1swtmax

Good read and nice job scottwax.

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

Scottwax...
I'm with you on the most driveability possible....the spacers first then I'll built my own block off plate....With the present mods I've done on my 2003 A/T Maxima.. My Hybrid Shortram Intake along with my Cattman headers and exhaust and many other mods....my car pulls hard and consistently with so much torque in traffic it's a blast to drive and not have to step into the throttle to make things happen or to past someone....just a simple 1/4" -1/2" more into the throttle...I'll do my spacers, new coils, upgraded 04 v/c and some quick port clean up in mid December....But all in all Scottwax the Stock IM/w VIAS delete, NWP block plate did seem imo to be the better streetable combo when viewing the charts. I too believe in real world performance not that 100% dragstrip bull$#!t when I don't live at that above 5000 rpm range just going to the store or going on an out of state trip....yall get my point!

perkman87

iTrader: (6)

Oh I cant tell you how Excited I am for Sunday

New Wheels
BBK
NWP Spacers
Sparkerduddeldoos
Front Strut Bar
Rear Sway


All I need is the block plate and Ill bee good to go.


Of course I will Take pics ( no need to ask )

Scottwax

iTrader: (8)

Last thing I wanted to kill was the midrange torque, makes the car very entertaining to drive. Not sure if the ECU adjusts to the airflow difference with the block plate or not, but after a week of driving since the install, I really don't notice much loss at all in the midrange and there is a small but noticeable bump once you pass 4000 rpms.

I loved the big cam and gears in my Chevelle but swapped a 455 into a Cutlass made a car just as fun because it had so much torque from just off idle to around 5000 rpms. The Cutlass wasn't as quick as the Chevelle (maybe mid to high 14s vs high 12s) but it was easier to live with just tooling around town and gas mileage was around 50% better in town and nearly double on the freeway (12 mpg vs 7 in town, 17 vs 9 on the freeway).

knight_yyz

iTrader: (40)

Well, it isn't as fancy looking as the NWP plate, but I installed one of my homemade plates on Ghost's car this afternoon and we took it for a spin. I know he was happy with the results. Here's a few pics after the install. I'll let him chime in on the experience of driving with the VIAS deleted.

Rochester

iTrader: (3)

You're a humble man, Knight. Or, you're a humble Knight, man.

Either way, your plate looks great in those images. Can't wait to hear Ghost's opinions.

I'm guessing you just capped the other end of the vacuum tube, right? Have you given any thought to removing the entire vacuum canister? I don't know enough about that part, but it looks like its sole purpose is to support a steady vacuum pressure for the VIAS. Am I wrong, Knight? I'm thinking you'd know.

knight_yyz

iTrader: (40)

It was a last minute decision to do this. The weather co-operated so we went ahead with it. Right now it is ghetto tie wrapped for the loose air line. We left the canister and the solenoid there under the cover where it can't be seen. Then folded the line coming out of the canister and tiewrapped it tight as could be. I will help him remove the canister and make it less ghetto in the spring.

I was under the impression that the canister is charcoal. But you may be right and it is like a small plenum to keep an air supply for the actuator on demand. I had that canister replaced last January when a deer committed suicide by jumping into the path of my car. I wish I cut the old canister in half to see what is really in there.

We could have taken the canister off, I know another guy who has done this, but it was getting late and the temps were dropping fast. You can't see it so I decided to leave it on for now. I know Ghost is hoping for spacers in the spring so I will take care of the canister at the same time.

Scottwax

iTrader: (8)

In that big thread about the power loss this summer, apparently the problem was after his mechanic did the spacer and block plate install, he removed the whole VIAS system, cannister and electrical stuff. Gave him a pending P1800 code and a noticable loss of power. Hooking all that stuff back up restored the power loss.

Scottwax

iTrader: (8)

Here is the link. Don't remove the cannister or electrical connections:

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...no-fail-3.html

knight_yyz

iTrader: (40)

Hmm, I though that NWP sent you a small plug to block the vacuum port so it was possible to remove the canister but keep the solenoid to avoid the code?

knight_yyz

iTrader: (40)

Scott, how did you do your setup? from your ;ictures, I see you did not unplug the vac hose near the plate. But in your other pic the Vias is sitting on something and the hose there is still plugged into the actuator.

I was taking a look at another car with the VIAS delete and he has a small rubber cap on the vac port just in front of the plate, and the canister is gone. But the solenoid is there to keep the pending code from popping up. I see no reason to keep the canister if that port is blocked.

Scottwax

iTrader: (8)

I used the vacuum cap on the port that the VIAS vacuum line connected to on the manifold. Everything else is intact.

knight_yyz

iTrader: (40)

so the canister is basically a paperweight now? I still don't see how storm had a problem removing the canister if the port is plugged.

Scottwax

iTrader: (8)

Maybe whatever electrical connection there is needs a signal from the cannister?

knight_yyz

iTrader: (40)

The solenoid only receives a signal for on or off from the ECU. It sends an 'on' signal between 1800-3600 RPM, and an 'off' signal the rest of the time. So according to that, the canister should be removable as long as it doesn't cause vacuum leak.

I don't see how removing the canister can cause a horsepower loss.

Rochester

iTrader: (3)

I just read through that thread, and didn't see where it was advisable to retain the canister, only to cap the vacuum lines on the solenoid. Pmohr said you'd throw a code if you removed the solenoid

I suppose in the end it doesn't matter, it's 100% hidden if you're using your engine shroud. It just looks like so much useless crap supporting a valve that's no longer there.

No... how could that canister give or receive any signal? There is no electrical connection to the canister, just incoming and outgoing vacuum lines. I could see retaining the solenoid so the ECU doesn't throw a code, but the canister...?

Yes, he gives you one cap. Perhaps if you capped both vacuum leads on the solenoid, as well as the source line from the IM next to the VIAS, you could keep the solenoid but remove the canister?

Why would there be a huge charcoal filter canister as part of this system? The design seems almost crude. Does anyone know for sure what that thing is for?

Rochester

iTrader: (3)

Here, for reference I borrowed the image from that other thread. Knight, you can see the little vacuum cap on the solenoid.

knight_yyz

iTrader: (40)

I know someone who put the cap on the spot where the yellow line points to. He took the canister off. He doesn't seem to have a power loss, but I guess a dyno will confirm that in the near future.

the solenoid shouldn't care that there are no hoses attached to it. It's just a tiny piston that moves back and forth to allow air to pass or not.

Rochester

iTrader: (3)

Yep, that makes sense to me. But keep the solenoid because it's part of the electrical equation, right? Capping the other end, and retaining the canister, gives you an easily reversible mod, is all.

I wrote to NWP just now to ask these questions. Figure, he's selling the VIAS-delete mod, so he maybe should know.

mist max2000

iTrader: (16)

FWIW- i have the cap where rochesters first pic is..and the rest of the system is intact,...dont have any problems and dont intend to take the 'system' out because everyhting is working and im not sure whats goin on in there lol

Scottwax

iTrader: (8)

Maybe I should have been more clear about what I meant when I said "signal". Could be it has to read vacuum off the cannister. You can see a vacuum line that goes into the cannister.

I'm getting zero codes and pretty good power with the system as is just capping off the port as directed in the instructions for the block plate.

Hopefully Aaron will chime in on this.

Grand_hustle17

iTrader: (22)

i agree with you somewhat, and to each its own, i love the drag strip, good way for me to show how my money was spent, seeing that most of my daily sriving is spent with cruise control on at 70mph, but i do get what ur saying though

Rochester

iTrader: (3)

The only time I ever use cruise control is when I hit the horn and cruise control turns on accidentally. Can't say as I've ever intentionally given up control of the car.

I'm just saying.

Rochester

iTrader: (3)

"read vacuum"? Um, yeah I'm kind of skeptical about that.

Maybe we'll get something informative here in the next few days. By my way of thinking, if I'm going to run with a VIAS-delete, and that canister can also be deleted... then bye bye big ugly canister.

Grand_hustle17

iTrader: (22)

i dont enjoy my ride to work, dont really care at that point, just get there and get out, no performance useage for me, you'd never know my car is modded when i go to work, ppl drivin by me, modded car that i know i can beat fakin on me, time and place for everything, and at 7:30 in the morning, i dont really care, time for my car to take it easy

Reizy

iTrader: (48)

Knights thinking is right, the canister is there as a reservoir of sorts to supply vacuum to the VIAS. The VIAS opens with the suction provided by the canister via the UIM. The solenoid is there to turn the suction on and off and open the VIAS. You can cap the UIM at the yellow line, pull all the hoses off the solenoid and take the canister out. It serves zero purpose once the VIAS is deleted. The important part is leaving the solenoid and its electrical connector plugged in. It will still receive the signal from the ECU and open and close but once you install the block plate its functioning isnt important.

And Scott, the spacers complement the block plate very well. You will gain back some of the low end torque loss. I highly recommend them.

knight_yyz

iTrader: (40)

i wonder if it is a filter as well to stop oil gunking up the solenoid piston

Rochester

iTrader: (3)

If that were true, then it would have to be a "lifetime" filter.

I don't know without gutting it, but I'm thinking the VIAS needs vacuum pressure at an exact constant in order to be accurately controlled. That canister might be a pressure reservoir. Otherwise, pressure is variable based on engine speed.

Scottwax

iTrader: (8)

Spacers are planned when I change plugs and the rear valve cover.

knight_yyz

iTrader: (40)

The canister might be a pneumatic accumulator. According to Courtesy parts website the item is called Tank Assy-Pressure. so I would hazard a guess that it is there to make sure the VIAS has the required pressure to operate when the solenoid is tripped.

And according to nissan it is a part meant to the last the life of the car. When mine broke during the deer incident the only canister available according to Nissan Canada was in Vancouver BC. They said I was probably the first on to order one.

Rochester

iTrader: (3)

This info today from NWP Engineering. Note the "extra vacuum caps" comment.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Rochester

iTrader: (3)

Here, I updated the photo with pretty straight-forward captions.

Scottwax

iTrader: (8)

Thanks for the information. Cannister will go away.

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

You don't really need extra vacuum caps to cap both orifices on the solenoid. But it will prevent debris from getting in there. The important thing is that you do not have any intake leaks by capping off the orifice on the intake manifold itself. And leave the electrical connector plugged in on the solenoid and you'll be fine.

Ghost_54

iTrader: (13)

Well I will say first that the guys up here in the Toronto area really are blessed to have such a strong Maxima Enthusiast who is very performance driven and a craftsman in his own right, Ray (knight_yyz) has always been here pushing the bench mark and delivering quality in his work.

This latest install mod has been a very pleasant surprise, the car just fly's through the RPM's and truly delivers some very impressive torque from 3000 rpm plus. Now some have mentioned some loss on the low end torque, I just don't feel any loss at all, I am trying to understand what may be the difference with my car vs the other guys. So i'll start with some of my other mods to see if you guys come to the same conclusion as I am getting to.
1. I have installed ES bushings on both the front and rear motor mounts, so really no wheel spin all power is direct to the ground on take off.
2. I have a custom (berk) knock off short ram, with a BPI velocity stack and the over sized air filter.
3. I removed the accordion coupler at the IM and replaced it with a proper silicon couplers.
4. I have the 17* advance on the timing which assists greatly in returning some of the low end torgue (and improves middle and upper end torque) with the install of a short air ram.

So I am leaning very strongly to the combination of the other mods as to why I don't see any low end loss. ok enough of my thoughts on the way and now for the fun stuff.
I am blown away by the get and go, mid range 3000 up is just a gas the pull I felt was fantastic until I hit 4500 through 6400 I felt even more pull not to mention that the roar of a VQ is simply awesome ... yeeha get out of my way I coming through.

I am trying to put a couple of short videos together for others to see and experience the feeling of such a simple mod and inexpensive. Stand still launch to wot - a rolling punch up to wot from a mid range cruising speed - and perhaps one more when driving at hwy speed (up here 100kmph) and then a punch it through to upper end of the rpm, of course picking the right time and place are key.

Scott mentioned in one of his posts that he has a particular hill (I assume it is a strong up hill grade) we have one very local here, which is the hwy 6 up hill grade up the escarpment, I travel on it most every morning well I must say ...wow do I ever get some mean *** pull going up this thing (perhaps a video of this would be a nice addition). In the spring it will be time (well probably way past time) to replace the spark plugs which I am hoping to also install NWP spacers (well actually I am hoping to get Ray to do the install) this should make a very nice addition to the overall performance of the engine and doing what one can to improve the the breathing of the engine so it can produce all that it can given the bolt on's that have been added.

To sum up, this is one fantastic little mod that delivers

Rochester

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for writing that down, Jim. I was hoping we'd here from you about Knight's custom VIAS-delete sometime soon, and you didn't disappoint. In fact, that might be the longest post you've ever written! Very cool.

I have to say, I'm pretty surprised so many people are claiming a welcome improvement in the upper range with (primarily) intake & exhaust mods; in other words, without the phenolic spacers.

From what I understand, the low-end loss is so minimal. You might not be feeling it because you've got that extra snap from the solid poly mount bushings. And let's remember, it's cold out now, so we're all pulling a little stronger; (at least, those of us up North.)

"the roar of the VQ" -- are you saying you noticed a audible change? What would that be? Decibels or tone?

Of course we'd want to watch your videos!

So... spacers next Spring? You're gonna love them.

knight_yyz

iTrader: (40)

Jim's running a hybrid setup with only a 4" "berk style" short ram and a BPI velocity stack, so the volume and tone is pretty unique on his car. That and no resonator on the exhaust.

Scottwax

iTrader: (8)

Snowed this morning in the Dallas area. Caught the weather guessers (and everyone else) by surprise! Another chance of it on Friday morning.

spock

iTrader: (5)

Wow! It's raining here right now in,(north of), Toronto and around 40 degrees. Grass is still green. It's all about to come to an end though. This weekend is supposed to be sunny but 30. Calling for snow next week.
I recieved my NWP plate but not sure if I'm going to install it in the cold. I'm doing an oil change this weekend, so I'll see how cold my fingers get doing that. Glad to hear another positive review from Ghost.

perkman87

iTrader: (6)

Okay ladies and Gents.

Install of NWP spacers........

My review is OMFG best bang for your buck. It whistles and makes the motor sound totally different.

As for Butt Dyno- Totally different car it pulls and pulls especially on the highway wow.


IT took 2 hours for install used the 1 minute rtv goop and it works quite well


ON a side not I did notice oil in my top right rear spark plug area!!! so i guess Its time for the gasket and 04 swap.

But best mod for the money

Good job Aaron!!