Radiator Replacement Writeup
07-11-2013, 12:10 PM
#161
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 13
Mine just went Sunday. 
antifreeze all over the engine bay!
Can't complain. It lasted 164k miles...
Hairline crack under the Nissan logo on top of radiator. Purchased $109 Spectra from Autozone. Super simple replacement, especially when 6 speed. No tranny lines
Used 50/50 so I didn't have to worry about the mixture and distilled versus tap water, etc.
antifreeze all over the engine bay!Can't complain. It lasted 164k miles...
Hairline crack under the Nissan logo on top of radiator. Purchased $109 Spectra from Autozone. Super simple replacement, especially when 6 speed. No tranny lines
Used 50/50 so I didn't have to worry about the mixture and distilled versus tap water, etc.
Just read through this whole thread and will be putting all of this excellent advice to use this weekend. I plan on replacing it all. Radiator, hoses, thermostat, cap and doing an oil change while in there. Got the TYC radiator (Koyorad box) from Rockauto.com for $48. Also grabbed Gates hoses and cap. I think the thermostat is Beck/Arnley.
08-26-2013, 10:13 AM
#162
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 3
Completed the full job over the weekend. Replaced T-stat, Radiator, and upper and lower rad hoses. Thanks for the writeup - it was a lifesaver!
In the process, I seemed to break the smaller of the two tabs on the hose clamps. The broke right after seating the clamps *almost* where I wanted them. So the hoses are on and the clamps are holding, but should I be worried about this? Is there a recommended place to buy new clamps? Should I replace them with the screw-type clamps instead of spring-type? And how do I remove them with one of the pinch-tabs broken?
Thanks in advance if anybody sees this!
In the process, I seemed to break the smaller of the two tabs on the hose clamps. The broke right after seating the clamps *almost* where I wanted them. So the hoses are on and the clamps are holding, but should I be worried about this? Is there a recommended place to buy new clamps? Should I replace them with the screw-type clamps instead of spring-type? And how do I remove them with one of the pinch-tabs broken?
Thanks in advance if anybody sees this!
08-26-2013, 10:56 AM
#163
Stick with the spring clamps. They apply constant pressure as the aluminum expands and contracts, and they're only $2 from the dealership. As far as getting the broken one off, just do the best you can.
08-26-2013, 11:15 AM
#164
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 3
08-28-2013, 12:40 PM
#165
Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 265
Before I start… I understand that this procedure is not a tough one and is pretty straight forward to most. But for others like me who have never even thought about changing out a radiator this may come in handy. Plus… pics are always a good thing. Also, I am no mech guru of any sort so all comments and tips that may help this thread are very welcome.
I was quoted by Nissan $792 for radiator replacement. Trust me... spend $140 on the radiator and install it yourself!!!
Items Needed:
1. Drip pan
2. Pliers (or whatever you’d like to grab those hose clamps)
3. Socket Wrench
4. 10mm Socket
5. Flat Head Screwdriver
6. Floor Jack (not necessary but makes it much easier)
7. Radiator Hoses (good to change out after 50-60k)
8. Radiator Hose Clips (the kind that screw tight, not clamps)
9. Funnel
Directions:
1. Remove splash shields (right and left) from underneath the front of the car.
(four 10mm bolts each)
2. With the splash shields removed the lower radiator will be visible.
3. With your drip pan below the radiator, unscrew the drain found here using a flat head screwdriver:
It may take a while for the radiator to completely drain. In fact, mine never stopped dripping completely.
4. After the radiator is drained you can begin to undo hoses.
Top:
Bottom:
AT Lines: (2 if you drive an AT)
Also don't forget to undo the line from the Reservoir Tank.
I used a pair of rubber bands to keep the AT lines folded closed. Otherwise you’ll lose AT fluid.
***Continued…
I was quoted by Nissan $792 for radiator replacement. Trust me... spend $140 on the radiator and install it yourself!!!
Items Needed:
1. Drip pan
2. Pliers (or whatever you’d like to grab those hose clamps)
3. Socket Wrench
4. 10mm Socket
5. Flat Head Screwdriver
6. Floor Jack (not necessary but makes it much easier)
7. Radiator Hoses (good to change out after 50-60k)
8. Radiator Hose Clips (the kind that screw tight, not clamps)
9. Funnel
Directions:
1. Remove splash shields (right and left) from underneath the front of the car.
(four 10mm bolts each)
2. With the splash shields removed the lower radiator will be visible.
3. With your drip pan below the radiator, unscrew the drain found here using a flat head screwdriver:
It may take a while for the radiator to completely drain. In fact, mine never stopped dripping completely.
4. After the radiator is drained you can begin to undo hoses.
Top:
Bottom:
AT Lines: (2 if you drive an AT)
Also don't forget to undo the line from the Reservoir Tank.
I used a pair of rubber bands to keep the AT lines folded closed. Otherwise you’ll lose AT fluid.
***Continued…
08-28-2013, 08:32 PM
#166
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 4
So this method does or does not involve draining the coolant from the drain plug? Don't you need to remove the splash shield in order to get to the drain plug? And if not, is that why you say a ton of coolant will come out of the lower hose once unplugged? Thanks! ! 
Wanna add a few comments since I did this recently:
1. The splash shield bolts may be rusted out and if you try to take them out, they'll break. Since I wanted to avoid this, you can take out the fan first to get to the bottom hoses from the top (like pmohr recommended, but not sure if it was for the same reason). The lower hose clamp may still be a little hard to get to from the top, but from the bottom, just reach into the hole in the splash shield and loosen the clamp with some small locking pliers. Then go up top and remove it. I just didn't wanna take the chance of not being able to re-affix the splash shields!
2. Be prepared for a lot of coolant to come out of the lower hose when you disconnect it!
3. Be prepared for some ATF to come out of the middle hose when disconnected!
1. The splash shield bolts may be rusted out and if you try to take them out, they'll break. Since I wanted to avoid this, you can take out the fan first to get to the bottom hoses from the top (like pmohr recommended, but not sure if it was for the same reason). The lower hose clamp may still be a little hard to get to from the top, but from the bottom, just reach into the hole in the splash shield and loosen the clamp with some small locking pliers. Then go up top and remove it. I just didn't wanna take the chance of not being able to re-affix the splash shields!
2. Be prepared for a lot of coolant to come out of the lower hose when you disconnect it!
3. Be prepared for some ATF to come out of the middle hose when disconnected!
08-30-2013, 08:10 AM
#167
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: New York
Posts: 2
thanks for all your inputs on replacing the radiator..I managed to get it done last week. I still notice a small amount of coolant on the left splash guard..I dont see any problems with radiator or hoses. Any idea where else I should be looking at..? it is definitely not water pump which is on the right side
Thanks
Thanks
08-17-2017, 07:59 PM
#168
Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: NYC
Posts: 125
Great overview and well documented. My radiator was leaking at 105k miles. After the install I bled the system. I purchased the Lisle 24680 Spill-Free Funnel to make this process a little more straightforward. I also jacked the car up until the front spoiler was over 22" off the ground and squeezed the upper radiator hose to expedite the process. The heat started to work after about a half an hour of bleeding the system. Thanks.
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