Cattman 3" catback
08-13-2009, 12:54 AM
#401
can get them! But they normal have a book at NAPA for application which includes every single exhaust mount on our car! Getting that banging during hard right turn yet? Sound like a cv axle but it that exhaust swinging into that bpipe exhaust mount stub!
08-13-2009, 12:59 AM
#402
Yeah its hitting the underbody of the car right where the axle-back and bpipe meet. I'm going to try new mounts to see if that helps it or not.
08-13-2009, 01:02 AM
#403
bpipe-exh35460
rear muffler- exh35725
These mount are stiff and tough! You might need to add one more mount and hangar on that side to help support it better since the tolerance is even less now! Or wrap your pipe with exhaust wrap and you won't hear it hitting anymore!
rear muffler- exh35725
These mount are stiff and tough! You might need to add one more mount and hangar on that side to help support it better since the tolerance is even less now! Or wrap your pipe with exhaust wrap and you won't hear it hitting anymore!
Last edited by CMax03; 08-13-2009 at 02:34 PM.
08-13-2009, 01:06 AM
#404
I just hope the store has it. I'll see once I get them installed.
Last edited by The Law; 08-13-2009 at 01:09 AM.
08-13-2009, 10:55 AM
#407
Here are some thoughts about fitment that might be useful to some.
First, and most important, make sure the resonator section is right side up!!! It looks straight, but isn't quite, and if its wrong side up it will subtly throw off the alignment of the entire catback. Identifying the proper orientation is easy since we put a welding bead on the tube right behind the front flange (that bolts to the car). That bead should at 12 o'clock on the car side, not the ground side (6 o'clock).
Of course, there's less clearance with a 3" system, but keep in mind that if the resonator is in the proper position, a rattle can usually be solved by loosening the bolts at the flanges and slightly re-aligning the sections by using the play in the bolt holes.
A bit of exhaust expertise can come in handy when doing a realignment - customers often self-install and then take it in to their favorite exhaust expert to get it aligned just right.
Those NAPA mounts sound just great - the more solid the better!
Finally, I've tried the radiator clamp in the past and that approach can work real well. I put the clamp around the outside of the hanger, so it still has the rubber cushion but the clamp prevents excessive movement.
Brian
First, and most important, make sure the resonator section is right side up!!! It looks straight, but isn't quite, and if its wrong side up it will subtly throw off the alignment of the entire catback. Identifying the proper orientation is easy since we put a welding bead on the tube right behind the front flange (that bolts to the car). That bead should at 12 o'clock on the car side, not the ground side (6 o'clock).
Of course, there's less clearance with a 3" system, but keep in mind that if the resonator is in the proper position, a rattle can usually be solved by loosening the bolts at the flanges and slightly re-aligning the sections by using the play in the bolt holes.
A bit of exhaust expertise can come in handy when doing a realignment - customers often self-install and then take it in to their favorite exhaust expert to get it aligned just right.
Those NAPA mounts sound just great - the more solid the better!
Finally, I've tried the radiator clamp in the past and that approach can work real well. I put the clamp around the outside of the hanger, so it still has the rubber cushion but the clamp prevents excessive movement.
Brian
08-13-2009, 11:04 AM
#408
Here are some thoughts about fitment that might be useful to some.
First, and most important, make sure the resonator section is right side up!!! It looks straight, but isn't quite, and if its wrong side up it will subtly throw off the alignment of the entire catback. Identifying the proper orientation is easy since we put a welding bead on the tube right behind the front flange (that bolts to the car). That bead should at 12 o'clock on the car side, not the ground side (6 o'clock).
Of course, there's less clearance with a 3" system, but keep in mind that if the resonator is in the proper position, a rattle can usually be solved by loosening the bolts at the flanges and slightly re-aligning the sections by using the play in the bolt holes.
A bit of exhaust expertise can come in handy when doing a realignment - customers often self-install and then take it in to their favorite exhaust expert to get it aligned just right.
Those NAPA mounts sound just great - the more solid the better!
Finally, I've tried the radiator clamp in the past and that approach can work real well. I put the clamp around the outside of the hanger, so it still has the rubber cushion but the clamp prevents excessive movement.
Brian
First, and most important, make sure the resonator section is right side up!!! It looks straight, but isn't quite, and if its wrong side up it will subtly throw off the alignment of the entire catback. Identifying the proper orientation is easy since we put a welding bead on the tube right behind the front flange (that bolts to the car). That bead should at 12 o'clock on the car side, not the ground side (6 o'clock).
Of course, there's less clearance with a 3" system, but keep in mind that if the resonator is in the proper position, a rattle can usually be solved by loosening the bolts at the flanges and slightly re-aligning the sections by using the play in the bolt holes.
A bit of exhaust expertise can come in handy when doing a realignment - customers often self-install and then take it in to their favorite exhaust expert to get it aligned just right.
Those NAPA mounts sound just great - the more solid the better!
Finally, I've tried the radiator clamp in the past and that approach can work real well. I put the clamp around the outside of the hanger, so it still has the rubber cushion but the clamp prevents excessive movement.
Brian
08-13-2009, 04:02 PM
#410
What were the corrected numbers? The correction logarithms in the dyno software that account for the three "weather" variables - temp, humidity and atmospheric pressure - aren't perfect and they vary between dyno machine companies, but better than dead reckoning. Temp is the #1 factor of the three, but unfortunately a lot of dyno shops don't measure or look up the humidity. Did the same technician do the run each time and were you on the same tank, or at least brand/grade, of gas? These factors are actually quite important.
Brian
Brian
Let's see:
Same Tech
Fuel - Same Grade/Station - New tank
Numbers are not corrected - I guess I should go ask about that.
The humidity is listed for both runs but I'm not sure if the computer calculated it or if it's old data. This was my first dyno run so I don't really know much about the machine.
the weather varies so drastically out here it's nearly impossible to get close to the same conditions. I miss CA so much
08-13-2009, 04:09 PM
#411
Let's see:
Same Tech
Fuel - Same Grade/Station - New tank
Numbers are not corrected - I guess I should go ask about that.
The humidity is listed for both runs but I'm not sure if the computer calculated it or if it's old data. This was my first dyno run so I don't really know much about the machine.
the weather varies so drastically out here it's nearly impossible to get close to the same conditions. I miss CA so much
Same Tech
Fuel - Same Grade/Station - New tank
Numbers are not corrected - I guess I should go ask about that.
The humidity is listed for both runs but I'm not sure if the computer calculated it or if it's old data. This was my first dyno run so I don't really know much about the machine.
the weather varies so drastically out here it's nearly impossible to get close to the same conditions. I miss CA so much
08-13-2009, 08:28 PM
#412
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 2,898
and i'm glad somebody posted part numbers for that y-pipe exhaust hanger, cause i broke mine wheel hopping at the track!! lol
08-13-2009, 11:00 PM
#413
Sorry I got my mounts mixed up with the Nismo in the same bag and some fell out of thier boxes. But the NAPA mount are just as stiff as the Nismo brand if not stiffer, it should help control that big pipe of yours! Try twisting that ****...they're way stiffer than Oem!
08-29-2009, 05:20 PM
#414
Dyno says not until you get around 5500-6000. But everything seems to respond so flawlessly I guess it may have something to do with vaccum/more airflow in and out. That although my horsepower gains were "minimal" by the computer. the butt dyno and the distance between me and the other guy says differently. I plan on adding a turbo; but even without one I don't think I'd change my mind on the 3" for a basically stock system. Especially once I get the other add-on's (headers, test pipe and of course the tune). that is probably my biggest mistake right now. Not having a tune.
08-29-2009, 06:44 PM
#415
On the Track after Installing my 3" Catback
Hi Guys: I went to the track last week w/ my son, and both of us did not get a good ET, his ET was in the 2.3 60' on MT street tires, and I did 2.35 & 2.48, and what ever I do I break loose 1st & 2nd w/ Nittos DR 20psi, and the Tockico Illumina adjusted @ fronts 3 rears 5. Last Summer I did 13.36mph @ 106.87. Now after installing the 3" catback, I'm sure I have gained between 15 & 20 Whp, and to prove my point I will get it on the same dyno, and let you know, also I will get the slicks, and show you another Video with a better E.T.
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/S...and_702177.htm
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/S...and_702177.htm
08-29-2009, 11:39 PM
#416
08-29-2009, 11:45 PM
#417
08-29-2009, 11:56 PM
#418
08-30-2009, 09:54 AM
#419
Go to the store and search thru thier exhaust manual...there are lot of parts that you can find from other cars for special projects for the cheap! Those Nismo are heavy duty but not totally bullet proof for the money spent ...the Napa's are just as durable if not more! Go to the store and do the twist test Napa's hangars are super stiff and the hole is super tight so it won't slide around on the hangar once installed. My Cattman 2.5" exhaust I noticed would contact something in extreme hard high speed, high G, right hand turns...My Nismo rubber hangar was allowing the exhaust hangar to slide thru the rubber hangar and contact the chassis hangar mount with the bpipe. So I shimmed them with old rubber shock mount rubbers and i haven't heard a dam thing since. I love taking thing these highway clovers turns as fast as I can so far 60-65 mph no tire squeal yet!
10-15-2009, 06:49 PM
#421
What's the verdict on this? Is there anyone still signing up for this catback? I'm on the list and need an exhaust. Would like to see more people in so I can hurry up and get this in.
10-16-2009, 08:32 AM
#422
According to Brian, production should resume in November. I think he said he needed two more to sign up.
10-16-2009, 09:56 AM
#423
10-16-2009, 10:34 AM
#424
It'll take a few weeks for them to produce them after the goal has been reached, and also Brian doesn't charge your card until they are shipped out. Jump on the Chariot!
10-16-2009, 01:53 PM
#425
If we get too late in the year, the production will shift to January - don't want to pay tax on year-end inventory, so we want to have bare shelves on 31 December. That said, we'd be happy to do a small batch of 3" catbacks before then, but I'd need at least 8 orders to do that before the end of the year.
Brian
Brian
10-18-2009, 07:04 PM
#426
If we get too late in the year, the production will shift to January - don't want to pay tax on year-end inventory, so we want to have bare shelves on 31 December. That said, we'd be happy to do a small batch of 3" catbacks before then, but I'd need at least 8 orders to do that before the end of the year.
Brian
Brian
10-18-2009, 07:24 PM
#427
to the people with banging problems, seriously try the hose clamps method. You can put the clamps on every hangar and use the adjustability in the clamps to move the exhaust quite a bit. Even if you only hit in one place, messing around with all the hangars will make it pretty easy to avoid that. An added bonus is that you can make the muffler sit really still, even during wheel hopping, which obviously will help you keep from ruining exhaust gaskets while your exhaust is hopping around (and you wont look like a huge ricer having your exhaust flail around)
10-18-2009, 08:05 PM
#428
to the people with banging problems, seriously try the hose clamps method. You can put the clamps on every hangar and use the adjustability in the clamps to move the exhaust quite a bit. Even if you only hit in one place, messing around with all the hangars will make it pretty easy to avoid that. An added bonus is that you can make the muffler sit really still, even during wheel hopping, which obviously will help you keep from ruining exhaust gaskets while your exhaust is hopping around (and you wont look like a huge ricer having your exhaust flail around)
Chime in here hotshot about the HLSD
10-19-2009, 06:04 AM
#430
If we get too late in the year, the production will shift to January - don't want to pay tax on year-end inventory, so we want to have bare shelves on 31 December. That said, we'd be happy to do a small batch of 3" catbacks before then, but I'd need at least 8 orders to do that before the end of the year.
Brian
Brian
sorry others who are waiting.. but after the new year.. i will be in
10-20-2009, 01:14 AM
#431
In regards to the "fitment issues" some of you are experiencing:
Listening to Brian is your best bet. I didn't want to listen because I thought there was no room for play in the exhaust and that the half inch adjusting it would give me was not enough.
I got under my car, loosened every bolt from the cat back had pmohr holding the muffler and different sections solid while I moved / aligned different parts.
i.e he held the b-pipe while I moved the straight pipe to see what clearance that gave me.
Before that I tried a ton of things to get the rattling to go away, after spending an hour on my back aligning the 3" I didn't hear another rattle...
Listening to Brian is your best bet. I didn't want to listen because I thought there was no room for play in the exhaust and that the half inch adjusting it would give me was not enough.
I got under my car, loosened every bolt from the cat back had pmohr holding the muffler and different sections solid while I moved / aligned different parts.
i.e he held the b-pipe while I moved the straight pipe to see what clearance that gave me.
Before that I tried a ton of things to get the rattling to go away, after spending an hour on my back aligning the 3" I didn't hear another rattle...
10-20-2009, 01:17 AM
#432
to the people with banging problems, seriously try the hose clamps method. You can put the clamps on every hangar and use the adjustability in the clamps to move the exhaust quite a bit. Even if you only hit in one place, messing around with all the hangars will make it pretty easy to avoid that. An added bonus is that you can make the muffler sit really still, even during wheel hopping, which obviously will help you keep from ruining exhaust gaskets while your exhaust is hopping around (and you wont look like a huge ricer having your exhaust flail around)
just my 2 cents
11-04-2009, 09:09 PM
#433
Sorry to bring a dead thread back, but has anyone dynod yet? i see maxlife's dyno but its pretty much useless to have an uncorrected dyno that only states some peak numbers...I really want to see a real comparison here
11-04-2009, 09:21 PM
#434
This link was posted on the first page of this thread...
2.5 Inch Exhaust
4,500 RPM 191.88 HP 223.94 Torque
5,000 RPM 216.38 HP 227.29 Torque
5,500 RPM 231.13 HP 220.72 Torque
6,000 RPM 237.81 HP 208.17 Torque
6,500 RPM 221.92 HP 179.33 Torque
3.0 Inch Exhaust
4,500 RPM 209.32 HP 244.30 Torque
5,000 RPM 232.01 HP 243.71 Torque
5,500 RPM 244.90 HP 233.87 Torque
6,000 RPM 244.15 HP 213.72 Torque
6,500 RPM 239.31 HP 193.39 Torque
some numbers for you as well
and to quote my friend pmohr (don't take any of it personal as it was directed at someone else)
The '07 runs are 2.5", '08 runs are 3". Did you look at any of the runs?
Hell, did you read the thread? First page: http://forums.maxima.org/6241702-post29.html
Sure, it doesn't state specifically that it's 2.5" vs 3". However if we use our reading skills, we go down to this post: http://forums.maxima.org/6249548-post33.html
To which we find the answer directly following: http://forums.maxima.org/6249980-post34.html
What I'm saying is, if you actually read the thread, you won't have to ask questions that have already been well explained.
Hell, did you read the thread? First page: http://forums.maxima.org/6241702-post29.html
Sure, it doesn't state specifically that it's 2.5" vs 3". However if we use our reading skills, we go down to this post: http://forums.maxima.org/6249548-post33.html
To which we find the answer directly following: http://forums.maxima.org/6249980-post34.html
What I'm saying is, if you actually read the thread, you won't have to ask questions that have already been well explained.
Last edited by Merlyn; 11-04-2009 at 09:25 PM.
11-04-2009, 10:20 PM
#436
http://forums.maxima.org/dyno-discus...44-ft-lbs.html
This link was posted on the first page of this thread...
2.5 Inch Exhaust
4,500 RPM 191.88 HP 223.94 Torque
5,000 RPM 216.38 HP 227.29 Torque
5,500 RPM 231.13 HP 220.72 Torque
6,000 RPM 237.81 HP 208.17 Torque
6,500 RPM 221.92 HP 179.33 Torque
3.0 Inch Exhaust
4,500 RPM 209.32 HP 244.30 Torque
5,000 RPM 232.01 HP 243.71 Torque
5,500 RPM 244.90 HP 233.87 Torque
6,000 RPM 244.15 HP 213.72 Torque
6,500 RPM 239.31 HP 193.39 Torque
some numbers for you as well
and to quote my friend pmohr (don't take any of it personal as it was directed at someone else)
This link was posted on the first page of this thread...
2.5 Inch Exhaust
4,500 RPM 191.88 HP 223.94 Torque
5,000 RPM 216.38 HP 227.29 Torque
5,500 RPM 231.13 HP 220.72 Torque
6,000 RPM 237.81 HP 208.17 Torque
6,500 RPM 221.92 HP 179.33 Torque
3.0 Inch Exhaust
4,500 RPM 209.32 HP 244.30 Torque
5,000 RPM 232.01 HP 243.71 Torque
5,500 RPM 244.90 HP 233.87 Torque
6,000 RPM 244.15 HP 213.72 Torque
6,500 RPM 239.31 HP 193.39 Torque
some numbers for you as well
and to quote my friend pmohr (don't take any of it personal as it was directed at someone else)
01-20-2010, 06:17 AM
#438
I'm bumping this thread to create more interest and orders to get this going. If I could buy one without you guys it would have been bought already. Need more peeps in on this deal!
Brian- What's our numbers look like now? How many do we have, and how many do we need to get this rolling.
Anyone out there with one already wanting to sell theirs, shoot me a message. New batch looks indefinite until we get more headcounts.
Brian- What's our numbers look like now? How many do we have, and how many do we need to get this rolling.
Anyone out there with one already wanting to sell theirs, shoot me a message. New batch looks indefinite until we get more headcounts.
01-20-2010, 07:43 AM
#439
Not trying to bash on the product but it is too pricey for my budget. If I couldn't build my own, I would have jumped the gun on the group deal.
Bump for the thread to get more people in on it
Bump for the thread to get more people in on it
