Rochester

iTrader: (3)

Guys, I don't understand any of that except that you're trying to identify the IAT wire/sensor as a stand-alone part, right? If I could Radio Shack the IAT sensor all by itself, that makes buying a 2001 MAF a reasonable precautionary purchase, because I wouldn't have to cannibalize the original MAF.

I'm surprised someone here hasn't made a side business out of supplying upgraded $90 MAF's to 5.5 Gen'ers. That thermistor is all of 0.69 cents. (Or according to Nissan, a full $300. )

So... do you know for sure what that part is exactly?

2Slow, where are you on this?

2slow

iTrader: (6)

You are exactly correct. If we can identify the thermistor as a commercially available part, it could be made readily available. This would lower the risk of a conversion, as you mentioned.

I was thinking more socially where someone would by in quantity and resell the thermistors for less than the shipped cost from an electronics supply house. Individuals will end up paying ~$0.7 for the part and ~$7 for shipping from a supplier, but could pay someone $2.50 for the part, an envelope and a stamp.

I think I know, and will confirm once I test the thermistor I ordered, but haven't received.

I'm just a guy with a multimeter that doesn't want to destroy my sub-optimal, but still functional MAF in the quest to resolve my Maxima's driveability issues. I also get to increase my post count. Would you like a glamour photo?

Rochester

iTrader: (3)

Sure! What you got?

But seriously, thanks, 2slow. Keep up the good work, and keep us informed.

We're on the same page here: "...doesn't want to destroy my sub-optimal, but still functional MAF in the quest to resolve my Maxima's driveability issues."

2slow

iTrader: (6)

I'll update this thread with my findings; hopefully within the next few days.

2slow

iTrader: (6)

Preliminary report:

The new thermistor is a larger size than that of the original MAF. I have no idea of the original thermistors size as I cannot find common ones smaller than DO-35.

The new thermistor measured a little different from original. About 0.35 kilo-ohm different at at near freezing temperatures. Using a scan tool post installation, the new thermistor measured 4 degree Celsius less than the original at room temperature.

Overall, cold start driveability seems unaffected by the new thermistor and the hesitation at ~3800 rpm and throttle application above 50% is gone.

I will update this thread with more long term findings (greater than one days worth), a few more measurements and pictures in a week or two.

Rochester

iTrader: (3)

Very good progress, 2slow. 4 Celsius is a pretty big difference, but if it doesn't throw anything off, don't care, right?

Impressive work. I'm looking forward to your long-term findings.

mist max2000

iTrader: (16)

measuring slightly colder air then whats comming in *might* not be a bad thing

looking forward to see some long'er' term results/findings

2slow

iTrader: (6)

Lower IAT should increase the cold start enrichment (more fuel), which will likely not significant affect driveability (although emissions will go up). I can't think of other ways which the IAT values can affect the controller's logic; anyone have any thoughts?

I must recheck the IAT values between the thermistors with another scan tool as the one used has issues with ISO9141 vehicles.

EDIT: the car also seems to make a little more power (maybe 10 hp) with disappearance of the driveability fault. Dyno chart showing fault (I think):

ColtMax

Excellent write up ridinwitha35 ! I Just Received my 2000-2001 Maf (22680-2Y001) from Conicelli. Their price was 77.69$ !! I ordered a bunch of other parts using this site for Part Numbers: (http://nissan4u.com/parts/). They ship fast and service is great.

Thank you again for those awesome pictures! Ill be heading out to the garage in a minute and swap this thing in no time!

Rochester

iTrader: (3)

You 5.5 gen 6MT is your "winter beater"? Oh man, that's cold.

Why are you swapping the MAF? Is this a precautionary measure, or has it failed?

ColtMax

Actually the Max has become my primary vehicule during the summer. The colt is a bit too much for daily drive now.

As for the Maf swap, I had the very good idea of cleaning my K$N and re-oil it just before leaving to work....

Since then, gas mileage was horrible. I don't think it was worth the hassle of cleaning it when this swap is so easy and cheap.

Swap is done by the way. The car started just fine, but it was bogging severely when trying to raise the rpm. I let it sit at idle for a few minutes. I could tell the maf was not returning what the ecu was expecting, it smelled a lot richer than usual on start up and then started to performe some adjustments on its own, the idle was changing. Everything got fine within 5 minutes. Once the engine reached normal operating temperature I have reset the ECU with the gas pedal sequence procedure. Ill get to drive it a bit more today and will let you know.

ridinwitha35

iTrader: (1)

Interesting. Circumference-wise, was the size the same? Now that I think about it, DO-35 might seem to be a little longer. But we know as long as it performs similarly electrically, and if it still fits, it should be alright.

Is this with the same MAF + new thermistor? Or new MAF & thermistor?

This concerns me...interested in seeing how it plays out. Might have to do an idle relearn, but if it's bogging when giving it gas, I'd make sure everything is connected back up & double check the p/n of what you received. If you have an OBD scan tool, looking at the MAF measurements might be of use.

2slow

iTrader: (6)

The DO-35 thermistor is larger in both dimensions (diameter & length). The original thermistor looks like a 7/10 scale DO-35 package.


My observations thus far are with the new MAF (22680-2Y001) and new thermistor against the original MAF (22680-6N201). Also notable, I did not perform any learning procedures after the replacement.


I'll be curious to hear your findings. Perhaps a leak after the MAF; unmetered airflow?

ColtMax

Ok I guess I've been misunderstood. The car only bogged for the very few seconds after startup. The only explaination I have is that the fuel trims were out of wack due to the old maf having an erratic reading. Now the car act as normal and even better.

I can feel a lot more power in the low range of RPM's. The usual miss at around 3000 rpm when flooring it has disapeared. Idle is smoother.
Gas mileage will be measured over christmas holiday.

Best mod I've done so far on the Max!

ridinwitha35

iTrader: (1)

Great to hear. I'd be pissed if I put a new MAF in & the car acted worse!

mandyfig

Now, pics would really, really help!

Rochester

iTrader: (3)

Pics of what? Did you not see the 2 dozen or so detailed images throughout this thread?

2slow

iTrader: (6)

So far, so good; the Maxima continues to drive great.

Additional scan tool measurements must wait until next week and pictures of the new thermistor will be available in a few days.

mandyfig

Those pics? Oh yeah...it is automatic to ask for more pics. He is going to post some more....the more the merrier!

ridinwitha35

iTrader: (1)

I apologize, I'll take 10x more pics next time, lol.

...unless you're talking about the thermistor?

maxximaa

iTrader: (10)

could this be the fix to "extremely" horrible gas mileage that i'm getting?

i used to get 9.9L/100km during summer of 2008.

now it's like 12.xL/100km!!

2slow

iTrader: (6)

Winter fuel composition adjustments will cause a reduction in fuel economy. Also, if you now have E10 (10% ethanol fuel) but had no ethanol in '08, there will be another fuel economy reduction in your comparison.

Does your Maxima show fuel economy as liters per 100 kilometers?

Prophecy99

iTrader: (1)

Great thread. Thanks to all for their work. Gotta love the org.

Has any one confirmed this?

2slow

iTrader: (6)

Napa's online picture doesn't show a thermistor, but that isn't conclusive evidence.

Rochester

iTrader: (3)

They also don't show a screen in the MAF housing.

This probably isn't an item your local NAPA store would stock, so you'd have to order it. And I guess you'd need to clear with them up front that if it doesn't come set up for the 5.5 gen, then you're going to refuse purchase.

[edit] I just did a zipcode search for NAPA. They're all rural locations 15-25 miles away. Hmm.

maxximaa

iTrader: (10)

ya, L/100KM coz im from Canada.

i use shell premium. the car seems to be drinking more fuel than before

mandyfig

I am getting only 18 MPG on my 00 Max. Have been contemplating on changing the MAF or at least clean it with MWF. What year will I need to get from the dealer or fleabay?

mandyfig

Conicelli....please give details...thanks.

ridinwitha35

iTrader: (1)

Here's the rundown:

If you have a 5.5gen and want to spend $400+ and be done, get the 22680-AM600

All else, get the 22680-2Y001, but note that on a 5.5gen, "installation" will take a couple minutes longer since you swap over a part off the old MAF.

mandyfig

2000 Max is a 5th GEN, right? 5.5 starts with 2001?

Rochester

iTrader: (3)

Yes. No. And oh my god you've got to be kidding.

ridinwitha35

iTrader: (1)

5th Gen: 2000-2001 Max & I30 [VQ30DE-K]
5.5 Gen: 2002-2003 Max, 2002-2004 I35 [VQ35DE]

The swapping procedure is not necessary on 5th gens, but MAF removal might be the same, but don't quote me on that.

I always laugh to myself when I hear people saying things along those lines. I know this site is for "Maxima enthusiasts" but to me, eh, it's just the car I drive.

Rochester

iTrader: (3)

That's OK, man. If you're not feeling it, at least you're here on the Org, so there's hope for you yet.

ridinwitha35

iTrader: (1)

I don't wanna get too OT, but I'm not really into cars...I just like trying to fix stuff & figure things out. Though this MAF stuff is really simple, sometimes I feel like I need to know every single bit of info about a procedure before actually going out & tackling it, thanks to being in a technical industry. But working on cars has taught me it's less about that & that it takes more spontaneous improvisation & ingenuity to solve 'the problem', which you can only get through experience.

So, I'm more about fixing than modding; kind of explains why my sig is about stuff I fixed/need-to-fix vs. a list of mods & aesthetic improvements. But it's all good, though I may not be a "Maxima enthusiast", I'm enthusiastic about being able to fix my Maxima...er, I35.

Rochester

iTrader: (3)

^^^
Winky means you're being teased with friendly intent.

Wheelie King

iTrader: (19)

^^^^
Get a room.

2slow

iTrader: (6)

Pictures of new versus old; 2k1 (22680-2Y001) left and early 2k2 (22680-6N201) right.



Close up of new thermistor soldered in place.

jeff5347

ok so let me get this straight.. i just wanrt to be 100% sure.

if my max has a hesitation at around 3500-4000 anf then all of the sudden returns and i only feel this in 3rd gear.. not sure if 4th also but dont feel it in 1st or 2nd. all we need to do is get the 2001 maf sensor, take our 5.5 or in my case 03 sensor, remove the thermister and transfer it to the new (read:just bought) 2001 sensor, reinstall and have a nice day... and the hesitation should be gone. am i correct in this thinking..?

Rochester

iTrader: (3)

Only if your hesitation is caused by a malfunctioning MAF. But you got the mechanics right.

What's with the politics in your sig? Pissing off thin skinned liberals and stroking the crazy with candy. I don't get it.

jeff5347

ive read the hesitation can be from the coils as well, but it seems everyone that has this hesitation changes the maf and the problem disappears. how would you deciefer bewtween the two on which one is wrong.

the sig.. i believe he is trying to turn our country into another ussr where if you have money and arent relying on the government that you should help out the less fortunate.. read: people who sit on there lazy a$$ to recieve checks from the goverment, welfare and unemployment..basically tax you and as well as trying to take away our civil rights and freedoms. But thats for a whole different post over at the off topics area. http://www.americanthinker.com/2009/...ia_1.html:eek: