Confused about SSIM..Spacers...block plate.
#42
#44
#45
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (29)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Middleboro/Carver, Ma
Posts: 4,572
hmm... not to nut swang on the guy, but IIRC Jaypee has the L-spec and is running some of the best bumbers on here N/A... lemme ask, if i say i want the custom tune will they automatically give me the z33 maps???... on paper i see the difference... on the track i dont
#47
#48
Probably end up doing the Trans Go shift kit one of these days. With 162,025 miles on my car as of today, if I'm going to put some money into my car, I probably should be willing to put an engine and transmission into it when needed or find a lower mileage Maxima.
#49
wait... so what is the ssim again? i understand the block off plate, i understand the spacers.. i read both and how to do it on the NWP site.. but what is the SSIM?
i plan on buy the spacers, block off plate, i guess do the ssim, intake, headers, ypipe, test pipe and exhaust and just swap all at once...
i do have an auto and i'll have the valve body built with the transgo.
another thing.. i know TS does the reflash... is it really worth it? i've read some of the things they can do, but i guess its beneficial with all those mods.. especially the intake manifold mods.
its funny.. i grew up with muscle cars... went to turbo's forgot about about NA stuff hahaha... gotta relearn crap..
i plan on buy the spacers, block off plate, i guess do the ssim, intake, headers, ypipe, test pipe and exhaust and just swap all at once...
i do have an auto and i'll have the valve body built with the transgo.
another thing.. i know TS does the reflash... is it really worth it? i've read some of the things they can do, but i guess its beneficial with all those mods.. especially the intake manifold mods.
its funny.. i grew up with muscle cars... went to turbo's forgot about about NA stuff hahaha... gotta relearn crap..
#50
with all that your going to need a way to tune your a/f ratio.. just sayin...
ssim=secreat sauce intake manifold .. lol...basically you cut the shelf out that is in the middle of the manifold, which opens up the runners more,.. some say its worth it some say its not.. there is a dyno compare around that shows the block off plate puts down more then the block off with shelf cut,.. but its all subjective,..
ssim=secreat sauce intake manifold .. lol...basically you cut the shelf out that is in the middle of the manifold, which opens up the runners more,.. some say its worth it some say its not.. there is a dyno compare around that shows the block off plate puts down more then the block off with shelf cut,.. but its all subjective,..
#51
oh ok... so basically its best to just do the block off plate and spacers...
i'm assuming since one of the mods the TechnoSquare does keep the butterfly open all the way to redline, the ssim would be beneficial?
i thought about doing the greddy emanage ultimate but its just simpler to do the TS...plus its oem just reflashed..
is there a write up? because when i click on the HOW TO's it always has a different thread connected to it and never is the same thread to the actual HOW to
i'm assuming since one of the mods the TechnoSquare does keep the butterfly open all the way to redline, the ssim would be beneficial?
i thought about doing the greddy emanage ultimate but its just simpler to do the TS...plus its oem just reflashed..
is there a write up? because when i click on the HOW TO's it always has a different thread connected to it and never is the same thread to the actual HOW to
#52
unlike adding boost to an NA car... *which is fun*, i really just wanna do all bolt ons and reflash.. i wanna do all the bolt on's mods that i can for NA without cracking the head open with cams n stuff...
maybe one day i can buy a good used motor and do the cams then before swapping into the car... but...
for now.. this would be nice daily
i just gotta make sure i do the transgo kit.
maybe one day i can buy a good used motor and do the cams then before swapping into the car... but...
for now.. this would be nice daily
i just gotta make sure i do the transgo kit.
#53
My understanding of the VIAS issue is that a modded engine can create an air-flow turbulence which compromises the pull from the vacuum actuator at WOT, causing the value to flutter. Hence the VIAS-delete mod, sacrificing a little low-end torque for improved high-rev air-flow. I haven't done it yet myself... saving that bit of fun for next Spring.
MidN1te, please don't take this the wrong way, but it reads like you're going after everything all at once. Slow down man, and force yourself to do one thing at a time.
Be the ball. Na-na-na-na-na...
#54
no offense taken Rochester..
its how i operate... If i already have the car down for doing the headers and ypipe and exhaust... its not much more to take off the intake and put the spacers on and the block off plate... i was freaked out about doing my spark plugs... one day i just went at it... i was SO surprised how easy it was it took me roughly 30 min... so unbolting the rest to add the spacers *and doing the proper procedure according the instructions* all at once, is definately alot better imo...
its how i operate... If i already have the car down for doing the headers and ypipe and exhaust... its not much more to take off the intake and put the spacers on and the block off plate... i was freaked out about doing my spark plugs... one day i just went at it... i was SO surprised how easy it was it took me roughly 30 min... so unbolting the rest to add the spacers *and doing the proper procedure according the instructions* all at once, is definately alot better imo...
#55
when i build cars... ofcourse there are times where you take steps.. but other times its beneficial do do things all at once..
for exampe.. if i do the headers and ypipe... i might as well add the Test Pipe and exhaust because its all new and easy to just bolt right on...
after i get all those...i'll just drop the car off at the house, send the ecu to TS. then get it back, drive it to the shop to have the Valve body modded with the transgo..
technically i should do the valve body to prepare for the extra power..
but what i'm doing is gathering parts...
for exampe.. if i do the headers and ypipe... i might as well add the Test Pipe and exhaust because its all new and easy to just bolt right on...
after i get all those...i'll just drop the car off at the house, send the ecu to TS. then get it back, drive it to the shop to have the Valve body modded with the transgo..
technically i should do the valve body to prepare for the extra power..
but what i'm doing is gathering parts...
#57
well then... shoot... i guess the ssim isnt worth it to me then... i only say this because i know it shifts the power from low end to the top end..
and i'm in the city more than anything and i would need the more down low power but willing to sacrefice some of it for the highway runs...
so i can safely say just do the spacers and block off plate? full bolt ons and reflash?
#60
Yeah for sure you can. I already did headers intake and block plate. Next will be 3" catback spacers and AFR tuning... then we'll see about the reflash. The main reason I would do the flash is to move up the rev limiter
#61
This is definately something i'mma gonna do..
BUT first since i just got a whole slew of stuff done to the maxima with new lip kit and paint job and rims ect ect..
im gonna hold off until i upgrade my turbo on my s2000.. trying to get my 400whp first lol
BUT first since i just got a whole slew of stuff done to the maxima with new lip kit and paint job and rims ect ect..
im gonna hold off until i upgrade my turbo on my s2000.. trying to get my 400whp first lol
#62
#63
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...r-5-5-gen.html
This would be a VIAS-delete, but no Intake Spacers, right?
#64
C'mon, funny man. Get that VIAS valve off your ride and let us know what you think!
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...r-5-5-gen.html
This would be a VIAS-delete, but no Intake Spacers, right?
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...r-5-5-gen.html
This would be a VIAS-delete, but no Intake Spacers, right?
I just got the block-off plate, going to get the spacers when I change the plugs.
#66
Here is a comparison for yall on this block plate thing...
i raised 3mph with doing the SSIM on top of the block plate (no spacers) at the track, also lowered my PB by .2...
vids
Block plate No SSIM
http://www.youtube.com/burrtvdotcom1#p/u/1/45N0MWPRtg0
SSIM and Block plate
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jlvEqClE9R0
Forget dyno paperwork... Performance and video is proof... now i cant really say it is because of the SSIM why i ran .2 seconds faster cause i had smaller wheels on... but i can say for a fact its because of the SSIM why i went from 97.08mph to 100.22mph... a very pleasing 3.14mph
i raised 3mph with doing the SSIM on top of the block plate (no spacers) at the track, also lowered my PB by .2...
vids
Block plate No SSIM
http://www.youtube.com/burrtvdotcom1#p/u/1/45N0MWPRtg0
SSIM and Block plate
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jlvEqClE9R0
Forget dyno paperwork... Performance and video is proof... now i cant really say it is because of the SSIM why i ran .2 seconds faster cause i had smaller wheels on... but i can say for a fact its because of the SSIM why i went from 97.08mph to 100.22mph... a very pleasing 3.14mph
#67
Your absolutely right! i just remembered reading the instructions.
well then... shoot... i guess the ssim isnt worth it to me then... i only say this because i know it shifts the power from low end to the top end..
and i'm in the city more than anything and i would need the more down low power but willing to sacrefice some of it for the highway runs...
so i can safely say just do the spacers and block off plate? full bolt ons and reflash?
well then... shoot... i guess the ssim isnt worth it to me then... i only say this because i know it shifts the power from low end to the top end..
and i'm in the city more than anything and i would need the more down low power but willing to sacrefice some of it for the highway runs...
so i can safely say just do the spacers and block off plate? full bolt ons and reflash?
#68
SSIM is worth it... trust... the minor loss in bottom end is worth it... think of it like this, for the most part u only see 3k and lower rpms when u leave the line, so bottom end really doesnt mean too much ur always 4K and climbing when your actually using the SSIM
Nice job getting into the 13's and trapping 100+.
#69
Installed the NWP Block Plate this evening.
A few things for those who haven't yet done this mod:
1. The wiring bundle has a third bolt under it that is hard to access. If I'd had a 12 mm wrench, that might not have mattered but for some reason I couldn't find mine and had to access the 3 bolts on the VIAS set-up with a socket wrench and you can't access the lower rear bolt without removing the 3rd wiring bundle bolt. Make sure you have the tools you need (which are listed in the directions). I also had to unplug the light blue, dark blue and green wiring connectors to have enough clearance to get that bolt with a socket.
2. If you have a upper strut bar, unbolt it on the passenger side, gives you more clearance.
3. Read the directions! You cannot remove the VIAS assembly if you don't partially close the butterfly valve. It closes towards the radiator, NOT THE FIREWALL! I would have realized what the problem was if I'd turned to page 2 of the directions.
My impressions of the mod:
1. Very nice looking, well machined plate. Fits perfectly.
2. I did notice some "softness" between 2800 to around 4000 rpm but after that there is a noticable surge and the tach seems to fly towards redline. Plus I noticed that left in drive, my car was now shifting at 6400 rpm instead of 6200 rpm.
3. If you launch hard, you really don't notice the bottom end loss, especially if you allow a *little* wheelspin.
4. From a roll, even if the engine is under 4000 rpms after the downshift, the pull is more consistent. A constant irritation with my car is how at lets say, a 50 mph roll, when I get all the way on it, sometimes it pulls real hard, other times it is soft until the rpms build a bit. My guess is that the VIAS system doesn't always work exactly as it is supposed to and the valve doesn't open and close properly all the time.
5. The surge above 4000 rpms is oddly more pronounced at part throttle. Not sure why but it was a nice surprise.
Since everyone likes pictures:
I can see why this big 'ol thing is a restriction on top end! And yes, my car does use a quart of oil every 1500-1800 miles on average. However, there was no pooling of oil in the intake but it did have a yellowish cast to the interior.
A few things for those who haven't yet done this mod:
1. The wiring bundle has a third bolt under it that is hard to access. If I'd had a 12 mm wrench, that might not have mattered but for some reason I couldn't find mine and had to access the 3 bolts on the VIAS set-up with a socket wrench and you can't access the lower rear bolt without removing the 3rd wiring bundle bolt. Make sure you have the tools you need (which are listed in the directions). I also had to unplug the light blue, dark blue and green wiring connectors to have enough clearance to get that bolt with a socket.
2. If you have a upper strut bar, unbolt it on the passenger side, gives you more clearance.
3. Read the directions! You cannot remove the VIAS assembly if you don't partially close the butterfly valve. It closes towards the radiator, NOT THE FIREWALL! I would have realized what the problem was if I'd turned to page 2 of the directions.
My impressions of the mod:
1. Very nice looking, well machined plate. Fits perfectly.
2. I did notice some "softness" between 2800 to around 4000 rpm but after that there is a noticable surge and the tach seems to fly towards redline. Plus I noticed that left in drive, my car was now shifting at 6400 rpm instead of 6200 rpm.
3. If you launch hard, you really don't notice the bottom end loss, especially if you allow a *little* wheelspin.
4. From a roll, even if the engine is under 4000 rpms after the downshift, the pull is more consistent. A constant irritation with my car is how at lets say, a 50 mph roll, when I get all the way on it, sometimes it pulls real hard, other times it is soft until the rpms build a bit. My guess is that the VIAS system doesn't always work exactly as it is supposed to and the valve doesn't open and close properly all the time.
5. The surge above 4000 rpms is oddly more pronounced at part throttle. Not sure why but it was a nice surprise.
Since everyone likes pictures:
I can see why this big 'ol thing is a restriction on top end! And yes, my car does use a quart of oil every 1500-1800 miles on average. However, there was no pooling of oil in the intake but it did have a yellowish cast to the interior.
Last edited by Scottwax; 11-19-2009 at 08:27 PM.
#70
I think the powervalve would work better if the vacuum tube was larger than what is on there right now. It's just way too small to compensate for the rubulence of the air blasting past it at WOT.
I have a blockoff plate sitting here right now, but I'm not sure if it will mess up my tune.
I have a blockoff plate sitting here right now, but I'm not sure if it will mess up my tune.
#71
#72
[QUOTE=Scottwax;7302721]Installed the NWP Block Plate this evening.
A few things for those who haven't yet done this mod:
1. The wiring bundle has a third bolt under it that is hard to access. If I'd had a 12 mm wrench, that might not have mattered but for some reason I couldn't find mine and had to access the 3 bolts on the VIAS set-up with a socket wrench and you can't access the lower rear bolt without removing the 3rd wiring bundle bolt. Make sure you have the tools you need (which are listed in the directions). I also had to unplug the light blue, dark blue and green wiring connectors to have enough clearance to get that bolt with a socket.
2. If you have a upper strut bar, unbolt it on the passenger side, gives you more clearance.
3. Read the directions! You cannot remove the VIAS assembly if you don't partially close the butterfly valve. It closes towards the radiator, NOT THE FIREWALL! I would have realized what the problem was if I'd turned to page 2 of the directions.
My impressions of the mod:
1. Very nice looking, well machined plate. Fits perfectly.
2. I did notice some "softness" between 2800 to around 4000 rpm but after that there is a noticable surge and the tach seems to fly towards redline. Plus I noticed that left in drive, my car was now shifting at 6400 rpm instead of 6200 rpm.
3. If you launch hard, you really don't notice the bottom end loss, especially if you allow a *little* wheelspin.
4. From a roll, even if the engine is under 4000 rpms after the downshift, the pull is more consistent. A constant irritation with my car is how at lets say, a 50 mph roll, when I get all the way on it, sometimes it pulls real hard, other times it is soft until the rpms build a bit. My guess is that the VIAS system doesn't always work exactly as it is supposed to and the valve doesn't open and close properly all the time.
5. The surge above 4000 rpms is oddly more pronounced at part throttle. Not sure why but it was a nice surprise.
Since everyone likes pictures:
I can see why this big 'ol thing is a restriction on top end! And yes, my car does use a quart of oil every 1500-1800 miles on average. However, there was no pooling of oil in the intake but it did have a yellowish cast to the interior.
Nice write up Scott.
A few things for those who haven't yet done this mod:
1. The wiring bundle has a third bolt under it that is hard to access. If I'd had a 12 mm wrench, that might not have mattered but for some reason I couldn't find mine and had to access the 3 bolts on the VIAS set-up with a socket wrench and you can't access the lower rear bolt without removing the 3rd wiring bundle bolt. Make sure you have the tools you need (which are listed in the directions). I also had to unplug the light blue, dark blue and green wiring connectors to have enough clearance to get that bolt with a socket.
2. If you have a upper strut bar, unbolt it on the passenger side, gives you more clearance.
3. Read the directions! You cannot remove the VIAS assembly if you don't partially close the butterfly valve. It closes towards the radiator, NOT THE FIREWALL! I would have realized what the problem was if I'd turned to page 2 of the directions.
My impressions of the mod:
1. Very nice looking, well machined plate. Fits perfectly.
2. I did notice some "softness" between 2800 to around 4000 rpm but after that there is a noticable surge and the tach seems to fly towards redline. Plus I noticed that left in drive, my car was now shifting at 6400 rpm instead of 6200 rpm.
3. If you launch hard, you really don't notice the bottom end loss, especially if you allow a *little* wheelspin.
4. From a roll, even if the engine is under 4000 rpms after the downshift, the pull is more consistent. A constant irritation with my car is how at lets say, a 50 mph roll, when I get all the way on it, sometimes it pulls real hard, other times it is soft until the rpms build a bit. My guess is that the VIAS system doesn't always work exactly as it is supposed to and the valve doesn't open and close properly all the time.
5. The surge above 4000 rpms is oddly more pronounced at part throttle. Not sure why but it was a nice surprise.
Since everyone likes pictures:
I can see why this big 'ol thing is a restriction on top end! And yes, my car does use a quart of oil every 1500-1800 miles on average. However, there was no pooling of oil in the intake but it did have a yellowish cast to the interior.
Nice write up Scott.
#73
First of all, ignore any info for the 00/01 cars. The VIAS is different and not what we are talking about.
Removing it is really simple.
First, remove the vacuum line going to it and block it off. You can just fold it over and zip tie it.
Next, unbolt and remove the stock plate. It has the whole mechanism attachet to it inside the manifold.
Finally, reuse the gasket and bolt the blockoff plate in place.
That's all there is to it. You can keep the stock mechanism so you can return it to stock later if you want.
Removing it is really simple.
First, remove the vacuum line going to it and block it off. You can just fold it over and zip tie it.
Next, unbolt and remove the stock plate. It has the whole mechanism attachet to it inside the manifold.
Finally, reuse the gasket and bolt the blockoff plate in place.
That's all there is to it. You can keep the stock mechanism so you can return it to stock later if you want.
#74
Originally Posted by Derrick2k2SE
First of all, ignore any info for the 00/01 cars. The VIAS is different and not what we are talking about.
5.0 Max? Unless you've swapped in a 302 from a Mustang, I'm going to assume you mean a 3.0.
The only applicable mod for a 2000/1 Maxima is the NWP intake spacers. Not sure if the gains are the same as the 2002/3 VQ35 Maximas.
#75
he meant 5.0 as in terms of not a 5.5 ,.,.,. at least i think,...but i see where your comming from .. makes me think of a foxbody right away too
and yes..there is no such thing as a block blate on a 3.0 motor.. only spacers..
and yes..there is no such thing as a block blate on a 3.0 motor.. only spacers..
#76
You might want to read the quote you pulled better.
5.0 Max? Unless you've swapped in a 302 from a Mustang, I'm going to assume you mean a 3.0.
The only applicable mod for a 2000/1 Maxima is the NWP intake spacers. Not sure if the gains are the same as the 2002/3 VQ35 Maximas.
5.0 Max? Unless you've swapped in a 302 from a Mustang, I'm going to assume you mean a 3.0.
The only applicable mod for a 2000/1 Maxima is the NWP intake spacers. Not sure if the gains are the same as the 2002/3 VQ35 Maximas.
#77
and there arnt any spacers for the DE-k modle(00-01) cause the IM is plastic and not metal which is the point of the spacers. to keep heat from the metal engine heating up the metal IM runners. thats why we put on spacers.
#78
#79
#80