Allright guys, im going to put this to you in hopes that you will be able to point me in the right direction. I have been researching this forever, but the dreaded p1320 code has been coming up on my car now for about 3 weeks. Researched everything i could find on the forum and everything seemed to point to the coils and/or the plugs.

So... i decided that the cheapest way to go.. at first was the plugs. Replaced them with Bosch Platinum just simply becasue they were on sale. They didnt work so i returned them and upgraded to NGK Irridium plugs. Still didnt fix the problem. I reseated all the connections for the injectors, and coils, reset the ecu and still came up with the same p1320 code.

Finally just replaced the coils with the upgraded gray dot coils and cleared the ecu and still with the same code. I tested all the new cois with the info bigfatty posted and all of them test within spec. Also, i tried a new MAF and still the same thing. I have no idea where to go from here. I know this has been covered before, thats why im trying to give as much info as i can because not many people have had the same thing.

I would really appreciate it if you could shed some light on the situation because i dont know what else to do. Thanks guys.

 

Isn't the knock sensor also part of that trouble code? Have you tried to replace that yet. If the ECU isn't pinpointing a misfire in a certian cylinder, I would be led to belive that it might be the knock sensor.
Also, there is a TSB for this. Have you looked at the TSB section and read all the information on it?

 

ya sorry i forgot to mention that it does not pinpoint any specific cylinder. I have checked with alladata and the tsb amd have gone through the condenser sensor, the crankshaft position sensor (both one and two) and everything seems to test within spec. Also, the car doesnt run rough at all. even under hard acceleration it doesnt miss a beat.

 

i'm having a similar problem with a P0300 code, whicih is a random cylinder misfire.. i replaced all the plugs, and tested the coils with and ohm meter, and those are all good.. the difference between mine and the OP is that i DO have a rough idle once the car warms up.. so could it be the knock sensor? vacuum leak?

 

thats crazy it must be coil season i just replaced all 6 of mine last week cause the car was running rough and even overloading on antifreeze it was so rough id have to stop every once in a while and release the radiator latch to let some antifreeze down to calm the rumbling (which worked pretty good) but i got tired of the random rumbling and just changed out all my coils...problem was solved. i had code p01320

 

Check your harness and connections to make sure none are broken or shorted! I have the Nissan Maxima DTC booklet on PDF format if you'd like, I can email it to you. It is about 740 pages on the Engine Control System. It has all the DTC's and the steps to find the problem and how to repair them. P1320 states to check the harness and connectors to ECM and then goes into steps for diagnosing and so forth!

 

bump

 

i'm having the same problem with the p1320 code. changed the coils, still have the code. I was planning on changing the MAF like you did. let us know if you figure it out.

 

plenum gasket. Did you re-use it or replace it? That thin layer of rubber starts to flake and cause tiny leaks. Running lean will give the misfire code.

 

Don't rule out injectors on you guys that are having the rough idle. I had the p0300 code and it ended up being 2 partially hung injectors... Just throwing that out there

 

^that's a good point too

 

bump

 

i tested all my injectors, and they all tested between 13.5 and 17.5 ohms

 

alright guys, new update... when the car is warmed up, you can rev the car up to 1600-1700 rpm's and the car will hicup like theres a 2-step for a turbo installed. but if you rev it harder than that there is no hic-up. Not sure what that means, but it seems like one of my new coils is failing under a load. Any help would be appreciated.
P.S. still not throwing any codes for a specific cylinder.
Thanks

 

bump... cant figure out what it is... nothing seems to test wrong. any help is always appreciated. Come on guys, give me some fresh ideas haha

 

I had a similar problem , yet i would sometimes have a rough idle and shake at low rpm's... it started off like what you have and then eventually it started happening more often . I did plugs and filters and tranny flush before finally breaking down and checking the injection coils. #4 was bad. BUT it took some work to figure that out because like you I wasnt getting a misfire code even though it was obvious one wasnt firing correctly. We ended up taking out the plugs and coils one by one till we found #4 was soaked ... changed out the coil and she's been smooooooooth ever since. HOPE THIS HELPS!!

 

bump

 

Well i will have to do some testing cause I started getting the P1320 the other day but it goes away and doesn't do it all the time.

 

bumpity

 

sunday bump... any idea why this wanna be 2 step is catching at 1800 rpm's?? Thanks guys

 

BUMP, i am having the exact same problem, i am going to try to clean my MAF, and post the update

 

well i never had any hiccups in my car.. just a rough idle and poor acceleration.. and a knock sensor fixed the problem for me

EDIT: knock sensor made the performance better up top, but it's still lacking power and the misfire code is still there.. occasional rough idle is still there as well

 

let me know how the MAF cleaning goes!! If its that easy i would be more than happy to do it haha

 

allright... so i cleaned the maf and used seafoam in the vacuum system and fuel tank to try and clean everything out. Same old thing..... but today, i was driving up 460 and the max started sounding like a wrx. The check engine light actually started flashing at me. When i pulled over and checked with an obd II scanner, it was pinpointing an actual cylinder. FINALLY figured out what the issue was. The coil in the 5th cylinder (the supposedlly NEW one) was bad. Took the coil to a nissan dealer and they replaced it for free. Finally no CEL. Thought i would let yall know. Thanks for the help and advice.

 

????? did you actually test that "new" coil with a multimeter??

did the car's performance feel any better afterwards?

 

of course... the new coil they gave me the first time tested fine. Just the same as all the other ones. All i can come up with is that the coil was failing under a load. This is something i cannot simulate. and not with the new new coil haha tests just the same. but there is no stalling no hiccuping and everythign seems to run fine.

 

Makes you want to find a nissan engie and beat them over the head with the coil, eh? haha

 

It's more than likely your connector or harness that has the problem not the coil pack! You can check it with a timing light under a semi-load and I'll guarantee you it's that same location everytime with the underload miss, so swap around the coil packs and I'm sure the problem doesn't follow the coil pack but stays in the same cylinder location.

 

does the coil pack evvr clear the code? im thinking about skipping that step
think im running both codes now

 

yes it does... not only did they make the gray dot series to replace the shi**y standard coils, but now theyre coming out with the new pink dot coils to replace the failing gray dot..... just another way for the stealership to get more money..

if that was the case, then the new one they gave me would be throwing up the same code. but it doesnt.

if you get the new coils it will clear the code. if you dont you are going to have to use a obdII scanner to clear it but even then its going to come back if you still have the issue.

 

Hi my name is Mike, please if you don't mind e-mailing me the manual of Max for Codes and to trace the Harness etc. I really apreciate your help. My e-mail is jojvon06@yahoo.com.Thanks

 

My name is Mike. I would like to ask you to e-mail the manual of Max of how to check harness and Codes. My e-mail is jojvon06@yahoo.com. Thanks and apreciate your help.