_-=****Throttle Body Not Fully Opened at WOT?****=_
#2
Originally posted by DeaZaL
I heard that this could be adjusted.. If so HOW? and.. if I did.. would I need to reprogram the ecu?? I heard someone from avalon racing talking about this one time..
I heard that this could be adjusted.. If so HOW? and.. if I did.. would I need to reprogram the ecu?? I heard someone from avalon racing talking about this one time..
#4
Originally posted by DeaZaL
I heard that this could be adjusted.. If so HOW? and.. if I did.. would I need to reprogram the ecu?? I heard someone from avalon racing talking about this one time..
I heard that this could be adjusted.. If so HOW? and.. if I did.. would I need to reprogram the ecu?? I heard someone from avalon racing talking about this one time..
#5
I've seen this before on motorcycle engines..
You adjust the stop screw or whatever it is that prevents the "butter-fly" from opening too far. I haven't been that close to see what's up with ours.
#9
Re: Re: ?
E-mail my race tech @ Jeff@avalonracing.net. He can give you thge details. We have made the throttle body adjustments on Z's on the dyno and have achieved just under 10 RWHP. They key is to get the plate to open at 100%
Regards
Regards
Originally posted by UMD_MaxSE
I think 4 is referring to the voltage drop across the TPS and ground.... right? I'll try and look it up...
I think 4 is referring to the voltage drop across the TPS and ground.... right? I'll try and look it up...
#11
Re: ?
Originally posted by DeaZaL
explain rice boy
explain rice boy
#12
TPS adjusted...
I had to adjust the TPS on my max because the ZEX kit calls for 4.0 Volts at WOT and the max only gives you 3.8 or 3.9. I don't know the truth behind whether or not this allows the throttle to actually open more, but it does allow the ZEX to work properly.
#17
TPS>
The way I did mine was to look on the firewall side of the throttle body and you will see a large sensor that is actually 2 sensors. First you have to find the "hot" wire in these sensors with a volt meter. It will be the one with 3.9ish Volts at full throttle, and about .4 or .5 at idle. Then you look on the sides of this sensor and you should see 2 screws. Very slowly loosen these screws, it doesn't take much force or rotation of the screws to make the TPS loose! Once this is done you can rotate the whole sensor clockwise and counterclockwise. Well all you do now is rotate it while looking at the volt meter and when you see the volt meter move from .5 at idle to about .7 or .8, you are done. This has successfully adjusted the TPS to be wide open and to test your work, check the voltage at full throttle and it should be around 4 or 4.2 volts. Once you are certain that you are finished just tighten the 2 screws back and go test drive. I am not sure how much of a difference you will notice, because when I did mine I was more interested in playing with the nitrous than I was worrying about this extra little power. Good luck and be careful.
Also I just wanted to let you know that if your local dealership finds out it will probably void some warranty.
Also I just wanted to let you know that if your local dealership finds out it will probably void some warranty.
#18
Re: TPS>
Originally posted by nvmymax2
The way I did mine was to look on the firewall side of the throttle body and you will see a large sensor that is actually 2 sensors. First you have to find the "hot" wire in these sensors with a volt meter. It will be the one with 3.9ish Volts at full throttle, and about .4 or .5 at idle. Then you look on the sides of this sensor and you should see 2 screws. Very slowly loosen these screws, it doesn't take much force or rotation of the screws to make the TPS loose! Once this is done you can rotate the whole sensor clockwise and counterclockwise. Well all you do now is rotate it while looking at the volt meter and when you see the volt meter move from .5 at idle to about .7 or .8, you are done. This has successfully adjusted the TPS to be wide open and to test your work, check the voltage at full throttle and it should be around 4 or 4.2 volts. Once you are certain that you are finished just tighten the 2 screws back and go test drive. I am not sure how much of a difference you will notice, because when I did mine I was more interested in playing with the nitrous than I was worrying about this extra little power. Good luck and be careful.
Also I just wanted to let you know that if your local dealership finds out it will probably void some warranty.
The way I did mine was to look on the firewall side of the throttle body and you will see a large sensor that is actually 2 sensors. First you have to find the "hot" wire in these sensors with a volt meter. It will be the one with 3.9ish Volts at full throttle, and about .4 or .5 at idle. Then you look on the sides of this sensor and you should see 2 screws. Very slowly loosen these screws, it doesn't take much force or rotation of the screws to make the TPS loose! Once this is done you can rotate the whole sensor clockwise and counterclockwise. Well all you do now is rotate it while looking at the volt meter and when you see the volt meter move from .5 at idle to about .7 or .8, you are done. This has successfully adjusted the TPS to be wide open and to test your work, check the voltage at full throttle and it should be around 4 or 4.2 volts. Once you are certain that you are finished just tighten the 2 screws back and go test drive. I am not sure how much of a difference you will notice, because when I did mine I was more interested in playing with the nitrous than I was worrying about this extra little power. Good luck and be careful.
Also I just wanted to let you know that if your local dealership finds out it will probably void some warranty.
#20
How to
We are going to do a technical write up and do a few digital shots on this process. Jeff our race tech and fabricator is working on it now.
Regards
Regards
Originally posted by melanthius
Could someone explain this to uneducated folk like me? Much appreciated.
Could someone explain this to uneducated folk like me? Much appreciated.
#21
Re: How to
Originally posted by Avalon Racing
We are going to do a technical write up and do a few digital shots on this process. Jeff our race tech and fabricator is working on it now.
Regards
We are going to do a technical write up and do a few digital shots on this process. Jeff our race tech and fabricator is working on it now.
Regards
thanks.... sounds like a neat thing to try out
#23
The TPS adjustment does nothing performance wise...
It's the Throttle Plate/Butterfly that needs to be "opened up". However, the TPS will most likely need to be adjusted once you mess with the throttle plate.
Someone needs to call Paul or email his tech for some details/pics.
Someone needs to call Paul or email his tech for some details/pics.
#30
Some of you guys are a little confused
Adjusting the TPS sensor alone will NOT give you any performance gains.
Adjusting the butterfly in the throttle body (so that it is straight with the airflow path) will give you performance gains.
Once you adjust the butterfly you will need to readjust the TPS.
I adjusted the Butterfly on my 01 AE only a little as it almost opened all the way from the factory.
I adjusted a friends Butterfly a whole helluva lot and he noticed a considerable gain (his was adjusted very poorly from the factory)
Also high mileage vehicles will see higher gains because over time the throttle cable stretches making the butterfly not open enough.
Adjusting the TPS sensor alone will NOT give you any performance gains.
Adjusting the butterfly in the throttle body (so that it is straight with the airflow path) will give you performance gains.
Once you adjust the butterfly you will need to readjust the TPS.
I adjusted the Butterfly on my 01 AE only a little as it almost opened all the way from the factory.
I adjusted a friends Butterfly a whole helluva lot and he noticed a considerable gain (his was adjusted very poorly from the factory)
Also high mileage vehicles will see higher gains because over time the throttle cable stretches making the butterfly not open enough.
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