2k2 to 2k1 MAF swap with pictures
12-07-2011, 06:41 AM
#202
I just did this conversion last night. It took me about 5 minutes to pull the dead sensor, and swap over the thermistor. I simply melted the 'U' shaped channel with the tip of a junk soldering iron to keep the thermistor from rattling around. Car seems to run great! I also did no 're-learning'. I simply re-connected the battery and let the car warm up.
12-07-2011, 07:24 AM
#203
Anyone that has used the aftermarket element-14.com thermistor have any issues with them? Just curious, I was thinking I might pick a couple up and convert my other two dead 02-03 MAFs so I have some spares.
Also, I have another 00-01 MAF that I picked up that had a different part number (not the 2Y001) and I was curious if that would work to convert as well? Anyone know? The sensor looked the same (from what I recall, it is not in front of me right now).
Also, I have another 00-01 MAF that I picked up that had a different part number (not the 2Y001) and I was curious if that would work to convert as well? Anyone know? The sensor looked the same (from what I recall, it is not in front of me right now).
12-07-2011, 07:54 AM
#204
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 26
Unfortunately, as others have brought up, the hesitation did gradually return after my swap... It's not quite the same as it was before, though, but by now any power above 2500 RPM is practically nonexistent. I didn't have any money to go for the reflash until now, but I just made an appointment, so we'll see how that goes.
I have read the technical service bulletins on this subject, and the reflash is indeed an update to the computer program, not a simple reset. It appears that both the 5.0 and 5.5 gen received an "updated" MAF sensor, and both require the reflash after installing the new part. The 2Y001 part that we've been swapping the thermistor to is the updated MAF for the 5.0 gen. Since the part I pulled off mine was prior to the update, my ECU was never flashed with the new software, hence the issues.
The main TSB on the subject is number NTB03-023 entitled "Lack of Power"; however, a seemingly unrelated TSB NTB02-051a regarding the O2 sensors also requires a reflash, but since it appears to be the same reflash that updates the MAF program, it also says to check the MAF part number. This is the one I saw that linked the 2Y001 and AM600 as both being an "updated airflow meter".
I found the TSBs online at http://maxima.theowensfamily.com/tsb....asp?year=2002
I have read the technical service bulletins on this subject, and the reflash is indeed an update to the computer program, not a simple reset. It appears that both the 5.0 and 5.5 gen received an "updated" MAF sensor, and both require the reflash after installing the new part. The 2Y001 part that we've been swapping the thermistor to is the updated MAF for the 5.0 gen. Since the part I pulled off mine was prior to the update, my ECU was never flashed with the new software, hence the issues.
The main TSB on the subject is number NTB03-023 entitled "Lack of Power"; however, a seemingly unrelated TSB NTB02-051a regarding the O2 sensors also requires a reflash, but since it appears to be the same reflash that updates the MAF program, it also says to check the MAF part number. This is the one I saw that linked the 2Y001 and AM600 as both being an "updated airflow meter".
I found the TSBs online at http://maxima.theowensfamily.com/tsb....asp?year=2002
12-07-2011, 12:32 PM
#205
The MAF and reset had been done to my car just before I bought it. The MAF I pulled off of the car initially (1st time it went bad this spring) was a 22680-AM600. I have the paperwork for the MAF work and reflash luckily..so I think I should be clear of any issues down the road with this conversion..
Still does anyone know if the other 00-01 MAFs will work to use with this conversion?
Still does anyone know if the other 00-01 MAFs will work to use with this conversion?
12-12-2011, 07:19 AM
#206
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 26
Yep, as long as you've already gotten the ECU flash, you should be fine. I pulled an older part number off mine, probably the original MAF, hence the necessary flash.
I took my car to the stealership Thursday 12/8. I told them that I replaced the MAF meter with the updated part and I needed the ECU reprogrammed. Since I seemed to know what I was talking about, they didn't even make a fuss. They said it's typically about an hour of shop time, thus $120. Either they didn't check that the MAF I installed was indeed the AM600, or they didn't care that it was the 2k1 updated MAF, because they never said anything. About an hour later, it was done, and she pulls like a Maxima once again.
So the grand total cost to me to fix my MAF was $212.28 including shipping. Still saved a bundle doing the swap, since the other MAF is $442 as opposed to $87, and I still would have needed the ECU reprogramming, so it would have cost me $567.28 otherwise. Even if they griped about the MAF I install not being the AM600, it would still be plenty worth buying a used AM600 to get them to do the flash.
I took my car to the stealership Thursday 12/8. I told them that I replaced the MAF meter with the updated part and I needed the ECU reprogrammed. Since I seemed to know what I was talking about, they didn't even make a fuss. They said it's typically about an hour of shop time, thus $120. Either they didn't check that the MAF I installed was indeed the AM600, or they didn't care that it was the 2k1 updated MAF, because they never said anything. About an hour later, it was done, and she pulls like a Maxima once again.
So the grand total cost to me to fix my MAF was $212.28 including shipping. Still saved a bundle doing the swap, since the other MAF is $442 as opposed to $87, and I still would have needed the ECU reprogramming, so it would have cost me $567.28 otherwise. Even if they griped about the MAF I install not being the AM600, it would still be plenty worth buying a used AM600 to get them to do the flash.
12-12-2011, 10:03 AM
#207
Nice! Yeah I can't imagine that they will check the sensor..
Anyone try the other 00-01 MAFs with this? I suppose I will give it a shot in the coming week or so and report back, unless someone knows the answer to my question.
Anyone try the other 00-01 MAFs with this? I suppose I will give it a shot in the coming week or so and report back, unless someone knows the answer to my question.
12-12-2011, 11:02 AM
#208
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 26
Sorry for ignoring your question lol. As far as I know, I don't think anyone has tried using an older MAF with the new software, but from what I can tell from the Nissan TSBs, the updated sensor and the updated program go hand in hand; whenever the ECU is reprogrammed, the TSBs say to check the MAF sensor and replace it with the AM600 if it is not already. I would say if you've done the ECU reprogramming, only the 2Y001 or AM600 sensor will work properly. Besides, I don't even think the 00-01 MAF prior to the 2Y001 even had a place for the thermistor.
Also, using the older sensor would be a downgrade. The older design was prone to wearing out faster and produced a brief hesitation around 2500-3000 RPMs, which prompted the update. The 2Y001 and AM600 should be superior, and you've already got the ECU reprogrammed, which is more expensive than the 2Y001 sensor, which is only $87 at courtesyparts.com.
Also, using the older sensor would be a downgrade. The older design was prone to wearing out faster and produced a brief hesitation around 2500-3000 RPMs, which prompted the update. The 2Y001 and AM600 should be superior, and you've already got the ECU reprogrammed, which is more expensive than the 2Y001 sensor, which is only $87 at courtesyparts.com.
12-12-2011, 01:13 PM
#209
Was there an issue with earlier 00-01 MAF sensors? I have not read anything saying that..I do think the older 5th gen sensor has the spots for the thermistor just as the 2y001 does..
And I cannot imagine that the car would know the difference between the 2y001 and another 00-01 MAF. It wouldn't makes sense for the 5.5 gen reflash to work with 1 modded 5th gen MAF, but not another..not saying it would for sure work, but I don't see why not...oh well, I will just try it.
And I cannot imagine that the car would know the difference between the 2y001 and another 00-01 MAF. It wouldn't makes sense for the 5.5 gen reflash to work with 1 modded 5th gen MAF, but not another..not saying it would for sure work, but I don't see why not...oh well, I will just try it.
12-12-2011, 02:53 PM
#210
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 26
If you read the TSBs, you'll see that the 00-01 received a similar "updated" MAF sensor (the 2Y001) which also requires an ECU flash. Since the 2Y001 and AM600 seem to be interchangeable after the reflash (with the thermistor swap), and they are cited together in the TSBs as being an "updated airflow sensor", we could reasonably conclude that both half-generations received the same update, one via the AM600 and one via the 2Y001 sensors, both requiring an update to the ECU programming.
This would also explain why now all of a sudden the latest 00-01 MAF has a place for a thermistor. The intake air temperature sensor was never integrated with the MAF until the 2002 model, so why would there be a place for a thermistor in prior MAF sensors? However, assuming that both half-generations received a MAF update sometime around 2003 (when the TSB was written), it would make sense for them to alter the design to make them more similar for manufacturing reasons. Under this assumption, it would not make sense to expect that an 00-01 MAF sensor prior to the 2Y001 would have a place for a thermistor. Of course, the only way to know for sure is to pull it out and look. Even if it does, however, the TSB strongly implies that the older MAF sensors are incompatible with the new ECU program, to the point where replacing it with an AM600 (or 2Y001 in the case of the 00-01) is mandatory whenever the ECU program is updated.
The updated MAF sensor along with ECU flash was intended to solve a hesitation issue described in the TSB as happening around 2500-3000 RPMs. This hesitation issue would happen with a healthy sensor before it actually goes out, but the update is only done for customers who complain about this hesitation or when another issue prompts an ECU update.
This would also explain why now all of a sudden the latest 00-01 MAF has a place for a thermistor. The intake air temperature sensor was never integrated with the MAF until the 2002 model, so why would there be a place for a thermistor in prior MAF sensors? However, assuming that both half-generations received a MAF update sometime around 2003 (when the TSB was written), it would make sense for them to alter the design to make them more similar for manufacturing reasons. Under this assumption, it would not make sense to expect that an 00-01 MAF sensor prior to the 2Y001 would have a place for a thermistor. Of course, the only way to know for sure is to pull it out and look. Even if it does, however, the TSB strongly implies that the older MAF sensors are incompatible with the new ECU program, to the point where replacing it with an AM600 (or 2Y001 in the case of the 00-01) is mandatory whenever the ECU program is updated.
The updated MAF sensor along with ECU flash was intended to solve a hesitation issue described in the TSB as happening around 2500-3000 RPMs. This hesitation issue would happen with a healthy sensor before it actually goes out, but the update is only done for customers who complain about this hesitation or when another issue prompts an ECU update.
12-13-2011, 09:49 AM
#211
Ahhh...ok. That makes more sense. I didn't realize the 00-01 cars received an update as well..that should answer my question then! I will check tonight on the other 00-01 MAF that I have and see if it even has a spot for the thermistor.
12-14-2011, 07:42 AM
#212
I looked last night at the 00-01 MAfs that I have. One of them is a 22680-AD200, and it indeed does not have the metal tabs for a thermistor. I will be picking up a few more MAFs for comparison sake, to see if there are any others that do have the tabs, out of curiosity.
12-14-2011, 12:37 PM
#213
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Lagos, Nigeria
Posts: 863
Sorry for ignoring your question lol. As far as I know, I don't think anyone has tried using an older MAF with the new software, but from what I can tell from the Nissan TSBs, the updated sensor and the updated program go hand in hand; whenever the ECU is reprogrammed, the TSBs say to check the MAF sensor and replace it with the AM600 if it is not already. I would say if you've done the ECU reprogramming, only the 2Y001 or AM600 sensor will work properly. Besides, I don't even think the 00-01 MAF prior to the 2Y001 even had a place for the thermistor.
Also, using the older sensor would be a downgrade. The older design was prone to wearing out faster and produced a brief hesitation around 2500-3000 RPMs, which prompted the update. The 2Y001 and AM600 should be superior, and you've already got the ECU reprogrammed...
Also, using the older sensor would be a downgrade. The older design was prone to wearing out faster and produced a brief hesitation around 2500-3000 RPMs, which prompted the update. The 2Y001 and AM600 should be superior, and you've already got the ECU reprogrammed...
So far so good and no codes. Would this be because there was no grafting or swapping of a 6N200 series thermistor to another MAF as it was in your case? Or that the 6N21A is compatible with the car's ECU originally programmed for the AM600?
Last edited by Costee; 03-21-2012 at 08:04 AM.
01-20-2012, 09:26 AM
#215
just going to add my experience in here real quick.
i bought a 2001 MAF off of ebay and did the thermo resistor swap from my 2002 MAF (the non am600 type).
The swap was simple enough. Clamped down the two metal tabs for the ends and used some epoxy to seal up the U bend at the bottom.
put the MAF back in and the car immediately idled and stayed alive were as before it wouldn't do that at all. Car still seems like its going to die on first start .. gets as low as 2-300 RPM but will surge back up ... car idles low at stop lights after the car has stopped for about 5 seconds ... not sure whats up with that.
check engine light stayed on even after clearing the codes with one of the code checkers. the only code that was being thrown after clearing the codes was for the thermo resistor.
after doing the pedal ecu relearn procedure the code finally cleared and the CEL went away long enough to pass emissions testing and get my tags but it returned. same code. same symptoms .. i bought an aftermarket replacement for the am600. Hoping to finally be done with this issue all together ..
not sure why this swap didnt work for me, but it hasnt. I'm not sure if the thermo resistor was actually bad or not ...
i bought a 2001 MAF off of ebay and did the thermo resistor swap from my 2002 MAF (the non am600 type).
The swap was simple enough. Clamped down the two metal tabs for the ends and used some epoxy to seal up the U bend at the bottom.
put the MAF back in and the car immediately idled and stayed alive were as before it wouldn't do that at all. Car still seems like its going to die on first start .. gets as low as 2-300 RPM but will surge back up ... car idles low at stop lights after the car has stopped for about 5 seconds ... not sure whats up with that.
check engine light stayed on even after clearing the codes with one of the code checkers. the only code that was being thrown after clearing the codes was for the thermo resistor.
after doing the pedal ecu relearn procedure the code finally cleared and the CEL went away long enough to pass emissions testing and get my tags but it returned. same code. same symptoms .. i bought an aftermarket replacement for the am600. Hoping to finally be done with this issue all together ..
not sure why this swap didnt work for me, but it hasnt. I'm not sure if the thermo resistor was actually bad or not ...
02-20-2012, 07:41 PM
#216
Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Levittown, NY
Posts: 107
Just to add my .02 cents here. I have an 02 maxima 6mt mfd in 10/01. Just went into limp mode bc of the MAF and I found 2 things that might seriously help anyone in my position.
This is a technical service bulletin that Nissan put out regarding the MAF sensors in early 02 maximas.
http://maxima.theowensfamily.com/tsb/NTB03-022.pdf
And the required 22680-am600 MAF sensor. Found it on eBay for 35 bucks!!!
http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewi...d=360409396454
Hope this helps, I just bought it can't wait til it comes in.
Update: don't buy it from eBay, it doesn't work.
This is a technical service bulletin that Nissan put out regarding the MAF sensors in early 02 maximas.
http://maxima.theowensfamily.com/tsb/NTB03-022.pdf
And the required 22680-am600 MAF sensor. Found it on eBay for 35 bucks!!!
http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewi...d=360409396454
Hope this helps, I just bought it can't wait til it comes in.
Update: don't buy it from eBay, it doesn't work.
Last edited by nycibbyryder; 03-28-2012 at 08:57 AM.
02-20-2012, 10:45 PM
#217
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Houston, TX, USA
Posts: 33
P0101, P0103, P0113
Hey guys,
I got some good help here a few months ago re: MAF sensor. I ended up replacing my original MAF with a NAPA remanufactured MAF for 2001 (I have a 2002). I did this because another member had posted satisfactory results with this same fix and the NAPA model has the resistor and looked pretty much identical to the actual 2002 OEM sensor.
Fast forward, my Max has been running pretty well overall, good mileage. The CEL came on a couple of times over the months, but usually when the temperature changed suddenly, and then went off in a day or so. The car still continued to run fine.
Currently, I'm having a different problem. I'm pulling the above 3 codes. When I start the car it idles erratically somewhere between 500-1100 RPM's for a minute or so, then dies. Sometimes, it won't start, but I am usually able to get it going.
My code tester and my mechanically inclined neighbor seem to think it's the MAF again. His opinion, is to buy the OEM 2002 MAF sensor, period. I'm beginning to think that's what I should do. I'm aware of the simple fix, and getting the part from DaveB, and soldering in the resistor, etc, but am thinking if I can get a 12 month 12000 mile warranty on a new dealer part might be worth it. I travel alot in business and would like to get another 6 months to a year of relatively smooth running vehicle. (I know there is no guarantee that's going to happen.)
Some further info: I just went over the 200K mark. The tranny was recently checked and given a thumbs up from a respected transmission shop that we've dealt with for years. Engine seems to be good. My only other concerns are, that I've never replaced the cat convertor or pre-cats, or any O2 sensors.
Is there a possibility that these might be part of the problem. I hate to spend 400+ plus for an OEM MAF and find out that doesn't solve the problem....
Any help or opinions would be greatly appreciated. Also, if there is another area that this question could be posted, please let me know. Thanks.
I got some good help here a few months ago re: MAF sensor. I ended up replacing my original MAF with a NAPA remanufactured MAF for 2001 (I have a 2002). I did this because another member had posted satisfactory results with this same fix and the NAPA model has the resistor and looked pretty much identical to the actual 2002 OEM sensor.
Fast forward, my Max has been running pretty well overall, good mileage. The CEL came on a couple of times over the months, but usually when the temperature changed suddenly, and then went off in a day or so. The car still continued to run fine.
Currently, I'm having a different problem. I'm pulling the above 3 codes. When I start the car it idles erratically somewhere between 500-1100 RPM's for a minute or so, then dies. Sometimes, it won't start, but I am usually able to get it going.
My code tester and my mechanically inclined neighbor seem to think it's the MAF again. His opinion, is to buy the OEM 2002 MAF sensor, period. I'm beginning to think that's what I should do. I'm aware of the simple fix, and getting the part from DaveB, and soldering in the resistor, etc, but am thinking if I can get a 12 month 12000 mile warranty on a new dealer part might be worth it. I travel alot in business and would like to get another 6 months to a year of relatively smooth running vehicle. (I know there is no guarantee that's going to happen.)
Some further info: I just went over the 200K mark. The tranny was recently checked and given a thumbs up from a respected transmission shop that we've dealt with for years. Engine seems to be good. My only other concerns are, that I've never replaced the cat convertor or pre-cats, or any O2 sensors.
Is there a possibility that these might be part of the problem. I hate to spend 400+ plus for an OEM MAF and find out that doesn't solve the problem....
Any help or opinions would be greatly appreciated. Also, if there is another area that this question could be posted, please let me know. Thanks.
03-20-2012, 10:18 AM
#219
just going to add my experience in here real quick.
i bought a 2001 MAF off of ebay and did the thermo resistor swap from my 2002 MAF (the non am600 type).
The swap was simple enough. Clamped down the two metal tabs for the ends and used some epoxy to seal up the U bend at the bottom.
put the MAF back in and the car immediately idled and stayed alive were as before it wouldn't do that at all. Car still seems like its going to die on first start .. gets as low as 2-300 RPM but will surge back up ... car idles low at stop lights after the car has stopped for about 5 seconds ... not sure whats up with that.
check engine light stayed on even after clearing the codes with one of the code checkers. the only code that was being thrown after clearing the codes was for the thermo resistor.
after doing the pedal ecu relearn procedure the code finally cleared and the CEL went away long enough to pass emissions testing and get my tags but it returned. same code. same symptoms .. i bought an aftermarket replacement for the am600. Hoping to finally be done with this issue all together ..
not sure why this swap didnt work for me, but it hasnt. I'm not sure if the thermo resistor was actually bad or not ...
i bought a 2001 MAF off of ebay and did the thermo resistor swap from my 2002 MAF (the non am600 type).
The swap was simple enough. Clamped down the two metal tabs for the ends and used some epoxy to seal up the U bend at the bottom.
put the MAF back in and the car immediately idled and stayed alive were as before it wouldn't do that at all. Car still seems like its going to die on first start .. gets as low as 2-300 RPM but will surge back up ... car idles low at stop lights after the car has stopped for about 5 seconds ... not sure whats up with that.
check engine light stayed on even after clearing the codes with one of the code checkers. the only code that was being thrown after clearing the codes was for the thermo resistor.
after doing the pedal ecu relearn procedure the code finally cleared and the CEL went away long enough to pass emissions testing and get my tags but it returned. same code. same symptoms .. i bought an aftermarket replacement for the am600. Hoping to finally be done with this issue all together ..
not sure why this swap didnt work for me, but it hasnt. I'm not sure if the thermo resistor was actually bad or not ...
My car started dying on me again at red lights or when coming to a quick stop ... if i give it some gas it usually stays alive, but its starting to get really annoying. Seems to only happen once i've been driving the car for a while. not sure what happens in the ECU once the car warms up, but i'm convinced there is some type of lowering of power or idle that is causing this for me ...
I'm WAY over due for some spark plugs, so i'm going to change those when when i change my oil soon. If that doesnt fix it, i'm just going to drop the money on a new MAF.
03-21-2012, 02:35 PM
#220
Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Levittown, NY
Posts: 107
Ok so just to update I got the am600 MAF in from
eBay. Damn it cured the lag hardcore I found power I never knew I had lol. Got the ecu reprogramming done at Nissan. Then it started stalling.... Over and over again at like every red light. So I went back to Nissan, gave them my vin and they told me the correct p/n for my MAF was 22680-6n20a. So I figure w/e lemme try that one, bought it off eBay and installed it. Now the lag came back, but it stalls less... So by this point I figured lemme stop being an a$$ about it and just get it over with. So I bought it from the dealer. Just gave em my vin acted like I didn't know sh¡t and they gave me the dealer part. Just installed it about a half hour ago... I'll post up in a day or so and let you guys know what happens.
eBay. Damn it cured the lag hardcore I found power I never knew I had lol. Got the ecu reprogramming done at Nissan. Then it started stalling.... Over and over again at like every red light. So I went back to Nissan, gave them my vin and they told me the correct p/n for my MAF was 22680-6n20a. So I figure w/e lemme try that one, bought it off eBay and installed it. Now the lag came back, but it stalls less... So by this point I figured lemme stop being an a$$ about it and just get it over with. So I bought it from the dealer. Just gave em my vin acted like I didn't know sh¡t and they gave me the dealer part. Just installed it about a half hour ago... I'll post up in a day or so and let you guys know what happens.
03-21-2012, 02:51 PM
#221
Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Levittown, NY
Posts: 107
Update: just sat in the parking lot at my job and no stalling... It's a lot smoother now too... Also it looks like there's a resistor that isn't there on the dealer part... I'm wondering if they just got rid of the temp resistor? Iono. So far it's looking like you should just never buy a MAF off eBay lolol.
03-27-2012, 01:51 AM
#222
I been trying to get to the bottom of some problems and a shop tells me the 2000-2001 MAF with the IAT wire from the 2002+ is "Slow to respond" when you give the engine revs when park or neutral.
03-27-2012, 07:52 AM
#223
i'm going to get my ECU reflashed soon, and if it doesnt fix the problem them i'm going to bite the bullet and get the actual part and not these cheapo fixes from Ebay.
i changed my spark plugs out recently and that didnt cure the stalling (did find out that i need to change out my rear valve cover with an 04 due to leaking in the cylinder though)
i changed my spark plugs out recently and that didnt cure the stalling (did find out that i need to change out my rear valve cover with an 04 due to leaking in the cylinder though)
03-28-2012, 08:48 AM
#224
Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Levittown, NY
Posts: 107
Ok so update a few days later. I didn't get my ecu reflashed with the new MAF sensor and in 2 days time it completely burned out. So I swapped it out for the eBay one again which at least works. During those 2 days it worked like a dream though so that's good. I'm sending back the one from the dealer on warranty though and should have another one in a week or so, I'll have the dealer install it and reflash at the same time. I'm still curious though if that TSB still applies even though it was made way back in 03. I think I'll print one out and go to a dealer or 2 to see... The worst part of all this is I ordered the obx headers and nwp spacers with the MAF. So now with another busted MAF I have these parts just uselessly sitting around.... >_<
03-28-2012, 08:54 AM
#225
Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Levittown, NY
Posts: 107
I can't say if you'll have the same result as me, but when I reflashed with the am600 eBay one nothing changed, still stalling all over the place. I'm gonna take it into the dealer and see what they say about the am600 (dealer version) lol. I'll keep posting I don't want anyone else to have to deal w/ this. I'm already about $700 in the hole from this bs MAF sensor. Still with no solutions. I actually went to the infinity dealer the other day bc of it to check out an 08 g35s sedan. They said if I put down 5k he could have me out the door with a payment of about 325/month... Might start saving if I can't figure this bs out lol.
03-28-2012, 10:36 AM
#228
well i meant the AM600 which is several hundred dollars depending where you get it.
I got a AM600 off ebay (new, knockoff) for around 35 or 40.
it works, but i'm still getting the stalling issue and the slight hesitation in the lower RPM range (2k-3k RPM)
I got a AM600 off ebay (new, knockoff) for around 35 or 40.
it works, but i'm still getting the stalling issue and the slight hesitation in the lower RPM range (2k-3k RPM)
03-28-2012, 10:45 AM
#229
Hopefully the reflash cures the issue though.
03-28-2012, 10:57 AM
#230
We'll i bought the cheaper 2001 version off ebay (it was about 75 bucks) and attempted the thermo resistor move, but that didnt work out for me (posted about it here and in my other thread)
when i do reflash i'll try to use that one if the one i have now doesnt work before doing anything drastic.
when i do reflash i'll try to use that one if the one i have now doesnt work before doing anything drastic.
08-11-2012, 10:33 AM
#234
Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Levittown, NY
Posts: 107
Just have to make sure to get it from the dealer and NOT an aftermarket or eBay part. I think we've established that all eBay mafs are junk. Lol.
Update on my story btw, I got them to warranty/exchange the MAF for me, new 6n20a from the dealer, that one lasted 2 months and blew. So I got them to warranty exchange for a am600... Did the service. Works good for now. If that doesn't work ill get the 01 part from the dealer. Figure I already spent this money so I may as well exhaust it first, besides I heard mixed reviews about the 01 part for guys with a mfd date between 9/01 and 11/01, and if THAT doesn't work I'm getting a MAF translator and converting the whole stupid thing to a MAP sensor
Update on my story btw, I got them to warranty/exchange the MAF for me, new 6n20a from the dealer, that one lasted 2 months and blew. So I got them to warranty exchange for a am600... Did the service. Works good for now. If that doesn't work ill get the 01 part from the dealer. Figure I already spent this money so I may as well exhaust it first, besides I heard mixed reviews about the 01 part for guys with a mfd date between 9/01 and 11/01, and if THAT doesn't work I'm getting a MAF translator and converting the whole stupid thing to a MAP sensor
09-26-2012, 08:02 PM
#236
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 27
After reading the first five pages and some other threads I was okay. After this last page I'm confused about the ecu reprogramming. I have a 2002 an I plan on doing the 2k2 2k1 conversion. Will I or will I not have to go to Nissan and have my ecu reprogrammed?
09-26-2012, 09:45 PM
#237
From what I've gathered if your 2k2 was an early build date and you don't currently have the AM600 MAF on it then you probably will need the reflash.
I just bought an '01 MAF and my build date is 9/01 and I still have the old style MAF on my car so I will most likely have to stop by the dealership to have them perform the ecu update which sucks but I'll live.
09-27-2012, 08:41 PM
#238
Reflashing the ECU at the dealership, what is that supposed to cost? I would hate going in without knowing at least a general ballpark cost so I can walk if I get asked to pay some outrageous fee.
09-27-2012, 09:14 PM
#239
Steps:
Unclip the MAF connector; remove air box/maf housing/intake tube by removing these bolts & loosening the collar's flathead. ALSO don't forget to take off the hose that connects from the intake to the front valve cover (I think)---the spiggot on the intake is the upper-most red circle. Then remove the whole thing from the car:
Remove the bolt & loosen the collar with a flathead to separate maf housing from intake tube:
Remove these bolts to separate maf housing from air box:
View after maf housing removed (can see the filter):
Remove the 2 torx screws, turn the connector a quarter-turn, and wiggle/pull the sensor out:
Unclip the MAF connector; remove air box/maf housing/intake tube by removing these bolts & loosening the collar's flathead. ALSO don't forget to take off the hose that connects from the intake to the front valve cover (I think)---the spiggot on the intake is the upper-most red circle. Then remove the whole thing from the car:
Remove the bolt & loosen the collar with a flathead to separate maf housing from intake tube:
Remove these bolts to separate maf housing from air box:
View after maf housing removed (can see the filter):
Remove the 2 torx screws, turn the connector a quarter-turn, and wiggle/pull the sensor out:
That K&N Panel Filter is Your MAF's enemy.