WOOHHOOOO it gets old thumpin and then its gone.

 

BRO where were u earlier lol with the solution for this problem...i just bought a new sub off of a guy on the org for 50 bucks ogh well if it happens again n know whats up
thanx again for the pictures good job

 

Man this has been botherin me for past couple of years, been a member here and never thought to search till now will try this this weekend. thanx guys keepin my fingers crossed... I need to buy a soldering gun and solder does it matter what kind of solder you use?

 

OMG! i've been waiting for somebody to figure this out since i bought my car. I will definately be doing this, this weekend! thump, here i come!!

 

Use a 15 watt soldering iron and I use 60/40 rosin-core solder - 0.32" diam thick..

 

Thanks will go copp some of this solder for the job

 

Didn't work for me

 

nothing works for *everyone*...
But, I have done 4 more of these last week and They are all working just fine now.

 

Great solution, but didn't work for me

 

Some of us never had the "4 12" subwoofer cause we are compensating for something" issue as kids and more have simply out grown it.

Besides it'd cost a fortune to build something as well rounded as the stock bose system and wouldnt look as clean and you'd lose trunk space...which is kind of the point of a 4door sedan....

 

there a clap icon around here someplace?
nm.. found it

Well Put Christobal65

 

I am glad that I found this post... thanx

 

i have a 2001 gle and ive been having this problem with the bose sub for a while. I have a pioneer in-dash TV installed but everything else is stock bose. last week i was driving and the sub was making a loud popping sound for a little while and then i started to lose power. i managed to keep the car alive to my house. my battery was dead and my alternator was shot. i bought a new batt. and alter. and installed them. the car lasted 2 days before the same thing happened again!! dead batt. & alter. again. i recharged the battery but havent put a new alter. yet because i dont want to keep blowin em. i want to find & fix the problem before i replace it so my first thought was that amp was shorting out so i checked it out. i pulled everything apart and double checked all the connections but couldnt find anything. so i decided to just buy another amp & sub. when i started looking i came accross this site.. lots of very usefull info on here. im going to pull the sub apart and resolder the 10 points and hopefully it will fix that problem. was just wondering if anyone else had this problem and if you think this caused my alternator to blow?

 

I have a 2001 20th anniversary and I'm looking for more info about the Bose issue. When the issue occurrs, does the subwoofer stops completely, or just continue a little lower? It seems like when I'm listening to the radio, I'll have moments when the sub sounds extra deep and then go away. This is a small percentage of the time, so I wondering if I have the issue. I went in the trunk and even at the lower level, it seems like it's working fine. I'm just trying to get some clarification to see if I have the same problem. Thanks.

 

did it right now and it didnt work,but i guess it was me and my inexperience soldreing... ill try it during the weekend and see

 

Mines back.. I think the fridgid cold has something to do with it.
Went fine for 5 months.

 

hi

i am looking for pinouts car connector sub bose 100w 2db

 

car audio bose
hi

i am looking for pinouts car connector sub bose 100w 2db

 

I have a 2001 SE that had the same problem, i tried the fix posted here but it didnt work for me. The guys at carstereohelp.com charged me $105 for fixing it,turns out its the relay in the amp(silver box). Worth the money for me since i wanna keep my audio stock, plus it comes with a 1 year warranty. The $105 was including shipping from San Diego to Florida but most local audio repair shops should be able to fix it for you. I went with carstereohelp because they specialize in BOSE and have a good reputation. Hope this helps

 

I pulled mine out yesterday and reflowed the solder joints indicated. I couldn't see any flaws in the existing solder joints, but while I had it out I re did them anyway. So far so good. Went for a drive today to a friends house and it's working solid without cutting out. Thanks for the how to.
From looking at it, that little circuit board is the sub amp and low pass filter all in one. A cheap *** amp to say the least.
Now if only those crappy tweeters up front would perform it might sound O.K.
It sounds semi-O.K with CD, but FM not so good.
Since 2 channel audio is one of my passions, what would one expect but this critisism?

 

didnt work for me and I can solder pretty decently.. After I reinstalled it it wasnt working but would work in and out if i banged no the sub with a wrench So its something else loose in mine.. Didnt the engineers take into account all the vibration that the circuit would be subjected to.. and place the amp somewhere else farther than 1/2" from the sub! Oh well.. Guess Ill put a basslink in like I always wanted to!

 

Didn't work for me either.... Same symptoms as you. Tap the sub and it would work. Piece of crap! I ended up re-wiring my whole car and turfing that abysmal BLOWS sound system. Couldn't be happier now.

 

Help! Help! I have a 20th anniv the sub is working. I think... well the problem that I’m having is the sound fades out with horrible distortion. I have checked fuse box I have the radio out and played with the wire harness with no luck. Now one black cable wire that I traced back to the trunk to a black box. Not sure if I need to buy a new radio or it’s the black box with Bose label on it.

 

I just did this fix and it is working well. This will last me till it all comes out. The sub does pretty well, but I wonder what a 10 or 12 OB will be like

The mids and highs are pretty rough. Although the highs give a pretty good image, they are very shouty, especially in the female voice range. They are also limited in extension as cymbals and syllables are poorly reproduced. Also, the mid-bass is very muddy and poorly defined. For Pop or rock, its great, but anything that needs a bit of accuracy, I'm left wanting more.....

 

You don't have to explain, it's Bose.. It's the biggest junk ever like everything else they make.

I'm all JVC/Alpine/Rockford in my car and it sounds a million times better.

 

Judging by your description, you must be into audio also. I coudn't have described the system better. Can you even hear your tweeters? Mine seem to be working - sort of. I can hear them if I put my ear close, but they certainly don't add to the sound. They absolutly don't provide that lingering, floating cymbal effect that my home setup does.

 

What's a lot of work?

 

Actually for a factory system, the Bose is not horrible. Compared to most door only, no tweeter systems this is far better. The cone tweeters extend pretty low, so there is a bit of a believable image. Also the 8" sub while not hi fidelity by any sort does shake the rear view mirror. Now Bose home speakers are another story.

There is a build over at diymobileaudio forum in a Maxima that I am watching. And although I'm not going to spend the dough he is, I'd like to do something similar.

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...-pg-xenon.html

BTW, the fix worked fine for 3 days, but cut out again today, so I may need to try again.

 

My fix is still going strong. I'm really starting to feel that I have a problem with the tweeters though. I'll probably sort it out this summer.

 

what is the part number on the relay and the voltage because my relay does not have numbers on it

 

Mine has started to cut out again - piece of ****e! I guess I'll try reflowing the joints again, but anyone have a pic of that relay?

 

http://forums.maxima.org/7114129-post39.html

This one?

 

from what my local stealership told me, it can only be ordered with the sub.. $300

 

so what was the process for fixing a 2000?

 

I fixed mine ....here is the best solution...i went out and bought a relay..but bigger and better than that cheap Japanese relay that's originally in it....this one will not solder in the same holes but the other holes that are around it ...you can see the other holes in the picture from the previous post.... here is what it says on the relay...and the brand name and specs on this relay that i have.... GUARDIAN ELECTRIC CONT 3A (im assuming its amps) RES 120AC (resistance) 1575 series A410-366183-12 COIL 12v (volts DC =D ) R.O.C TAIWAN 383TA ......that is all what it says on this relay...and its blue in color.... i trust the Taiwanese than the Japanese any day ...but actually the original relay pins are loose and even if you solder them correctly ...the sub would still go out...it is just that its cheaply made...but this one is more sturdy and reliable ....i bought mine from Mendelsons in Dayton ohio....here is there website ..they don't have it on their website but im sure you can call them and describe what i told you over the phone and have them mail it to you... www.mendelsons.com ...and since this relay is bigger...u have to use a hammer on the top cover and bend it a little for the cover to close ...good luck

 

Does the replacement relay only fit one way? How do you know how to orientate it? I'd rather just replace a $3 relay than mess with a replacement amp, even used.
I pulled mine today, again, and this time sucked out all the old solder on the relay joints and then resoldered. I put it back in and it didn't even work this time!! Give it a whack, and away it went. Rediculous. Bose sucks the large horse phallus.

 

Ya, man, that's the one. Thanks. Mine doesn't have any numbers on it, and after too much time searching, I could find no replacement part.

 

That little gray orignal relay that bose put in the amp ...SUCKS..the pins always stay loose in the relay even if you soldered it correctly....you need to call that mendelsons warehouse and have them mail you that one relay that i described...it wont fit in the original holes so you have to fill those holes with solder...and resolder the new relay in the 5 other holes that are around that same relay...and after your done...you need to bend the aluminum cover a little bit so theres a buldge in it so it can fit together ...you have to do that because the new relay will sit higher than the old one...but it works perfectly...its been alomost 2 weeks for me and i always blast my music...i keep the volume on 22 and i use a wired cassette for my ipod so it gives me more bass

 

If you cant find the relay that i put in....email me at bvmp4@yahoo.com ....send me $15.00 to my paypal ..and i will go to dayton and i will buy the realy for this bose amp and i will mail it to you! ...i will post pictures up of my end result in replacing the relay soon

 

If you could post a pic., that would be great. I'm in Canada, so I'll have to see what shipping would be. I may take you up on your offer. Thanks.