I haven't been around this forum much. My wife's Maxima doesn't really get a whole lot of attention. It's unfortunate because I love the car. My wife has beaten the crap out of her Maxima and I feel bad about it. Since getting the Maxima, we've each gotten a new (additional) car so my wife has stepped up the beatings and even adding the word "beater" into her vocabulary when talking about her Maxima

Anyway, I decided that enough was enough and I was going to do a major overhaul. I purchased the car with just shy of 40,000 miles on it about 5 years ago and she has since run up the clock to 180,000 miles! I don't know what was done prior to our ownership but in our hands nothing major has happened. I think the most major repair was a bad power steering pump and O2 sensors that were all replaced under warranty.

The car was on jackstands from July 25 until August 31. I only worked on the car weeknights for an hour and a half to two hours and some weekends depending on other things going on. It's been like a (major) side job.

I started with what I thought would be the hard part. I tackled the spark plugs and I figured the coil packs could use replacing as well. It seems like there's debate on whether or not you really need to replace the coil packs as well and I can see why with the price. However, I decided to bite the bullet and purchase them. I used the following link to help with pictures in removing the intake manifold:

http://www.greghome.com/Greg%27s%20G...eplacement.htm

I respectfully disagree with the author when it comes to leaving vacuum lines and such attached and setting the manifold aside. It wasn't a HUGE deal to remove the hoses and the two (I think) that had coolant I stuck a paper towel in the end of the tube to try to slow the "bleeding" and I also had a catch can underneath the car anyway. While I had the intake manifold off, I checked the VIAS (all seemed to be working uninhibited) and cleaned any carbon deposits. I also cleaned the throttle body and "flapper" while I was at it.

Next I wanted to change out the belts. The dealer had told my wife 3+ years ago that the belts needed to be replaced and I had purchased belts with the intent of installing them a while back but just never got around to it. The main belt was easy. The power steering belt was a total PITA! I've done ps belts on other Nissans that are similar in that they're tight up against the fender so that wasn't so much the issue. The first problem is that the loosening is completely opposite what you would logically think. You'd think tighten would be clockwise and loosen would be counter-clockwise. Well, it's opposite! There's a pin that goes through the top front (toward the front of the car) of the power steering pump that I removed completely. In retrospect that was probably the wrong way to have done it but I did. I got the old belt off and put the new one on. I put the "pin" through, tightened the adjuster and started the car up. The belts sounded like they were squealing so I just figured they needed tightening. I ran the car for 5 minutes and, aside from the squealing, it was good. After shutting the car down, I realized that the power steering belt was rubbing on the tensioner! It was at this point that I realized that the pin that goes through the top/front of the power steering pump actually goes through an ear, through a sleeve in the pump, and then threads into another ear. I had to remove the "locking screw" (I originally resisted removing it completely because I didn't think I'd be able to get my hand up there between the tensioner and the fender to screw it in) on the tensioner to get everything to align and even so it was tough. Turns out that there is a sleeve within the first ear that had come loose and was preventing the power steering pump from going up between the ears. I lined that up, got the locking bolt in, and then tightened it up. All was good.

All the while trying to figure out the belts, I started on the next project. I replaced the stock brake lines with goodridge. "While I was at it" I replaced the rotors as well as pads. I'm using car quest rotors that seem to work better than stock and carbotech bobcat pads that work MUCH better than stock. I ran into a snag when the original rubber line didn't want to loosen from the hard line in one corner. After overcoming that problem, the other rear corner sprung a leak. The connection to the hard line was tight but it was still leaking. After removing it completely and cleaning the threads (they were rusty and dirty) with brake cleaner and a wire brush, I was able to thread it so it didn't leak. Made sure all was tight and bled the brakes until I got new, fresh fluid coming out.

Next I drained down the tranny fluid. No big deal. I put something like 5 quarts back in and it showed too high. I need to drive it around a bit to get the fluid moving around to get a gauge of where I am on the gauge and see if I need to add more fluid.

After this, I replaced the fuel filter. Believe it or not, my dealer wouldn't sell it to me. I sent my wife in and she told me that they said no. I sent her back the next day and told her to just tell them to order it. For the cost of the filter (around $14 I think) I wanted that peace of mind. Plus her gas mileage has been low and I think it'll help. The guy wouldn't sell it to her and argued with me when I got on the phone with him! I had a friend order it using the part number :P This was *REAL* easy using the below link. It was much quicker than I thought it would be. In fact I had only planned on removing the filter one evening and I just decided to go for it and finish up so I wouldn't have to leave the tank open. Took maybe hour and a half:

http://www.shiftice.com/fuel_filter.html

Finally it was on to emissions stuff. She's been getting a check engine light for 2-3 years now. Luckily that doesn't automatically fail you in PA for inspections. I tried fixing the vent control valve (what the check engine was for) a few years ago unsucessfully. After replacing the fuel filter, I ran the car and got four check engine lights. Three were emissions-related and another was 0507 which is an intake leak. I troubleshooted the 0507 like crazy to no avail. I figured I'd drive the car when done and see if it'd go away. The idle seemed normal as did everything else. Now I tried fixing the vent control valve about two years ago. Some (hack) friends helped me out and we had the valve working freely for 2 days or so but then back to not working. To boot, they stripped some bolts and f'ed some other stuff up down below. I went through the FSM troubleshooting all of the various parts starting with the vent control valve which checked out fine when hit with 12 volts. Next I went to the vacuum cut valve. I didn't have a pressure/vacuum pump so I used my mouth. Can I say, I think gasoline gives me heartburn? Anyway, I found the cut valve to be faulty. It was a costly (but surefire) decision and I said "while I'm at it" I might as well replace the control valve just in case, the cut valve that I know is bad, and the canister (because two bolts to hold the control valve into it had snapped off thanks to my two friends!)

I finally got and installed all of the emissions parts last night and started the car up. No check engine lights for ANYTHING. And the car ran great.

In the spare time between all of the other stuff, I cleaned the engine bay. It was filthy. It still is but it's a LOT cleaner than it was. I'm no longer embarassed to pop the hood. I also cleaned the interior. My wife is always eating and drinking in the car and it was a real mess. I steam cleaned the carpets and seats and even removed the seats for better access. The interior isn't perfect but it's a LOT better than what it was. I also replaced all of the dash/gauge cluster and HVAC control light bulbs as some had burnt out. I figured while I had it apart, I "might as well" do them all. I also cleaned the wheels. While the car was on jackstands, I took advantage of having access to ALL of the wheel and I cleaned them. Again, not perfect but WAY better than the way they were previously. I also replaced the air filter and micro-cabin filter.

Tonight I need to go home and charge the battery on my SE-R that is sitting in the driveway in the way of moving the Maxima. After that, I can drive the Maxima around and move the tranny fluid so I can warm it up to know how much more to add. I need to top off power steering fluid and coolant. Lastly, I'll need to bed the brakes and verify that the bleeding did good otherwise we'll need to bleed again.

In the coming weekends the exterior of the car needs a good cleaning too. The wife will be helping me with that. It's white and somehow she always manages to get black tar spots on the car wherever she goes! Oh and I also need to fix her XM radio. For some reason the cigarette lighter adapter is screwed up so I'm just going to tap a permanent power source. It's been a long and tiring month and a half but it's well worth the satisfaction of having done it myself and saving myself a few thousand dollars at the dealership (it was about $1,000 for the parts alone:

- spark plugs
- coil packs
- air filter
- micro-cabin filter
- belts
- rotors
- brake pads
- ss brake lines
- EVAP crap
- light bulbs

Can't wait to drive the car tonight and see what a difference it made. And to see how I helped (or, God forbid) hurt the gas mileage. It better have helped. She was previously getting around 17-20 I can get that in my FX45!!!

 

wow! hard to believe the car made it 180k miles on original plugs, assuming they wern't replaced before you bought them (idk why they're platnium rated to 105k)

but yeah coil packs have been considered non-maintainence by our nissan tech friends here. but i guess it couldn't hurt to replace. 5 quarts for ATF is a bit too much. when i did my drain and fill, i only put back in 4 quarts and it still read full.

 

WOW sounds like a lot of work. I would pretty much guarantee that you can feel and difference with all of those things you fixed. You want to take my car for a month or so and give it an overhaul?

a side note- dont let your wife drive the maxima anymore. It sounds like she gave it a severe beating and you just performed emergency surgery to save its life.

 

I don't think they were replaced:
http://gallery.kieranlavin.com/v/car...02112.JPG.html

I should clarify... I put 5 quarts in and then checked and it was WAY high. I removed an unspecified amount and then ran the car through reverse and drive on jackstands to get the fluid moving and the level dropped. Just took it for a drive and it seems right about normal. I'm going to keep an eye on it

 

It SOUNDS like a lot of work but it's not really. It's just that I took my time and did it in bits and pieces. I've had a love-hate relationship with cars for quite some time. Now that I'm done with the Maxima, I've got stuff to do on two of the other cars (nothing this major) and PLENTY to do around the house! If you pay me, I'll gladly do the same to your car

I have no choice with the wife... it's her car. I just need to point out to her how nice the car is given back to her and make sure she endeavors to take care of it now!

Just got back from it's maiden voyage out of the garage and it feels great. Brakes need to be bedded (and possibly bled again) but it pulls hard and feels great. What a difference!

 

me and my wife have maxima's she has a 93 se with 98k and i have a 2k2(king) but i can relate too without a doubt she just treats it like its a american beater, when it still drives brand new

 

Not trying to high-jack your thread but I just today purchased a 02 max se with 108k fully loaded to the brim for 5500. The loan officer who gave me the cash said the car was worth 8k easy and I got a great deal. The car on start up makes the clatter noise for a sec and goes away, so I am assuming the dealer thought the engine was going bad and was selling it for that cheap. After reading on this board that this was normal I felt safe buying the car any how. While driving home I got a good mile away from the dealer and the ses light comes on so I was like crap car is sold as is so I chalked it up as a loss so far. Get to Autozone to have them checked and they said it was a p0037 and a p01038 bad bank 1 sensor 2 02 which is right under the car, easy fix .

The radio has a problem where the drivers side speakers goes in and out specially when I go over bumps so I hope this is a loose fitting problem. Other than that all is good. My question to you is, is there a way you can tell if you have factory 02 sensors in just by looking.

 

You forgot to replace the maf

 

glad you finally got it done keiran. btw you going to the glenn on 10/1 for the weekend?

Rob

 

Voltage was fine on the maf. That's an EASY fix later on though.

 

Yup, I have that Friday off (Friday is 10/2 by the way) so we'll be arriving sometime Friday later morning/early afternoon and staying through Sunday It's been a while (like 5 years) since I've driven the Glen in my own car so I'm driving the SE-R up probably. POS took nearly 30 minutes of charging via jumpers from the FX to start tonight! It's safely in the garage on the tender now to bring that battery back to life. The Maxima's in the driveway getting "washed" with the rain

 

chris and i are leaving on 10/1 thats why i got the dates confused. i never been to the glenn so it should be fun. we are also staying still sunday. should be a fun weekend, see you there.. what about ray?

 

We're going up together. Is Chris running open track on Friday?

 

enjoyed reading your thread.. glad to see you fixing her up,..just some other ideas that dont cost much if anything... PCV valve-prob bad by now there is ALOT of blowby on these 3.5's,..20 bucks 10 min job... and i would check the tire pressure prob could use a few pounds in each tire.. otherwise good work!

 

i think so, we are taking his ser

 

Yup, forgot about the PCV. There are a few things here and there I'm realizing I overlooked. But at least the car is running and driveable. I told my wife not to drive it today so I can give it a once-over again tonight and tomorrow morning before I let her drive it. I don't need that phone call that she's stranded somewhere because of something stupid. She argued with me until we went out for a quick drive around our neighborhood and she started hearing a noise (which I knew IMMEDIATELY what it was... done it plenty). It was loose lugnuts. I swear I tightened them but guess not. So that proved my point right there.

As for tire pressures, they are low; I know they're low. I have always been pretty good about checking tire pressures in all cars. After not being driven for almost two months, the pressure are definitely low and I went to pump them up with my dinky air compressor and I realized I had unplugged it for the vacuum a few weeks ago. I went to go to the gas station to fill up and found the loose lugnuts. By that time it had started raining and I was too lazy. The compressor is charging now and should be good for filling the tires tonight.

 

Are you kidding?

If she did that to the Maxima, what do you think she's doing to the new car? Sounds like she's driving the G37.......that poor car!

 

She is driving the G. She's taking really good care of it and I'm half expecting she'll take similar care to the Maxima now that it's more "like-new" She's seen all the work that's gone into the car and seems to appreciate it. She is anxious to drive the Maxima again and I'm really hoping she takes better care of it now

 

Forgive my ignorance, but I've been ready lots trying to school myself on my Max and I keep seeing "MAF"....what is MAF? School me! Please.

 

MAF = Mass Air Flow

There's a sensor within the maf (MAF sensor) that helps determine the air/fuel mix in the engine via the ECU. That's the short version. You could also google Nissan MAF or how does a MAF work for more reading:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mass_flow_sensor

 

Thank you!