I did this swap today. It didn't address my low-end pinging, but it did buy me some peace of mind for a part that's destined to fail on our cars. Bought a 2001 MAF at my local dealership for $95 + tax. Then I soldered on the thermistor 2slow sent me last year, as the new IAT. I left the original MAF housing alone because the screen was whistle-clean. So all I had to do then was swap out the MAF. Total plug-n-play. No CEL, no problem.

And my original MAF was identical in form-factor to the replacement. The only difference was that the replacement didn't have this little thermistor (IAT Sensor). Oh, and it didn't cost over $400. You gotta love that.

Very well done, OP. Every member who reads this thread, and follows through, will save themselves over $300. Sweet!

 

Good for you, for us with 00, we can not use the one with the resistor...

 

This looks like a fun thing to try this week and hey getting this done might correct a problem I been putting up with!

Crazy funny:
06/2001-12/2001 3.5L
Price: $442

VQ30DE only
22680 - 2000-2001 3.0L Also fits worldwide nissan and infiniti that require 22680-AD200 or 22680-AD201 or 22680-AD20A.
Price: $87.01

 

This is a great write up and the pics really help but i have only one question can i swap the cheaper unit for the one in my 2003 3.5L

 

02 or 03

 

My maf just went on me so I might try this.

Now 2 things:
a) Is it a must that you must secure the thermistor in place by soldering or some other way, is it not enough by closing/squeezing the metal clips?

b) If you do solder it in place, then if it goes again, then you are done? well I guess you can unsolder...?

 

I didn' solder mine, just used needle nose pliers to secure.

 

cool thanks,

but damn those metal stays are f#$%&* hard to open up. WAs curious and started to try to open up those metal stays and so far no go

 

Read this thread for techniques ...

 

I remember reading how MIK3 had his come loose after swapping the thermistor. Solder seemed a thorough precaution. Can only help, can't hurt, requires zero effort.

Yup.

 

Well got it off w/ a better pair of pliers duh

Only thing is where the thermistor was being pinched by the metal stays, it looks as if its a bit thinner. I don't know I mean I know probably about 95% of you have done it successfully but something about having that thermistor coming loose and going in my engine that I don't like. I might spend the money this time. Defenitely not from the dealer though. A remanufactured unit that is...

 

Hmm, funny but that never crossed my mind. I suppose that is a valid and serious concern, having a little wire get sucked into the TB.

Well then, you know what you do...? Solder it.

 

See this is why i love forums. great post. I will be doing this when I feel my maf needs to be changed.

Only question I have is how do you know if the IAT is still good from the old maf, or is it not common for the IAT to go out

 

I hear you. Then if it goes again, Ill have to unsolder, More work. Can't have everything I guess...

 

It's only work if your MAF housing is part of the OEM intake configuration. If you have a short-ram intake, just lean over the hood and unscrew it. See below here? The MAF couldn't be any more accessible.

 

I see, can't get simpler than that. But I have an OEM setup.
Actually taking it out it's not the big deal for me.
Honestly soldering is. I can solder (I think) but when it comes to smaller things like this, my solders just don't come out good. So if the solder doesn't stick or comes loose because of my great soldering skills then ultimately for me it's not worth it. Of course this is a pesonal problem between my and solder

 

Oh, me too. I pretty much butchered the IAT connection points because I have zero soldering skills. But it doesn't matter as long as the wire is crimped down, and the solder is melted over the wire and the clip.

If I took my MAF out and showed you a macro photo of the swap, it wouldn't be pretty. But it works. Of that I'm 100% confident.

C'mon, man. You can do this. Don't over analyze the thing.

 

Allright, gonna try it tomorrow then. Thanks for the reassurance and trust in me (thumbs up). Micro soldering for me is like bringing up my ex girlfriend's name but I'll defenitely try it.

thanks!

 

Just a little tip on the soldering.use a thin knife to open up the metal clips on the new MAF the apply a tiny amount of flux on the clips after you seat the old IAT to the new maf and squeezed the clips closed the flux will help the solder flow and form a good joint.Use electronics 60/40 solder not the stuff for plumbing.when you goto apply the heat place the soldering iron flat edge against the flat side of the clips and apply solder after about 20 seconds apply the solder directly to the connection of the wire and the clip you do not have to create a large solder ball on there.the last thing i would do is use a the same knife and hold where the bend on the IAT meets the new plastic and just touch it with the soldering iron to melt it in place like the factory did.

 

thanks for the tips man.

I went to check it out at my local auto parts store. Big difference it's either 125 or 300 so yeah I'm gonna get the 01. But now, they state 01 lists for a 3.0 California emissionis. Does that matter? If this thing is calibrater for a 3.0 with different emissions, I'm not sure how my car might run. Didn't hear anybody mention that about the 01 being fitted for the 3.0 w/ Cali emissions....??

 

At any rate, bought it, soldered and ran it. So far so good so success. Car feels better. For some time the car felt sluggish picking up.

Took me a long damn time to solder it w/ a 35 Watt soldering gun. I was very pissed cursing out left and right. Another reason why I hate soldering.

I do have a 400 watt soldering gun but I didn't wanna use it. too big too hot...On the other hand I didn't have to spend time opening up the metal clips. They were already open so all I had to do was drop in the IAT sensor and solder it.

Thanks to the original poster and everyone else that helped me out.

 

Sorry for bumping an old thread, I am curious as to how the replacement thermistor is working out? I got a code 0113 and would like to replace/repair my maf, I also did the 2k1 maf...

I'll solder the current thermistor and see how that helps.

 

Mine is still working fine 4 months later.

 

Hey guys, I've got a 2k3 maxima and am thinking about switching to a 2k1 MAF since I've been getting ****ty gas mileage lately and the car doesn't pull as hard as it used to...

Would you trust an eBay MAF?

Is this one the correct one? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2000-...Q5fAccessories

 

It may work but I think that is the older revision. I bought this one last week and installed it on Friday with no issues. It's the current part number of 22680-2y001:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...=STRK:MEWNX:IT

 

Thanks man! I just bought it. Will let you know if it fixes my problem.

 

Update to help people who may have the same problem: I had intermittent power loss, and my gas mileage went way down. I used to be able to get 370-380miles per tank while driving 70% hwy, 30% town and suddenly my car started suffering random power loss (some days it would work great, some days it was sloooowww) and I would barely get 310 miles per tank in the same driving conditions.

Didn't have any CEL nor any pending codes. I replaced my MAF with a 2K1 MAF and it fixed my problem.

I hope this will help someone in my situation in the future... Thanks maxima.org!

 

Just ordered a pack of 3 Honeywell thermistors to fix my P0113 after my 2k1 MAF swap. We'll see what happens.

 

I replaced my 02 sensor and now my 0113 went away

I do have some thermistors here just in case.

 

^^^ Weird. Maybe it was coincidental? Those are 2 completely different areas. I hope the new Honeywell thermistor I ordered fixes my P0113. We'll see I guess.

 

How much was your 3-pack, jowo9? I'm guessing the shipping cost you more that the thermistors did.

Just curious, is all.

 

Yeah, it was friggin ridiculous. The thermistors were like $0.63 per, and shipping + handling (whatever that is) was ~$17. Oh well. Beats getting a new 2k2 MAF right?

 

$0.63/ea? All along now I've been saying "pennies", without really knowing exactly. And here it really is just pennies. I bet someone on the forum could buy a few dozen thermistors, then sell them here for $5/each shipped, and make a nice little profit.

Anyway, that's pretty amazing.

 

I bought mine but it was like 8$ shipped for 3 of them.

element-14.com

 

Can you post the link to which ones you got? I'm on that site right now but there's hundreds of different ones. I have no idea what I'm looking for.

 

As per 2slow's reply on page 1, the PN is 135-202FAG-J01

http://us.element-14.com/jsp/search/...&CMP=AFC-GBE14

They are 64 cents a piece. As I mentioned earlier I have not installed mine, I replaced my o2 sensor and the code went away although at times the car doesn't accelerate very smoothly around 2800rpm

 

So my MAF is not working properly, Do you all think theres a good chance by replacing the thermistor with a new one can fix my problem?

 

Is your car an 00, 01, 02 or 03?


A little vague in your description there though. I'd run the codes and see what comes from that.

There is a separate code for the IAT for both the 00-01's and 02-03's. As was stated earlier in this thread I'm sure, 00-01's have an IAT separate from the MAF. Whereas the 02-03's IAT is the aforementioned thermistor.

 

I have a 02

 

See what code is popping up, or, since it's less than a dollar, buy it and install the new one. It's not very common for just he IAT to fail so I don;t think that's the problem,, maybe explain a little better what exactly is the problem.