killer00

iTrader: (1)

I get the P0113 code and when i step on it, it laggs, it doesn't increase speed smoothly.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Then buy the replacement thermistor and swap it. Couldn't hurt, 64 cents well spent.

The P0113 is the IAT sensor afterall.

killer00

iTrader: (1)

I took off the MAF, guess what, the d*m Thermistor is missing.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

I was going to say something along the lines that it's probably either missing, or danging in the wind, because those things just don't fail all that often.

killer00

iTrader: (1)

I know this is getting somewhat off topic. Do you know where i can buy a holder for a short ram intake because my filter hits the body and i need something to hold it away from the body so it wont hit.

Rochester

iTrader: (3)

This came up recently in another thread.

mahanddeem

thank you ridinwitha35 for your great write up
thank you 2slow for the info about the "aftermarket" thermistor
thank you everyone for the disscusion

I did that conversion today...I used the thermistor from element-14.com , as I didn't want to canabilize my stil working MAF....Everything worked great,my car returns to pull as strong as it should as a 255 HP engine...Just take your time and be patient ...........I also soldered the new thermistor using a soldering tool,was easy....washed also the whole stock air box and things are perfect so far so good...

again,thanks alot everybody

ndscrub212

iTrader: (4)

I have a question, I have a 2002 maxima SE 6 Speed. I am buying a 2006 maxima engine to put in. I am curious to know if I am going to need to know anything specific. I know the engine should fit no problem but I am not sure about the ECU or the harness. If anyone has made this swap or knows someone who has I would appreciate the insight and help.

mahdlokg

Back in post #30, someone mentioned that the NAPA MAF Sensor for '01 Maxima had the IAT already in the unit. Can anyone confirm this?

Also, it sounds like the best thing to do when a new MAF sensor is installed, is to run it by the dealer and let them flash the ECU for $100+.

Thanks!

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

It's a toss up some might and some might not. I would go to NAPA and ask them if it does have it. Heck, even buy one if the price is right. You would have nothing to lose since if it didn't have the thermistor, you could just use this thread and transfer your current piece into the new MAF.


I tossed an 01 MAF on my car about 5 months ago and have not yet gone to the dealer for said reflash, if it doesn't act like it needs it, it probably doesn't.

Rochester

iTrader: (3)

Really? Because I didn't hear that at all.

If you're replacing a functional MAF, you probably don't need it. Either way, if the car is running well, you probably don't need it. Swapped mine 10 months ago; my car is fine.

mahdlokg

OK here's an update to my experience of popping in an '01 re-manufactured MAF sensor from NAPA into my '02 Maxima. It worked great for just about a week and then, I noticed that the idle which is normally right at 700, started to flucuate between 450 & 700. Felt like it was going to die on me at the stop lights. Then the check engine light came back on. It was dtill drivable, but I hooked it up and it is still pulling code 1102. I am wondering whether to pony up the additional 200 for an'02 MAF sensor or???? take to the dealer for the ECM flash???? Any ideas? Thanks.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Did you transfer the thermistor from your old MAF?

amixamse

iTrader: (2)

napas 00/01 version did not have the thermistor, but did very closely look like oem. checked past weekend,,, still in the search for a good 02/03 maf.. i would try the thermistor swap but i dont get how u make it stay there at all, without getting it sucked thru your TB..

mahanddeem

there are parts I would never ever buy other than OEM ... MAF and ignition coils are on top of them ....

RR5

iTrader: (6)

Yup my dealer bought 2001 maf is still working for me, been two-three months.

mahdlokg

It looked like there was one in there.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Is that a yes or n a no?

mahdlokg

No, I did not. Question though. What part of the MAF sensor fails? It looks like it is all plastic with the exception of the thermistor.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

I don't think we've ever tried to figure or even cared to figure it out. But here's this:

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...atomy-maf.html

mahdlokg

I guess my concern is that I'm not going to be able to get that thermistor to stay in there permanently. I know I've seen it in this thread somewhere but what seems to be the best glue/compound to use to keep it in place?

Also, the NAPA sensor has a modified TORX head that has a dimple in the middle and I can't find that screwdriver anywhere, so can't remove the sensor from the housing.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

I just squoze mine in there using needle nose pliers to tighten down the small clamps that were there, no glue.

RR5

iTrader: (6)

You can pick up a cheap butane soldering iron from Radioshack with some solder. Just practice on something you don't care about. All you do is wait for the tip to heat enough that solder when pressed into the tip melts, then you quickly tap on the item being soldered. The liquid solder will flow onto the parts, making a permanent connection.

I did this at work, in the parking lot in 10 minutes. No worrying about the IAT wire coming loose now.

RR5

iTrader: (6)

Harbor freight sells a security bit set, http://www.harborfreight.com/100-pie...set-91310.html.

mahdlokg

I took the sensor out of the housing for both the new remanufactured NAPA part and compared with my original OEM part. They look nearly identical to me. Both have the thermistor. Here is a closeup pic:

http://s565.photobucket.com/albums/s...okg/?start=all

The one on the left is the NAPA(2001) part. On the right is my original sensor. I cleared the codes and ran mine around the block. No problems at this point. Don't know what to make of this. The new MAF sensor ran for a week and then the check engine light was back on. Does anyone have any suggestions as to why the check engine light would have come back on? Thanks.

mahdlokg

Anyone have a comment? It looks to me like NAPA is selling a 2001 MAF sensor that is identical to a 2002? Hasn't everyone said in past posts that the 2001 MAF does not have the thermistor? Thanks for any input..

mahdlokg

Another question relating to my MAF installation: Several people have mentioned going to the dealer to have the ECM "flashed" for 120.00 or so after installation. One poster mentioned disconnecting the battery overnight would have the same effect. Does everyone agree that this has the same effect as a dealer ECM flash? Thanks.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

With my new MAF I didn't get a reflash. And no, the reflash is a software update. If your car runs fine without it. then don't get it.

mahdlokg

That's the question, really. To recap, after one week with the new MAF, the check engine light came back on. I cleared the code (1105, I believe) and again it seems to be running fine. If you look at my post #136, you can see the old & new sensors side by side. It appears that the new ('01 MAF from NAPA) has the thermistor. I'm going to drive it a while today. Would you think if the CHK ENG light comes on again, and I'm still pulling a code that looks like its related to the MAF, the ECM flash would possibly help? I appreciate your opinion. Thanks.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

No it wont help because the ECU is looking for a thermistor, but it should still run fine without one.

If you're like me and live in an area where your emissions don't bug you, I'd buy on from DAVEB whenver I saw fit, and then sell the current NAPA MAF (even though that sucks they wont accept the return) to a 00-01 owner and buy the correct MAF from DaveB.

If you still have your old sensor, then you can transplant the IAT into the one from DAVEB, remember to order the 00-01 version from DAVEB.

Also, someone on here found the correct thermistor for like 0.30$. It has to be in one of these MAF threads somewhere or PM Rochester, I believe he knows the details.

mahdlokg

NmexMAX,

Thanks again, but what I'm saying is the the NAPA '01 MAF does have the thermistor. Check out my previous post #185 where I link to photobucket and look at those two sensors if you have a minute, and tell me what you think. Thanks.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

So what's the problem if you don't have any codes?

All these MAF issues with different members has me confused.

mahdlokg

Sorry for the confusion. I don't have any codes now because I cleared the codes. I did have the chk eng light come on after a week with the new sensor. I cleared the codes and have not driven it for a couple of days. I'm going out now for a drive to see if all is well, or not. My main question is this:

If I installed a new MAF sensor (with a thermistor) and it ran well for a week, then it threw me a code (chk eng light on) and that code was a MAf code, what could be the problem? Anyway, I don't have a code at the moment. I'll drive it and check back later. Thanks again.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Generally speaking from past members experiences and them posting on here is that if it indeed does need a reflash, it is noted by very sluggish behavior accompanied by noticeable hesitation and not limited to a SES light.

mahdlokg

OK. Thanks for all the info. The car is running well at the moment, so I am going to go with it, and keep my fingers crossed.

deftflux

First of all, thanks for this write-up. I'm basically replying to add my experience with this swap for everyone's benefit.

A little background: I used to own a 2000 Maxima 5spd which I got in 2005 and had from 85k to 178k miles. I liked it so much that when I decided I wanted something newer with fewer miles and more features, I got myself a 2002 Maxima, 6spd, 93k, leather, tint, the works. (Stuck with 5th gen cause 2004+ they started assembling in the U.S. and, big surprise, various issues...) Anyways, when I began to experience the characteristic hesitation, I immediately recognized the MAF problem from my earlier experience.

Of course I'm sure you know my dismay on seeing the price difference between the 5.0 and 5.5 generation MAFs, which led me to this wonderful thread.

Anyways, the part I pulled out was actually a 22680-6N200. I see 6N201 referred to more often here, so this may be an even older one. In any case, I decided the chance to save $355 was worth the risk, so I ordered the 22680-2Y001 part for $87 plus shipping from courtesyparts.com. The sensors have some physical differences, but sure enough, the 5.0 gen part had a spot for the thermistor. I swapped the thermistor, squeezed the metal clips with a needle-nose pliers, dabbed some solder for a solid connection, and I used the soldering iron to melt the plastic and close the U that the thermistor sits in. It took me maybe a few minutes. This is seriously such an easy swap.

I forgot to take before pictures, but here is an after picture. On the left is the old part (6N200) with the thermistor taken out, and on the right is the new part (2Y001) with the thermistor installed:



Here is a close-up of my thermistor installation. It's as clear as I could get with my phone camera:



It's not pretty, but I'm confident that this thermistor isn't going anywhere anytime soon. I suppose I could have used glue, but I didn't want to chance something that could come loose and get sucked in through the intake. The melted and cooled plastic should basically be as if a single enclosed piece now.

As far as resetting the computer, I did have the battery disconnected while I swapped the sensors, but I don't think it was long enough to do anything, because the code from my short run into the garage with the MAF disconnected was still there. I used a code reader to erase the codes.

I started the engine, and it idled fine. I gradually revved it up, no problem. Took it for a spin and went easy on it at first; all clear. Took it on the freeway and opened it up, and the hesitation was gone! She pulled consistently all the way to redline! She's cured!

Granted, I just did it today and only drove it once, but so far no codes and she runs like brand new. I'll be sure to post back later for an update, but I think I have enough experience with 5th gens to tell that she likes the new MAF.

EDIT: It's amazing after how well it ran at first that the hesitation did come back. See my later reply for more info.

RR5

iTrader: (6)

I performed this swap while troubleshooting power problems.

Ended up replacing both pre cats.

Xpcgamer

iTrader: (5)

I learned long time ago that when dealing with MAF to go with OEM. I swapped my AM600 with a 2001 MAF and swapped the resistor. I reset the ECU and have not looked back. I still have that bit of hesitation so it was not my MAF but at least I have a spare MAF now.

Red91StangCT

Be very very very careful when using a thermistor that is NOT oem. Unless you find the exact same part number, the exact same thermistor, I WOULD NOT USE IT. Some people claim that there was a 10hp increase.....no kidding. Do you guys know that the IAT's have an affect on how much timing is added or taken away by the ecu??? So given the 10hp increase, i believe that the replacement thermistor used by said user is giving the ecu the wrong value, therefore increasing timing. All a nitrous user need to do is this swap of thermistors w/out re-checking his timing and there goes a motor.

Edit....which leads to my next idea....using a thermistor as a budget way to drop a few degrees of timing for nitrous use.......or add a few degrees if you are n/a and using good gas, 93 or a meth kit.

MintVQ35

iTrader: (1)

I just had a AM600-6N200 fail on me last week in my 02 and I went with the 00-01 from courtesy, swapped the thermistor last night (I just bent the 2 tabs together with needle nose), car runs great now.