So, i got impatient and decided to go ahead and just wing it and see what happens rather than wait for precise instructions.


Heres the 5/16th hole i drilled. Its not an exact science - basically unlatch the shift cable from the arm, and youll notice that the cable can extend and retract. This is NOT what you want. You want to unlatch the cable, and pivot it toward the side without adjusting its length in/out at all. Itll move in a slight arc. Theres a tiny ledge/ridge on the arm (you can see the hole barely going through it) - i ended up using a punch to mark just at the bottom edge of that ridge. I used a 1/8th drillbit for a pilot hole, moved to i think to 7/32s, and then finally finished with 5/16th. As stated several times in this thread, TAKE YOUR TIME DRILLING. Nice and easy, use some sort of lube (wd40 worked for me) periodically on the drillbit. I would drill for a little, pull the bit out to clean debris, touch the bit to make sure its not overheating, and then continue. Total time drilling was ~15 mins tops. It is a tight space but you can shift the arm forward toward the bumper to have a better angle. Just make sure that when you are picking your spot to drill, that the car is in neutral and you dont adjust the in/out play of the cable at all, or else your shift stick will be cocked forward or backwards from center.




Here is the 5/16x2 clevis pin installed. It needs to be installed from the bottom, you dont need to go under the car but you need either small hands or long fingers to get it in. Youll need to fidget with the shift assembly and move it through the gears to get it in but once its in, its in.




Heres the end result. Once the clevis pin is through, you can attach the shift cable. While the pin is fairly snug in the hole, youll want to hold the bottom of it while you do this, or else it will simply fall out onto your floor. I was able to squeeze the cable end down just enough to get a cotter pin through the 2nd hole. In reality any hole will be fine, as long as the clevis pin is secured to the shift arm and the shift cable secured to the clevis pin - both by a cotter pin. Total time was about an hour, tops, and that was with me getting sidetracked with other stuff.


End result? AWESOME.
Easily one of the best “quality of life” mods you can do for these cars if you have a 6speed. As others stated it will reduce your shift lengths by roughly half. Such a HUGE improvement while driving, the stock shift length feels absolutely insanely long once you experience the short throw. One of the great things about this is that you can easily revert to stock if you wanted to - but you never will want to. The shifts are nice and tight and short, i was worried it would feel overly aggressive somehow but it just feels simply perfect, even for a daily driver. You will notice that theres a little more “oomph” when going into each gear, i guess it would be considered notchiness, but not in a bad sense. I sort of prefer it like this, because its feedback that confirms the gear is engaged. Takes a short bit to get used to because it kinda feels like youre not going fully into gear when you shift, but thats just the shortened throw in action.

Overall, 10/10 mod in my opinion, no exaggeration. Considering all it costs is the $2 for the clevis pin and a trip to home depot, plus how easy it is to do, this is a no brainer must-do.

i was keeping a mental note of the stock shift feel all this week. I was thinking its not bad at all - that is, until i experienced the short throw. With the stock setup, i was pretty much moving my whole arm from the shoulder to shift. Now, its basically just a flick of the wrist. SO much faster shifts, you can blast through the gears at lightening speed without any effort where as before it felt like you needed a relatively deliberate quickness with your movements when shifting. Now, you just casually shift and its just straight up money every time. There is literally zero chance of me ever going back to stock shift setup lol.