NY00max is your ignition bad?...the 00' model has some heavy ignition problems apparently, "consumer report," or maybe a belt is slipping causing a screaching noise.....ever start your car with the AC turned of first? I had a friend with a ford escort that did this sort of thing, but im not sure what kind of screahing noise you are talking about.....is it a metalic sounding kind?....................well anyway i just replacaed my maf in some random parking lot.....free reved the engine to notice it wouldn't go above 5 rpms. I decided it still was kicking over and took it out on the road. I had to fully throttle it a few times before it kicked in, and now this thing is back to normal if not better....all i want to know also is if reprogramming the ecm is necessary?

 

Im not sure if the ignition is bad but my check engine light is one and i am looking to replace all 6 ignition coils. well i have not free reved my engine but it doesnt seem to pass 3 rmps, once it reaches close to there is falls back down so im thinking i probably have a misfire somewhere.

Does anyone know where i can get the ignition coils at a reasonable price?

 

Ok, I have replaced my MAF on my 2002 se 3 times since about 90k. I was driving to work the other day and it blew again at 119k. Engine went into limp mode and i couldnt rev past 2500 rpm. I pulled into my shop and pulled the code and sure enough it was the MAF. I have a Berk Intake with the K&N filter. I heeded your warnings and lightly oiled the filter to avoid blowing another MAF but it happend anyways. Does it have to do with the Intake or is there something else wrong? i keep getting intermittent EVAP codes and o2 codes. Could that have something to do with it? I was thinking I should go back to the stock airbox being as my problems started after I got the Intake.
I hope this would solve my problem but im not sure. Anyways thanks for any help guys!

 

Just finished replacing the maf sensor. (5 minutes) Removed 2 screws and used a small flat head screw driver to pry up the sensor. Gave up on the idea of replacing the entire body, too much work.
My question is, I noticed the new sensor had two metal tabs sticking out on the body of the sensor, top 1/4 of it. My old sensor didn't have any metal tabs, is this just a newer version?

 

where to buy the maf for reasonable price and not $200 for a 2k max se

 

I think that they should have recalled it with so many people having problems with it i mean it cost me $379 for a new one and that was wholesale from a friend that works for Nissan

 

I bet in 50% of these pages under this thread it's mentioned to get it from Dave B, in Austin.

fyi,
Unplugging the neg. terminal on the battery got rid of ses light. Time will tell how long that holds.

 

Ok i replaced my MAF and i still cannot Rev past 3000....any suggestions?

 

wait wait wait.....it still wont rev past 3 rpms? how long have you driven with the new maf?....mine took about 2 city blocks to kick in.....

 

Hello All,
I am new to the site. Can anyone help!!! I own a 2003 Maxima 6 spd with 55,000 miles. I love the car but I'm having a problem with the MisFire of cylinder 6 with a code of P0306. I do know anything about cars can anyone help!!! After i run the scanner on the car and clear the error code the car will run for about 100 miles than misfire in cylider 6. I would apprecite any help!!!!!!

 

As i posted before I have replaced my MAF 3 times since 90k. I just put a new one in yesterday. Today driving back from lunch and the cel light comes on. P1147 was the code (manufacturer controlled fuel and air metering). this same code has come on each time the MAF blew before. When i installed the new MAF yesterday i checked to see if it was operating correctly and it was. But i noticed while installing the new MAF that someone has "rigged" up a mount for it. A rubber bungie cord going from the bolts that hold the MAF to the adapter plate to the strut tower. Could this affect my MAF? Cause i know when the motor torques up that the Intake moves. Anyways, a mechanic friend of mine told me that a Catalytic convertor can cause CELs to come on such as o2s MAP sensor MAF sensor and so on. I just want to know from someone who is experienced with Nissans, WHAT IS MY PROBLEM??? Why does the CEL come on less than 100 miles since i put the MAF on? PLEASE PLEASE SOMEONE HELP ME!!!!!!!!

 

You have to take it to the dealer to get it reprogrammed. They will download the latest software into your ECU. Supposedly, the new MAF will work much better and give you better readings with the ECU reprogrammed. Also, it will give you better gas mileage.

 

There's a TSB for this code. If your car is a 2k or 2k1 with CA emmissions with less than 70K miles, you can take it to the dealer and get it fixed for free. There, they can tell you if your cat is bad or that the ECU just needs re-programmed. This happened to me about a month ago. I had the code pop up on me twice, so I just showed them the TSB, and they reprogrammed my ECU for free. But, then, I replaced my MAF about a week later (with the newly updated one) and now I may take it again to get it reprogrommed again with the new MAF. My gas mileage went down since the new MAF install. Onelone, if you plan on replacing your MAF with a new one, I would replace it BEFORE you take it to the dealer because, as soon as the dealer hooks up the CONSULT tool, they can tell right away what MAF part you have in the car. Depending on the MAF part number will depend on what software program will be downloaded to your ECU.

 

If you had the MAF sensor DTC code, the ECU needs resetting or the code cleared so that it can recognize the new MAF. Sometimes, it will recognize the new MAF once you put it in...but, at times the ECU will need resetting if the code is still stored. If you don't have a scan tool to clear the code, just unplug the negative terminal on your battery for about 1/2 hr-1 hr, and the ECU will clear all codes, but it will just take longer for the ECU to learn everything again.

 

Hey folks! I have a '00 with just over 91,000 on it. I purchased the car used when it had around 55,000. I experienced the hesitation, rough idling and got a P0138 code from AutoZone. The sensor was replaced and it had been running fine. Lately though (but not too often) I'll start the car and experience a fairly rough idling and hesitation. I have not had a tune-up performed on it. Should this be the first thing I do or could it be the MAF? The thing is that I really don't have a trustworthy mechanic to go to. I'm thinking either MAF or the plugs. Thanks in advance!

 

It's hard to say what is causing your problems. A MAF is a $100 part and a simple DIY project. Changing the plugs is a little more involved. Is your SES light on?

 

I have a 2000 Max, 82k miles on it. Awhile back I had my MAF replaced by the dealer because my car was surging back and forth. Turned out to be a bad spark plug, but still I got a new MAF for free basically. Anyway, my car hesitates whenever my engine is cold, and when its pretty much warmed up the hesitation is gone. I have no problems going up to 3000rpm, and no power loss, when I want to go the car goes. My only problem is the hesitation in the morning or whenever the car has been sitting a good 5 hours. If I semi-punch it, it goes with no hesitation at all, just when I casual drive does it do it. So I don't know if I need a new MAF again, or simply my engine just needs to be warmed up. I got new spark plugs installed, fuel injector cleaner by Nissan themselves, so it pretty much leads to the MAF if there is a problem.

 

Yeah, the SEL has been on. I got the codes pull from AutoZone...misfire on the #6 cylinder and also code for coil pack. The tech at AutoZone told me to change the plugs and wires (general tune-up) and go from there. I believe the codes were P0134 and P0420 but not quite sure. It has trouble starting yesterday too for about 2 seconds. That could be something separate though. 90,000 mile maintenance costs around $650 per the Nissan dealer near me. Is that about right? As always...thanks for the assistance!

 

my cars a little weird. you guys are having a cylinder misfire with a bad maf??? i think my maf is good but once in a while, ill start my car then maybe 5 minutes later i get a cel. i go to the local autostore and it says i had a random cyliner misfire??? i clear the code and it wont come back. this happens every few weeks.

 

It is highly unlikely misfires are due to a bad maf. Some or all of your coil packs are probably done for. Changing them is the best thing to do in this case and since they are going to have the engine cover off may as well change the plugs too. No need to replace the wires though.

 

I had the same problem and sure enough it was the coil(s). I replaced all six since it seems they will all fail eventually once they start going. I found them on eBay from a reputable seller for a good price. Good luck.

 

Would a bad MAF cause a car to shut off in cold weather when trying to start it. My car in cold weather just dies after it cranks unless I give it gas. Is it the MAF or something else.

 

That could be the MAF mine did that too , but it eventually went away

 

As has been stated before, if you have a 5th gen (some years especially) and your MAF has not been replaced after 50000-75000 miles, you should probably replace it. Not out of the blue necessarily, but certainly when something starts to act funny, as in this case. Go for it, its only like 80 bucks and it will increase your power a little bit if you have a worn out unit.

 

Damm I forgot to add MAF to my x-mass list

my cars just feels slow and slugish.....

 

Seen 2 different part numbers referenced here, just wanted to be sure before I ordered.

I have an 01 I30 (Infiniti maxima ), and am pretty sure it needs a new MAF (not rough idle, but I get a drop in power when I lean into the accelerator, like the tranny downshifts, car kinda "putts" for a little and then takes off).

What is the correct part # for an 01 MAF? Also, who would I know if the ECM reprogram is required? Im also getting the famous P0138/P0139 errors, and that too requires and ECM reflash. Does that reflash give me both the update MAF and updated O2 sensor code? Or are they 2 separate flashes?

Thanks!
-Chris

 

I too would like to know the correct current part # for the MAF...too lazy to search the entire thread for it.

I placed an order today with DAVEB to get the updated MAF (I didnt provide him with the part #, he knew it and I didnt bother asking for it) just incase mine ever dies.

 

new maf # is 22680-2Y001 when the new maf is installed you do need ECM reprogramming and only dealers can do that. i dont think you need to reflash your ecu for 02 sensors they are just plug and play. but for maf ECM reprogram is recommended by nissan but some people do avoid that procedure and they end up getting bad gas mileage and poor performance.

 

I have never reprogrammed my ECU, you don't need to do it, just r&r the MAF and then leave your battery disconnected overnight. After that, the car should have forgotten how it compensated for the crappy MAF and relearn your driving style. Depending on who you ask, you should drive it like you stole it for the first 20 miles, but you be the judge.

 

well thats resetting the ECU not reprogramming the ECU. anyway its recommended by nissan but many of us in here do take it as optional.

 

Ya, I had a 2001 and my car wouldnt even stay running until i put a new one in. It was like 150 bucks or so.

 

I have a 2001 Maxima, replaced mine about 6 months ago. Everything has been good since.

 

I had to sign up for max.org. This has been the most info that I have ever found concerning a problem that I was having. I had Dave overnight my maf yesterday. I am going to install it this morning. Hopefully my experience will be similar to most others. I can't wait to go play on the highway with my new found power. Thanks everyone.

 

Hello People,
I am relatively new here. Been following this thread and I think this is my problem, but need ya'lls expert opinion. I have a 2000 SE 5sp w/ 84K miles. I doubt the MAF has been replaced before. I am the 3rd owner. Basically my car will not stay running for longer than a minute, sometimes less. When taking off from a complete stop or from a slow roll, the car will sometimes jerk. When stopped, the cars idle is irratic at best. Going from 900rpms all the way down to 200rpms. It rarely catches itself, it usually dies. When coming up to a stop and I push the clutch in or put it in neutral, the car dies as well. It has gotten so bad that when stopped, I either put the parking brake on or use the left foot on the brake and the right foot for the gas. When I notice the rpms starting to drop and it wanting to stall, even if I give it gas, it's still determined to stall after I let up on the gas. Basically I have to keep rev'ing it until I take off. I also have also started to notice when giving the car WOT, an ever so slight pause in acceleration. I have cleaned the TB, I have tried the idle re-learning procedure as well. My next best guess is that its the MAF. Any thoughts?

 

Yep.....it worked. I bought this car in August of 2004. It has never performed this well. I feel like I have missed out on alot of good times...and tickets. Thanks to Dave B. I ordered the maf on Wednesday at 4:30pm. $110 bucks and it was on my doorstep by 11:00am on Thursday. Dave B is the king. Next project, new tires/struts....

 

there are 75% chances that it could be MAF. but it could also be IACV=idle air control valve. dont forget the spark plugs along with coils. but MAF or IACV could be the main thing that can cause the symptoms you described. goodluck.

 

If you were in my position...what would you look at first? Replace the MAF or the IACV?

 

IF I were in your position i would replace the maf first because if the maf does solve the problem then i could save the money on IACV because IACV cost 2 times more than MAF. so buy a new MAF install it, and see if the problem disapear. if not then try to clean the IACV to see if the problem get fixed, If still not then replace the IACV. as i said MAF or IACV are the only 2 things that i can think of at this moment. I cannot guarantee you that your problem can be fixed by replacing IACV or the MAF so do it on your own risk because i am only here to give you a peice of advice. if you have any other question just go ahead and ask.
goodluck.

 

Thanks for your opinion. I do have another question. What is your take on this thread which seems similar to my symptoms?

http://http://forums.maxima.org/show...30#post1909170

It seems that going to a dealership and having the ECU reprogrammed might also help. This also seems like it would be cheaper than replacing the IACV. Basically I have seen threads stating that replacing the MAF fixed the problem, or the IACV, or the ECU reprogram. I just dont want to perform or most likely in my case pay for someone to fix something that isnt broke. Expecially since I am NOT getting a CEL or throwing out codes like some people were.


Thoughts? Again, thanks for you help.

 

That link doesnt work.
The ecm reprogramming is only needed after replacing the MAF. if you have not recently replaced the maf and have had no SES light on, then there is no need of ECM reprogramming. although dealer cost $85 to $100 for reprogramming but its only necessary with the new MAF otherwise its a waste of money. the way you have described your problem I dont think that getting the ecm reprogram will solve this issue. if your maf is outdated or quite old then replace the maf first and then get the ecm reprogrammed. the best of all is to find out the underlying cause of your problem which can only be done by performing the diagnostic test by dealer or your local mechanic. because you cant just assume things like that. as i repeat that bad MAF or the dirty IACV could cause those symptoms but still you cannot assume that the new maf or new IACV will fix your problem. just get the diagnostic test done before replacing any expensive part.