Car repair checklist, @115k and need advice
#1
Car repair checklist, @115k and need advice
Its been a terribly painful month for my Max. Its a 2000 GLE with 115 miles on it and heres what I've had replaced at the shop.
Battery
Starter (Refurbed from Autozone went bad after a year)
Rotors & Pads on Front
Calipers, Rotors & Pads on Back (Refurbed from Autozone sucks)
After I got that fixed my AC Unit locked up (Grinding within the engine a belts area). So I had that replaced at the shop for another grand. Now I just got my car back and their is another noise. The shop says this is now my Alternator bearings starting to give out.
I can get an Alternator from napa for $165, I'm thinking thats a fair price, and I plan on doing it my self since I'm flat broke from the repairs a couple weeks ago. My question at this point in time is should I look to replace anything else preventative while I'm already doing the work this weekend? Anything else I can watch/look for?
Wires? Water Pump? Hoses?
I replaced the Belts again when my AC went out, I have replaced the MAF from stock a couple years ago.
any thoughts would be great. I'm fine with waiting on any other replacements.
Battery
Starter (Refurbed from Autozone went bad after a year)
Rotors & Pads on Front
Calipers, Rotors & Pads on Back (Refurbed from Autozone sucks)
After I got that fixed my AC Unit locked up (Grinding within the engine a belts area). So I had that replaced at the shop for another grand. Now I just got my car back and their is another noise. The shop says this is now my Alternator bearings starting to give out.
I can get an Alternator from napa for $165, I'm thinking thats a fair price, and I plan on doing it my self since I'm flat broke from the repairs a couple weeks ago. My question at this point in time is should I look to replace anything else preventative while I'm already doing the work this weekend? Anything else I can watch/look for?
Wires? Water Pump? Hoses?
I replaced the Belts again when my AC went out, I have replaced the MAF from stock a couple years ago.
any thoughts would be great. I'm fine with waiting on any other replacements.
#3
As standard maintenance I'd do plugs, if you haven't already. I did them at 60k and am just about due, just reached 120k.
Have a look at your sway bar endlinks, tie rod ends, and motor mounts as well.
Have a look at your sway bar endlinks, tie rod ends, and motor mounts as well.
#4
I had just bought my 2K GLE from the dealer with about 138000 on it.
Have you had your car taken to any other shops besides the one that diagnosed your problem as the alternator? Have you tested it personally?
I had to replace my drive belts at 139000 so you were a step ahead of me.
I had a bad Bank 2 CAT, which was replaced for about 500$ under dealer 30 day warranty thank god. Got my tires balanced with an alignment. Replaced my spark plugs, and tested my coils.
Have you checked the oil? Last time oil changed? What type of oil do you use? Air Filter clean?
Engine fluids. Tranny, Coolant, power steering, etc.
If you can eventually afford it, get them flushed.
Don't replace any (expensive) parts if not necessary, unless of course, your upgrading to aftermarket parts, or you just have the money to do so, which in this economy is rare. At least for people like myself.
Check for codes, even without the famous "SES" light. They do it at Autozone for free, which Im sure your aware of. Just be on the lookout at all times, and take care of your max. There great cars IMO
Have you had your car taken to any other shops besides the one that diagnosed your problem as the alternator? Have you tested it personally?
I had to replace my drive belts at 139000 so you were a step ahead of me.
I had a bad Bank 2 CAT, which was replaced for about 500$ under dealer 30 day warranty thank god. Got my tires balanced with an alignment. Replaced my spark plugs, and tested my coils.
Have you checked the oil? Last time oil changed? What type of oil do you use? Air Filter clean?
Engine fluids. Tranny, Coolant, power steering, etc.
If you can eventually afford it, get them flushed.
Don't replace any (expensive) parts if not necessary, unless of course, your upgrading to aftermarket parts, or you just have the money to do so, which in this economy is rare. At least for people like myself.
Check for codes, even without the famous "SES" light. They do it at Autozone for free, which Im sure your aware of. Just be on the lookout at all times, and take care of your max. There great cars IMO
#5
Take your alternator to a shop that specializes in automotive electric. Have it rebuilt. I had a regulator (in my '97 Altima) replaced at a shop here in town for $65 including parts and labor. Been over 3 years now, clipping along fine.
You really can't anticiapte when something will go wrong, just be ready for it, it will teach you how to do you're own work.
You really can't anticiapte when something will go wrong, just be ready for it, it will teach you how to do you're own work.
#6
Thanks
Thanks for the feedback, I got belts replaced, spark plugs done around 105k. Oil is good, Air filter I have a K&N Filter or the one that lasts like 15-30k. Fluids are next.
Just trying to avoid having my car break down lol thats my biggest fear. The problem with the AC is a bearing is going out, its making a high piched wirring noise. My AC Unit was doing the same thing, about a week in to it, it started locking up (Throwing sparks) thats when I finally got it replaced, and I had to get a belt replacd as well. I'll check around for Alternator specific replacement places. Right now Its like $165 and tons of my own labor and lack of "know how" ha ha.
Just trying to avoid having my car break down lol thats my biggest fear. The problem with the AC is a bearing is going out, its making a high piched wirring noise. My AC Unit was doing the same thing, about a week in to it, it started locking up (Throwing sparks) thats when I finally got it replaced, and I had to get a belt replacd as well. I'll check around for Alternator specific replacement places. Right now Its like $165 and tons of my own labor and lack of "know how" ha ha.
#7
I hear you on the lack of "know how." lol Kinda the reason I joined the ORG.
Before my MAX, I always had POS cars, but this one seems diff. Dont really use my AC that much, as Im more of a windows down type of guy so havent had many problems in that area...ever
Not worried at all about it breaking down, but I def. understand where your comin from. Nobody wants that.
G/L n keep us posted.
Before my MAX, I always had POS cars, but this one seems diff. Dont really use my AC that much, as Im more of a windows down type of guy so havent had many problems in that area...ever
Not worried at all about it breaking down, but I def. understand where your comin from. Nobody wants that.
G/L n keep us posted.
#10
#11
If your gonna change your tranny fluid which you should if you havent, dont flush it just drain and refill it because its safer on your tranny.Also do it twice because you wont be able to get all the old fluid out in one drain. I used MOBIL SYNTETIC ATF on my 2000 gle... 130000 miles on original tranny and still shifts like new
#12
i just cleaned my throttle body and it worked absolutely perfect on my 5.5 gen.
You're right, you could have problems if you do it incorrectly, but here's the right up i followed: http://forums.maxima.org/6848584-post28.html
The main concern with our Drive-by-wire throttles is moving the butterfly valve inside the throttle body during cleaning. If your ignition is off, and you manually move this valve, it will throw all kinds of weird CEL's at you and mess up your idle.
HOWEVER...
If you have your ignition "on" (not running, just in the "on" position) and prop your accelerator pedal to the floor, you won't have any issues. Just get a short poll, press your accelerator down with it, and slide your seat up to it to keep it all the way down.
Doing this opens the valve all the way and allows you to clean the whole throttle body, butterfly valve and all (even on the IM side of the throttle, behind the valve).
I used carb/throttle cleaner, sprayed it on a cloth rag, and gently wiped everything inside. You still don't wanna go rough moving that valve though, because the valve motor is keeping it open at this point and i'm sure you run the risk of damaging it if you go nuts and move that valve everywhere. But i still put enough pressure on it to get it cleaned well.
Just take twice as long as you think it should take, and you won't have any issues. Like i said...15-20 minutes.
The main concern with our Drive-by-wire throttles is moving the butterfly valve inside the throttle body during cleaning. If your ignition is off, and you manually move this valve, it will throw all kinds of weird CEL's at you and mess up your idle.
HOWEVER...
If you have your ignition "on" (not running, just in the "on" position) and prop your accelerator pedal to the floor, you won't have any issues. Just get a short poll, press your accelerator down with it, and slide your seat up to it to keep it all the way down.
Doing this opens the valve all the way and allows you to clean the whole throttle body, butterfly valve and all (even on the IM side of the throttle, behind the valve).
I used carb/throttle cleaner, sprayed it on a cloth rag, and gently wiped everything inside. You still don't wanna go rough moving that valve though, because the valve motor is keeping it open at this point and i'm sure you run the risk of damaging it if you go nuts and move that valve everywhere. But i still put enough pressure on it to get it cleaned well.
Just take twice as long as you think it should take, and you won't have any issues. Like i said...15-20 minutes.
#13
you and I both
2 car accidents...one of which was a hit and run and i had to fork out cash for a new mirror PAINTED, AND A NEW PAINTED BUMPER, AS WELL AS A REPAINTED FENDER. The 2nd car accident was the other guys fault and luckily he paid for the damages but STILL SUCH AN INCONVENIENCE
MY LIST OF REPAIRS have been crazy this last 8 months
new throttle body
new ECU
new IACV
new wheel hub and wheel bearing passenger side
new passenger side rear ABS sensor
new drivers side strut mount
All new belts
Im done with the max...G35 coupe here i come
I wonder whats next
2 car accidents...one of which was a hit and run and i had to fork out cash for a new mirror PAINTED, AND A NEW PAINTED BUMPER, AS WELL AS A REPAINTED FENDER. The 2nd car accident was the other guys fault and luckily he paid for the damages but STILL SUCH AN INCONVENIENCE
MY LIST OF REPAIRS have been crazy this last 8 months
new throttle body
new ECU
new IACV
new wheel hub and wheel bearing passenger side
new passenger side rear ABS sensor
new drivers side strut mount
All new belts
Im done with the max...G35 coupe here i come
I wonder whats next
#19
All my 'regular Maxima nuance parts' have failed right on schedule. MAF, coils, axle, radiator, alternator, batteries, etc etc. Dependable, yes, but still has parts that fail that have to be replaced as any car gets older.
#20
Justin,
I'd change your tranny fluid, coolant, and inspect the axles and tie rod ends.
How's your brake fluid looking? I flushed mine a few weeks ago. Took a while, but the fluid is almost clear now and the brake pedal feels solid.
Good luck. Keep me updated.
I'd change your tranny fluid, coolant, and inspect the axles and tie rod ends.
How's your brake fluid looking? I flushed mine a few weeks ago. Took a while, but the fluid is almost clear now and the brake pedal feels solid.
Good luck. Keep me updated.
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