2K2 HIDs installed, best mod for the money
#1
2K2 HIDs installed, best mod for the money
Just finished installing the 2K2 HIDs on my 2K Black Maxima. For the $450 I paid and the sweat of diy, it's the best mod I can think of for the money, as far as functionality goes.
Couple of points for those with this mod in their future:
BigDogJonx's instructions get confusing because the wires are different colors on each side of the car. If you need clarification, pm me and I'll give details.
Alex's write up is just plain confusing
Their is a rubber strip on the old lights that you need to remove and glue onto the new lights. Without it, their is a gap between the headlights and the hood where water and crap can get in.
Next weekend, I gotta do the alarm fix so the HIDs don't get hurt. I also got solder and heat-shrink tubing to clean up the install.
Couple of points for those with this mod in their future:
BigDogJonx's instructions get confusing because the wires are different colors on each side of the car. If you need clarification, pm me and I'll give details.
Alex's write up is just plain confusing
Their is a rubber strip on the old lights that you need to remove and glue onto the new lights. Without it, their is a gap between the headlights and the hood where water and crap can get in.
Next weekend, I gotta do the alarm fix so the HIDs don't get hurt. I also got solder and heat-shrink tubing to clean up the install.
#3
Originally posted by Paul6speed
I will never get another car without HID. I am thoroughly impressed with them. Driving at night is much easier now. I wonder how they are in the rain? I've only had my car for 5 days.
I will never get another car without HID. I am thoroughly impressed with them. Driving at night is much easier now. I wonder how they are in the rain? I've only had my car for 5 days.
#4
Re: 2K2 HIDs installed, best mod for the money
Originally posted by Tanmann9
Just finished installing the 2K2 HIDs on my 2K Black Maxima. For the $450 I paid and the sweat of diy, it's the best mod I can think of for the money, as far as functionality goes.
Couple of points for those with this mod in their future:
BigDogJonx's instructions get confusing because the wires are different colors on each side of the car. If you need clarification, pm me and I'll give details.
Alex's write up is just plain confusing
Their is a rubber strip on the old lights that you need to remove and glue onto the new lights. Without it, their is a gap between the headlights and the hood where water and crap can get in.
Next weekend, I gotta do the alarm fix so the HIDs don't get hurt. I also got solder and heat-shrink tubing to clean up the install.
Just finished installing the 2K2 HIDs on my 2K Black Maxima. For the $450 I paid and the sweat of diy, it's the best mod I can think of for the money, as far as functionality goes.
Couple of points for those with this mod in their future:
BigDogJonx's instructions get confusing because the wires are different colors on each side of the car. If you need clarification, pm me and I'll give details.
Alex's write up is just plain confusing
Their is a rubber strip on the old lights that you need to remove and glue onto the new lights. Without it, their is a gap between the headlights and the hood where water and crap can get in.
Next weekend, I gotta do the alarm fix so the HIDs don't get hurt. I also got solder and heat-shrink tubing to clean up the install.
sianara,
the white one
#6
$450 total
Originally posted by woosh
Was that $450 per side or total? If total, please tell where.
Was that $450 per side or total? If total, please tell where.
#7
Re: $450 total
Does DrOmed have an email or website to contact him?
I am very interested in getting the 2k2 units for cheaper than Courtesy Parts price of $1,295.
Thanks.
BTY: Thanks Paul for the AE door sills; I painted them this weekend to match my black interior and they look great!
I am very interested in getting the 2k2 units for cheaper than Courtesy Parts price of $1,295.
Thanks.
BTY: Thanks Paul for the AE door sills; I painted them this weekend to match my black interior and they look great!
Originally posted by Tanmann9
Sorry guys, $450 total. I was one of the lucky ones who got them early from DaveB. My cost was a little more due to tax because I live in Texas where Town North Nissan is located. I only now installed them because the 2K2 clip was on back-order and I've been hesitant to rewire stuff in my car. Now that I've installed them, I feel much more confident about moding the car. Check with DrOmed, he might have some 2K2 HIDs for ~$750 for the pair.
Sorry guys, $450 total. I was one of the lucky ones who got them early from DaveB. My cost was a little more due to tax because I live in Texas where Town North Nissan is located. I only now installed them because the 2K2 clip was on back-order and I've been hesitant to rewire stuff in my car. Now that I've installed them, I feel much more confident about moding the car. Check with DrOmed, he might have some 2K2 HIDs for ~$750 for the pair.
#8
Re: $450 total
Originally posted by Tanmann9
Sorry guys, $450 total. I was one of the lucky ones who got them early from DaveB. My cost was a little more due to tax because I live in Texas where Town North Nissan is located. I only now installed them because the 2K2 clip was on back-order and I've been hesitant to rewire stuff in my car. Now that I've installed them, I feel much more confident about moding the car. Check with DrOmed, he might have some 2K2 HIDs for ~$750 for the pair.
Sorry guys, $450 total. I was one of the lucky ones who got them early from DaveB. My cost was a little more due to tax because I live in Texas where Town North Nissan is located. I only now installed them because the 2K2 clip was on back-order and I've been hesitant to rewire stuff in my car. Now that I've installed them, I feel much more confident about moding the car. Check with DrOmed, he might have some 2K2 HIDs for ~$750 for the pair.
#9
Re: 2K2 HIDs installed, best mod for the money
I am plain just scared....
The 2k2 HIDs are just sitting here in my room collecting dust and crap.. I just dont got the ***** to install them myself. But part of me can't wait for Hogan(yo_its_ok) to install them either, since he's done lots of them.
AHHHH!!!. Oh yeah alex's write is confusing. Ok thats IT. I need motivation for Tuesday Afternoon, thats when i "supposedly" want to install them.
Roger
The 2k2 HIDs are just sitting here in my room collecting dust and crap.. I just dont got the ***** to install them myself. But part of me can't wait for Hogan(yo_its_ok) to install them either, since he's done lots of them.
AHHHH!!!. Oh yeah alex's write is confusing. Ok thats IT. I need motivation for Tuesday Afternoon, thats when i "supposedly" want to install them.
Roger
#10
Re: Re: $450 total
Originally posted by woosh
Can they still be purchased from DaveB for $450?
Can they still be purchased from DaveB for $450?
#11
there's nothing to be scared of...
and I dont think either write up is confusing at all. thing is, their are compromises. both ways have unique compromises. Even Yo's will have some compromises. you just have to understand what they are. (like having to rewire the alarm vs having Highs and Lows together).
#12
Re: there's nothing to be scared of...
Originally posted by TimW
and I dont think either write up is confusing at all. thing is, their are compromises. both ways have unique compromises. Even Yo's will have some compromises. you just have to understand what they are. (like having to rewire the alarm vs having Highs and Lows together).
and I dont think either write up is confusing at all. thing is, their are compromises. both ways have unique compromises. Even Yo's will have some compromises. you just have to understand what they are. (like having to rewire the alarm vs having Highs and Lows together).
Which one uses the relays? & eliminates the 'flickering' which is bad for our ballasts?
tkx!
#13
well...
there never was any flickering.. I believe BDJ or ICE was driving without clips and thought it was flickering, it wasnt, just shaking. That doesnt happen at all with clips. If you wire the two grounds together, the Highbeam light will find ground through the HID ballasts, neither write up does that now.
the outstanding problems are:
-if you ground lows to the body (easiest way to keep the lows on with highs). then you will have HID flash with alarm, unless you some sort of alarm fix.
- if you want highs with lows, when you flash someone during the day, you will also flash your HIDs. Even if you use Yo's diode fix, you'll still have this.
- you must 'mentally' modify the way you control your lights. Let the car turn the lights on and off with the built in battery saver... I leave my lights on "running" setting, and they turn off with the car (or you open the door) and I switch to headlamps (ON) as needed. If you go from Off to ON at night, they will flash when you switch across "RUNNING". So, either let AUTO control your lights or stay on running and switch to ON when you want. If you are on AUTO and its getting dark and they havent kicked on yet, you can simply switch to ON without a flash (as auto hasnt gone into ON). AUTO will not flash during daylight. and rarely at dusk for me. For me, I just turn the **** slowly. If I manage to activate the HIDs accidentally, I just leave there for a few seconds before switching them off.
its not really a big deal.
I'm not sure which way I will go on the alarm deal.. thats really all I have left. I *think* you can remove horn3 relay and while you lose panic and alarm, it wont flash and door locks still work. I'm not sure if thats bad for it or not so I'm not doing that either. The system is redundant and will find ground in the craziest ways.
the outstanding problems are:
-if you ground lows to the body (easiest way to keep the lows on with highs). then you will have HID flash with alarm, unless you some sort of alarm fix.
- if you want highs with lows, when you flash someone during the day, you will also flash your HIDs. Even if you use Yo's diode fix, you'll still have this.
- you must 'mentally' modify the way you control your lights. Let the car turn the lights on and off with the built in battery saver... I leave my lights on "running" setting, and they turn off with the car (or you open the door) and I switch to headlamps (ON) as needed. If you go from Off to ON at night, they will flash when you switch across "RUNNING". So, either let AUTO control your lights or stay on running and switch to ON when you want. If you are on AUTO and its getting dark and they havent kicked on yet, you can simply switch to ON without a flash (as auto hasnt gone into ON). AUTO will not flash during daylight. and rarely at dusk for me. For me, I just turn the **** slowly. If I manage to activate the HIDs accidentally, I just leave there for a few seconds before switching them off.
its not really a big deal.
I'm not sure which way I will go on the alarm deal.. thats really all I have left. I *think* you can remove horn3 relay and while you lose panic and alarm, it wont flash and door locks still work. I'm not sure if thats bad for it or not so I'm not doing that either. The system is redundant and will find ground in the craziest ways.
#14
Re: well...
Originally posted by TimW
...If I manage to activate the HIDs accidentally, I just leave there for a few seconds before switching them off...
...If I manage to activate the HIDs accidentally, I just leave there for a few seconds before switching them off...
Plus, in regards to flashing during normal daylight hours, if I pull back-leave on till the bozo moves (usually more than a couple of seconds to realize a 90mph+ maxima is coming up quickier than your cellphone talking, cig smoking, makeup applying drivers can see) can I injure the ballast? Tim said that is what he does and I am looking for additional clarification.
#15
I would...
in your case, and you like to flash peeps... either leave your HIDs on while highway driving or do not ground the HIDs to the body (or diode them back to HI ground).
Unless we try to get the light combo switch (stalk) off of a 2k2, I'm not sure there is an easy way around this.
Unless we try to get the light combo switch (stalk) off of a 2k2, I'm not sure there is an easy way around this.
#16
Re: I would...
Originally posted by TimW
in your case, and you like to flash peeps... either leave your HIDs on while highway driving or do not ground the HIDs to the body (or diode them back to HI ground).
Unless we try to get the light combo switch (stalk) off of a 2k2, I'm not sure there is an easy way around this.
in your case, and you like to flash peeps... either leave your HIDs on while highway driving or do not ground the HIDs to the body (or diode them back to HI ground).
Unless we try to get the light combo switch (stalk) off of a 2k2, I'm not sure there is an easy way around this.
No stalk replacement for me....just could not justify that cost. BTW, how did you end up installing yours? Relays? Where?
#17
for the record...
I havent decided on an alarm fix.
HIDs
power = shared(hi/lo +12v OEM wire
gnd = body, gnd bolts near lights
High
Power = via relay +12v to batt, 20amp fuse
gnd = to body
original gnd wire triggers relay. one relay powers both.
HIDs
power = shared(hi/lo +12v OEM wire
gnd = body, gnd bolts near lights
High
Power = via relay +12v to batt, 20amp fuse
gnd = to body
original gnd wire triggers relay. one relay powers both.
#18
Power drain?
I'm going to use BigDogJonx's alarm fix, since I used his install instructions. I don't see any problems with the set up. You get lows on when highs are on, and with the alarm fix, the HIDs won't flash. I don't flash people too often, so it's not a major concern. Too dangerous flashing people in Houston
Anyone notice problems with other electronic equipment with the 2K2 HIDS installed? Specifically, my stereo volume is much lower than before. I used to leave it around 15 setting (aftermarket head unit), now I have to crank it up to 25 for the same volume. Only change has been the HIDs...
Anyone notice problems with other electronic equipment with the 2K2 HIDS installed? Specifically, my stereo volume is much lower than before. I used to leave it around 15 setting (aftermarket head unit), now I have to crank it up to 25 for the same volume. Only change has been the HIDs...
#19
thats bizarre..
as the HIDs are less wattage than your oem lows. you could have a leaky ground or a bad ground somewhere.
is your stereo grounded at the same place as the HIDs? or are you tapping off the same battery connection? you could be seeing a voltage drop if it tap in to power on the same wire *after* the connection to the headlights (this is to the battery)
is your stereo grounded at the same place as the HIDs? or are you tapping off the same battery connection? you could be seeing a voltage drop if it tap in to power on the same wire *after* the connection to the headlights (this is to the battery)
#20
Re: Power drain?
Originally posted by Tanmann9
I'm going to use BigDogJonx's alarm fix, since I used his install instructions. I don't see any problems with the set up. You get lows on when highs are on, and with the alarm fix, the HIDs won't flash. I don't flash people too often, so it's not a major concern. Too dangerous flashing people in Houston
Anyone notice problems with other electronic equipment with the 2K2 HIDS installed? Specifically, my stereo volume is much lower than before. I used to leave it around 15 setting (aftermarket head unit), now I have to crank it up to 25 for the same volume. Only change has been the HIDs...
I'm going to use BigDogJonx's alarm fix, since I used his install instructions. I don't see any problems with the set up. You get lows on when highs are on, and with the alarm fix, the HIDs won't flash. I don't flash people too often, so it's not a major concern. Too dangerous flashing people in Houston
Anyone notice problems with other electronic equipment with the 2K2 HIDS installed? Specifically, my stereo volume is much lower than before. I used to leave it around 15 setting (aftermarket head unit), now I have to crank it up to 25 for the same volume. Only change has been the HIDs...
The Alarm Fix worked fine. No problem there, only problem remaining for me is the in the Day with the lights off, if I use Flash-To-Pass, then both the HIDs and the Highs go on.
But to this day I have not flashed anyone in the day.
Dixit
#21
I'm not trying to FLAME, but....
Originally posted by Tanmann9
I'm going to use BigDogJonx's alarm fix, since I used his install instructions.
I'm going to use BigDogJonx's alarm fix, since I used his install instructions.
The added load(although VERY small) could modify the O2-sensors' output voltage which the ECU depends on.
#22
Re: thats bizarre..
Originally posted by TimW
as the HIDs are less wattage than your oem lows. you could have a leaky ground or a bad ground somewhere.
is your stereo grounded at the same place as the HIDs? or are you tapping off the same battery connection? you could be seeing a voltage drop if it tap in to power on the same wire *after* the connection to the headlights (this is to the battery)
as the HIDs are less wattage than your oem lows. you could have a leaky ground or a bad ground somewhere.
is your stereo grounded at the same place as the HIDs? or are you tapping off the same battery connection? you could be seeing a voltage drop if it tap in to power on the same wire *after* the connection to the headlights (this is to the battery)
#23
Re: I'm not trying to FLAME, but....
Originally posted by IceY2K1
I wouldn't use the O2-sensor as the "ignition switched" power source. His "fix" is exactly what needs to be done, but since the O2-sensor uses voltage readings to tell the ECU whether to add/subtract fuel, I personally would find something less risky to tap for power.
The added load(although VERY small) could modify the O2-sensors' output voltage which the ECU depends on.
I wouldn't use the O2-sensor as the "ignition switched" power source. His "fix" is exactly what needs to be done, but since the O2-sensor uses voltage readings to tell the ECU whether to add/subtract fuel, I personally would find something less risky to tap for power.
The added load(although VERY small) could modify the O2-sensors' output voltage which the ECU depends on.
Thanks ICE
Dixit
#24
Re: Re: thats bizarre..
Originally posted by Tanmann9
Well, I grounded both lights to screws on the sides of the car. Nothing else is grounded there. I don't know about tapping any battery connections. All I did was splice the wires according to BDJx's instructions. I haven't started the alarm fix yet, so I'm not tapping any other power connections. Funny thing, the low volume problem occurs even with the headlights off. Thanks for the suggestions. Looks like i'll have to buy a big amp to power my stereo.
Well, I grounded both lights to screws on the sides of the car. Nothing else is grounded there. I don't know about tapping any battery connections. All I did was splice the wires according to BDJx's instructions. I haven't started the alarm fix yet, so I'm not tapping any other power connections. Funny thing, the low volume problem occurs even with the headlights off. Thanks for the suggestions. Looks like i'll have to buy a big amp to power my stereo.
#26
Re: actually...
Originally posted by TimW
as far as flashing during the day... if you get the output from the AUTO unit here we go.. relay number 129!! I'll need to remove the spare so I can fit all the relays I need
as far as flashing during the day... if you get the output from the AUTO unit here we go.. relay number 129!! I'll need to remove the spare so I can fit all the relays I need
Anyways, Why do you want the output from the AUTO unit?
I found the 3-wires to the SECU that come from the AUTO sensor if that's what your talking about. Now I just need to decide on which to cut to eliminate the AUTO position completely.
#29
well...
heh, I thought of tapping the alarm output relay to open a relay for the HID ground wire.. but they might get a few milliseconds of power before the relay opened.... not sure.. thats the SUPER laziest way to go.
#30
Originally posted by Keh mon
Anyone know how to make it so that the headlights don't flash at all when the alarm goes off? That would be the solution I'd go with.
Anyone know how to make it so that the headlights don't flash at all when the alarm goes off? That would be the solution I'd go with.
Check my sig for writeup
Dixit
#31
Re: thats bizarre..
Originally posted by TimW
as the HIDs are less wattage than your oem lows. you could have a leaky ground or a bad ground somewhere.
is your stereo grounded at the same place as the HIDs? or are you tapping off the same battery connection? you could be seeing a voltage drop if it tap in to power on the same wire *after* the connection to the headlights (this is to the battery)
as the HIDs are less wattage than your oem lows. you could have a leaky ground or a bad ground somewhere.
is your stereo grounded at the same place as the HIDs? or are you tapping off the same battery connection? you could be seeing a voltage drop if it tap in to power on the same wire *after* the connection to the headlights (this is to the battery)
So will getting an amp fix the problem with power to the stereo\speakers?
#32
Originally posted by BigDogJonx
If you was paying attention last week, you would have seen that I came up with a solution for that.
Check my sig for writeup
Dixit
If you was paying attention last week, you would have seen that I came up with a solution for that.
Check my sig for writeup
Dixit
#33
Originally posted by BigDogJonx
If you was paying attention last week, you would have seen that I came up with a solution for that.
Check my sig for writeup
Dixit
If you was paying attention last week, you would have seen that I came up with a solution for that.
Check my sig for writeup
Dixit
#34
Tanmann9
really... all the circuitry for the headlamps are pretty isolated from any of the radio stuff. Did you install this radio yourself? do you know where the power is tapped for it? Something really doesnt sound right there. I'm not sure it has anything to do with the HIDs. they would still be FUSED... so what it would take to actually reduce the volume of your radio would CERTAINLY blow a fuse.
Also, most radios will cut off in low voltage situations, not continue to play at a lower volume. and, if you had a illumination wire problem and the lights somehow were finding a path thru your radio, I think it would cause other problems.
I just cant see how thats doing that.
Also, most radios will cut off in low voltage situations, not continue to play at a lower volume. and, if you had a illumination wire problem and the lights somehow were finding a path thru your radio, I think it would cause other problems.
I just cant see how thats doing that.
#35
Volume problem
Hey TimW,
Thanks for the suggestions. I'm ok with the low volume of the stereo for now. Next weekend I'm going to clean up the installation of the HIDs (solder, heat-shrink tubing, end-loops for grounds). If the problem continues then, I'll have to get an amp, front speakers, and a sub soon. I'm a little worried about the electrical problems I might have created by messing around with my car. That's why I waited three weeks after I received the headlights to install them.
Yeah, I installed the stereo myself, with help from Crutchfield's instructions. Hmm, maybe one of the butt caps I used to splice wires in the stereo install came loose? I'll check that!
Thanks for the suggestions. I'm ok with the low volume of the stereo for now. Next weekend I'm going to clean up the installation of the HIDs (solder, heat-shrink tubing, end-loops for grounds). If the problem continues then, I'll have to get an amp, front speakers, and a sub soon. I'm a little worried about the electrical problems I might have created by messing around with my car. That's why I waited three weeks after I received the headlights to install them.
Yeah, I installed the stereo myself, with help from Crutchfield's instructions. Hmm, maybe one of the butt caps I used to splice wires in the stereo install came loose? I'll check that!
#36
Originally posted by Keh mon
Ok sorry about that last post, but I just checked your page and I already know about all that stuff. What I meant was that I don't want ANY of the headlights blinking. If there's an easy way to just stop the headlights (low's and hi) then I'd rather do that.
Ok sorry about that last post, but I just checked your page and I already know about all that stuff. What I meant was that I don't want ANY of the headlights blinking. If there's an easy way to just stop the headlights (low's and hi) then I'd rather do that.
Dixit
#37
Re: Volume problem
Originally posted by Tanmann9
Hey TimW,
Thanks for the suggestions. I'm ok with the low volume of the stereo for now. Next weekend I'm going to clean up the installation of the HIDs (solder, heat-shrink tubing, end-loops for grounds). If the problem continues then, I'll have to get an amp, front speakers, and a sub soon. I'm a little worried about the electrical problems I might have created by messing around with my car. That's why I waited three weeks after I received the headlights to install them.
Yeah, I installed the stereo myself, with help from Crutchfield's instructions. Hmm, maybe one of the butt caps I used to splice wires in the stereo install came loose? I'll check that!
Hey TimW,
Thanks for the suggestions. I'm ok with the low volume of the stereo for now. Next weekend I'm going to clean up the installation of the HIDs (solder, heat-shrink tubing, end-loops for grounds). If the problem continues then, I'll have to get an amp, front speakers, and a sub soon. I'm a little worried about the electrical problems I might have created by messing around with my car. That's why I waited three weeks after I received the headlights to install them.
Yeah, I installed the stereo myself, with help from Crutchfield's instructions. Hmm, maybe one of the butt caps I used to splice wires in the stereo install came loose? I'll check that!
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MaxLife17
8th Generation Maxima (2016-)
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06-27-2019 01:37 PM