Weeble1

iTrader: (8)

OK... so I replaced my pass side axle with an E-Bay axle for a temp. replacement until Raxles gets the design done.
Everything switched out perfectly. The Ebay exle was the same size, everything went well... until I drove the car. There is now a bad vibration coming from the pass side when I accelerate. I got to thinking and I messed up when putting the axle nut back on. I put it back on with an impact. It pounded on the nut for a few seconds. I think the vibration is coming from a busted wheel bearing. It doesn't vibrate a bad when I turn right under acceleration, just to throw that in there too. Input?
Thanks in advance,
Josh

2kMAXIMAGXE

I need to get a new Axle as well,
do you how much do they generally cost,
and is it hard to put them in???


Thanks

Weeble1

iTrader: (8)

... wtf? Search man. Don't hijack my thread.

2kMAXIMAGXE

calm your horses down,
it was just a general question about axles,

Weeble1

iTrader: (8)

Yes, but when noobs like you come in here and don't read the rules and don't search it gets very annoying. Use the search function. You will find plenty of info without pissing anybody off.

Drockb418

iTrader: (10)

if it is a refab one the axle can be bent and making it shake

Weeble1

iTrader: (8)

It says new but that's another concern. They are shipping me a new one with a return label. Hopefully it will work

maximase86

iTrader: (24)

I don't think it's a wheel bearing. The fact the vibration changes when you change the geometry of the axle seems more to be the axle itself. I'm dealing with axle problems myself. Hopefully I'll be remedying it this weekend.

rroderiques77

iTrader: (45)

Bad cv joint. Defective axle. If vibration came on after intalling it, then it's probably the new half shaft.

BronxSleeperMax187

E bay axle.....

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

Maybe not fully engaged into the differential!

ghostrider17

iTrader: (6)

Pretty simple to test the bearing for Looseness, by jacking it up and giving it the old 12 & 6 wobble test....but that is by NO means definitive.

Bad Bearings will more than likely make roaring noises before they exhibit shaking or vibration @ speed. But again - NO ultimate maxims apply here....

My guess would be bad axle as well -- I don't think I'd EVEr waste my time buying something like that off ebay. Look at the time you've wasted now?!

Sorry - not to criticize...some things just aren't worth the $$ saved, ya know?

What's the DEAL with Raxles not being able to design a Pass. Side replacement?? Methinks there's a ReASON we're seeing so many failures on that particular side of the car.

keep us posted.

gr

Weeble1

iTrader: (8)

I tested the 12-6 and found no play the night I found the issue. The axle is in the tranny all the way. This axle was $97 bucks shipped and the seller is shipping me a new one for free with a return stamp. I would rather put in 5 or these for free with the LIFETIME warranty than spend $500 from Nissan. Just waiting on Raxles like I said. No point in spending that much for a temp fix. As far as time? It's only taking me 45 min to do an axle now including checking gear oil. Not too bad
I'll keep you posted.

SCI

Whadup my dude read ya post and I swear I can relate because the same thing happened (is still goin on a little bit) I I am slammed on ksports so everyone told me my ride height was the issue so I changed the inner/outer tie rods the shaking(vibration) still was there I changed my driver side axel with an axel from moog racing it fit no problem but the pass. side was off by like 3-4 centimeters so I drove around w/ one new axel and one old axel for like a month or two with that dumbass vibration I just gotta axel from NAPA direct oem replacement for like $60 after core charge, i did the switch at my school and ALOT of the vibration stopped but i can still feel it a little from 40 -60 m.p.h depending on how I drive and sumtimes from 0-20 m.p.h when Im rollin in a parking lot slow as hell but it was WAY worse before I am also looking for the cure, my car will be so smooth and fast when this is fixed if I find out what the fix is I will post the cure asap...

maximase86

iTrader: (24)

Well I changed my axle and the thudding vibration went away (turns out the inner c/v joint kept binding. However I still have a nasty groaning/squeel...and the only thing left to replace is the wheel bearing. That didn't look too good either. Has the nasty rusty look. As ghostrider mentioned, the 12/6 test isn't definitive. I had no play, yet the noise still exists from the right side.

S

2000MilkedMax

iTrader: (8)

Anyone think of the possibility of needing a wheel alignment?? After dropping the lower joint, its possible that the alignment changed ever so slightly...Doubtful if it is enough to cause vibration though...but just something to think about.

maximase86

iTrader: (24)

I think for it there to be vibration, the wheel would have to be obscenely out of alignment...something that should be visually noticeable. If it was slightly off, the only real indication you might see is uneven wear on the tires.

S

cobradb

Re; axle vib,, nissan designs the axle with the anti vib dampener,, more than likely the reman does not have one,, its on the axle itself. i have been at it with two reman groups about balance and their nutty sales folks say yes we check for balance before shipping,, always rebuild them yourself and keep the vib damp. your bearing is pretty tough its probably ok,,, sometimes you have to use impact becaseu of the high torque the nut requires.