StillenMax80x20

iTrader: (3)

2000 max, new battery(1-2 yrs) runs fine. that is for now. SES light has been on but now the battery indicator light just turned on.

A strange occurrence also is the e-brake light is on but if i pull the ebrake up the light seems to get brighter

Volt meter readings indicate for sure there is no charging, 12.3-12.5v (depending on where i connect the positive terminal and negative terminal)when off and it reads 11.9v when running.

My question is: Is it DEFINITELY the alternator, or could it be another (preferably cheaper) part? Also is there a practiced method for testing?

SoulEater

iTrader: (7)

Take your alternator to autozones. they will test it for free

phxgold

iTrader: (5)

i just replaced a good one with an excessive amperage HOA will sell you mine for $50+shipping only got 40k miles on it

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Your alternator is bad. If you can wait the couple of days shipping time, PHXGOLD is offering you a great deal because quality rebuilt alternators are $150 and up.

scmaxima

yea man, but itll cost like 135 or something
pretyy expensive ugh

StillenMax80x20

iTrader: (3)

yeah, well... i don't wanna have to do this again, thanks but i think ill spend a few more bucks for one with a warranty.

NEW PROBLEM

I snapped the head off one of the bolts.

and it's the one on the bottom of the ac compressor, behind a pipe. the only bolt that has short clearance from the return line of coolant, (may not be the return, not to sure)

all the other bolts came off easily, this one twisted then snapped.

So what can I do with limited tools?

fflint_18

I have an 02. I think mine has been acting flaky lately.

Looking at Courtesy I think they are the same for all years. If someone can confirm I'll give you the $50 plus shipping ot NJ 08053.

Lete me know.

Thanks.

Update:: Now I'm not so sure. It looks like the 3.0 and the 3.5's are different. Can't be sure.

phxgold

iTrader: (5)

give dave B a call at southpoint nissan and check with him I believe its the same bracket and the stock for the 3.5 is 125 amps vs the 3.0 which is 110 amps if im not mistaken so if it fits (which i think it will) you are getting an upgrade.
after talking to dave b hit me up in a pm if your interested.

Tippy Toes

iTrader: (6)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-I...Q5fAccessories

if not hit up dave b

StillenMax80x20

iTrader: (3)

StillenMax80x20

iTrader: (3)

in case anyone was actually interested, Only AFTER removing the (completely worn) belt was I able to free the compressor by using a screwdriver and rubber mallet on one side, and a crow bar on the rusted bolt side with missing head. I then slid the ac comp halfway down the bolt (as far as i could) which was just enough to fit a monkey wrench in there and was able to turn out the screw all the way!

blurry pics



below you can see the bolt still stuck in the compressor mounting bracket. the snapped end is in the three sided compressor sleeve.

StillenMax80x20

iTrader: (3)

how the hell do you get the alternator out? all bolts are off and it is loose, but something is blocking it from getting out, i had to remove all kinds of crap, and break part of the fan shroud... did i miss something?

do you remove it from the top or the bottom? there is no way I am gonna get the new one in right

phxgold

iTrader: (5)

Jack up the right front wheel and place the car on jack stands. Remove the wheel and the inspection plate behind it. Loosen the nut in the center of the belt tensioner and then back off the tension using the tension adjuster from the top of the engine. Undo the belt and unbolt the tensioner itself and remove it to get it out of the way. Unbolt the A/C compressor (4 bolts), but DON'T undo the A/C hose or clutch wire - just let it hang down out of the way. Remove the ground wire from the battery. Undo the bracket that holds the top of the alternator in place and remove it. Unbolt the positive cable from the alternator and unplug the wires to the voltage regulator (squeeze and gently pull it out - don't break it). Now the hard part - you have to reach the head of the bolt holding the alternator on with a 14mm box end wrench and back it out. There's not much room here, but it can be done. Pull the bolt out with your fingers (oh by the way, you can't see what your doing you have to work by feel). Now the alternator can be dropped out the bottom past the A/C compressor. Installation is the reverse procedure. One tip - when you try to put that stupid bolt back in that stupid place where you can't see, all the while trying to hold the new alternator into position with one hand and shove the bolt back in with the other, you're going to find it hard to get everything lined up so the bolt will go back in. What I did that helped was to take a small bolt and place it in from the other end so the alt. would hang on it temporarily until I could get the bolt lined up and inserted. Also if you have a tapered steel rod of some kind it helps line up the holes (I used a nail set). Good luck and expect skinned knuckles.

StillenMax80x20

iTrader: (3)

haha, indeed, a stupid bolt in a stupid place.

thanks for the tip.

I had no trouble with any bolt except bottom driver's side ac-comp bolt.
The worst thing to do was to remove the alternator from the engine bay. I shredded my knuckles, the fan shroud and the old alternator. I can see why some people drained the coolant and removed radiator, would have made things 10x easier despite all the extra work.

Here is another tip for anyone who is going to try this: Get a set of ramps, it makes this job a lot easier, the bolts underneath (above the plastic shroud which you remove in 1 minute) all bolts are exposed and easy to reach. still have to take off compressor, but you can see all the bolts easily.