Which of these can be done in the driveway?
#1
Which of these can be done in the driveway?
The local Nissan dealer gave me a list of things that need to be addressed. I'd like to know which can be done in the driveway.
Steering rack starting to leak ($1411.91)
High pressure P/S hose starting to leak ($377.68)
Trans flush ($169.95)
Belts starting to crack ($159.)
105K svc w/plugs ($448.82)
Brake flush ($129.95)
Left side wheel bearing bad ($540.36)
Right side front window motor ($463.31)
I know some things I can probably do myself, like belts and plugs. The question then is, how difficult is it to change the belts and plugs?
I saw in another thread the P/S hose can be done, but it's a PITA.
Trans flush? I can't "flush" the trans, but I suppose I can drain it and refill it, right? Same with brakes?
I guess I can do any of the above in the driveway. So the real issue is how much of a PITA is each one of them? What are the known issues when doing them?
Thanks.
Steering rack starting to leak ($1411.91)
High pressure P/S hose starting to leak ($377.68)
Trans flush ($169.95)
Belts starting to crack ($159.)
105K svc w/plugs ($448.82)
Brake flush ($129.95)
Left side wheel bearing bad ($540.36)
Right side front window motor ($463.31)
I know some things I can probably do myself, like belts and plugs. The question then is, how difficult is it to change the belts and plugs?
I saw in another thread the P/S hose can be done, but it's a PITA.
Trans flush? I can't "flush" the trans, but I suppose I can drain it and refill it, right? Same with brakes?
I guess I can do any of the above in the driveway. So the real issue is how much of a PITA is each one of them? What are the known issues when doing them?
Thanks.
#2
If you are good with and have th enecessary tools everything on the list can be done in the driveway.
The hardest would be the steering rack unless, but it can be done if you have ramps and don't mind being on your back.
You're tigt about teh trans flush. Best you van do is a drain and refill.
Everyting else is doable at home. You can flush the brake system with someone else helping and a pretty cheap kit which you can buy at a local auto store. and there are some good "How To's" on You Tube.
Everything just takes time and patience. There are quite a few "How to's" on the Forum which will help guide you through just about everything.
Start with the easy one like changing the belts.
And remember that a penetrating agent like PB Blaster is you best friend. Before starting anything spray the bolts a few times over a day or 2 to help with loosening them.
Good Luck.
The hardest would be the steering rack unless, but it can be done if you have ramps and don't mind being on your back.
You're tigt about teh trans flush. Best you van do is a drain and refill.
Everyting else is doable at home. You can flush the brake system with someone else helping and a pretty cheap kit which you can buy at a local auto store. and there are some good "How To's" on You Tube.
Everything just takes time and patience. There are quite a few "How to's" on the Forum which will help guide you through just about everything.
Start with the easy one like changing the belts.
And remember that a penetrating agent like PB Blaster is you best friend. Before starting anything spray the bolts a few times over a day or 2 to help with loosening them.
Good Luck.
#5
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Brake fluid absorbs the water in the air and over time breaks down, lowering the boiling point. Not only that, but dirt will find it's way into the system, be it through the seals or otherwise, which can have detrimental affects on the brake pistons and master cylinder. Of course you need to flush your brakes. It takes $10 max to do so and is very easy.
Everything can be done in your driveway, including the steering rack, but you're going to need to buy some tools. Which, for $1400, you can get everything you need and more. You can flush your transmission, you just need to buy more transmission fluid than you need. Search for a write-up on the .org. As a side note, that's quite a bit wrong with a 100k mile car...
Last edited by LA02MAX; 09-07-2009 at 07:29 AM.
#7
If it's a 2003 or 2003 the plugs are tricky because you have to remove the intake manifold, but it is really striaghtforward and there are some great step by step instructions on the org.
Just be sure to buy intake manifold gaskets before starting. And from what I've read on the org it might be a good idea to think about replacing the valve covers while you are there. And valve cover for a 2k4 will fit and are cheaper.
Just be sure to buy intake manifold gaskets before starting. And from what I've read on the org it might be a good idea to think about replacing the valve covers while you are there. And valve cover for a 2k4 will fit and are cheaper.
Last edited by fflint_18; 09-07-2009 at 09:35 AM.
#8
And I just want to say don't listen to this.
Brake fluid absorbs the water in the air and over time breaks down, lowering the boiling point. Not only that, but dirt will find it's way into the system, be it through the seals or otherwise, which can have detrimental affects on the brake pistons and master cylinder. Of course you need to flush your brakes. It takes $10 max to do so and is very easy.
Brake fluid absorbs the water in the air and over time breaks down, lowering the boiling point. Not only that, but dirt will find it's way into the system, be it through the seals or otherwise, which can have detrimental affects on the brake pistons and master cylinder. Of course you need to flush your brakes. It takes $10 max to do so and is very easy.
#9
are you seriously debating the fact that brake fluid needs to be changed?
#11
Is it required to be changed according to Nissan? I'm not debating the cost or how easy it is, I'm asking if it's part of scheduled maintenance. If it were so important, then it would be on the scheduled maintenance, no? I don't show changing brake fluid as a maintenance item in my manual.
#12
Is it required to be changed according to Nissan? I'm not debating the cost or how easy it is, I'm asking if it's part of scheduled maintenance. If it were so important, then it would be on the scheduled maintenance, no? I don't show changing brake fluid as a maintenance item in my manual.
#15
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Study fluid analysis and maybe, just maybe, you'll understand one day. Have fun ruining the seals in your brake system over time, having to replace way more than you would have if you took the 30 minutes and $10 to flush your brakes.
#17
If you want to get as much of the gunk as possible out drain and refill it again a few days later.
#19
When I first got my car and got it checked out at the local dealer, they recommended replacing my b-pipe because I think a hanger had come loose. This amounted to a >$1k quote. I got to talk to the tech that checked out the car and he was cool about it once we were away from the service manager - saying I should just go to a muffler shop & get it welded - which I did for like 20 or 30 bucks. He says that he just has to say those types of things.
In other words, see if there's a simple "fix" before replacing the whole component.
#21
Ummmm.... WHEN should we flush the brake fluid anyway???
But anyways to answer the question, brake fluid like any fluid needs to be changed at some point, like when it breaks down or gets compromised by foreign debris or elements.
Its just I don't know when to change it, haha So far my brake fluid looks clear brown, or at least it looks that way through the container
But anyways to answer the question, brake fluid like any fluid needs to be changed at some point, like when it breaks down or gets compromised by foreign debris or elements.
Its just I don't know when to change it, haha So far my brake fluid looks clear brown, or at least it looks that way through the container
#22
Norm
#23
#24
Ummmm.... WHEN should we flush the brake fluid anyway???
But anyways to answer the question, brake fluid like any fluid needs to be changed at some point, like when it breaks down or gets compromised by foreign debris or elements.
Its just I don't know when to change it, haha So far my brake fluid looks clear brown, or at least it looks that way through the container
But anyways to answer the question, brake fluid like any fluid needs to be changed at some point, like when it breaks down or gets compromised by foreign debris or elements.
Its just I don't know when to change it, haha So far my brake fluid looks clear brown, or at least it looks that way through the container
#25
http://www.popularmechanics.com/how_...46.html?page=2
Tranny flushes are done to prevent "tranny problems". Naturally, I wouldn't recommend a tranny service on a vehicle with over 100k miles that has never ever had one.
Last edited by rroderiques77; 09-09-2009 at 01:52 PM.
#26
Actually, my wife went to the dealer. It's "her" car. "My" car is the Grand National.
They told her the rack needed to be "watched". However, the P/S hose could leave her stranded, according to the Nissan dealer.
I got the plugs. It's a good thing I checked this thread because I didn't know the intake manifold had to be removed.
The manifold - is there an upper and a lower? If so, I'm guessing just the upper needs to be removed.
They told her the rack needed to be "watched". However, the P/S hose could leave her stranded, according to the Nissan dealer.
I got the plugs. It's a good thing I checked this thread because I didn't know the intake manifold had to be removed.
The manifold - is there an upper and a lower? If so, I'm guessing just the upper needs to be removed.
#27
#28
Actually, my wife went to the dealer. It's "her" car. "My" car is the Grand National.
They told her the rack needed to be "watched". However, the P/S hose could leave her stranded, according to the Nissan dealer.
I got the plugs. It's a good thing I checked this thread because I didn't know the intake manifold had to be removed.
The manifold - is there an upper and a lower? If so, I'm guessing just the upper needs to be removed.
They told her the rack needed to be "watched". However, the P/S hose could leave her stranded, according to the Nissan dealer.
I got the plugs. It's a good thing I checked this thread because I didn't know the intake manifold had to be removed.
The manifold - is there an upper and a lower? If so, I'm guessing just the upper needs to be removed.
#29
Oh really. I guess these guys have no clue what they're talking about
http://www.popularmechanics.com/how_...46.html?page=2
How do you expect to get the fluid out of the torque converter by only doing a "drain and fill"
Tranny flushes are done to prevent "tranny problems". Naturally, I wouldn't recommend a tranny service on a vehicle with over 100k miles that has never ever had one.
http://www.popularmechanics.com/how_...46.html?page=2
How do you expect to get the fluid out of the torque converter by only doing a "drain and fill"
Tranny flushes are done to prevent "tranny problems". Naturally, I wouldn't recommend a tranny service on a vehicle with over 100k miles that has never ever had one.
#31
The first time I did mine I used 4 bottles of Mobil 1 synthetic atf and one bottle of lucas tranny conditioner, because about five bottles drained out from what I remember...... After seeing A nice difference in shifts I waited A month and did it again but this time only with mobil syn atf....... about 8 dollars each at autozone but it was the best thing they had so I got it and my original tranny has been good so far... the old fluid was brown and looked bad and I didint know if the original owner ever changed it. had the car for over 20,000 miles so far and its been the best car I ever had....... and the last model built in Japan
#32
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Middleboro/Carver, Ma
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The rack is probably just weeping the tiniest bit at the big nut looking thing on the bottom, it is opposite of where the column shaft goes in, they all do it to some extent, some just appear as if they are greasy in that area, the worst one I've ever seen amounted to nothing more than the most minor drip ever. I'd be curious to see pictures of it, might make for a good laugh. The power steering hose leak is quite possibly the clamp on the pump just needs to be sinched down a little bit, it's hard to get to but not impossible.
You own a grand nat', if you can't handle doing all of the fluids, plugs, & belts on this car- than I am going to revoke your man rights to own such a beautiful car. You can use the FSM on boredmder.com or search/post on here for help.
The wheel bearing is the only thing I might recommend bringing somewhere, even if you don't you will need to bring the knuckle somewhere to get the bearing pressed out and then to an alignment shop.
Oh, and I'm very suprised that Nissan dealership didn't recommend an **** lube service first.
You own a grand nat', if you can't handle doing all of the fluids, plugs, & belts on this car- than I am going to revoke your man rights to own such a beautiful car. You can use the FSM on boredmder.com or search/post on here for help.
The wheel bearing is the only thing I might recommend bringing somewhere, even if you don't you will need to bring the knuckle somewhere to get the bearing pressed out and then to an alignment shop.
Oh, and I'm very suprised that Nissan dealership didn't recommend an **** lube service first.
#33
If you want to do a more complete change than a drain and refill. Perform a drain and refill to change the fluid in the pan.
The fluid in the pan goes through the transmission, into the radiator (which is why there are different radiators for manual/automatic) and back to the pan.
To get the fluid not in pan, immediately follow drain/refill with this process.
Disconnect the tranny fluid return line for the radiator. Have a friend start the car and let a quart of fluid come out. Turn off car and add a quart. Repeat about 7 times. This will remove the fluid in the system (torque converter....).You will see the fluid coming out look like new fluid.
Reconnect the line, check fluid level using the stick.
I would not suggest doing this to old transmission or ones that have been neglected. I did this procedure to a 2002 maxima that had 25k on it. It has 70k miles on now and I only do drain refill (mainly because it is quick an easy). I did the full exchange because I switched to synthetic ATF.
This process will exchange all your ATF fluid with synthetic for half the cost of the dealer doing a drain/refill with regular ATF.
The fluid in the pan goes through the transmission, into the radiator (which is why there are different radiators for manual/automatic) and back to the pan.
To get the fluid not in pan, immediately follow drain/refill with this process.
Disconnect the tranny fluid return line for the radiator. Have a friend start the car and let a quart of fluid come out. Turn off car and add a quart. Repeat about 7 times. This will remove the fluid in the system (torque converter....).You will see the fluid coming out look like new fluid.
Reconnect the line, check fluid level using the stick.
I would not suggest doing this to old transmission or ones that have been neglected. I did this procedure to a 2002 maxima that had 25k on it. It has 70k miles on now and I only do drain refill (mainly because it is quick an easy). I did the full exchange because I switched to synthetic ATF.
This process will exchange all your ATF fluid with synthetic for half the cost of the dealer doing a drain/refill with regular ATF.
#34
Two more suggestions..
Change the plugs yourself - the instructions are in the owners manual. You may need to buy a spark plug socket - or borrow a friends.
Brake flush - The popular mechanic website mentioned above is a good technique.
You may also want to use the "turkey baster" method for your Power steering fluid. Every few months I will suck out the fluid from the power steering reservoir (using the syringe the dentist gives you when he pulls your wisdom teeth) and dump in some fresh ATF (most Maxima's have the proper fluid listed on the cap - or in the manual).
Change the plugs yourself - the instructions are in the owners manual. You may need to buy a spark plug socket - or borrow a friends.
Brake flush - The popular mechanic website mentioned above is a good technique.
You may also want to use the "turkey baster" method for your Power steering fluid. Every few months I will suck out the fluid from the power steering reservoir (using the syringe the dentist gives you when he pulls your wisdom teeth) and dump in some fresh ATF (most Maxima's have the proper fluid listed on the cap - or in the manual).
#35
One more - the power steering hose - I replaced it with one from Checker for about $100. It was only 2 bolts, but they were tough to get too. I think I spent an hour trying to get the upper bolt in. It is a big bold so I thought it would be easy. I even had my girlfriend try because she has smaller hands.
It was so frustrating (plus Checker sold me the wrong hose the first time). So the '2 bolt" project took the whole afternoon! But that was a 94 maxima. I had the mechanic replace the hose on our 00 maxima - can't remember what he charged or why I didn't do it myself.
It was so frustrating (plus Checker sold me the wrong hose the first time). So the '2 bolt" project took the whole afternoon! But that was a 94 maxima. I had the mechanic replace the hose on our 00 maxima - can't remember what he charged or why I didn't do it myself.
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