Does your driving lights stay on all the time even if the HID's are off (when the car is on of course)?

 

My driving lights stay on when the parking lights or the headlights are turned on. However, they do turn off when you click on the highbeams since the "switched ground" from the lowbeams are cut off and it is shared by the driving lights. But today I tapped the XENONs to chassis ground instead of using the low beam ground from the harness. And it worked just fine. I can now highbeam flash like a mug with out messing up the XENONs. My driving lights stay on also.

Everything is cooooooooooool man. Only thing left is the Alarm issue. I believe SixMan found a fix to it. Need a nice detailed writeup of it so i can do a fix on that.

Dixit

 

Hey Dixit,
I was wondering are you goin to post an update on ur writeups. Thanks Mike

 

Dixit
You're running TOO MUCH power over the stock harness with the HI-beams on. It may work for awhile, but I wouldn't leave the HIDs with 9005 on for too long with both sharing the same power wire. Just my opinion.

 

Thanks for the info, Dixit.

 

I understand it is your opinion. But here is my take on it. Highbeams 65watts, Xenons 35watts. Total 100watts. I know electronics VERY WELL, and I can tell you that the stock wire can handle about 135watts before the insulation starts melting. PLUS I am running the stock fuse and it still has not blown. So yes I am taking a chance but since me and brother (who has a electronic degree and a masters in it) told me there aint "NO WAY IN HELL" I am going to even come close to burning that wire.

So I will remain with this setup. Not flamming, but obviously this is all about preference. I would do your setup, but I think it is too many wires and since I already did it this way, it would require me to rewire more than half the stuff again.

 

is that what the relay will fix? meaning with a relay in-line for the the 12v to the HID/9005 will that fix any potential for melting stuff?
i'll be grounding the HID/9005 power to the car a la ice for now.

 

You're probably correct. However, I've heard of guys running 80-Watt PIAA bulbs and having problems. So, I'm just thinking 95/100-Watts is too much. Oh well, time will tell.

 

I have thought about just upgrading the 12V+ wire for the headlights, but i think it might be as much work as your writeup. So it is kinda of a toss up.

15amp fuse is what almost 100+ aint it? so if I dont blow the fuse I am safe. As long as I dont become stupid an decide to upgrade the fuse to a 20. That is how i see it. Cant go wrong if you dont blow the fuse.

Dixit

 

Hey Ice, look at it this way, two for them two for us. I analyzed both write ups when I did my lights yesterday, and chose to go with yours. Everyone is making a big deal about your write up as being too complicated, but really its only Three differences. One being the inline fuse (which i would want anyways to run both highs and lows, and second being the cutting of the black running light and splicing it into one of the signal lights and running the other high beam wire to a car body ground instead of the Nissan Harness ground. So big deal...

No offense but if anyone out there cannot do EITHER hook up comfortably, then you really shouldnt be in there in the first place. Again just my opinion. So far Big Dog and Ice have exemplified superior technical knowledge and background in the electrical arena. Re: Serin, I dont know, but from what he tells me (big fat Korean!) I wouldnt mess with the guy anyways and me, Ive rewired my entire '92 civic before this gig, so im really comfortable and have experiece too.

You dont need a lot of experience, a previous piaa install or amber lights on install should be just fine!. Right guys.

And Ice, Ive been wanting to email you some mods I think your write up would benefit from, but the moderators have some kind of lock on you email..If you email me, id like to tell you about them.

Dr.Omed HID#4.

 

I agree. I don't see why ANYONE would have trouble with mine over Dixits'. It's basically a couple more connections with the most difficult part being the turn/running lamp rewiring.

Install #2 is clearly the best solution for me. I don't believe wiring the relays is more difficult than plugging on 4-female connectors(per relay) and following the CHEESY shematics I drew to their destination. Anyone can do it! Determining which color wire is what is the HARDEST part and has already been done for you.

This is NOT a difficult install. You just need to decide which setup is better for you and then follow the directions EXACTLY. If you're not sure, just ask.

 

Do you think you could quickly outline the different results the two installation techniques yield? I'm confused as to which one doesn't have the high beams working, or which one has a flickering light, or things like that. This would help me a whole lot in deciding which one to follow.. TIA

 

My writeup has the highbeam problem. ICEs writeup solved that problem. But that is a difference in the writeups. ICEs is more the "politically correct" way.

I solved the HIGH beam problem by simply grounding the Xenons to the chassis. Now my system is basically just like ICEs except that I am running almost 100watts on the 12V+ wire when both Highs and Xenons are on. But I forsee no problem since I aint blown the fuse yet or had anything happen.

Go with whichever one is more comfortable.