I had a shop replace my end links after I stripped the rustly old ones. When I drove it home tonight, I heard a distinct clunking noise out of the front right, and a loose metal sound off the left side. Plus, I looked at both sides with a flash light and both sides are covered in oil.

My first instinct says the shop put each link on the wrong side, e.g. RH on LH and vise-versa. I got the links from Rock Auto, part numbers K90431 (Frt Susp; RH) and K90432 (Frt Susp; LH).

Can anyone else think of a reason it's making the noise, and has black goopy oil on the links?

 

I had the same problem with my MOOG end link. The ends are substantially larger than the stock ones. this causes the bar link to bind between the control arm and the stabilizer bar, instead of being free to rotate. I would buy the spicer ones, which fit perfectly, and call MOOG and tell them that their parts suck. Get this done SOON, caused my ball joint to go bad within about 5k miles.

edit: P.S. the black goop is the grease that the ball in socket is lubed with. If you were keeping them on, i would recomend repacking them with grease, but since the parts are not a good fit for our cars, dont bother.

 

I would just buy the OEM endlinks and call it a day, personally.....that way you know they fit correctly.

Is it possible that the did not tighten them down to correct torque specs.

 

I just replaced both of my end links. It takes very little wear or looseness to cause noise with these links. It's essential that the nuts are torqued to spec. top nut: 37-44 ft/lbs; lower: 36-42 ft/lbs. The OEM links have neoprene grease seals. If the aftermarket ones don't have grease seals......they're cheap!

 

The Spicer links are pretty much identical to the OEM, there is no decernable difference. And they are MUCH cheaper. Your call.

 

I just bought the Spicer links. They should be here on Tuesday. I'm going to take the Moog links off tonight, and roll around without a front sway bar until the Spicer links get here.

I called Rock Auto to see if I could get a refund on the Moog POS links, but they denied.

I used the Moog links on my 4th gen, and it was incredibly smooth. Too bad.

 

Could somebody post a link to the online dealer for the spicer links??

Thanx,
gr

 

rockauto.com

This is a great site to start on for any repairs you are doing. Good selection, fast shipping, and a developing forum for tips.

 

Are you sure this is a good idea?

Try contacting MOOG. Most manufacturers are fairly open to knowledge about what needs changing on their products. I know my company is.

 

Sorry to bump up an old thread.


I seem to have the same problem, Bottom of Endlink seems to be catching/hitting my LCA to the point where I hear all sorts of clunking and thud.

Ive replaced (in order):

BC coilovers
MOOG Sway bar endlinks / MOOG Sway Bar bushing
ES LCA bushings
Pass side axle /Pass side bearing
ES LCA Ball joints


I know its hitting the bottom boot/seal of the endlink because I decided to regrease the endlinks and 6 miles later saw grease spewed all over my passenger side LCA. And I did not pump grease into the endlink till it started spewing out. 3 pumps per joint.


its a soft thud/clunk, make the front passenger side seem loose and disconnected, cant hear it at low/slow speeds, faster speeds it just sounds bad.

 

replacing sway bar end link now with moog. noticed the moog (and in the pic posted at the start of thread) doesn't have a "flange" nut on the inside, just a regular nut. the moog also only comes with flange nuts for the outside. the oem has a flange nut on the inside and outside of assembly. i wonder if we are suppose to:
1. put a washer on the inside of assembly against the moog nut?
2. keep the old flange nut and put it on the inside of assembly?

this could be your problem (of original poster)?
anyone remember or know who has successfully done this?
buck