Verification that MAF is Blown
#1
Verification that MAF is Blown
Info on car:
6MT, Frankencar w/Apexi, 89k, stock MAF.
Synopsis:
I'm fairly sure my MAF is blown, but would like verification before I purchase one from Dave B. Took it to WOT yesterday, car became hesitant, did not rev past 2500rpm and then eventually died (essentially stalled). Started up, then rpm's slowly diminished until car died. Took off MAF, waited a day. Engine was cool (55 degrees), threw MAF back on. Started and it held idle RPM. Would not rev past 2500rpm again. Examined MAF and didn't seen the small wire broken, but not sure if that's the only indicator of it blown. SES light is now on as well. MAF blown I take it? Thanks.
6MT, Frankencar w/Apexi, 89k, stock MAF.
Synopsis:
I'm fairly sure my MAF is blown, but would like verification before I purchase one from Dave B. Took it to WOT yesterday, car became hesitant, did not rev past 2500rpm and then eventually died (essentially stalled). Started up, then rpm's slowly diminished until car died. Took off MAF, waited a day. Engine was cool (55 degrees), threw MAF back on. Started and it held idle RPM. Would not rev past 2500rpm again. Examined MAF and didn't seen the small wire broken, but not sure if that's the only indicator of it blown. SES light is now on as well. MAF blown I take it? Thanks.
#2
Info on car:
6MT, Frankencar w/Apexi, 89k, stock MAF.
Synopsis:
I'm fairly sure my MAF is blown, but would like verification before I purchase one from Dave B. Took it to WOT yesterday, car became hesitant, did not rev past 2500rpm and then eventually died (essentially stalled). Started up, then rpm's slowly diminished until car died. Took off MAF, waited a day. Engine was cool (55 degrees), threw MAF back on. Started and it held idle RPM. Would not rev past 2500rpm again. Examined MAF and didn't seen the small wire broken, but not sure if that's the only indicator of it blown. SES light is now on as well. MAF blown I take it? Thanks.
6MT, Frankencar w/Apexi, 89k, stock MAF.
Synopsis:
I'm fairly sure my MAF is blown, but would like verification before I purchase one from Dave B. Took it to WOT yesterday, car became hesitant, did not rev past 2500rpm and then eventually died (essentially stalled). Started up, then rpm's slowly diminished until car died. Took off MAF, waited a day. Engine was cool (55 degrees), threw MAF back on. Started and it held idle RPM. Would not rev past 2500rpm again. Examined MAF and didn't seen the small wire broken, but not sure if that's the only indicator of it blown. SES light is now on as well. MAF blown I take it? Thanks.
#3
yeah..sounds gone...try unplugging the maf and seeing if the symptoms are the exact same
try the 99$ 5g maf over the 5.5gen 400$ one.... on page 1 or 2 on the 5G section.. someone just did this with pics said it worked great and saved them 300 bucks..
try the 99$ 5g maf over the 5.5gen 400$ one.... on page 1 or 2 on the 5G section.. someone just did this with pics said it worked great and saved them 300 bucks..
#5
#6
That wire is the IAT, piggy-backed on the MAF for the 5.5 gen.
If you get the 5.0 gen MAF replacement and swap the IAT, I'd be very interested in reading your experience on that. You seem to know your way around your car, MIK3... so this feels like a good test case for when mine goes. Reading this forum, that seems inevitable.
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...-pictures.html
Keep us updated. Good luck.
If you get the 5.0 gen MAF replacement and swap the IAT, I'd be very interested in reading your experience on that. You seem to know your way around your car, MIK3... so this feels like a good test case for when mine goes. Reading this forum, that seems inevitable.
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...-pictures.html
Keep us updated. Good luck.
#7
Well, I'm going to tackle the 2k1-2k2 MAF swap. The write up seems harmless. Just ordered it from Dave B. Told me his orders were a bit backed up, so he bumped me up to Express shipping free of charge. The guy is just awesome!
I'll keep you posted Rochester on how the transplant works out.
Thanks all for the replies!
I'll keep you posted Rochester on how the transplant works out.
Thanks all for the replies!
Last edited by MIK3; 11-30-2009 at 03:35 PM.
#9
Well, I'm going to tackle the 2k1-2k2 MAF swap. The write up seems harmless. Just ordered it from Dave B. Told me his orders were a bit backed up, so he bumped me up to Express shipping free of charge. The guy is just awesome!
I'll keep you posted Rochester on how the transplant works out.
Thanks all for the replies!
I'll keep you posted Rochester on how the transplant works out.
Thanks all for the replies!
#10
Nope not at all, Trust me, I went through it, I thought it was timing and a knock sensor, also i thought it was a vaccum leak so i replaced all the intake manifold seals, i replaced the fuel pump and filter and i still had the issues, If you are having any issues asi described i wouldent feel bad betting my pay on it, but i wont take it that far
#12
When you're done with the IAT swap, it would be interesting if you cracked open the MAF plastic and took pics of the interior.
Or maybe it won't actually be interesting
For $400, there's probably a half-carat diamond inside, or kryptonite, or something equally amazing
Or maybe it won't actually be interesting
For $400, there's probably a half-carat diamond inside, or kryptonite, or something equally amazing
#15
I guess.... A used 2002-2003 M5 in great shape commands a price of $20-25k these days, so the price of entry isn't really very high, but the maintenance and the upkeep will bury you if you're not a DIY guy and try to use the local stealership.
#17
Well, the transfer is complete and it was a success! Very easily done. Used cutting pliers to separate the two metallic ends holding the wire. Then used the pliers again to cut the plastic part holding the wire at its bend. Transplanted the wire to the 2k1 MAF and secured it with RTV at the bend. I'll have to go clear my SES light w/ my friends OBD-II, but other than that, success. Made sure to undo my negative battery terminal overnight to avoid any ECU read complications.
I will be driving it like a granny for the next 500 miles just to ensure a proper break in period. But, just under normal driving conditions, I can feel my low end has returned and it is a much smoother progression in power. Very happy overall.
Final price for the whole procedure: $91
Price quoted from dealership: ~$575
I will be driving it like a granny for the next 500 miles just to ensure a proper break in period. But, just under normal driving conditions, I can feel my low end has returned and it is a much smoother progression in power. Very happy overall.
Final price for the whole procedure: $91
Price quoted from dealership: ~$575
#18
Well, the transfer is complete and it was a success! Very easily done. Used cutting pliers to separate the two metallic ends holding the wire. Then used the pliers again to cut the plastic part holding the wire at its bend. Transplanted the wire to the 2k1 MAF and secured it with RTV at the bend. I'll have to go clear my SES light w/ my friends OBD-II, but other than that, success. Made sure to undo my negative battery terminal overnight to avoid any ECU read complications.
I will be driving it like a granny for the next 500 miles just to ensure a proper break in period. But, just under normal driving conditions, I can feel my low end has returned and it is a much smoother progression in power. Very happy overall.
Final price for the whole procedure: $91
Price quoted from dealership: ~$575
I will be driving it like a granny for the next 500 miles just to ensure a proper break in period. But, just under normal driving conditions, I can feel my low end has returned and it is a much smoother progression in power. Very happy overall.
Final price for the whole procedure: $91
Price quoted from dealership: ~$575
Be sure to follow up if things go south, but that's not going to happen. No no no no... sorry, don't want to jinx you.
Now that you have your old MAF in hand and pretty much useless, how about cracking it open?
#19
I also now have a MAF housing for sale if anyone wants one.
#20
Really, why is there a screen on the MAF housing? When you looked at that, did you consider removing it?
#21
My original housing wasn't really dirty at all. There was some topical dirt, but nothing much. I think the screen is just a precautionary measure. If by some chance there is a hole or tear in your air filter, it'd prevent something from flying into your manifold. I trust my Apexi, but I kept my screen on for piece of mind. I'm also not sure if removing the screen would mess up air-flow readings or not. I don't think that matters though.
#22
My 2001 was experiencing the "wall" anywhere between 3500-5000 rpms... serious lack of power and sucking gas like a V8. Finally replaced the MAF a few days ago. The car runs like new... no hesitation whatsoever and absolute smooth & quick build-up on the tach...
#26
#27
That doesn't excuse it, but I wouldn't assume something predatory and malicious on the Dealerships.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
TallTom
5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)
50
07-08-2022 09:54 AM
ballerchris510
3rd Generation Maxima (1989-1994)
9
09-10-2015 09:35 PM