Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

It was 86 today and the car felt like **** Summer is worthless. Boost is the only option for this heat.

capframe

iTrader: (1)

I have noticed that for the past month, my engine has been idling 200RPM higher than ever before.
To say it simpler, my engine is currently idling @ 600RPM and used to idle @ 400RPM. This seems very weird and I could tell that my transmission is pissed off a little bit when I shift from park or neutral.

Can anyone tell me what in the world is going on? What is my car trying to tell me with this weird idle increase?

History: Some shop ruined my original throttle body with bad cleaning and STEALERSHIP replaced it with a remanufactured one which worked fine for a long time before this MAIN issue even started happening.

Could this be a sign that remanufactured parts suck and that my remanufactured throttle body is slowly dying and could this be what's causing my MAIN problem? Is this the CURE?

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

So you had a 400 RPM idle and you didn't see it as an issue that needed correction?

600 RPM is still a bit low for an idle, but it's closer to what it should be.

capframe

iTrader: (1)

No, I do not see 400RPM as an issue that needs to be corrected as my Maxima has been idling @ 400RPM since it was brand new.

Since you think 600RPM is a little too low I would imagine that you think 700/RPM is just perfect which is HORRIBLE. In fact that's why I had to replace my throttle body in the first place because engine was idling @ 600-700RPM and a SES code came on " idle too high " and fixed after replacing throttle body.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

No, you know what I think is perfect?



If it was idling at 400 RPM when you got it new, then that was an issue that should've been fixed, or your tach is way off.

And there is no 'idle too high' DTC
Ah, I see...P0507.

capframe

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the info, must be my imagination fueled by the fact that car runs like absolute crap

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

Mine idles at exactly 700 (well i'll check the vafc to make sure). I thought 700 is what it's supposed to be. Any lower (with mods anyway) and it's not silky smooth.

capframe

iTrader: (1)

Maybe I'm not counting the lines correctly but I have done something I should of done a long time ago, and that is to TAKE A PICTURE:

http://www.pascalonline.net/nissan/2003_Maxima_Idle.jpg

(Picture is @ PARK/NEUTRAL, once I put it in DRIVE RPM goes one NOTCH down.

So, what RPM is that? ..and is it good? Bad? whateverish? or is my engine about to explode? implode?

Thanks for your help(s).

Derrick2k2SE

iTrader: (3)

That would be 800 RPM.

Stormzusmc

iTrader: (17)

Yeah I'd say thats about fine...I'm right about there as well

Stormzusmc

iTrader: (17)

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ml#post7001606
This thread shows my dyno today and the results are very depressing. I didnt get to run cold however. It looks like I'm not getting the fuel I should hence running WAY to lean...when its cold, the engine spits more fuel out apparently...

ZGadson

Could this mean there's a fuel filter issue?

(My I35 has been doing exactly the same thing, and the only code is the Rear o2 sensor, which I've replaced and still have no changes. Engine light is still on after reset from Autozone.)

Stormzusmc

iTrader: (17)

I fixed mine...but it was because of vacuum for me

capframe

iTrader: (1)

GAME OVER

No, and now that it seems it is running crappy even when cold I have given up.
The thread should be re-titled from ~Maxima runs crappy when warm to ~Maxima runs crappy when warm and cold which no longer makes this thread unique.

I have good reason to give up too, all signs point to internal engine problems possibly requiring a rebuild or new engine, I'm sorry to say that it is over for this 2003 Maxima after only 127K miles.
I am now driving this car because it runs and probably will run fine for many years as long as I don't push it too hard.
But, unfortunately most of the 255 horses are dead, fun is over, this is now a boring Point A to Point B car.

My next car will be a Corvette and so I can't wait until this now piece of crap Maxima is fully paid off and I save some money so I can tear up the roads again.

ZGadson

How did you figure that out? Maybe I could be so lucky.

Stormzusmc

iTrader: (17)

check for vacuum leaks

hot_wax_tree

well in the first place how is getting warm air going to effect the engine to that dagree?

in my opinion you have a electrical problem maybe once the engine heats up an electrical component stops working right or good.

Jake

allblackmax96

iTrader: (4)

did you ever do a compression check? reason being that if your an oil burner(which most 5.5 gens with stock exhaust manifold are) you may have trashed your cylinder walls with cat material(on exhaust reversion). i would do a cold compression check and a hot one. loss of compression would explain the power loss.......

bpe383

WOW this is just crazy. I am another who has power loss in my 02. It is temp related. I was playing around today not related to the problem, and found my vias was tight, and not all that easy to move. I moved the car from one place to another in the parking lot at my work. Notting that the vias was harder to move. Makes since has the metal expands. I think? Not 100% sure how the system works, but I assume it's a valve system that allows more air in at higher rpms?

Anyway, I have been reading about this vias block off, and wanted to see if it would really work. So I rigged the vias open at all times. In playing with different ways to do this I found it lossened up a great deal. Then I thought maybe the intake was carboned up, and was to tight for the vac. to pull it open all the way. either way it did seem to run better on the way home, however, a good test could not be done as it was raining very hard.

regarding oil burning my car does use about 1.5 qt every 3000 miles, but it's not so much blow by as I found out. There was a thread on here years ago about the amount of oil sucked in to the intake. a air/water sep. used for air compressors was put inbetween the the pcv valve, and intake. it was amazing at how much oil this little device would collect. I can't remember how much for X number of miles but it was a lot. Much more than I would have thought, and the device had to be emptied after just a few days. THis seem to be normal among those who tried it as well. This was when my car had 60,000K on it.

reagle80

I don't know if this is still continuing, seems not, but I need to add I have the same problem with the knocking noise between 1800-2500 RPM
I got the code P0011 once, reset it, and never came up again
After reading the thread, it seems like the root is the knocking. Adding to oil burn issue, lack of oil could cause this knock
I would like to know if anyone has got this fixed before and if so, how

Mellotron

VIAS.....Interesting.....How many willing to bet this might have been CAPFRAME's problem all along....

ZGadson

What is VIAS? (Googled it - can't find it.)

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

Nissans Variable Induction Air System IIRC, basically a VI or variable intake, using either different length runners or pressure waves via a valve or valves inside the intake manifold to obtain a better power band.

Mellotron

My wild guess is his VIAS valves were stuck shut. Which would easily explain his lack of "Jet Fighter" sound he used to get with his Injen Intake, and his lack of power due to air starvation.

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

It opens at 5200, so I think it's clearly not the issue.

Mellotron

Crud you're right. I forgot those dang things open at such a high RPM. I remember that now on my 2004 Sentra SE-R. Thanks for settin' me straight on that one.

ZGadson

Does anyone know exactly what type of resistor I need to buy (for a 5th gen, 2002, Infiniti I35/Maxima) to try this knock sensor bypass trick? There's several different answers ranging between 470k and 650k. That's quite a big difference, and I don't want to make my problem worse by doing something stupid.

Also, once the resistor is in place, will the car automatically readjust the timing? Or will it take a while for the car to learn that its got a "new" knock sensor?

Thanks.

ridinwitha35

iTrader: (1)

According to the FSM (EC-320, knock sensor diagnosis), the knock sensor should measure between 500K and 620K Ohm (at room temperature). I guess as long as it's in that range it should be fine (as far as being 'in-spec' for the ECM at a no-knock condition).

470k is just a common-valued resistor & is probably why you see it a lot. You're more likely to find a a 470k resistor than say a 550K. Then if you account for 5 or 10% tolerance levels, a "470k" resistor could measure as much as about 500k Ohm.

So in short, look for something in that range...otherwise go with a 470K Ohm.

The knock sensor is a real-time input & only a diagnostic one. If all of a sudden knock is detected, the ECM will adjust. If you disable the sensor (resistor bypass), the ECM will never adjust due to knock...because it doesn't know that knock has occurred.

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

470k as I said before. I assume it goes back to near normal and then increases from there. I just reset the ECU. If it's the problem you will absolutely notice the difference in power immediately.

ZGadson

Well, here's to hoping the .Org has fixed yet another car problem. I just got home from RadioShack with a 470k/5% tollerance resistor. If it fixes my problem I will vomit with happiness.

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

any news?

Lime monster

iTrader: (3)

DAMN IT!! Come back with the answer!! :P

getflushed

This make me soooooooo mad!!!!!!!!! Why. Don't peoplke ever post a solution. Letting us know if it worked!!!!! Everyone on this site helps out a person, and they don't return the favor by letting us know if it worked!!!!!!QUOTE=Lime monster;7897909]DAMN IT!! Come back with the answer!! :P[/QUOTE]

Lime monster

iTrader: (3)

I read the whole thread too... got me all worked up and excited thinking it would solve my problem...but no.

Stormzusmc

iTrader: (17)

do a compression test

OrangeSentra

i just got a 02 max and it has the same exact problem and its driving me crazy... any updates???

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Jesus, resurrection.

OrangeSentra

I fixed my car, had the same exact problems.... i bit the bullet and put a ecu in it from the junkyard, had it reprogrammed for the key and such at the dealer, runs perfect again...

Finchum

Thanks to this old thread and the search tool...470k resistor in the knock sensor plug fixed my issues!

Glean Heath

Hey I replaced my fuel filter because I have the same problem. It really was not hard at all. the fuel pump assembly was a little hard to separate but all in all it was easy and Im a rooke so to speak. I suggest doing it