Hey guys so i replaced the IAVC, and this engine code is still coming up, will i need to replace the ecu?

I know someone selling a used ecu with 112km with traction control for $125 , worth it?

thanks

 

sorry IACV****

 

Just pull your ECU out and remove the ECU lid, this way you will get a visual confirmation that your ECU is OK or fried.

Then make sure your TPS sensor is adjusted according to the Nissan Manual specs and you need to do the idle relearn procedure, if not the code will still pop up

 

thanks,

how do u perform the relearn?

 

Idle Air Volume Learning 2000-2001
replacing IACV- I have a few questions

 

I would say to check your throttle cables first. Just disconnect the cruise and gas pedal cables and see where it idles. Check this thread. Good luck

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ec-engine.html.

 

I am new and so apparently cannot post a new thread. Your post is timely as I was about to embark on my own p0505 problem.
Since we are both in the same boat, may I share this thread?
I have a 2001 Maxima GLE auto, no mods.
I also built a code reader some time ago when ABS light came on, and I have reset my malfunction lamp.
If I could help with any multimeter readings, photos, even oscilloscope readings, we could help each other and other idle victims.
Symptoms are: Starts and dies in a second or so. Give it gas while starting for a few seconds and it is good for the day, even re starts are fine.
I am worried of pending burnout of ECM, and just noticed minutes ago here that I could open it and check for burned components, then found your post.
I won't continue to hijack your thread without permission to share.
Thanks'
Jim

 

I went through a burned ECM, if you can solder you should have no problem repairing.
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...d-seconds.html

 

Wow great lead, nakis. I'd say is good advice for the original poster here too. If he let's me, I'll post my experiences. To start, I'm going to now pull the ECU, so off to spend more time here on best way to find/pull it. Then check for coil dc resistance, coolant leaks, if the mice ate any vacuum lines etc.
I've been in servo electromechanical engineering most of my life, so will check out all this stepper driver and h-drive chips. I am pleasantly surprised the thing wasn't all potted like my Caravan SMEC, although the smec's were way reliable.


update: 90623 10:23 edt.
I learned a lot today and if not for this forum, would not know if I would have gotten so much info from other forums or google.
Looks like I am still hijacking the OP thread, but maybe he is gone or fixed his problem.
Anyway till I can post a new thread with 'solved' in the subject here is today so far:
Since it was a good excuse to pull out the Bose oem radio, so I could put aux audio jack, use mp3, ipod, Revox reel to reel tape recorder whatever, I thought I'd get a bird's eye view of the ecm. It wasn't where I expected. Unlike any pictures I saw, and unlike the official ripped out pages of dealer pictures and procedures, I got it out. It is available by pulling the tunnel side panels, the glove box, probably leaving the radio/console area intact. Think: it is on the floor about an inch from the firewall.
You will be fooled by all the boxes above it. Above it and accessed by taking out the radio assy, is the transmission control unit, and the speed control unit above it.
Do not try the 2 10mm bolts that look like it will easily remove the bracket, it is a trap. Instead, remove he 4 phillips/hex bolts holding the ecm to the bracket. I used a 1/4 inch drive and 8mm socket. also good would be an ignition wrench box or open end, or ideally a 8 mm ratchet box.
As soon as I picked it up I could hear stuff inside rattling.
The chip sta509A was exploded. Not confirmed myself, but this is supposed to be the idle air control valve driver chip.
Since chips don't usually go like this, I would be surprised if my later tests don't show a problem with the stepper motor on the throttle body.
Had I known the above, I could have removed the computer in a half hour, and returned it for use either repaired or to drive to dealer for a junker box reprogram. Hope my info helps.
I will send money to the org, thanks!
And if anyone needs real mil spec engineering benchwork, I wouldn't mind doing the soldering, some bench checks, etc. I don't want to step on other advertisers toes here, just seems some could use me.
I also have a full audio bench left over from hi-fi days I keep up and calibrated.
LOL 1000w watt car systems lol. Thump thump screech screech, db's not hifi.