literally die and stall. Mine wasn't even bad yet, but the sensitivity made an absolutely huge difference with the new MAF. The green dot MAF is the only one you would ever need and can be used on any 5th gen (2000-2003), $90 for an absolutely HUGE upgrade.
I also just Seafoam'd my engine (in the intake) and my fuel tank to clean the injectors, which is the first time I did it, and let me tell you the Seafoam made it 10x better as well. Anyone upgrading the MAF, I would suggest it's a good idea to also Seafoam your intake and clean the whole thing up.

 

^ that is called replacing something that's not working properly... far from an upgrade.... smh

 

This thread is 8 years old! Awesome, I almost posted to the OP like it was recent!!! HAHAHAHA!!! Solid thread...

 

Yes, technically you're right. I called it an upgrade because my car has only 80k miles, and most people would've driven with that same MAF forever without ever realizing or even thinking there was a problem. Point being, it wasn't bad enough for your average person to notice, so I called it an upgrade. No need to shake head

To most people, this would be considered an upgrade because to an average person my MAF would have been 100% perfectly fine. This is why I wanted to say it like that, so people that are on the fence about changing their MAF (like I was) and don't know whether they should do it or not know how much of a difference it can make, even on a lower mileage car with a MAF that was quite in good shape.

 

There should be a sticky on mafs because I can not find info
on what part number is the 4 pin maf.

I went to autozone and they gave me a 5 pin maf btw it did not work.
the car couldn't even run right.

There is no part number on my maf housing either.

What's the part number for the 4 pin vs 5 pin? and is there only 4pin vs 5pin or
is there acoule different types of 5pin and different types of 4...

Sorta confusing what I need.