2k2 to 2k1 MAF swap with pictures
05-25-2010, 01:05 PM
#121
One of the best lessons learned on the Org
I did this swap today. It didn't address my low-end pinging, but it did buy me some peace of mind for a part that's destined to fail on our cars. Bought a 2001 MAF at my local dealership for $95 + tax. Then I soldered on the thermistor 2slow sent me last year, as the new IAT. I left the original MAF housing alone because the screen was whistle-clean. So all I had to do then was swap out the MAF. Total plug-n-play. No CEL, no problem.
And my original MAF was identical in form-factor to the replacement. The only difference was that the replacement didn't have this little thermistor (IAT Sensor). Oh, and it didn't cost over $400. You gotta love that.
Very well done, OP. Every member who reads this thread, and follows through, will save themselves over $300. Sweet!
And my original MAF was identical in form-factor to the replacement. The only difference was that the replacement didn't have this little thermistor (IAT Sensor). Oh, and it didn't cost over $400. You gotta love that.
Very well done, OP. Every member who reads this thread, and follows through, will save themselves over $300. Sweet!
07-13-2010, 03:08 AM
#123
This looks like a fun thing to try this week and hey getting this done might correct a problem I been putting up with!
Crazy funny:
06/2001-12/2001 3.5L
Price: $442
VQ30DE only
22680 - 2000-2001 3.0L Also fits worldwide nissan and infiniti that require 22680-AD200 or 22680-AD201 or 22680-AD20A.
Price: $87.01
Crazy funny:
06/2001-12/2001 3.5L
Price: $442
VQ30DE only
22680 - 2000-2001 3.0L Also fits worldwide nissan and infiniti that require 22680-AD200 or 22680-AD201 or 22680-AD20A.
Price: $87.01
02 or 03
08-13-2010, 07:13 PM
#126
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 311
I did this swap today. It didn't address my low-end pinging, but it did buy me some peace of mind for a part that's destined to fail on our cars. Bought a 2001 MAF at my local dealership for $95 + tax. Then I soldered on the thermistor 2slow sent me last year, as the new IAT. I left the original MAF housing alone because the screen was whistle-clean. So all I had to do then was swap out the MAF. Total plug-n-play. No CEL, no problem.
And my original MAF was identical in form-factor to the replacement. The only difference was that the replacement didn't have this little thermistor (IAT Sensor). Oh, and it didn't cost over $400. You gotta love that.
Very well done, OP. Every member who reads this thread, and follows through, will save themselves over $300. Sweet!
And my original MAF was identical in form-factor to the replacement. The only difference was that the replacement didn't have this little thermistor (IAT Sensor). Oh, and it didn't cost over $400. You gotta love that.
Very well done, OP. Every member who reads this thread, and follows through, will save themselves over $300. Sweet!
Now 2 things:
a) Is it a must that you must secure the thermistor in place by soldering or some other way, is it not enough by closing/squeezing the metal clips?
b) If you do solder it in place, then if it goes again, then you are done? well I guess you can unsolder...?
08-13-2010, 07:16 PM
#127
My maf just went on me so I might try this.
Now 2 things:
a) Is it a must that you must secure the thermistor in place by soldering or some other way, is it not enough by closing/squeezing the metal clips?
b) If you do solder it in place, then if it goes again, then you are done? well I guess you can unsolder...?
Now 2 things:
a) Is it a must that you must secure the thermistor in place by soldering or some other way, is it not enough by closing/squeezing the metal clips?
b) If you do solder it in place, then if it goes again, then you are done? well I guess you can unsolder...?
Last edited by NmexMAX; 08-13-2010 at 07:23 PM.
08-13-2010, 08:22 PM
#128
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 311
08-13-2010, 08:25 PM
#130
Yup.
08-13-2010, 08:34 PM
#131
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 311
Only thing is where the thermistor was being pinched by the metal stays, it looks as if its a bit thinner. I don't know I mean I know probably about 95% of you have done it successfully but something about having that thermistor coming loose and going in my engine that I don't like. I might spend the money this time. Defenitely not from the dealer though. A remanufactured unit that is...
08-13-2010, 08:39 PM
#132
I don't know I mean I know probably about 95% of you have done it successfully but something about having that thermistor coming loose and going in my engine that I don't like. I might spend the money this time. Defenitely not from the dealer though. A remanufactured unit that is...
Well then, you know what you do...? Solder it.
08-13-2010, 08:50 PM
#134
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 311
More work. Can't have everything I guess...
08-13-2010, 08:55 PM
#135
08-13-2010, 09:32 PM
#136
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 311
Actually taking it out it's not the big deal for me.
Honestly soldering is. I can solder (I think) but when it comes to smaller things like this, my solders just don't come out good. So if the solder doesn't stick or comes loose because of my great soldering skills then ultimately for me it's not worth it. Of course this is a pesonal problem between my and solder
08-13-2010, 09:57 PM
#137
If I took my MAF out and showed you a macro photo of the swap, it wouldn't be pretty. But it works. Of that I'm 100% confident.
C'mon, man. You can do this. Don't over analyze the thing.
08-13-2010, 11:36 PM
#138
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 311
Oh, me too. I pretty much butchered the IAT connection points because I have zero soldering skills. But it doesn't matter as long as the wire is crimped down, and the solder is melted over the wire and the clip.
If I took my MAF out and showed you a macro photo of the swap, it wouldn't be pretty. But it works. Of that I'm 100% confident.
C'mon, man. You can do this. Don't over analyze the thing.
If I took my MAF out and showed you a macro photo of the swap, it wouldn't be pretty. But it works. Of that I'm 100% confident.
C'mon, man. You can do this. Don't over analyze the thing.
thanks!
08-14-2010, 06:33 AM
#139
Just a little tip on the soldering.use a thin knife to open up the metal clips on the new MAF the apply a tiny amount of flux on the clips after you seat the old IAT to the new maf and squeezed the clips closed the flux will help the solder flow and form a good joint.Use electronics 60/40 solder not the stuff for plumbing.when you goto apply the heat place the soldering iron flat edge against the flat side of the clips and apply solder after about 20 seconds apply the solder directly to the connection of the wire and the clip you do not have to create a large solder ball on there.the last thing i would do is use a the same knife and hold where the bend on the IAT meets the new plastic and just touch it with the soldering iron to melt it in place like the factory did.
08-14-2010, 07:08 AM
#140
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 311
Just a little tip on the soldering.use a thin knife to open up the metal clips on the new MAF the apply a tiny amount of flux on the clips after you seat the old IAT to the new maf and squeezed the clips closed the flux will help the solder flow and form a good joint.Use electronics 60/40 solder not the stuff for plumbing.when you goto apply the heat place the soldering iron flat edge against the flat side of the clips and apply solder after about 20 seconds apply the solder directly to the connection of the wire and the clip you do not have to create a large solder ball on there.the last thing i would do is use a the same knife and hold where the bend on the IAT meets the new plastic and just touch it with the soldering iron to melt it in place like the factory did.
I went to check it out at my local auto parts store. Big difference it's either 125 or 300 so yeah I'm gonna get the 01. But now, they state 01 lists for a 3.0 California emissionis. Does that matter? If this thing is calibrater for a 3.0 with different emissions, I'm not sure how my car might run. Didn't hear anybody mention that about the 01 being fitted for the 3.0 w/ Cali emissions....??
08-14-2010, 10:50 AM
#141
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 311
At any rate, bought it, soldered and ran it. So far so good so success. Car feels better. For some time the car felt sluggish picking up.
Took me a long damn time to solder it w/ a 35 Watt soldering gun. I was very pissed cursing out left and right. Another reason why I hate soldering.
I do have a 400 watt soldering gun but I didn't wanna use it. too big too hot...On the other hand I didn't have to spend time opening up the metal clips. They were already open so all I had to do was drop in the IAT sensor and solder it.
Thanks to the original poster and everyone else that helped me out.
Took me a long damn time to solder it w/ a 35 Watt soldering gun. I was very pissed cursing out left and right. Another reason why I hate soldering.
I do have a 400 watt soldering gun but I didn't wanna use it. too big too hot...On the other hand I didn't have to spend time opening up the metal clips. They were already open so all I had to do was drop in the IAT sensor and solder it.
Thanks to the original poster and everyone else that helped me out.
Last edited by 02nissmax; 08-14-2010 at 08:58 PM.
09-07-2010, 06:44 PM
#142
I will be doing this soon, but going from an early '02 to an '01 MAF (22680-6N201 to 22680-2Y001). Hopefully I don't need the flash mentioned in TSB's NTB03-022 & -023 to remedy my Maxima's issues.
After a few quick measurements I believe the IAT thermistor is Honeywell part number 135-202FAG-J01 (http://sensing.honeywell.com/index.c...1&pr_id=145443). Although my reference temperature measurement was a little suspect (Fluke multimeter gave a continually decreasing value). I have a few of these on order and will try with the new MAF.
After a few quick measurements I believe the IAT thermistor is Honeywell part number 135-202FAG-J01 (http://sensing.honeywell.com/index.c...1&pr_id=145443). Although my reference temperature measurement was a little suspect (Fluke multimeter gave a continually decreasing value). I have a few of these on order and will try with the new MAF.
I'll solder the current thermistor and see how that helps.
11-08-2010, 10:31 AM
#144
Hey guys, I've got a 2k3 maxima and am thinking about switching to a 2k1 MAF since I've been getting ****ty gas mileage lately and the car doesn't pull as hard as it used to...
Would you trust an eBay MAF?
Is this one the correct one? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2000-...Q5fAccessories
Would you trust an eBay MAF?
Is this one the correct one? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2000-...Q5fAccessories
11-08-2010, 11:59 AM
#145
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: NYC
Posts: 1,786
Hey guys, I've got a 2k3 maxima and am thinking about switching to a 2k1 MAF since I've been getting ****ty gas mileage lately and the car doesn't pull as hard as it used to...
Would you trust an eBay MAF?
Is this one the correct one? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2000-...Q5fAccessories
Would you trust an eBay MAF?
Is this one the correct one? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2000-...Q5fAccessories
It may work but I think that is the older revision. I bought this one last week and installed it on Friday with no issues. It's the current part number of 22680-2y001:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...=STRK:MEWNX:IT
11-09-2010, 06:44 AM
#146
It may work but I think that is the older revision. I bought this one last week and installed it on Friday with no issues. It's the current part number of 22680-2y001:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...=STRK:MEWNX:IT
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...=STRK:MEWNX:IT
11-12-2010, 03:27 PM
#147
Update to help people who may have the same problem: I had intermittent power loss, and my gas mileage went way down. I used to be able to get 370-380miles per tank while driving 70% hwy, 30% town and suddenly my car started suffering random power loss (some days it would work great, some days it was sloooowww) and I would barely get 310 miles per tank in the same driving conditions.
Didn't have any CEL nor any pending codes. I replaced my MAF with a 2K1 MAF and it fixed my problem.
I hope this will help someone in my situation in the future... Thanks maxima.org!
Didn't have any CEL nor any pending codes. I replaced my MAF with a 2K1 MAF and it fixed my problem.
I hope this will help someone in my situation in the future... Thanks maxima.org!
11-14-2010, 09:31 AM
#149
I do have some thermistors here just in case.
11-14-2010, 05:51 PM
#152
Yeah, it was friggin ridiculous. The thermistors were like $0.63 per, and shipping + handling (whatever that is) was ~$17. Oh well. Beats getting a new 2k2 MAF right?
11-14-2010, 06:12 PM
#153
Anyway, that's pretty amazing.
12-10-2010, 08:43 PM
#154
12-10-2010, 10:53 PM
#155
12-11-2010, 05:53 AM
#156
http://us.element-14.com/jsp/search/...&CMP=AFC-GBE14
They are 64 cents a piece. As I mentioned earlier I have not installed mine, I replaced my o2 sensor and the code went away although at times the car doesn't accelerate very smoothly around 2800rpm
01-19-2011, 06:47 AM
#158
A little vague in your description there though. I'd run the codes and see what comes from that.
There is a separate code for the IAT for both the 00-01's and 02-03's. As was stated earlier in this thread I'm sure, 00-01's have an IAT separate from the MAF. Whereas the 02-03's IAT is the aforementioned thermistor.
01-19-2011, 10:25 AM
#160