bro, knock that price wayyy down. I wouldn't pay more then 2 grand for that vehicle. It seems to be in nice condition but the trunk being gutted out is a minus, and the speaker and mirror are simple but still a minus. Also check the tires breaks and struts. Have a trusty mechanic check out the engine. Also cold start drive it and push it. take it for a highway run and floor it when merging. If it seems to hold up well, then the car is fine. Cold starting it is key though.

 

Seriously.

 

Sounds like the .Org crowd is luke warm on this car. So, it probably isn't a great deal at that price. You should be able to knock it down.

The advice about checking the SES light sounds useful. If there is a radiator leak then I'd watch out for a possible head gasket problem. Maybe someone can chime in on how to check it. That's a repair you don't want. The little problems you mentioned sound cheap to fix.

 

Geez dude.... thats a lot of miles. I'd pass.

 

thats a good idea. my plan is to go back when i get the money and take it to the nissan dealer thats listed on the carfax report and let them check it out b4 i buy it. the head gasket problem i never thought of. can't you tell if there is a head gasket problem by the smoke color that come out the tail pipe?

 

200k miles isn't such a bad thing. You can have a perfectly fine car with a lot of miles. You guys that say it's too high make it sound like the car is on it's last legs. :P

S

 

Too many miles, i'd pass.

 

talk him down some more....if not have THEM FIX EVERYTHING

 

my family has been buying used cars all our lives.. and fixing **** up is the worst.. cuz something is never right.. but sometimes we get lucky.. i.e my dad bought a 00 accord for $4500, 50k< miles.. but im pretty sure it was rolled back.. but still a great deal and nothing wrong wit it except for stupid stuff like catalytic converter needed to be replaced..

I bought a 93 Lexus es300.. it was fine for the first year, then it started giving me headaches.. an overheating problem that could not be fixed, the tranny was goin bad, gas guzzler like a ****..my spedometer bulbs were burnt out, and finally, my idle control was goin nuts..

Luckily, i picked up an 2k max for $2k, 105,000 miles, but it didnt come problem free, she didnt want it nemore cuz it would stall at lights and stops. After doin some research (thanks MAXIMA.ORG), i bought a maf sensor for $60 on the org, and replaced myself, now its running swimmingly, xcept it need new tires, there are some body damage. the sparkplugs looked like it was never changed, (previous owner was a girl). But for $2k, it was HELLA worth it, 2nd best buy after the Accord.

In conclusion, dont buy cars wit many miles, or many years, things start to break and u dont know why (i.e my lexus). It's always one problem after another. For $3500, buy a 4th gen, or spool out another $1-2k for a 5th gen max. That extra $1-$2k is worth the peace of mind.

From,
Always and forever USED CAR GUY

The END

 

ehhh

 

The mileage in and of itself isn't the problem. The price is just too high for having that many miles. When you get that many miles on a car, things are simply going to wear out and/or break. It often costs more money to fix all the nickel-and-dime stuff than it would to just buy a better, lower mileage car to begin with.

 

Check this out, much better deal minus the bumper gaurds

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nissa...fCarsQ5fTrucks

 

If you can buy with cash then its a good deal. A used car with 147K miles is not worth taking a loan. Otherwise it looks pretty good. It will need repairs and if you want to replace headlights it is pricey. Don't burden yourself with payments on top of the other stuff you'll want or need to do.

 

My Dad used to have a '93 ES300 too. Same deal, transmission was going out (wouldn't shift out of first gear until it warmed up) and the gas mileage was horrible.

 

Price $8,999
Reduced
Body Style Sedan Mileage 81,329 Exterior Color Gray Lustre Metallic Interior Color Frost Engine 6 Cylinder Gasoline Transmission Automatic Drive Type 2 wheel drive - front Fuel Type Gasoline Doors Four Door Stock No. 1051
4-Wheel ABS,A/C,Adjustable Steering Wheel,Alarm,Aluminum Wheels,AM/FM Stereo,Cassette,CD Changer,Climate Control,Cruise Control,Driver Air Bag,Front Wheel Drive,Gasoline Fuel,Leather Seats,Passenger Air Bag,Power Door Locks,Power Driver Seat,Power Passenger Seat,Power Steering,Power Windows,Premium Sound System,Tires - Front Performance,Tires - Rear Performance,Vehicle Anti-Theft System

 

looks nice.

 

i sold cars. this is what you do. drive it, no radio on. don't complain or say anything. drive it and if the sales person is talking politely tell the to shut up. LISTEN and enjoy. if at all possible drive a car like your buying a few days prior so you know how they should ride, handle, accelerate, SOUND, etc.

tell them you want a car fax. read carfax carefully notice where it came from! how many owners etc.

if everything is good low ball by 2 grand and be FIRM, don't get up, don't talk about anything but the price, and don't leave no matter what. sitting an extra 30 minutes to save you 500 bucks is WELL worth it. Oh and the sales people don't make the prices. the sales managers do who make money off the sale as well. your negotiating with the guy you can't see. if the manager doesn't come down and talk to you in person your not pressing enough or lowballin enough. once the manager comes down he'l give you a decent price. either thats as low as he will go or he'll go 'slightly' lower. Don't buy the car untill you speak to the manager just keep saying you need it lower. and don't let them get you into monthly payments. payment buying are SUCKERS.

you can easily walk away with that car for 7,500 + TTT
car looks like it's in great shape and decent miles as well.

good luck let us know how it goes.

 

thanks

 

np!

good luck!

let me know how it goes.

 

Great advice torgus...that max seems like a decent deal once you knock off at least a grand...if it's cold where u are, make sure the heater works =)

 

My suggestion would be - don't bother. And stay away from such used lots - period.

Sure, it might be a good car...but the odds are against it.

 

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...info-here.html

 

that is some good advice jon

 

Look at it in the full sun, makes spotting swirls, scratches, acid rain damage, water etching and evidence of repainting a lot easier. Repainting a trashed finish properly can easily cost more than replacing the engine.

 

Want to buy it- What should I look for please. Price- $5000 cdn. (Watch for burning oil... caught that one in the forums...)

The '92 se max reached 400km and still runs perfectly.... damn that rust!

 

are all used lots bad or just that one?

 

look for any bondo and paint cond

 

Look for a 6sp instead.

 

Ask the dealer for an independent shop to do a full inspection on the vehicle, i.e. frame damage, etc.

 

Torgus is right about low balling, I would lowball 4k. Lots never ever pay above wholesale cost. Lots usually buy the car at 1-2k less than wholesale.

I worked at a dealer and some lots, we always added 4k to wholesale when selling it. One thing I think Torgus is wrong about is, “always be willing to walk away”.

At lots you have a "Liner" and a "Closer", sometimes the same person is the "Liner and Closer". The Liner shows you the car and BS's you about the car and then brings you in for paperwork. Once you fill out the paperwork the "Closer" steps in and takes over. When you cannot get an agreement with him the manager steps in and will say that is all he can do, you stay firm and see if you goes down a little, which he will. Then I tell them that wont work for me, I need it lower, and walk away, and then you get the call.

Torgus is right about “talk about price only”. This way it will not be confusing.

I have done this on all my car purchases. The thing you have to do is, do some research on the car before you look at it. This will give you an idea of how much to buy it for. Maybe Torgus is right, for himself this might have worked. Do what Torgus said or do what I said, it’s your money. Do what works best for you. BTW Torgus, sounds like you have been there and done that.

I hate the 4 square, don’t you?

 

Torgus is dead right about this. If you're not willing to walk away then the dealer has you by the short hairs. Odds are that means that you're willing to OVER pay for the car just to get it because you want it. Not a position you want to be in when you're in negotiations. I've got some of my best deals by walking away. You're ALWAYS going to find a better deal if you're patient enough, you just have to decide when you've done enough shopping. If you see a deal that's TOO good to be true, it usually is.

Either way though, at the end of the day it has to be a deal that YOU'RE comfortable with. What's the car worth to YOU? If you can get the car out the door for a price you're happy with and you've done your homework on the vehicle then you're good.

Definitely lowball them as much as you can though. I just bought my 01 Maxima as a commuter car and it was advertised at a local dealer for $7995. I told them I wanted it out the door for $5000. The first guy chuckled and at the end of two days...leaving once...I got the car for $5500 out the door. Worth it to me, but I might have been able to do better.

 

thanks torgus for the advise. i saw the car drove it. it was smooth n clean except for some noise in the back that i heard. The dealer said he will have it checked out. And one of the tires need to be changed. Overall the car is in mint condition. I low balled the price as you suggested. Men these guys wont give in. I started from 7000 with tax included to 7500 with tax and told dude that 8000 with tax was my maximum, i was willing to pay. I told him that i wanted to speak to his manager who was not avaliable at the time. He said the best he could do for me was 8500 without tax. i told its 8000 with tax. He took my number down and said he would give me a call. So i wait a day or two, if i dont get a call will call back an see where he stands.
Torgus if he does not give in to my offer, whats should be my next move? I honestly like this car. It has everything i was looking for in a maxima 02. Any suggestion. Thanks guys, you have all been a great help.

 

Guys, really, could anyone give me a short answer on what usually goes on a 5th gen of higher km? That's supposed to be the focus of this thread.

I have a 3rd gen. My answer would be:
1. Great car, can easily get 400,000 km and more
2. They are prone to rust- wheel well, firewall, under spoiler)
3. If you hear ticking, it's the VTCs. Expensive job but does not necessarily affect performance.
4. If the door locks don't work, it's prob a timer. Easy junkyard replacement.
5. Starter is simple to replace.
6. Clock and heater panel will dim too much. Replace at junkyard.
7. Can have issues with water on the floor- firewall rust or a/c leaking.

There it is- 5 years of reading forums - a 3rd gen (92 se) summed up in a nutshell. Can someone please do this for a 5th. Gen?
Thanks

 

grey, fully loaded, 6 speed, 02, baige leather. its in Virginia so im hopping im not making the wrong choice posting this since im looking into it. but its been up for sale over 90 days... its a dealer btw, has 130k and he wants 67 cash. I've received interior pics and its not too shabby, needs a little cleaning. doesnt have floor mats so with a good clean and new floormats it'll look good. few small things.. center console inside has a crack. max is pretty clean. btw its custom, dropped. asked what type of manufacturer and didn't get a response but "a really expensive one" has an intake sway bar and exhaust which looks to be megan? not to sure.. anyone in Virginia seen this? heres the link to its craigslist..http://richmond.craigslist.org/ctd/900858064.html hopefully someone won't jump on this before i get a chance.. reason im posting btw is because i live in Charlotte Nc and its pretty hard to find a 6 speed.. down side its in Virginia and i dont feel like driving 5 hours to find a problem the dealer didnt inform me about. So...anyone in Virigina seen it???
if so... why hasnt it sold.... for a dealer its not that bad a deal? btw front grill is custom, a friend on the org said that might be from a accident cause the oem grills are pretty pricey. Anyword would be helpfull, Thanks!

 

Oh, forgot to mention, btw its a CLEAN title. But assuming ima probably do a carfax check soon.
anyways anyone??

 

No ones seen it?? emailed the dealer again today and he said he won't drop lower then 67 since hes already "dropped 1500 below listing price".. which is bs im sure. Also claims that only reason it hasnt sold is because of no one having cash in hand but hes somewhat taking trades.. depending on car.. anyone....?

 

from the looks of it.. its not too bad with the price but i would still negotiate a little.. just find minor problems with it and try to lower the price.. i got my max for 7200 out the door because the dealership hadn't sold a car that day and they were desperate to sell one lol.. the car came in over the weekend and they hadn't even set a price but said itd be around 8995 or so but we got it for 7200 with the doc fee and everything

 

Hello Everybody,
I have a question but dont know if its been asked already; so I'm gonna risk it.
I've always been curious to know since they're somewhat the same dimension in wheel base, if the rear seats from the infinity I35 would fit right in our maximas (you gotta love those head rests). But I dont think its the same leather. Has anyone ever tried the experiment? Or even thought about it?
It is now opened for discussion....!!

 

Ask the question here: http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...on-thread.html

 

Did nissan make an auto 5.5gen with Hlsd?