KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

Well it's not much of a how-to really, and it's not much of an upgrade either.

But nonetheless, a Reman from AZ done by the same company is $160 for a '96 I30 (125 amp stock w/125 and 110 amp options, 110 = $130'ish IIRC) vs $210 for a '04 I35 (110amp stock w/no 125 amp aftmrkt option listed)

So, i30/gle = $160 125amp
5.5 gen = $210 110amp

There's really nothing to it. the pulleys all line up the same and everything, you just need to use a hammer to tap the bushing until it lines up with the location of the 5.5 gen one. If you lay them both on the table with the pulley facing down, you will see that they are nearly identical and what needs to be changed.

Hold the aluminum casing nearest the bushing between the edge of the table and your stomach, than tap, you don't want to be tapping the bushing on that mount while resting the alternator on the pulley, you could snap the case or do damage to the alty, this will all become apparant and if you can handle replacing your alternator you are smart enough that this will be common-sens to you.


See the difference:



Make it look like this, not hard guys:


That's it, install as usually. The stock 5.5 gen bolt IS long enough, the 4th gens larger casing DOES clear the large section of a/c line.

Also, don't forget to put antisieze on everything, or AT LEAST on the compressor bracket bolts, and this puppy:



It absolutely amazes me that nissan made it harder to do the alternator by changing the bolt set-up, the long bottom bolt was WAYYY easier to do (14mm gear wrench) when it was on the driverside and you didn't have to completely remove the tensioner pulley, I hate dlcking around with the tensioner pulley.

Also, don't forget that just because your brake and battery light is on, it doesn't mean the fault lies inside the alternator! Make sure to do a voltage-drop test OR just clean up the three connections (Don't forget the one 1inch from the battery terminal) & wiggle the connector for the warning light.

hi-tek22

iTrader: (4)

wish i had known this when i did my alternator last month

Torgus

iTrader: (10)

nice write up KRRZ350!
if mine goes i know what i'm replacing it with!
thx bro!

Weeble1

iTrader: (8)

Nice job man!
Here is my .02...
I had 3 reman alternators. Each one died in 3 months or less. I went to NISSAN and got one and I never had a problem after that. I will never go with reman again. If a NISSAN alternator is not in the budget then this is the way to go for sure. Nice job and good info!

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

I think Nissan re-mans can be hit or miss as well, and most of the times with starters or alternators they are usually re-mans, at least for me, and who knows where they are done, wouldn't be suprised if it's mexico as well, I've gotten brand new 4th gen serp belts that say "made in india" "japan" and "usa". The 5.5 gen ones seem to always be made in Japan though. I'd be curious for DaveB's input on this.

Also, I'm going to assume that you did a voltage drop before condeming all of those?

i gotta agree with you though, kinda, nissan alternators seem to suck *****, alternators in general do, they have a REALLY high failure rate. I was pissed shortly after I joined the org, regarding the alternator on my moms old '99 I30.

2-years prior I was sitting in a drivethrough when I saw smoke and smelt burning. Popped the hood and could clearly see it was the alternator, so I had a buddy come down with tools and I pulled the belt so I could drive it home. Did my first A3x alternator in my driveway and I'm pretty sure I payed $279 for it to boot, only to have it be junk right out of the box! Come to find out the thing had a damn safety recall and could have been done for free.

Anyways I'll update this thread pretty soon with pics once I tear into the old one, the pulley had a wobble to it I could see after it was out. I gave them a completely wasted alternator that miraculously made it to 175k than sat outside for a year or two (feel bad for the dude who gets that one, probably gonna come back real quick). When this one failed, the bearings sounded great , and it feels good, I listened to it with the stethescope prior to removal as well and it sounded good (If you've ever done this before you'll know even a good alternator sounds like ****) so I'm hoping it's just an internal connection or a bad diode that I can swap from another alternator, we'll see,

Scottwax

iTrader: (8)

Appreciate the info!

kcxd35

iTrader: (2)

sticky...

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

On reman Starters always check or change the starter relay cause a faulty or highly worn relay can damage your New starter and result to premature failure. I'll go pay the extra for a new or Nissan reman b4 going to a local auto parts where all the hardware has been bead blasted and none of the installed hardware is protected with the cadium plating it had when it was new. Nissan Remans have all new hardware which is cadium plated and will handle the weather or ill climates more reliable! My original starter on the D21 lasted for 174,000 B4 it failed that'll beat any aftermarket starter allday!!!!

SilverGLE

iTrader: (21)

I've had my rebuilt alt from AZ for the last year or so with no issues... Then again, when I first bought mine, it was DOA (didn't know this until the mechanic installed it and it didn't work). I took it back to AZ, where they tested it, then took another rebuilt one (after testing it) back to my mechanic to install. PITA because this had to be done in the middle of the work day. Thankfully, the rebuilt alts from AZ have lifetime warranties, which covers labor to install, because I had to pay the mechanic to install 2 alts.

johnd900

Hey guys-
I know this is an old thread but it seems like a good place to add a question rather than starting another alt thread, I've read most of them...

My 5th generation Maxima had very dim lights coming home the other week but I was on the highway so it seemed as though it would make it home. I had no idiot lights on but when I slowed down the things went dimmer and stuff started shutting off, like the radio.

So I assumed it was the alternator... Hit the junkyard for a $50 alt figuring saving some $$. Thanks to this forum I learned the tricks for the pull. Alt #2 went in, put on a new serp belt pretty easily. Stick I meter on the output after starting the car to see 5.6V output. Out with alt #2...

Ordered a brand new alt (#3) from Rock Auto that night. Wait four days for it to come in. Get it, put it in, get the meter and wha-la 0.5V output!!!!

Wha-wha-wha-what!?!?!?

I don't have great luck in the car department but three bad alt's with one new (not rebuilt) out of the box? I question the odds of that.

So my question. Is there possibly something that I'm missing here? Could it be something else? The connection to the alt appears to be good. The alt fuse is good. The rotation of the new alt seems fine...

Wait... I recalled something. For alt #3 the belt was an absolute nightmare to get on. Alt #2 it was no biggie. I think something is slightly different with the alt #3. Maybe tab size is slightly larger, pulley could be a fraction of an inch larger, etc. Maybe the combo of multiple things could make different enough to make the belt quite tight? Not sure...

Sorry I'm such a wordy poster... TY

johnd900

I got nothing else to check, going to pull alt#3 and bring it Autozone and have it tested...

johnd900

Well got the #3 alternator to AZ and found it was bad too. Got one from them, had them test it first! The first one they pulled from the shelf tested bad! Second one was good. Got it mounted and then broke the tensioner bolt... oiy vey....

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Are you loosening the bolt in the center of the tensioner pulley?

DjHackStyle

Dont understand how u broke the bolt if you installed 3 alternators in a row u should be familiar with that installation you could probably throw another one in under 30 minutes.

Just for ppl not familiar, Make sure you lossen the idler pulley nut before touching the tensioner bolt

tosheto

iTrader: (5)

All alternators for the 4th gen, 5 and 5.5 should be very similar. I own 2001 Maxima that I purchased with dead alternator and I just put 5.5 alternator in it. Has been working for the past year with no issues. Bolted up without any modification too.

johnd900

Yup, alternator was the culprit! So the original alt (#1) I had went. The one from the junkyard was a gamble granted (#2), but they gave me a full refund. Then alt #3 from Rock Auto was junk, that one needs to go back and I'll get refunded for that one. Finally, while I was in AZ having the RA alt tested I had them test one off their shelf (#4) for me to buy. The first one off the shelf was junk, glad I had them test it before coming home. The second off the shelf was good. So back in the car now, and like I said I managed to break the tensioner bolt. How? Not sure I had it good and loose, but it must have jammed up somehow and it snapped. I found one in the nearby city at Auto International ($44). I just sucked it up and went and got it. I slathered that baby with anitseize!!! When I mounted up the AZ alt (#4) the belt went right on no problem. I think I must have screwed up that tensioner somehow... Who knows... When I put the multimeter on the alt output wha-la 16V! nice!

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

16 VOLTS??? no no no!!! spec is 14.1 volts to 14.7 volts.

DjHackStyle

16v sounds too high, mayb cuz its new or ur battery was weak, run it a little then keep checking it should stay at ~14.1

luvlexus101

iTrader: (6)

16V is def too high, I would look into that. I got mine from advanced auto parts. First one worked perfect.