when I get home, I notice a burning rubber smell and the rim is very very hot on the passenger side of car. I don't notice any leakage or smoke and the car does not pull one way or another. After taking it to the shop they showed me that the the caliper is applying pressure all the time and the slider is not releasing. Charge is $286 for re surfacing the rotors, flush of break fluid and caliper silde service.

Is all that needed?

 

Sounds like to me. I doubt the sliders would need to be replaced, most likely just lubbed properly. I hope that $286 is for resufacing all four rotors, because you can buy all new oem ones for less than that. Did you give them the go-ahead to do the work already? If not I highly suggest you save yourself a couple hundred dollars and just do the job yourself. I used this how-to to help when I did mine: http://www.shiftice.com/brake_install.html

 

No i didnt let them do it. Its just on the passenger side of car.

 

yeah man i would just replace the rotors and grease the sliders b4 i spent 286 bucks on somethin that wont cost anywhere that much to do yourself!!

 

I would love to give that a try but i dont have any of those tools.....I'm going to call around and see if anyone can do it cheaper. I only went there because i have warranty on the break pads...

 

By sliders, you mean the caliper sliding pins?

If so, then do not let the shop charge you so much for the job. The sliders on the maxima are made from a very strong steel. They rarely bend.

If you want to replace them anyway, you can get a "caliper kit" from your local Autozone, Schucks, or Pepboys. The caliper kit comes with new sliding pins, new sliding pin boots, and some other caliper accessories you may want to replace. The kit costs around $10 per wheel.

 

when i replace my rear rotor couple days ago, one of the slider was rusted as well... i need to use a locking piller to get it out and clean rust and relube them... anyway i am going to get a new Dorman caliper bracket (should come with boot and slider) for around 20 bux, then another 20 bux shipping from rockauto, problem solved

 

Notice the small rubber boot or gromet on one of the sliding pins? You can safely remove that. That is often the cause of caliper pin seizing. That boot swells up from heat and pressure, and ultimately grips the sliding pin against the bracket.

 

this is the reason anti-seize was invented

 

Last week I lubed my caliper sliding pins. I had a very hard time trying to push the pins with that rubber sleeve back in the caliper bracket, so I decided to remove the rubber sleeve. Glad to read it is often the cause of seizing, and that it can be safely removed.

 

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Why on forums.maxima.org is there no quick how-to or maybe a photo or two which shows how to remove the slider pins? I'm sure my front right caliper is having issues and the silder pin is to blame. I just want to know what I'm getting into once I start removing things.

 

The slides are probably reversed on that side of the car (well, not for sure, but seen it happen)

That dramatically increases brake friction and the life of your brakes goes in the pisser.

I am sure if your brakes have even half their life left you could just inspect lube, re-install and go (no $ spent)

 

TO do a break job you need to be somewhat mechanically inclined. Not at all a hard job to do. jack up the car, remove the wheel and you can unbolt the caliper from the caliper bracket. If you dont have the tools invest in some. Anyone who wants a somewhat performance car at the least should have a 3/8 socket set and a set of screwdrivers. I dont remember the bolt sizes but a rachet and socket set will get the job done. Once the caliper is off just twist out the sliders from the caliper and clean them. if you have a wire wheel you can clean any rust and junk off them and regrease and install. ALso the spots where the pads rest should get cleaned and greased so the pads can slide easy as well. I agree with the others see if the rotor is warped due to excessive heat. ALso i dont think you need a brake fluid flush. Doing just all that will cost you less than the 286 and you will be on your wayu to building your tool set.

 

Werd to everything above. Undoing two bolts after you pull the wheel off to save a bunch of cash is a no brainer. 15mm, I think (new rotors and pads on today in the rear, sooo nice)

 

Here is a write-up with all the tools you need:

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...n-i-brake.html

Now that I have done the work and regreased the slider pins, the driver's side front wheel no longer is caked in brake dust. Looks just like the other side after several days and 400 miles of driving.

Paid $114 for both front rotors and Pro Stop ceramic brake pads at Pep Boys.

 

Well, it depends where you live I guess. Here in Canada those boots are vital to prevent seizing. If they're damaged water gets in between pin and the bracket, it rusts and then you'd have fun removing them from the bracket only after few months. It had to heat mine with torch once to release them. IIRC both pins have those boots and I never seen them causing seizure.

 

Caution, we are talking about 2 different parts here. One is the rubber boot. The other is the rubber sleeve.

The rubber boot come in 2 per caliper, one for each caliper pin. They are essential no matter the kind of climate environment. They protect the pin from the salt, sand, water, debris, etc.

It looks like this (pic not from a Nissan vehicule)



The rubber sleeve comes in one per caliper. It mounts at the extremity of one of the caliper pin, - I cant remember if it is the upper or the lower pin.
I dont know the functionality of that sleeve. It sems to swell under heat, making the pin difficult to travel, and inducing caliper seizing. I removed that sleeve on my last brake service, to allow easier travel of the caliper pins.

The following pic shows one at the end of a caliper pin ( not a Nissan)

 

Kudos to the post above ^^! Slider pins are integral to the brake system's full function. If they get stuck, it creates excessive high temps, which is no good. Also prematurely wears out the pads and the rotors. It is just bad news if they are not looked at and taken cared of.

 

So you removed the dust boot?
Your brakes won't last very long without that boot. Water, dirt, grime, all kinds of crap will get in, accelerating seizure.,,

 

You're absolutely right - I remember now that I removed my sleeves a while ago. It was actually few years ago so I completely forgot about their existence. I do recall now the pain to get pins back in while keeping sleeve from getting between pin and bracket. Finally it became impossible and I just thrown them out. No problems so far and brake service became much simpler.

 

It is insain to remove the rubber dust boot (my first pic above).

Removing what I call the rubber sleeve ( second pic above, dont know the actual exact term) seems to be ok, as per my experiment, and per what other members have posted here.

 

I had same trouble trying to reinsert the pins into the calipers. The sleeve was slipping back on the larger section of the pin, and/or get in the way.

 

I'm going to make an attempt soon at removing the slide pins to re-grease them, if I have the time and it's not too bad I'll grab some photos.