McSteve

iTrader: (3)

I recently replaced my knock sensor and installed NWP spacers.

The P0325 code, however, is still there!
I heard about people having issues clearing it. After a little experimentation I was able to clear it with the knock sensor harness unplugged (by someone's recommendation in another thread) and it was cleared. As soon as I turned the car on the code was back!

Is my harness broken? How do I find out for sure? I checked with a multi-meter and here is what came out of it.

There were multiple instructions on the org and also at nicoclub. I checked the connector F121 and had one end connected to the negative battery terminal and the other one to the connector. The resistance read 550ohms.

I had both ends of the multi meter connected to each connector and it showed open circuit. So is the harness busted? I have a speark KS and i checked resistance on each pin on that and the resistance was 550 and not open circuit...

How do I check the harness for continuity?

McSteve

iTrader: (3)

anybody?

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

Unplug your ecu, extend the MM leads and test for continuity from the KS connector to the ecu harness?

I'm still not quite sure what you exactly tested already haha

McSteve

iTrader: (3)

Sorry for the lack of clarity.

I did this procedure
Test 1 and the resistance was 550kohms.

then I did this

Test 2 and it showed an open circuit.

When I ordered the knock sensor they sent me a knock sensor for a 240sx on accident which I still have to return. I did test 2 on the pins on the spare sensor I had and it read a resistance of 550kohms as well. Hence I'm thinking if the wiring harness was working correctly it should display the exact same resistance and not show open loop correct?

And thanks a lot for the answer I just want to make sure it's the wiring harness before I tear everything apart again.

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

Ok, I see what you're saying. KS reads good in the connector but between the male and female connectors you have an open.

I guess the best way to make sure would be to do like I said above.

McSteve

iTrader: (3)

That's what I'll have to do. I tugged on my ks harness wire today and i ended up holding it in my hand... It completely disintegrated. I already ordered a new one.

As a quick fix I got some resistors from radioshack and soldered them to the leftover harness connectors. The connecter read 560kOhms resistance, so I made a home made KS Simulator. I plugged it in, drove to autozone, cleared the code...

As soon I turned the car on it came back! It has to be the wiring to the ecu then?
Recently I installed an O2 sim because after I got my stillen y-pipe it gave me a P0138 with the P0325

BLACKKILA.GTR

iTrader: (16)

same problem <---
it goes and comes.. i dont know wtf is up... like right now its not there.. but in a couple days it will pop up.. and i changed it twice

McSteve

iTrader: (3)

I just checked the voltage at the female end of the F121 connector. The Knock sensor harness -> ECU and it seems there are 340 Volts flowing through there....(?!?!)

@BlackKilla.GTR
how do you know it's sometimes there sometimes not? Do you feel a sudden loss of power in the low RPM ranges? Considering it doesn't trigger a CEL

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

OP: Yeah, I was gonna tell you to put in a resistor as another check, but if they didn't work, I'd say it's gotta be the wiring to the ecu.6

Black: Does it just trigger the code are is it also going into safe mode?

And don't worry op, if the engine goes into safe mode from the KS, you'll notice the power loss all over haha. The timing is so retarded that you can barely drive it, imo. In 90-100* temps you'd be lucky to go up a hill.