Anyone know of a fix for the bose sub cut off problem in the 01's? Is it an issue for other 01+ owners?

I opened my little black box up according to the directions in this thread, but alas the innards of the bose system is different in my 01 than in Teddie18's 00.

I'm not having a problem with the left side speakers cutting out. Just the sub.

Here's a cut and paste of my post in that thread telling about where I am with my car:

The CB in my 01 AE is different than the one pictured. There is no small CB like this one, only one inside the outer cover that bolts onto the back of the bose sub. I pulled it apart and I don't see any broken solder joints on either side of the board. With the CB installed, the sub cuts in and out when I tap the box that holds the CB.

As far as bypassing it, there are 5 wires going into that cirquit board. Full 12V power, ground, and 3 smaller (maybe 18 guage) wires. I'd rather not give the sub the whole range anyway.

Any thoughts?

My next step if nothing comes up here is to send it to these folks (orger linked in another thread):
http://www.carstereohelp.com/nissanBoseMax.htm

 

or you can fool around with your sub, and if you mess it up or something, just buy a used one and it'll be cheaper than having to send it out to those guys and waiting to get it back. FYI, I have a sub and amp for sale in the classifieds.

 

by visual inspection on mine i did not have any broken solder point but after using a magnifying glass i found the broken point

 

It happens to me once in a while. I leave home to go to work pounding the bass. After picking up starbcks coffee, sub cuts out but comes back to life when I'm pulling into my work parking structure. Probably have a loose connection.

 

Can you take a pic of the sub under the black box and post it here or e-mail it to me. Although mine is 2K, after I removed the cross-over filter it no longer cuts out. Your set up should be similar...

 

Do you mean the innards of the amp? I can pop it back open if that's what you mean.

 

Cut the 3rd one off for whatever reason.

 

Ah, the pics don't show the harness in the rear. So on the harness before the sub, there should be another section of the wiring that is removable and has same connectors as the sub, if you remove it and plug wires directly into sub, it should get rid of the cut out...

 

The problem seems to be that silver box... (anti pop/high pass filter)
the 2000's had a connector that you could swap out.. these don't.

Edit - Fix found - I put my pics in Post #39

Thank you all!

 

hopefully someday this can be fixed. I have asked way to many times before to no avail. There is only a fix for 2000's...not for us.

 

I've removed the "black box," foam thing, whatever you want to call it from my sub because the sub stopped working. I didn't repair it or anything, I just removed it and plugged the sub directly in. Yes there is a pop at startup and shutdown but it isn't that big of a deal and I've had no problems with it for over two years. Sorry for you 2k1 guys.

 

If anyone knows how to test for the positive wire to the sub.. let me know.. is it as simple as probing the wires while grounded trying to find one with a 12v when the sub is on?
I'll gladly go out on this rainy day and start probing wires

 

DjCalvin, exactly where on the circuit board did you find the burnt trace?

 

That's on the underside - 4 traces in the right middle going down.

Turns out that wasn't it though. I put it back in the car today and the sub works.
has still cut out on me numerous time today, no difference.

 

You could just put 2 12" Kenwoods in your trunk...

 

nah, I'm beyond the trunk rattle thanks...

 

its called dynamat duh....haha but in all seriousness as long as you have your sub tuned and in the right box trunk rattle isnt that bad

 

hehe, I really wish most cars would come with dynamat standard.. would save me the headache of putting it on the 1st day I get a car...

although... now that I think about it, if Infinity made a Kappa perfect 8" I'd be all over it. I'd replace the bose in a heartbeat.

 

I will admit two 12" is a tad overkill...one 10" prolly would have been sufficient....when I drive by the school you can hear my car inside the rooms in the middle of the school (ONLY if I really have it pounding lol)

 

I have tried everything to fix my subwoofer in my 02 Max...but nothing. Same problem wehn I tap on it ...it work for awhile then cuts off again. I removed everything from the sub. Tightened all the connections, removed the foam and reinstalled everything extra tight. Sub still cuts off but not as much.

If we cant find a way to fix this in this forum...Then I think theres is no fixing it.

Im just gonna mount a amp where the bose amp is and replace the woofer in the rear deck. Just got a Power Acoustik PTID 4007 Razor.

 

i have an 03 max, i got it in august. the bose sub hasnt worked ever since i had the car. i did a visual inspection of the sub and connections to the amp, and everything looks okay. the 4 door speakers and 2 tweeters work great, just the sub doesnt work. i really want to get the bose sound in my car, any ideas or suggestions? and you said you have subs for sale, is that the stock bose? if so, how much?

 

For the 5.5 gens...we're screwed.

I took mine apart last spring -- didn't see a problem anywhere!
It's like trying to find a needle in a haystack.

I'm kind over worrying about it...and I'm too old to be spending ca$h on new subs and amps.
They'll just get stolen anyway -- as ALL of my others did eventually.

Somebody figues this one out...I think we should PAY them for the effort!!

gr

 

There is a wire under the sub it might be the problem, I had to change mine u need to locate a junk yard for that though it was a really annoying chase i tell you..

 

problem is quite simple, there's a relay on the sub pc board, some of the pins have a bad welding, just use an electronic welding iron and some flux, and redo the welds on the relay pin, I had the same issue on my 00 max SE, and after many hours of troubleshooting, i found the issue and fixed it. Haven'y had any sub issue since then ( 4 years ago )

 

One more thing I forgot, once you fixed the relay pins welding, check the ''audio'' fuse in the fuse boxe in the engine compartment, driver side, near the headlight, on the fender, it will probably be blowned, mine was....

 

For about 2 years my Bose subwoofer was cutting out when I had the stereo at medium to high volume. I have to say that teddie18's fix for the Bose subwoofer cutting out was brilliant. Not sure how he figured that one out but I'm glad he did. A lot of what he did is applicable to the '01 and I was able to repair mine based on his advice. Bass has been back for a week now with no problems. Hope this works for a few more people.

Here are the steps to fix the '01:

1. Remove the black subwoofer assembly which is held in place by 3 hex screws. Drop the black housing down. No need to disconnect the wires.
2. In the black housing there is a metal box which houses the circuit board. Remove the 4 screws and take out the box.
3. Disconnect the red and green connectors by pulling down on them. Take note of which side they connect to for the reinstalling later.
4. Gently pry off the metal box top with a small flathead screwdriver. The circuit board will be exposed.
5. Gently pull up the circuit board. Mine came out without too much struggle.
6. When you look at the circuit board you should see that there is a grey box. There are solder joints that look almost identical to the ones that teddie18 has identified in his photos. I resoldered 7 points in total. Basically all the ones that looked like they were attached to the underside of the grey box. If I was smart I would have taken the circuit board to someone a bit more skilled at soldering such small contact points, but things still worked out.
7. Reverse the steps to reinstall all parts and you should be good to go.

Good luck.

 

I'm glad to see that the 2001 has a fix now. Great job!

 

one 12 is good enough for me..

 

Thank you all for this thread. It has been very helpful to assist me in my sub cutting out. I have a 2001 Maxima SE w/ Bose system. Like an idiot, I was removing the wire harness attached to the subwoofer amplifier and accidentally removed the wires from the harness and I am not sure what the correct order is. The wire colors are red,white,green,black,black/grey and the plug has two wires on top and 3 on the bottom.

I searched the internet to find a wiring diagram and was unsuccessful. The most I found was a picture from this link

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgu...=/images%3Fq%3

(it's the picture all the way at the bottom of the page and the harness is in the guy's hand)

I need to see the order of the wires on the other side of the plug. Any ideas would be much appreciated.

 

I think this is what you need. Below is the diagram of the connection and the codes for the color of the wire. You want to look at the wires between B124 and B123. The sequence of the wires in the connector is displayed in lower left of the diagram.
B = Black
W = White
R = Red
G = Green
L = Blue
Y = Yellow
LG = Light Green
BR = Brown
OR = Orange
P = Pink
PU = Purple
GY = Gray
SB = Sky Blue
CH = Dark Brown
DG = Dark Green
When the wire color is striped, the base color is given first, followed by the stripe color as
shown below:
Example: L/W = Blue with White Stripe

 

is there away to bypass the circuit board

 

If you read through this thread you'd find that someone has all ready answered your question.

 

What's wrong with posting to a thread that has been inactive for a month? People do it all the time here. As long as the question, comment or answer is relevant to the thread why not post? It may help someone.

 

Sorry if I overlooked it but did anyone ever come up with a 2K2 fix?

 

yea i understand they did, but they did not expent it will .

they sayed i need a high-pass fiter and i was looking for it on-line and there are so many. i would like to to know which one i need . and how to do the bypass

step by step !!!

thats what i am asking

 

how did you fix you bose sub, do i just have to cut the wires , and and put white on (+) and black on (-)

 

It's better to add on to an old thread than start a new one. This way all of the information about a specific issue stays in one place and you don't have to read four or five different threads to piece together an answer to your concern.

The moderators and most of the regular posters here prefer it that way. The evidence is in the number of closed threads and complaints about threads that are opened about problems or questions that have all ready been addressed in others threads.

 

Shows at least he did "some" effort in searching. Something many nOObs cant say they did.

Newer post wont do jack unless you limit your searching. It not about date, its about activity.

 

So I did the soldering just now and So far the results are good. Before today my sub was off.. plain and simple.. OFF.
AS of right now it is producing all its glorious bass.

Soo.. Since a picture is a thousand words.. I took some pictures for everyone.

I was going by the guide that Vaidz posted from 05-01-2009 10:44 PM


Reposted with Pics and some comments in Bold

1. Remove the black subwoofer assembly which is held in place by 3 hex screws. Drop the black housing down. No need to disconnect the wires.


2. In the black housing there is a metal box which houses the circuit board. Remove the 4 screws and take out the box.


3. Disconnect the red and green connectors by pulling down on them. Take note of which side they connect to for the reinstalling later.

They only plug into one spot. Sized accordingly.

4. Gently pry off the metal box top with a small flathead screwdriver. The circuit board will be exposed.



5. Gently pull up the circuit board. Mine came out without too much struggle.


6. When you look at the circuit board you should see that there is a grey box. There are solder joints that look almost identical to the ones that teddie18 has identified in his photos.

I circled this in Red



I resoldered 10 points in total. Basically all the ones that looked like they were attached to the underside of the grey box. If I was smart I would have taken the circuit board to someone a bit more skilled at soldering such small contact points, but things still worked out.

Underside Where I soldered (pre solder) - Circled in Red, but actual soldered spots are circled in yellow.




Close up through a magnifying glass (post solder):



7. Reverse the steps to reinstall all parts and you should be good to go.

You got it off.. just Reverse the Steps!


I will post another update after I have put on some Miles on the Max today.
I have had little soldering experience (modded every console I have had from psx up.. but that's it. nothing wicked hard.)


Thank you guys!

- Cal

 

Did about 200 miles worth of driving so far and it didn't cut out once!
THANK YOU!