removing park/neutral position switch on a 5mt tranny? harness difficult to unclip
#1
removing park/neutral position switch on a 5mt tranny? harness difficult to unclip
Has anyone here removed the park/neutral position switch on a 5mt tranny? my car is throwing code # P1706 which is for the Park/Neutral position switch, so I want to replace it. The problem is the harness seems difficult to un-do. Is there any technique in removing the harness from the top of the tranny?
this is a pic of the actual switch:
Thanks
this is a pic of the actual switch:
Thanks
#2
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (29)
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,572
From: Middleboro/Carver, Ma
You think that's bad, just hope you never have to undo the auto trans connectors, on one occasion I even came across ones that were so bad they had to be cut & respliced.
Sometimes (often) the metal tab that holds the connector stationary can be a *****, using a long skinny flathead in a prybar fassion (Think leverage) will usually take care of that, but once in a great while you will have one that the mount will need to be twisted and worked until it breaks, no way around it occasionally so you'll need to zip-tie the new connector out of the way.
Sometimes (often) the metal tab that holds the connector stationary can be a *****, using a long skinny flathead in a prybar fassion (Think leverage) will usually take care of that, but once in a great while you will have one that the mount will need to be twisted and worked until it breaks, no way around it occasionally so you'll need to zip-tie the new connector out of the way.
#3
^^true story^^
Also, when your gonna remove the sensor itself, DO NOT try to pry it from the tranny with a flat head. It looks like you would be able to do that and it will pop right up, that is NOT the case. It will just snap and break. Instead, take a pair of pliers and pull on the middle part of the sensor, it will pop right out.
And make sure you have a drain pan underneath.
Also, when your gonna remove the sensor itself, DO NOT try to pry it from the tranny with a flat head. It looks like you would be able to do that and it will pop right up, that is NOT the case. It will just snap and break. Instead, take a pair of pliers and pull on the middle part of the sensor, it will pop right out.
And make sure you have a drain pan underneath.
#4
Thanks for the tips guys. I was able to get the harness un-done. Next step is to remove the actual sensor and replace with a new one. Local nissan dealership wants $40 + tax for it, ridiculous! I saw courtesy parts selling it for $17 + shipping, but unfortunately I cannot wait for one right now...
#5
[quote=essential1;7533660Also, when your gonna remove the sensor itself, DO NOT try to pry it from the tranny with a flat head. It looks like you would be able to do that and it will pop right up, that is NOT the case. It will just snap and break. Instead, take a pair of pliers and pull on the middle part of the sensor, it will pop right out.
And make sure you have a drain pan underneath.[/quote]
Yep, that's exactly how I got mine out when I switched to synthetic gear oil last summer (my drain plug wouldn't come out, so I had to drain through the switch). I just grabbed the plastic rib in the center of the switch with a pair of pliers, gently rocked it side to side a couple of times, and it popped right out. And you're right about the drain pan, especially if you warm the fluid up good (like I did) before pulling the switch.
Thinking the old, 15 year old switch might break, I had already ordered and received a new one (which I subsequently returned) just in case I needed it. Besides the possibility of the switch breaking, I was also concerned that the old O-ring might not seal - but it did. I too was wondering about the connector cable routing - it looked like a PITA. Glad I never had to do it.
And make sure you have a drain pan underneath.[/quote]
Yep, that's exactly how I got mine out when I switched to synthetic gear oil last summer (my drain plug wouldn't come out, so I had to drain through the switch). I just grabbed the plastic rib in the center of the switch with a pair of pliers, gently rocked it side to side a couple of times, and it popped right out. And you're right about the drain pan, especially if you warm the fluid up good (like I did) before pulling the switch.
Thinking the old, 15 year old switch might break, I had already ordered and received a new one (which I subsequently returned) just in case I needed it. Besides the possibility of the switch breaking, I was also concerned that the old O-ring might not seal - but it did. I too was wondering about the connector cable routing - it looked like a PITA. Glad I never had to do it.
#6
Is this an easy thing to fix?
So I ordered the part, as I'm having the p1706 ses code come on...
Do you have some detailed instructions on how exactly to get at this part and swap it out? I've gathered to pull from the middle... but I don't even know where I need to look... ie, jack up my car etc...
Some detailed instructions would be MUCH appreciated..
thanks man!
Do you have some detailed instructions on how exactly to get at this part and swap it out? I've gathered to pull from the middle... but I don't even know where I need to look... ie, jack up my car etc...
Some detailed instructions would be MUCH appreciated..
thanks man!
#7
does anyone know about how much fluid will be lost in the process of changing the switch? Also, for any of you that have this code with a manual trans. R u by chance having any sort of a hesitation problem while in gear? if so was this the part that fixed it? I have a 1998 SE manual trans with the P1706 code!
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