MOOG VS OEM Front Sway Bar End Links
04-05-2009, 06:12 PM
#44
I installed those and new swaybar bushing on friday and man the car feels like it did when it was new. Not a sound over bumps. All you hear is the tires over bumps. Man my bushing and links were shot to hell. I used Moog end links but OEM bushings cause I was afraid that the ES bushing would transmit to much impact harshness into the car
04-05-2009, 06:21 PM
#46
How'd you use the drill to get it off? That's the only "power" tool I have but don't see how I could use it. And which nut did you do first, the top or the bottom? Both sides of mine seem impossible to remove.
04-05-2009, 06:41 PM
#47
I started with the bottom nut on both sides, not sure if it matters though. I had the car on jack stands with both wheels off. the bottom bolts came out just fine with some extra torque. don't think it would have came off if I didn't use a breaker bar to give me more torque. That's the only drill I had also. didn't think it would work but it did. what i did was just drilled one side of the nut and when it was all messed up from doing it I used some vise grips and just turned the nut and it finally started to turn. here's why i thought it would work. "the nut has 6 sides if you take away one side that's only 5 sides holding that nut on, less holding power with only 5 sides" and it was the top nut that i had trouble with.
04-06-2009, 12:31 AM
#52
I would just tighten them butted and 1/4 turn the torque figures are reasonably low, some hit that crap with an impact....torques are as follows... top (swaybar end) fastener (37-44 ft-lbs), lower(LCA end) fastener(36-42 ft-lbs)!
04-06-2009, 04:09 PM
#54
04-06-2009, 05:39 PM
#55
I'm about to order a set from Rock Auto, I have a 2k1 Max SE 20th ann, I found the following part number #
K90431 RH
K90432 LH
On the picture they show the adapter to grease it so I just want to make sure they are the one. Can anyone confirm if that is the right one.
Thanks
AA
K90431 RH
K90432 LH
On the picture they show the adapter to grease it so I just want to make sure they are the one. Can anyone confirm if that is the right one.
Thanks
AA
04-06-2009, 06:00 PM
#56
I'm about to order a set from Rock Auto, I have a 2k1 Max SE 20th ann, I found the following part number #
K90431 RH
K90432 LH
On the picture they show the adapter to grease it so I just want to make sure they are the one. Can anyone confirm if that is the right one.
Thanks
AA
K90431 RH
K90432 LH
On the picture they show the adapter to grease it so I just want to make sure they are the one. Can anyone confirm if that is the right one.
Thanks
AA
04-06-2009, 07:54 PM
#57
That's exactly what I did.
04-19-2009, 05:09 AM
#60
Banned
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: NJ
Posts: 103
I was advised by Energy suspension customer service that the best way to know is to measure the size. So i measured it with a vernier calipers from Harborfreight tools for $1.99. The size is 23mm, but it is for a 03 max.
04-20-2009, 08:35 AM
#63
I started with the bottom nut on both sides, not sure if it matters though. I had the car on jack stands with both wheels off. the bottom bolts came out just fine with some extra torque. don't think it would have came off if I didn't use a breaker bar to give me more torque. That's the only drill I had also. didn't think it would work but it did. what i did was just drilled one side of the nut and when it was all messed up from doing it I used some vise grips and just turned the nut and it finally started to turn. here's why i thought it would work. "the nut has 6 sides if you take away one side that's only 5 sides holding that nut on, less holding power with only 5 sides" and it was the top nut that i had trouble with.
Also, I only need one nut for each side of a Moog end link, right? There should be nothing between the sway bar & the actual joint, correct?
04-29-2009, 07:31 AM
#66
Banned
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: NJ
Posts: 103
I installed those and new swaybar bushing on friday and man the car feels like it did when it was new. Not a sound over bumps. All you hear is the tires over bumps. Man my bushing and links were shot to hell. I used Moog end links but OEM bushings cause I was afraid that the ES bushing would transmit to much impact harshness into the car
05-31-2009, 07:05 PM
#67
Awesome
Did these yesterday and have got to say I wish I did these alot sooner (would highly recommend replacing when doing struts). Not only is the clunking gone over uneven pavement, but the car just feels alot firmer (alot of sloppiness is gone). Best $40 spent yet on the maxima.
If you have front end clunking & on the factory sway bars, highly consider replacing the endlinks.
One note is that living in the northeast made these difficult to remove.
If you have front end clunking & on the factory sway bars, highly consider replacing the endlinks.
One note is that living in the northeast made these difficult to remove.
07-20-2010, 10:05 AM
#68
Bumping this up to ask...
What kind of grease are you guys using, and how often would you guys re-inject grease into the endlinks?
I was playing (pause) with my MOOG sb endlinks yday after the LCA was taken off and they seemed considerably looser (play wise) than how I remember when i first installed them, over 13k NYC miles ago. Wanted to know if I should grease them up before I shell out the $$ to get another set of these (not that they cost a lot) incase they fail.
What kind of grease are you guys using, and how often would you guys re-inject grease into the endlinks?
I was playing (pause) with my MOOG sb endlinks yday after the LCA was taken off and they seemed considerably looser (play wise) than how I remember when i first installed them, over 13k NYC miles ago. Wanted to know if I should grease them up before I shell out the $$ to get another set of these (not that they cost a lot) incase they fail.
07-21-2010, 10:14 AM
#69
Cruzin', I did the same thing a week ago and agree it made a huge difference. I did the sway bushing and tie-rod ends at the same time, but my front end now feels almost as good as new - and maybe a hair tighter. 105k miles. 7 years of NE winters - I had to use a hack saw blade to take one off.
Dingle - did you grease them up when they were installed? coming (mostly) dry from MOOG they feel tighter than when you fill them with grease. I filled them up a bit off the car and noticed a big difference in being able to move them by hand. I got a grease gun and loaded it with red n' tacky, but if was to do it again I'd prolly spend another $4 for the tube of green grease.
Dingle - did you grease them up when they were installed? coming (mostly) dry from MOOG they feel tighter than when you fill them with grease. I filled them up a bit off the car and noticed a big difference in being able to move them by hand. I got a grease gun and loaded it with red n' tacky, but if was to do it again I'd prolly spend another $4 for the tube of green grease.
07-21-2010, 10:40 AM
#70
Cruzin', I did the same thing a week ago and agree it made a huge difference. I did the sway bushing and tie-rod ends at the same time, but my front end now feels almost as good as new - and maybe a hair tighter. 105k miles. 7 years of NE winters - I had to use a hack saw blade to take one off.
Dingle - did you grease them up when they were installed? coming (mostly) dry from MOOG they feel tighter than when you fill them with grease. I filled them up a bit off the car and noticed a big difference in being able to move them by hand. I got a grease gun and loaded it with red n' tacky, but if was to do it again I'd prolly spend another $4 for the tube of green grease.
Dingle - did you grease them up when they were installed? coming (mostly) dry from MOOG they feel tighter than when you fill them with grease. I filled them up a bit off the car and noticed a big difference in being able to move them by hand. I got a grease gun and loaded it with red n' tacky, but if was to do it again I'd prolly spend another $4 for the tube of green grease.
no I did not :\ So green grease is what is used...thanks.
I read that using the wrong kind of grease can make it worse, thats why I inquired. I'll be ordering the following asap:
http://www.harborfreight.com/sta-lub...ase-40712.html
+
http://www.harborfreight.com/grease-...rip-66664.html
07-21-2010, 10:49 AM
#71
Any EP rated grease will work fine; the only real argument seems to be to use moly or not. Look like you decided yes :-D
They are probably toast though, driving 13k NE miles with no grease. When you fill them up, I'd keep pumping until grease comes out the top of the seal - if it looks like metal paste is oozing out, you pretty much have your answer.
They are probably toast though, driving 13k NE miles with no grease. When you fill them up, I'd keep pumping until grease comes out the top of the seal - if it looks like metal paste is oozing out, you pretty much have your answer.
07-21-2010, 10:58 AM
#72
Any EP rated grease will work fine; the only real argument seems to be to use moly or not. Look like you decided yes :-D
They are probably toast though, driving 13k NE miles with no grease. When you fill them up, I'd keep pumping until grease comes out the top of the seal - if it looks like metal paste is oozing out, you pretty much have your answer.
They are probably toast though, driving 13k NE miles with no grease. When you fill them up, I'd keep pumping until grease comes out the top of the seal - if it looks like metal paste is oozing out, you pretty much have your answer.
well it came pre-greased, it felt pretty sturdy prior to install.
but yea the real test will come soon. I dont have any knocking noises or anything, cars super smooth (just did new ball joints, had those prior to install greased) just wanted to be ahead of the game.
last question, can i do this with the links still bolted on and the car on jack stands or must they be removed (no stress on them).
and yes, moly is an iffy subject, but i read positives on them. Any reason why I shouldnt use it? Thanks for all the help.
07-21-2010, 11:11 AM
#73
First off I am no expert; I credit this thread for having me take this on and search for my own answers. I have no opinion on the moly debate except to say I'm pretty sure it is 99% academic.
Pre greased? You mean the grease that MOOG puts in? That's basically just enough to let them sit on a shelf and not rust. When I pushed out MOOG's grease, I'd guess it was 5% of the volume you'd need to fill them - pretty much nothing.
As long as you installed the grease nipples, yeah grease them on the car. That's the whole idea of greasable chassis parts - easy access during oil changes. I'm probably going to drill and tap the sheetmetal ball joint covers with grease nipples to get to those as well during oil changes.
Pre greased? You mean the grease that MOOG puts in? That's basically just enough to let them sit on a shelf and not rust. When I pushed out MOOG's grease, I'd guess it was 5% of the volume you'd need to fill them - pretty much nothing.
As long as you installed the grease nipples, yeah grease them on the car. That's the whole idea of greasable chassis parts - easy access during oil changes. I'm probably going to drill and tap the sheetmetal ball joint covers with grease nipples to get to those as well during oil changes.
07-21-2010, 11:14 AM
#74
First off I am no expert; I credit this thread for having me take this on and search for my own answers. I have no opinion on the moly debate except to say I'm pretty sure it is 99% academic.
Pre greased? You mean the grease that MOOG puts in? That's basically just enough to let them sit on a shelf and not rust. When I pushed out MOOG's grease, I'd guess it was 5% of the volume you'd need to fill them - pretty much nothing.
As long as you installed the grease nipples, yeah grease them on the car. That's the whole idea of greasable chassis parts - easy access during oil changes. I'm probably going to drill and tap the sheetmetal ball joint covers with grease nipples to get to those as well during oil changes.
Pre greased? You mean the grease that MOOG puts in? That's basically just enough to let them sit on a shelf and not rust. When I pushed out MOOG's grease, I'd guess it was 5% of the volume you'd need to fill them - pretty much nothing.
As long as you installed the grease nipples, yeah grease them on the car. That's the whole idea of greasable chassis parts - easy access during oil changes. I'm probably going to drill and tap the sheetmetal ball joint covers with grease nipples to get to those as well during oil changes.
Thanks again for all your help.
08-08-2010, 01:06 PM
#75
QQ, did anyone add a washer to the lower bolt (inner side) of the end link? I noticed today my passenger side was sliding (probably loosened over the last few months). The kit did not come with washers and the backside looks like it could use them. Anyone?
08-08-2010, 04:17 PM
#76
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 5
i'm wondering the same thing. replacing sway bar link now and noticed kit only comes with 2 "flange" nuts for the outside (also heard them called "Sway bar link nut" but it looks like a nut and washer combined). the old assembly used flange nuts on the inside and outside. if yours is unscrewing, it may be because we are suppose to keep the old flange nuts on the inside too... looks like moog kit only has a nut on the inside with no washer, not a flange nut. anyone who's successfully done this know? in the middle of replacing mine...all help greatly appreciated.
buck
buck
08-08-2010, 05:17 PM
#77
i'm wondering the same thing. replacing sway bar link now and noticed kit only comes with 2 "flange" nuts for the outside (also heard them called "Sway bar link nut" but it looks like a nut and washer combined). the old assembly used flange nuts on the inside and outside. if yours is unscrewing, it may be because we are suppose to keep the old flange nuts on the inside too... looks like moog kit only has a nut on the inside with no washer, not a flange nut. anyone who's successfully done this know? in the middle of replacing mine...all help greatly appreciated.
buck
buck
I do think a washer on the inside nut would help.
08-24-2010, 04:39 PM
#78
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 5
Has anyone tried to adapt the 02 Altima rear endlinks to a 5th gen Maxima? They are adjustable & from the pix, they look like there is a chance they could work. http://racinglineperformance.com/sho...&idcategory=18
08-25-2010, 06:39 AM
#79
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: North Shore, MA
Posts: 1,795
Has anyone tried to adapt the 02 Altima rear endlinks to a 5th gen Maxima? They are adjustable & from the pix, they look like there is a chance they could work. http://racinglineperformance.com/sho...&idcategory=18
They are more expensive than the MOOG and may not fit........and its not like you see the part so there's really not much novelty to it.....
Just get the proper MOOG's for the maxima and be done with it.
08-25-2010, 12:28 PM
#80
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 8
Just installed mine a couple weeks ago...should have took pics... they are real easy to install except when the bolts are rusted on and you gotta saw them off ... and yes i used moog and they are sweet