What do you do to make your engine look pretty? :)
08-18-2010, 09:19 PM
#281
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posts: 1,022
and not know how to use this?
Hey Rochester, I coincidentally just bought some Meguiars NXT 2.0 Tech Wax today. I've heard good things but I'd like your take on how it is compared to other waxes. What do you think? The last kind I used is the Mother's 3 Step stuff, which I like, but it doesn't last very long (a couple weeks). I'm really excited to try this NXT out!
08-19-2010, 05:35 AM
#283
Hey Rochester, I coincidentally just bought some Meguiars NXT 2.0 Tech Wax today. I've heard good things but I'd like your take on how it is compared to other waxes. What do you think? The last kind I used is the Mother's 3 Step stuff, which I like, but it doesn't last very long (a couple weeks). I'm really excited to try this NXT out!
Oh well, you're the OP, jowo9.
Maguires NXT Generation Tech Wax 2.0 Liquid (that's a mouthful, eh?). I just started using NXT this Spring, which would be 4 months ago. It goes on real easy (liquid, duh), and hazes quickly. Buffing is far less effort than paste, almost effortless, really. And the nice thing is that over-waxing into trim and rubber is no problem, it just buffs right off. In fact, NXT works quite well on glossy-black plastic. As to shine... I'm loving it. You should see my roof after claybar-ing last night and using the NXT. It's absolutely perfect, deeply reflective, flawlessly brilliant.
However, it does not last as long as a good paste wax, as knight_yyz alluded to. 2 months, tops... (at least, that's my impression, having done the car up twice now with NXT. And about to do it a third time this year because of this mishap.)
That said, because application and buffing is so effortless, you could easily do the entire car in a few hours as an in-between-detailing refresh, every month or so.
For years, I had been using Collinite Super Double-coat paste wax as a top-coat for surface detailing, and I still do. Great paste. That's the kind of thing you want to do in November to get you through the winter.
08-19-2010, 05:40 AM
#284
We really got off-topic, and I'm to blame here with my spraypaint snafu.
Oh well, you're the OP, jowo9.
Maguires NXT Generation Tech Wax 2.0 Liquid (that's a mouthful, eh?). I just started using NXT this Spring, which would be 4 months ago. It goes on real easy (liquid, duh), and hazes quickly. Buffing is far less effort than paste, almost effortless, really. And the nice thing is that over-waxing into trim and rubber is no problem, it just buffs right off. In fact, NXT works quite well on glossy-black plastic. As to shine... I'm loving it. You should see my roof after claybar-ing last night and using the NXT. It's absolutely perfect, deeply reflective, flawlessly brilliant.
However, it does not last as long as a good paste wax, as knight_yyz alluded to. 2 months, tops... (at least, that's my impression, having done the car up twice now with NXT. And about to do it a third time this year because of this mishap.)
That said, because application and buffing is so effortless, you could easily do the entire car in a few hours as an in-between-detailing refresh, every month or so.
For years, I had been using Collinite Super Double-coat paste wax as a top-coat for surface detailing, and I still do. Great paste. That's the kind of thing you want to do in November to get you through the winter.
Oh well, you're the OP, jowo9.
Maguires NXT Generation Tech Wax 2.0 Liquid (that's a mouthful, eh?). I just started using NXT this Spring, which would be 4 months ago. It goes on real easy (liquid, duh), and hazes quickly. Buffing is far less effort than paste, almost effortless, really. And the nice thing is that over-waxing into trim and rubber is no problem, it just buffs right off. In fact, NXT works quite well on glossy-black plastic. As to shine... I'm loving it. You should see my roof after claybar-ing last night and using the NXT. It's absolutely perfect, deeply reflective, flawlessly brilliant.
However, it does not last as long as a good paste wax, as knight_yyz alluded to. 2 months, tops... (at least, that's my impression, having done the car up twice now with NXT. And about to do it a third time this year because of this mishap.)
That said, because application and buffing is so effortless, you could easily do the entire car in a few hours as an in-between-detailing refresh, every month or so.
For years, I had been using Collinite Super Double-coat paste wax as a top-coat for surface detailing, and I still do. Great paste. That's the kind of thing you want to do in November to get you through the winter.
B
08-19-2010, 06:37 AM
#285
Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 136
I have been using NXT pretty much the entire time i have owned my sentra. I also use the professional line in my company. I have never had any issues with the product. Liquid polymer waxes only typically last three months, But i have seen cars i have detailed still look awesome after 6+ months.
You dont ever want to wax rubber components, even if it wipes right off. All waxes including ICE will dry out the rubber over time and eventually will ruin the rubber trim.
Paste wax is old news. Modern paints require a liquid wax. Liquid waxes are far less abrasive and apply more evenly over the surface. The reason why paste isnt so good anymore is because of its semi solid state. Applying it on the surface almost always will create micro scratches over time this will dull the surface. Its a definite do not use on dark colored cars
One thing that may help you guys with waxing is get a random orbit buffer or sander. I use a craftsman 5" rand orbit sander for my personal use at home. It has variable speeds and it comes with a nice foam pad that you can install a 5" micro fiber bonnet on. Using a polisher like that will cut you wax time in half, completely eliminate swirl marks, as its physical impossiable to create a swirl with a random orbit. It is also impossible to damage the paint with it. You can let it sit in one spot for 15 min and not burn through or damage anything.
Its a great tool that anyone can use and it costs less then $40
You dont ever want to wax rubber components, even if it wipes right off. All waxes including ICE will dry out the rubber over time and eventually will ruin the rubber trim.
Paste wax is old news. Modern paints require a liquid wax. Liquid waxes are far less abrasive and apply more evenly over the surface. The reason why paste isnt so good anymore is because of its semi solid state. Applying it on the surface almost always will create micro scratches over time this will dull the surface. Its a definite do not use on dark colored cars
One thing that may help you guys with waxing is get a random orbit buffer or sander. I use a craftsman 5" rand orbit sander for my personal use at home. It has variable speeds and it comes with a nice foam pad that you can install a 5" micro fiber bonnet on. Using a polisher like that will cut you wax time in half, completely eliminate swirl marks, as its physical impossiable to create a swirl with a random orbit. It is also impossible to damage the paint with it. You can let it sit in one spot for 15 min and not burn through or damage anything.
Its a great tool that anyone can use and it costs less then $40
08-19-2010, 06:39 AM
#286
I have been using NXT pretty much the entire time i have owned my sentra. I also use the professional line in my company. I have never had any issues with the product. Liquid polymer waxes only typically last three months, But i have seen cars i have detailed still look awesome after 6+ months.
You dont ever want to wax rubber components, even if it wipes right off. All waxes including ICE will dry out the rubber over time and eventually will ruin the rubber trim.
Paste wax is old news. Modern paints require a liquid wax. Liquid waxes are far less abrasive and apply more evenly over the surface. The reason why paste isnt so good anymore is because of its semi solid state. Applying it on the surface almost always will create micro scratches over time this will dull the surface. Its a definite do not use on dark colored cars
One thing that may help you guys with waxing is get a random orbit buffer or sander. I use a craftsman 5" rand orbit sander for my personal use at home. It has variable speeds and it comes with a nice foam pad that you can install a 5" micro fiber bonnet on. Using a polisher like that will cut you wax time in half, completely eliminate swirl marks, as its physical impossiable to create a swirl with a random orbit. It is also impossible to damage the paint with it. You can let it sit in one spot for 15 min and not burn through or damage anything.
Its a great tool that anyone can use and it costs less then $40
You dont ever want to wax rubber components, even if it wipes right off. All waxes including ICE will dry out the rubber over time and eventually will ruin the rubber trim.
Paste wax is old news. Modern paints require a liquid wax. Liquid waxes are far less abrasive and apply more evenly over the surface. The reason why paste isnt so good anymore is because of its semi solid state. Applying it on the surface almost always will create micro scratches over time this will dull the surface. Its a definite do not use on dark colored cars
One thing that may help you guys with waxing is get a random orbit buffer or sander. I use a craftsman 5" rand orbit sander for my personal use at home. It has variable speeds and it comes with a nice foam pad that you can install a 5" micro fiber bonnet on. Using a polisher like that will cut you wax time in half, completely eliminate swirl marks, as its physical impossiable to create a swirl with a random orbit. It is also impossible to damage the paint with it. You can let it sit in one spot for 15 min and not burn through or damage anything.
Its a great tool that anyone can use and it costs less then $40
B
08-19-2010, 07:43 AM
#287
If you guys are interested in the 411 on detailing... check out autogeek.net.
Its a family owned store and they actually carry quality detailing waxes, polishes etc which are way better than the pick up in the store ones mentioned in this thread.
Look for brands like Menzerna, Poorboys just to name a few... the list goes on.
For a car with age, a polish is more important to bring the gloss back. Something a wax does not help in.
I hope Scottwax provides some input here!
Its a family owned store and they actually carry quality detailing waxes, polishes etc which are way better than the pick up in the store ones mentioned in this thread.
Look for brands like Menzerna, Poorboys just to name a few... the list goes on.
For a car with age, a polish is more important to bring the gloss back. Something a wax does not help in.
I hope Scottwax provides some input here!
08-19-2010, 02:19 PM
#288
Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 136
Auto geek is good. I have attended seminars held by them and their, seminars seemed to geared more toward dealership detailing and detailing cars that never get driven.
I also attended mequires seminars and IMO they help you with more real world problems and defect removal. the seem to be aimed more at mobile detailing and average car owners.
I use 90% mequires with teh exception of menzerna heavy cut polish. I only use menzerna because mequires dosent have a heavy enough grit to cut quickly through 1500 grit wetsand marks.
If anyone is interested my arsenal consists of
Menzerna heavy cut
mequires 105 heavy cut polish
mequires 86
mequires 205
Mequires NXT professional
Mequires Professional Detailer
Mequires Quick Wax.
Mequires heavy cut syn wool pad, heavy cut red foam pad, Polishing yellow pad and black finishing pad
I also attended mequires seminars and IMO they help you with more real world problems and defect removal. the seem to be aimed more at mobile detailing and average car owners.
I use 90% mequires with teh exception of menzerna heavy cut polish. I only use menzerna because mequires dosent have a heavy enough grit to cut quickly through 1500 grit wetsand marks.
If anyone is interested my arsenal consists of
Menzerna heavy cut
mequires 105 heavy cut polish
mequires 86
mequires 205
Mequires NXT professional
Mequires Professional Detailer
Mequires Quick Wax.
Mequires heavy cut syn wool pad, heavy cut red foam pad, Polishing yellow pad and black finishing pad
08-20-2010, 06:11 PM
#290
An update on my recent overspray mishap leading to this epiphany about claybar... it's a few days later now, and I just finished fully clarbaring the entire car, while applying a coat of Maguires NXT one section at a time. Took a few days to get through it all, but I'm there now, and then some. Quite frankly, my car has never looked this good, and that's saying something, because, well, I got some pretty high standards and it's a PITA to shoot for them.
Anyway, I couldn't be happier with the way this turned out. It's an awesome thing when a problem takes you one step back, but three steps forward, you know what I mean?
BTW, claybar on the glass. Wow! (wash - clay - wash - wow)
Anyway, I couldn't be happier with the way this turned out. It's an awesome thing when a problem takes you one step back, but three steps forward, you know what I mean?
BTW, claybar on the glass. Wow! (wash - clay - wash - wow)
Not sure what that means...
08-20-2010, 08:24 PM
#293
An update on my recent overspray mishap leading to this epiphany about claybar... it's a few days later now, and I just finished fully clarbaring the entire car, while applying a coat of Maguires NXT one section at a time. Took a few days to get through it all, but I'm there now, and then some. Quite frankly, my car has never looked this good, and that's saying something, because, well, I got some pretty high standards and it's a PITA to shoot for them.
Anyway, I couldn't be happier with the way this turned out. It's an awesome thing when a problem takes you one step back, but three steps forward, you know what I mean?
BTW, claybar on the glass. Wow! (wash - clay - wash - wow)
Anyway, I couldn't be happier with the way this turned out. It's an awesome thing when a problem takes you one step back, but three steps forward, you know what I mean?
BTW, claybar on the glass. Wow! (wash - clay - wash - wow)
I also use NXT, definitely one of the nicest waxes I have used. After using that and claybar and a little ultimate compound my paint looked brand new
Claybar FTW!! def use it on the windshield, with a nice coat of wax too, its great!
08-20-2010, 08:25 PM
#294
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 19
08-21-2010, 04:26 AM
#295
Oh, that's easy. All you need is a garage, a supportive spouse, and a disproportionate amount of obsession. I'm thankful for the first two... a little worried about the third.
08-22-2010, 10:15 AM
#296
I'm wanting to re-do a lot of the wire conduit in the engine bay. Also known as "wire loom" or "wire housing". One of the things I discovered is that the clips that hold conduit against retainers are called "Robebud Clips." That's kind of interesting. This seems like a really good retailer for stuff:
http://cableorganizer.com/wire-loom-clips/
Anyhow, by way of actively doing something today, I removed the wire retainer bracket on the top-front of the engine (under the engine cover), as well as the one I'm using now for the Evap Solenoid. Then I cleaned them on the wire-wheel, primed and painted. They look fantastic.
Not sure why I'm doing hidden stuff like that, but what the hay...
http://cableorganizer.com/wire-loom-clips/
Anyhow, by way of actively doing something today, I removed the wire retainer bracket on the top-front of the engine (under the engine cover), as well as the one I'm using now for the Evap Solenoid. Then I cleaned them on the wire-wheel, primed and painted. They look fantastic.
Not sure why I'm doing hidden stuff like that, but what the hay...
Last edited by Rochester; 08-22-2010 at 07:33 PM.
08-26-2010, 07:30 PM
#297
A few weeks ago, rroderiques77 showed pictures of his new engine cover, and I commented about his worm-gear hose-clamps on the upper radiator hose, suggesting he use t-bolt clamps. Of course, I made that suggestion without actually using them myself. 
So Roy went and bought some, and they looked great.
They looked so good, in fact, that I went and did the same this week. Very, very content with the way it turned out.
I also replaced the hose with a new OEM tube, at $20 from my local dealership. I figure it was good maintenance at 62K miles. (I'll replace the lower hose next week.) Oh, and I scrubbed off the little white lettering, so the hose is nice and black. Some WD40 and very fine steel wool works nicely for that, then Armor All to shine it up.
Here's the upper clamp:
And here's the lower:
Then I replaced the crappy Spectre t-bolts that I bought at Pep-Boys for the SRI, with 3.125" clamps from an ebay retailer out of Hong Kong. I got lucky, and the ebay clamps are much better:
So Roy went and bought some, and they looked great.They looked so good, in fact, that I went and did the same this week. Very, very content with the way it turned out.
I also replaced the hose with a new OEM tube, at $20 from my local dealership. I figure it was good maintenance at 62K miles. (I'll replace the lower hose next week.) Oh, and I scrubbed off the little white lettering, so the hose is nice and black. Some WD40 and very fine steel wool works nicely for that, then Armor All to shine it up.
Here's the upper clamp:
And here's the lower:
Then I replaced the crappy Spectre t-bolts that I bought at Pep-Boys for the SRI, with 3.125" clamps from an ebay retailer out of Hong Kong. I got lucky, and the ebay clamps are much better:
Last edited by Rochester; 08-26-2010 at 07:38 PM.
08-27-2010, 05:35 AM
#299
Guys... has anyone heard of stainless steel "mini-clamps"? And no, not your typical worm-clamp design.
http://www.ultimategarage.com/shop/p...c341pf8p2flhb2
http://www.ultimategarage.com/shop/p...c341pf8p2flhb2
08-27-2010, 03:06 PM
#301
i like herbie clamps, http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...erbieclips.php
08-27-2010, 03:58 PM
#303
That's pretty dirty, Sooner.
You should probably close the hood when you drive around
IDK about those, Knight. They look pretty clever, and maybe hella functional. But they're fugly unattractive.
You should probably close the hood when you drive around
i like herbie clamps, http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...erbieclips.php
08-27-2010, 04:20 PM
#305
08-27-2010, 05:04 PM
#306
08-27-2010, 05:14 PM
#307
but here it is again
08-27-2010, 05:57 PM
#308
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 731
08-27-2010, 05:59 PM
#309
08-27-2010, 06:18 PM
#312
I'm not feeling the chopped up engine cover, or the painted caps. Other than those things, it's looks pretty basic. But you do get props for doing something unique.
And it's still more interesting than the truck's engine bay, that's for sure.
And it's still more interesting than the truck's engine bay, that's for sure.
08-27-2010, 06:18 PM
#313
Those clamps are damn inconspicuous!! I kinda like them..
08-28-2010, 07:07 AM
#314
OK, Rochester was making fun of my engine bay when he came to visit us up here in the great white north. So I decided to do something about it.
Step one, degreased the engine bay and washed my filter.
Step two, install a pile of blue titanium nuts...
Step 3 call it a day because I worked night shift last night. LOL
Well take a few pics first then go to bed...
I'm changing the engine cover bolts, they were freebies so I thought I'd try them out... better than the rusted oem's though
Step one, degreased the engine bay and washed my filter.
Step two, install a pile of blue titanium nuts...
Step 3 call it a day because I worked night shift last night. LOL
Well take a few pics first then go to bed...
I'm changing the engine cover bolts, they were freebies so I thought I'd try them out... better than the rusted oem's though
08-28-2010, 10:55 AM
#315
Besides, we all know your Maxima runs better than most, so its under-the-hood appearance just isn't that big a deal. At least you don't have rust-proofing gunk haphazardly gooping up every nook & cranny.Love the way your new blue-titanium pieces match the oil cap. And I really like the tapered allen head bolt on the engine cover. Makes me think about replacing my engine cover bolts, even though they're fine... I like the extra bling there.
Not at all digging blue wire conduit on the the hose. (What is that, btw? Air conditioning line?) Anyway, that's just flat-out wrong... wire conduit on a rubber hose.
But all in all, it's headed in the right direction. Keep going!
Last edited by Rochester; 08-28-2010 at 10:59 AM.