both are "performance" air filter replacements sold at the popular auto stores.. now.. K&N is twice the price of spectre.. so is the performance difference twice as good on K&N or what? i currently have a paper filter FRAM.. I just did the GAB mod to my car but im afraid that this cheap paper filter will get really messed up for being so open.. i just want to have a little more airflow while also having something that will stand the conditions of having the GAB..

so which is better and what do you think would be my best?

 

Back in 2003 - 2005, I replaced the OEM filter with a K&N drop-in "performance" filter panel. Now, I consider myself a pretty sensitive guy when it comes to changes in my car, however subtle. Anyway, I got nothing.

GAB it up if you want to play with something that you'll probably notice, or do it up right and drop the factory airbox for a SRI or CAI.

My opinion to your question as to which filter panel is better: neither.

 

I agree with Rochester.
I would just go with a high quality regular air filter, (WIX) or a new intake system.

 

I have a Spectre cone filter, but my answer is neither.

Your choice should be the Amsoil Ea filter or the AEM DryFlo filter.

NO oil, no MAF issues, etc.

 

Any well-known panel filter is fine. Even with the GAB, it'll do alright. K&N and Spectre you'll have to oil, and that means running the risk of getting your MAF dirty.

 

thanks for the quick response guys! so what you are telling me is that i should just get a regular paper filter but a better version of it.. Will this filters go bad if slight water hits them..

on the other note.. i really want a SRI but i have a few concerns.. first.. i want to do it myself.. like buy a few pieces of tubes and make it here.. do you know of anyone that has done this? maybe a write up? and in that case which filter would be best?

thanks! and sorry for asking so much.. im just eager to learn about my max..

 

That's a laudable goal. And yes, it's been done a bazillion times over with many variations and not a whole lot of complexity. Get busy researching and you'll own this project in a way that's far better than just asking for a silver bullet.

 

thank you so much guys!! i love the org.!

 

FWIW, the "cheapo" custom intake tubes from AutoZone (made of shiny plastic) are the same diameter as our MAF tubing. You could pick up a few pieces of that, some rubber couplers, and an oil breather and go that route for about $30. Then buy an AEM Dryflow filter from somewhere...that'll run about $40-50. And a MAF adapter for about $10. By the time you're done, it'll cost about $100.

Another member on here used 3" steel exhaust tubing to build his own.

A final alternative: CosmoRacing offers an aluminum SRI for $65. The only thing is, I'd replace the filter it comes with as soon as you get it.

 

Stay away from *any* type of oily air filter, especially K&N. You are asking for trouble as your MAF will get coated with the oil from the air filter. Stay with dry air filter.

- Vikas

 

Stay away from *any* type of oily air filter, especially K&N. You are asking for trouble as your MAF will get coated with the oil from the air filter. Stay with dry air filter.

- Vikas

 

I ran an oiled filter for about 6 months with no problems.

If you can oil a filter properly and let it set up, you shouldn't have any issues. I just switched to the dryflow because it's easier to maintain and is actually doing a better job than my oiled filter did.

 

The problem with oiled filters isn't the oil itself, it's improper application.

However, if you use a dry filter, the point is moot.

 

K&N over spectre

 

I gotta K&N and I notice a subtle differnce if any. I guess it's the "thought" of knowing you have an oil filter in there that you are looking for some sort of difference. I've had mine in for almost 8 months now and I haven't had any issues.
Maybe I'll have to switch it up for the summer.

 

guys i have done some research and I actually learned a lot about SRI now.. my worries are these.. i see that the resonator (i believe that is the name) has like 3 little hose lines that go to the engine and to another part on top of the engine.. that seems like a butt load of trouble so i think imma keep that part of the intake system i believe.. unless someone can give me an easy way to get rid of it without messing anything up.. ??

another thing.. Autozone has this spectre MAF adapter.. do you think it will work? are the MAFs connectors universal size?

and last but not least.. for the airfilter i decided AEM dryflow but how long is the least it should be? like 4 inches? the bigger the better?

 

i have a custom intake that i made from spectre parts. i purchased the MAF adaptor and the MAF didnt fit in. are you talking about that piece or the part that goes up against the MAF?

BTW im using the spectre oil filter and no problems as of yet with the MAF..going on 4 months

 

also a pic of the part would help

 

this the spectre adapter im talking about.. that is $22

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...ndName=Spectre

its for conecting to the MAF.. but i mean the holes might not match..

and there is also this one.. which is only $6

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...ndName=Spectre

btw is there any other dry filters out there? something like the AEM dryflow but with a smaller price ticket..

 

I have used a drop in green air filter with good results in the 93 altima. It is now in my maxima and I am seeing a loss of top end over some time now. interesting it may be due to the oil in the filter. Never looked at it that way. Its a shame I could'nt carry over my post count from nissanclub but you guys here make me feel welcome and have lots of information to share. Thanks guys!

 

I would say see if you can find an AutoZone that has one of those in stock so you can see if it fits. Returning stuff ordered online is such a PITA. I'm sure if you skim through the classifieds here, you can find someone who's got a MAF adapter they want to get rid of.

As far as dryflow cone filters, I have yet to find one with a cheaper price tag. I know APEX'i makes a good filter, too, but I'm not sure if it's oiled or not.

 

As far as the MAF adapter goes, I bought one off eBay for like $4.99. It is aluminum and for older Nissans. I just redrilled the holes to match up to the MAF. Fits perfectly and is the correct diameter.

I had a cheap black plastic one from eBay and it freaking dried up and cracked from engine heat. POS!

 

The $6 one wont fit as the adapter holes don't line up (not wide enough). The only MAF adapters that look like they might work cost like $40.
http://www.cattman.com/ (look under the intake section)

 

My "silicone" couplers that came with my CAI are currently doing the same thing. I'm trying to keep them alive as long as possible by wiping them down with armor all from time to time, but it looks like they'll probably last for about another year and a half before they need to be replaced...

 

guys.. went to autozone and advance auto and found everything i need i believe.. now im just waiting for my paycheck to come in.. my questions are these tho..

1) AEM dryflow is great but when i was there i saw this :

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...%7CGRP2026____

what ya think?

2) there is a BIG vacuum line that goes from the resonator to the engine.. and the adapters that i found have no big enough whole for it.. does that mean i will need one of those mini airfilters for that or what?

thanks..

Pedro

 

Apexi > all

Please read:
http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/filters_test/2/

 

I don't have one myself, but I always thought that looked kind of interesting in the engine bay:

 

i always thought this was needed when going FI. Thought it wasnt smart to do if you were not FI. I could be wrong.

 

^^^
Typically, there's a rubber tube that goes from the valve cover to your air-intake system. I can't explain it fully... something to do with maintaining a closed system while equalizing pressure under the valve cover, at the same time accounting for oil that has particalized (sic) into the air. By funneling it back into the air intake system, it's burned up.

Or use this cute little filter. Either way. The first is probably more ecologically minded.

That's my best assessment. I'm sure there are better answers here from more mechanically minded members.

 

ok.. i will see if i can get the hose to it.. and what about that mesh filter?

 

BPI velocity stack + AEM dry flow imo.

Just mocked this up, needs some coating and a black coupler.



This is how I had it on the Kinetix with a 9" long filter

 

that filter is a bit too long!! haha.. one question .. do you use anything to hold the filter in place or the tubes with the MAF take care of it?

 

There is a bracket you can't see holding the clamp on the filter to the battery tray.

Here it is cleaned up and finished.

 

Very nice looking. I would try to clean up those grounds on your strut tower. relocate and loom.

 

I suppose that would look better, but I'm a sucker for function and those are very easy to get to despite being easy to see and are directly connected to the battery negative to 100% ensure good connection. Should I ever install another nitrous setup, I will rework my ground location and it should look more clean, though.

 

Well, after seeing this, I said to myself, "Hell it can't be that hard." About 30 mins later...

...I ended up using leftover Spectre intake piping that my brother had, capped off the two vacuum lines and voila'.



Thanks for the inspiration. Much easier than I ever thought!!! Battery relocation was super simple...

...going for a test drive now.

 

Nice fit. Good work!

 

nice! what did u use to hold the structure in place? like a metalic bar? can u show me a pic??

how did it drive btw? notice big diff?

 

I've had a K&N panel filter in my car for two years and 50k miles with zero problems. A few days after I installed it, I used the CRC MAF Sensor Cleaner on my MAF to make sure that any excess oil from the filter was removed from the MAF.