ColtMax

1 - Bought my inserts from here: www.energysuspensionparts.com
2 - Here is how I installed them:

orchard

Thank you very much--can you just do me a favor and confirm that this is the proper link to the parts that I need:

http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...sp?prod=7.1114

I am assuming that the $83 buys you a single mount, right?

ColtMax

Yup this is the right part as long as you get yourself MT motor mount to start with.
83$ covers both "Roll" mounts. Front and rear.

orchard

Thanks man!

So when you say the "MT motor mount" to start with, do you mean the brackets that the inserts fit into?

Also, do you have any good wisdom from the insert installation process? Did you grease them up at all, or did they press in nicely on their own?

Again--much appreciated.

ColtMax

MT motor mounts = Motor mounts from a Manual Transmission Maxima.
You will not be able to only buy the metal portion of them, they come as an assembly, therfore youll need to remove the rubber and sleeve from them.

The installation of the inserts is pretty straight forward. Press them in and use a flat screw driver to complete the process. Part of the lip did not want to comme out on mine, I used the screw driver to pull it out.

dcondiff

Well, had to replace e-brake that froze and snapped, also had to replace front motor mount. We cannot disconnect here in PA because of inspection laws, ridiculous. . . after market has no sensor yada yada. She has 120K miles on her and need to keep her around for a while - just frustrating.

buddywh1

I've had my motor mounts disconnected since I moved to PA in 2003...my mechanic even asked me about the dangling connectors when he did O2 sensors and didn't say anything to me.

When I disconnected them I had my son hold the engine at 1800-2400 RPM idle for a few seconds then disconnected the connectors while idling at that speed. That moved them to 'firm' position and they stayed firm after disconnecting. If you prefer soft mode then don't bother with it.

Smooth_Operater

Hello guys, after reading all of the posts on the four pages i just wanted to get everyones opinion. I have a 01 I30 and have the P0505 code on the car as I am typing. Here is a little backstory. Last month, I got the Intake manifold gasket replaced because it was leaking oil. After the mechanic fixed it I noticed the car downshifted hard and idled high (around 1200 in Park). After about a week, the P0505 code popped up. The car starts up and runs fine (just high idle and rough downshift). How did some of you guys fix this problem? I was wondering if I should just do Idle relearn or get a new IACV? How will I know if the ECU is burnt because thats what I saw in some posts? I have no idea how to find the ECU.

Thanks in advance

gjaa

Ok, I know for a fact my at least one of my electric mounts is gone, do I have to replace them with new electrical ones or could I replace them with none electrical ones?

vybz05

what year is your max, and is it stick or auto?

gjaa

its an auto 01, i need to replace them but my cash flow is a little low this days and i wanted to know if she would actually be fine if i go with something like that pair of mounts from ebay that go for like $142

vybz05

if its an auto 01, that means that both your front and rear mounts are electronically controlled. You can go with the manual set for the torque mounts, the two on the sides im not sure about. I believe they are different between autos and manuals.

rvanders37

i had electric motor mounts the front one leaked. had the noise everyone talks about at startup and shutdown. so i disconnected them first to eliminate the noise. then later replaced them to eliminate the clunking noise that came from the bad front motor mount. i did not go back with electronic motor mounts . what were they thinking when they came up with that anyway? no difference in performance. and thank god nothing had to be done electrically when i disconnected them. in fact if i had those electronic ones on my car knowing what i know now i'd disconnect them right away.

RICHIEBXNY

i just pulled my front bad mount and noticed that sensor on it is made by bridgestone (why)???, i really dont know if i should replace with correct mounts . or just put mounts w/o sensor.. amazon has electronic ones kit with all 4 front and rear electronic and 2 sides for 175$, or set of 4 w/o electronic front and rears for 100$... hmm what to do

RICHIEBXNY

Some time described as whistle sound some time whee whee whee or buzz sound. That is a malfunctioning electronic motor mount and there is a service bulletin # NTB 01-010. Unfortunately those motor mounts are not cheap almost $200 each (I think). And the normal mount that wears out is the right hand top by the fan belts and is not one of the electronic motor mounts. You can look for the two small brown two wire plugs and (I recommend) disconnect the electronic motor mounts. One brown plug on the front of the valve cover. and other under the top radiator hose above the transmission. I have seen motor mounts short the circuit in the engine control and cause the ECCS (2) fuse left side under the hood to keep blowing. ECM is really expensive over $900 for a Nissan Re-manufactured ECM. Your constantly running motor mounts will drain the battery. Actually the mounts are designed to soften at idle and firm up while driving. When those mounts function most owners can not feel them work. Nissan Technician can turn those mounts on and off at idle with there hand on the open door we can feel a slightly higher vibrations when the motor mounts are set to drive mode. Unplug and save up for at least three new motor mounts and a top trans mount. Good Luck.
Source(s):

Nissan Master Tech

memphisballer

iTrader: (7)

save that extra $75 bucks and buy yourself something nice.I just replaced my mounts with non-electric mounts,cut and taped the connectors and done with it.The cover over the motor on the rear mount was burned off somehow and the little motor was burned as well.I consider myself lucky.The mounts also transformed the car into a better riding car.I almost started throwing money at the front suspension.

ibmarcusb

Hey, i have a 2000 I30 with 247000 on the clock. i was having the same stalling at stop light issue and took mine off to clean throttle body and IACV. Lots of black crud in there..Like im running the car on straight crude oil!! also i disconnected the motor mounts (big thanx to u buddy for the diagram). so far so good for me tho, no more stalling. will check ecm later. Cant handle any more infiniti-trauma syndrome LMAO. I love my car and got a GREAT deal on it but man she is high maintenance and got champagne taste!. If she was a human, i would unfriend her on facebook and change my phone #.

RICHIEBXNY

i got them. i mounted them over the weekend . i dont feel that 175 for all 4 was bad at all. and after taking them out i noticed all my mounts was no good , so after all that it was something that needed to be done.

EuroDriver

iTrader: (21)

From reading the part description on Energy Suspension's website, it appears that you can install the inserts on the auto tranny mounts, meaning it may not be necessary to obtain MT mounts to use the non-electronic inserts.

I copied this directly from their site (http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...sp?prod=7.1114):

2002-2003 Fits the 3.5 Models Manual transmission Only
1995-2001 Fits the 3.0 Models Manual transmission Only
Automatic Transmission Models use an Electric Mount. These will replace those but these are not electric.

Can anyone confirm if they have installed them on the AT mounts without issues?

cjandura

iTrader: (3)

They do not fit the auto mount is of a larger diameter.

roclucky1

my coils went out now i read all this. the max as to go.

RICHIEBXNY

EVEN WITH A ACCORD YOU HAVE TO WATCH OUT THE TRANYS SUCK, AND CAMRYS MOTORS SUCK , WITH ANY CAR YOU GET WILL HAVE PROS AND CONS , I WORK FOR A SALVAGE YARD AND HAVE NEVER HAD A CUSTOMER CALL ME FOR A MAXIMA 3.0, 3.5S YEA BUT THE POINT IS THAT ALL DIFFERENT CARS HAVE A DIFFERENT FLAW.....

EuroDriver

iTrader: (21)

Also keep in mind - the nicer the car, the more expensive the parts in all likelihood. As the 5th gen is aging, parts prices don't seem all that bad (except for things like the $800 cat I just replaced )

orchard

I turned away from my motor mount issue for quite some time, but I am now considering pursuing the repair. After some searching, I found cheap standard motor mounts with brackets [front and rear]--at least according to the customer service rep (who said that the items are sent as pictured).

I figure if the mounts themselves are awful, I will have at least acquired some brackets on the cheap (without having to track down something at the junkyard), and can somewhere down the road swap out for the ES inserts.

Thoughts anyone? I'll post again to confirm whether the mounts come shipped in the brackets. In the meantime, comments are welcome

pcumming

I have had mine unplugged now for about 2.5 years without an issue.
Peter

orchard

I have had mine unplugged for a little over two years as well--I haven't had any issues, but there is some give when I shift and more generally in my handling which I attribute partially to the bad mounts (maybe I'm wrong). In any case, I figures its something that should be addressed at some point.

What would happen in a worst-case scenario if I were never to replace the mounts?

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

Just find a M/T 95-03 Maxima and take the front and rear motor mounts...Junk yard all day...No need to buy good ones you're gonna remove the old rubber insert and install the ES poly!

Gunther117

How do you disconnect the mounts?

Gunther117

how do you disconnect them?

Rods03Max619

iTrader: (5)

Or if no time for the junkyard can get ebay ones for like 30 bucks.....

elica

I have had to replace my IACV and ECM TWICE ...I wasnt aware of both needed to be replaced at the same time ...just did for the 2nd time omg what a pain...its still idling funny...any suggestions

Maximakehd

I just recently had the codes p0505, p1440, and p0455 I suspected the iac valve being clogged with carbon or coolant restriction on the hoses that go to the iac beneath the throttle body so I went out and bought throttle body gasket so I could remove my throttle body and clean it. unfortunately my bottom iac screw broke thus the reason I got the gasket to remove the assembly I did not find what I expected there were no blogged passages so I cleaned as much as possible anyways. I also cleaned my valve covers and upper plenum at the same time after I finished I did the idle relearn procedure my idle has now gone from 900 rpms to 700-750 rpms the p0505 is now gone but, my drivability issue with hesitation/stumble on low-moderate acceleration and shaking(feels like a misfire) while stopped in gear p1440 and p0455 are still present. My new goal is to now fix my evap codes to ensure their not causing this issue and I can focus on testing every component that could be suspect some things that cross my mind for this issue with no codes is catylytic converter,Slow MAF response,blocked egr tube, or injectors? I'm lost lol

5thgendriver

i'm thinking about sourcing them from the junk yards but most of them don't allow jacks and I believe one will be needed to remove the mounts. found a couple on ebay for ~$50 shipped.

jh15

iTrader: (1)

Hello,

I don't own my 2001 Maxima anymore but got this thread forwarded to my email. Still have a 08 Nissan, so hang around here sometimes.

Update: I had a closely related problem: shorted IACV burned out ECU, motor mounts fine. Still makes for a bad part to new part burnout.

There is a possibility for your worst nightmare to occur on this system.

If not being an electronics engineer, I would shudder to think of what would have happened if taken to a garage or even a dealership at my time. They were not aware of the problem either at the time.

1. The engine mounts are electrically powered. They fail, (I believe from corrosion over the years).

2. This burns out (with flames) a vertically mounted power I.C. chip in the ECU.

3. The chip is physically mounted next to a similar IACV power chip. It gets burned from the motor mount chip, along with circuit traces in the area.

4. The damaged IACV chip burns out the stepper motor in the IACV that controls the air flow valve.

5. Replacing the ECU will cause the new ECU to be burned out from the now shorted IACV stepper motor windings.

6. If the motor mounts are still connected, they will burn out the new ECU.

7. Replacing just the IACV will cause it to be burned out by the now damaged ECU.

8. Try to return an electrical part..... Maybe if lucky they will give you a replacement. Then you go back a second time....

With this code, you would really have to make a detailed diagnosis to prevent a wallet's nightmare loop.

9. I measured a shorted winding on the IACV, you can check yours through the connector, if ok, then maybe just the ECU would need replacement.

---
What I would do to diagnose a friend's car if this happened:

A. Disconnect the motor mounts first even as good, as prevention. As I did. Tape up the connectors.

B. Measure the IACV motor windings, 2 of them, I think resistance is in the service info. For example, one of my windings was in spec, 10 or 30 ohms vs 1 ohm, the other shorted.

If bad, then you definitely need to replace it after further inspection.

C. Remove the ECU, a real nad breaker... Think of it resting on the floor hump all the way in the console against the firewall, and under other things like the ABS box and such. And having to tear apart the console.

I tore mine all apart, removing the HVAC, stereo and side panels. After finally locating it, maybe just the side panels?

Screwed in with hex bolts on both vertical sides, but also containing philips heads. I used a right angle phillips and small box wrenches I believe. Use magnets or something to make sure bolts aren't dropped into the black holes never to be seen again, just rattle.

D. In a static free environment, or at least with a wrist strap and not wearing fuzzy winter clothes which is when this will happen as luck goes.

Open the cover and look inside. Look at the the I.C. chips standing up for signs of damage. Usually will be obvious with burn marks all around.

Sometimes a chip will "crater" (blow out a plastic section of itself) and not harm its neighbor.

If burned, then you will need a a new ECU, and an IACV, and a tow to the dealer to get the anti-theft system recoded. (Maybe that is no longer needed?).

If not burned, I don’t know if a failed IACV chip that looks good could burn out the new IACV. You could possibly measure the chip for shorts. Being a dual chip, one winding driver could be compared to the other, or even if good, the motor mount chip. They are industry standard part number, used in things such as VCR loading drivers, if I recall the application notes.

The above assumes the motor mounts started the problem.

My motor mounts were good, but I disconnected them for prevention.

My IACV had leaked coolant internally, corroding and causing the stepper motor winding to short.

Some have modded the old or new ones to eliminate the preheat hose and coolant, I didn’t.

The short burned out my IACV chip, and I believe the motor mount chip was fine.

I replaced the chip with one from Ebay, but I was lucky my circuit traces were repairable.

I also placed some micro fuses in the power leads to the chips.

This lasted some years till i sold the car, running fine. (Got an Element for space, Maxima was fine).

I typed this from memory, but thought it better than trying to sift through my posts of years ago, I might have posted pictures, so be free to look back at my horror show.

JH

mppp

Thanks for the info and I just ran through the steps you had outlined in diagram above as I had someone assist with keeping rpms above 1000 while I disconnected 2 connectors. I no longer hear the whining when just turning on engine nor after shutting car off, but I do have a stupid question. Why doesn't the CELight go on for failing mounts and why would they go on now since the 2 connectors are disconnected?

Thanks guys

5thgendriver

hmm...mine have been unplugged for almost 18 months now and no cel light...2001 SE

mppp

Thanks for responding. I had to unplug my air intake sensor and remove housing to get a better angle on unplugging mount sensor near oil dipstick so was hoping that's what triggered it instead and that seemed to be it. Ran code and got P0110 Air Intake Temperature Sensor, reset it CEL and all seems to be good now...no CEL.