Wow it's been a while since I've contributed a mod/install so I thought I'd do my 1 good deed for the year. Maybe more, but I won't disclose. :yaimgrinning:

There's been a few questions lately asking for MetalMaxima's Writeup on the Big 3 Upgrade that he's done. I'm not going to take anything away from his writeup, but I know the pics that once were there are now missing. So I did this upgrade myself and took the liberty of sharing my pictures with you. Mine should be around for a while unless Cardomain blows up from a Nuclear Explosion.

MetalMaxima Big 3 Upgrade Threads:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=366445
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=366520
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=366524

Now on to my install......

Yes 0 Gauge wire is overkill. You will be fine with 2 Gauge or even 4 Gauge. I chose to go this route because I don't go "half-***" on my car, and if I'm going to spend money on anything for it, I prefer the best.

Here is a list of materials purchased. Total cost from piecing everything out to get the best deal was approximately $420.00 shipped and that includes my Optima Yellow Top. Anyway, on with the list.

Optima Yellow Top D75/25
11 ft of Stinger Expert Series Oval 0 Gauge Clear Power Wire (Used about 9 ft)
7 ft of Stinger Expert Series Oval 0 Gauge Gray Power Wire (Used about 6 ft)
Stinger HPM Series Inline ANL Fuseholder SHD201
Stinger ANL Platinum Fuse 300 Amp
5 - Sound Quest By Stinger 0 Gauge Power Wire Ring Terminal (Used 4 of 5)
Stinger HPM Series LED Digital Battery Terminal SHT301
Stinger HPM Series Negative Battery Terminal SHT302

Now on with the pictures taken with a Sony Cybershot. Some reason the camera was playing tricks with the digital readout in the pictures, but it was fluctuating around 14.9v to 15.5v with the car on.

The only thing I don't like right now is my OEM battery tie down. I'm currently searching for a nice clean/simple aluminum billet one to replace it. The cardboard is there to protect the Optima from getting corrosion and rust marks from the OEM fugly tie down.

If you'd like to see additional descriptions/install info then you can view my cardomain: www.cardomain.com/id/deckdout2



Sorry a little blurry, borrowed my sis's camera and just copied to my flash drive before I looked at it and only took 1 of this shot.

 

 

You spelled "deed" wrong. Instead of spelling it as "deed" you spelled "dead"

 

LOL that's awesome! Maybe I meant it like that.

Fixed for you.

 

I think you ought to label the ground points and Big 3 points so the n00bs will know what they are looking at.

 

Very nice. I've got the same batt terminal lol haven't got around to doing the big 3 and I've got some 0 gauge lying around.

 

How do you like the results whats your take on it after completed.

 

holy thick wires

 

Looks good but that is some HUGE cable. Good writeup

 

paramy, you planning to run the local housing power grid with those monsters!?!

 

Dude, why is everything under your hood damp? looks like you were working in the rain.

 

So it wouldn't look dirty for the pics is my guess.

Don't try to do the big 3 with the battery connected and there's moisture. Unless you like toast! lol jk

 

When I get my new tie down bar, I'll take some more pics. I'll mark the ground points that are under the airbox for the negative side, and also show the mounting of the oem positive terminal via the new 0 gauge.

I've got my girlfriend's sister's camera tonight, so I might snap some more pics before I get my new tie down.

 

Ya it's a good mod, I've been meaning to do the Big 3 anyway for the past 1 year and a half. It took my battery to die, till I finally said what the heck. I'll just do it all now.

As far as cosmetically, I love it. Definately cleans up the engine bay. My interior lights and gauges are alot brighter. The car seems to start a little quicker. My car seems to run very smoothly. I guess the grounding completes the current or at least improves the current. So far after only having it for a couple of days, I give it an A++ mod.

You forgot to add, "Batman".

No just the generator to the electric chair at my local prison.

My engine bay was pretty filthy, so I just decided to wash it before I took the pictures. I was going to install it in the rain instead of the garage, but I didn't fell like electrocuting myself this time around.

I'm going to give it a detailed cleaning when I put in my new modded engine cover. It should look better as you can see it's still a little dirty, just not as.

 

Impressive. Will definately put this on my to-do list...which is getting pretty long by now lol.

 

i need to do this on my 02...had it on my 00

 

Nice write up and pics. I had Metal Maxima's threads bookmarked, but they are not as helpful without pics. My car NEEDS this badly.

 

I really need to do this in my car

 

The fuse between the alternator post and the battery positive isnt necessary is it? Just a precaution?

 

Yours looks CLEAN!!

It's not a 5th gen, but here's my big three (utilizing 2/0)



My battery is underneath my unfinished amp rack...




Just thought I'd share.

 

Subwoofers sound better facing the other way.

 

Yes, you have to fuse the positive side. You don't want a direct line on the positive side without a fuse inline.

 

I ask because i've been running it without one for about 7 months and havent had any problems(yet).

 

Better for the fuse to blow then to fry the whole electrical system in your car. Depending on the gauge wire, I would put one in. Just make sure to put a big enough fuse for the wire rating.

 

Looks good, would love to see everything inside the car thats being powered by the yellow top.

 

The fuse is supposed to match the maximum current that would go through the wire (alt rating) not the wire size.

 

My wording might have been a little off, my apologies but same meaning. When performing this upgrade, the fuse should be rated for the capacitance of the wire...not the alternator. Reason you rate the fuse for the wire in this case is because you are going from the alternator to the battery.

 

The maximum amount of current that should be going through that wire is the maximum current put out by the alternator. If you get anything more than that there is something wrong (a short) otherwise there is no point of the fuse. The point of the fuse is to protect the battery not the wire.

 

If you read the threads linked in the first post, there's confirmation of my statement.

 

The factory alt obviously doesn't give out 300A. I think you and metal maxima are confused at that the typical wire just so happens to match the fuse. Typically the wire matches the current demand where here it is "overkill". In this situation you picked out a larger gauge wire but didn't increase the current that's going through it. Since you didn't increase the current going through it you DON'T upgrade the fuse. Just because someone wrote up a HOW TO it doesn't mean it's automatically the right way to do it.

EDIT: Actually, if you read the threads you linked you would've seen my reply over a year ago.

 

On a sidenote, is this not the cleanest transmission case you guys have ever seen in your lives? WTF?

 

My "OEM Power Wire" is still intact, with the same OEM Fuse at 120 Amps in it that runs to the Fusebox, starter, and amp. This is an upgrade for the positive side running to the alternator, not a replacement of the positive cable. It is still there under the battery tray. I made a connection from the OEM terminal to the 0 Gauge Wire, then to the new terminal. That is why you see 2 positive cables on the positive terminal.

http://www.bcae1.com/fuses.htm


I guess everybody that does the Big 3 from every site I've sourced so far is completely wrong, because everything I have found has been said to be exactly that.

http://forums.wigm-tuners.org/index.php?showtopic=2273

http://www.amplepower.com/faq/index.html

Many many more out there, just not going to list all of them.......



On the other hand, you are correct if you are fusing for a specific equipment other than the alternator, ie....remote start, headunit, amplifier, and such. Then again, it's usually going to house it's own fuse source within the harness of the equipment for that particular application. That's the only time I am aware of that you would fuse for the capacity of a certain equipment.

And you are also right, just because someone makes a how-to, does not mean that all the information is correct. I however, stand by the information provided here and from all the sources that I have found.

 

It doesn't matter if the OEM wire is still there or not you have to have protection for every wire that is connected to the positive terminal of the battery that could be shorted except for the very short starter wire.




That chart gives a list of the MAXIMUM possible fuse to use with the corresponding wire not recommended or required fuse size for the application. If you go over the MAXIMUM fuse size there is no point. Once you go over the amp rating of the wire the additional current turns into heat and burns the wire up. Like I was saying no point in just matching it with MAXIMUM possible fuse size (300A).



The sources you are using are just bad that's all. You can have more than one bad source that doesn't justify it as being correct. Not everyone understands basic electronics. However, bcae1.com happens to be an excellent source and should give you all the information you would need to pull this off correctly. Maybe you could add me to the source list I have 0 guage alt-batt wire and it's fused at 200A and my HO alt is rated at 220A. I picked a 200A fuse because I know I will never need anything more than that. Some alts that go bad can potentially pose a short in which this alt/battery fuse would blow.

Your fuses should ALWAYS be based on the equipment attached for the best protection.

 

Now that I look through your sources amplepower is actually right but it doesn't describe your setup

You missinterpreted the part that is in bold. Your wire is plenty sufficient. If you were to use a 10 gauge wire for this upgrade than you would match the fuse with the wire (30A) but you are not.

And your other source is just retarded not to mention the crappy knukonceptz battery terminals.

 

sorry mang...but i highly doubt that a 300a fuse fits your application. the fuse you use is not at all dependant on the wire, but on the power draw you're expecting through your system and the point at which it should be stopped.

i mean, you yourself stated that the 0 gauge was overkill, so that would mean that the chart your refer to don't relate to your case.

 

looks clean the it lookd professional and not sloppy.Thats a Good Look for the MAX.

 

That transmission case looks new as hell!