What do you do to make your engine look pretty? :)
08-14-2010, 04:05 PM
#241
No, not the TB. I'm asking about the sensor that's bolted to the UIM near the TB. There's a 1/2" vacuum line going in from the VC (I think) and out to the UIM. Now, I know I need to get schooled on the IACV, but all the relevant threads are discussion the 5.0 gen, not the 5.5. And then there's this:
So what is that thing?
So what is that thing?
08-15-2010, 05:40 AM
#245
It's the "Evap Canister Purge Volume Control Solenoid Valve".
I was just wondering... this would look a lot better if it were relocated under the engine cover.
"The evaporative emission system is used to reduce hydrocarbons emitted into the atmosphere from the fuel system.
This reduction of hydrocarbons is accomplished by activated charcoals in the EVAP canister. The fuel vapor in the sealed fuel tank is led into the EVAP canister which contains activated carbon and the vapor is stored there when the engine is not operating or when refueling to the fuel tank. The vapor in the EVAP canister is purged by the air through the purge line to the intake manifold when the engine is operating.
EVAP canister purge volume control solenoid valve is controlled by ECM. When the engine operates, the flow rate of vapor controlled by EVAP canister purge volume control solenoid valve is proportionally regulated as the air flow increases. EVAP canister purge volume control solenoid valve also shuts off the vapor purge line during decelerating and idling."
This reduction of hydrocarbons is accomplished by activated charcoals in the EVAP canister. The fuel vapor in the sealed fuel tank is led into the EVAP canister which contains activated carbon and the vapor is stored there when the engine is not operating or when refueling to the fuel tank. The vapor in the EVAP canister is purged by the air through the purge line to the intake manifold when the engine is operating.
EVAP canister purge volume control solenoid valve is controlled by ECM. When the engine operates, the flow rate of vapor controlled by EVAP canister purge volume control solenoid valve is proportionally regulated as the air flow increases. EVAP canister purge volume control solenoid valve also shuts off the vapor purge line during decelerating and idling."
Last edited by Rochester; 08-15-2010 at 05:46 AM.
08-15-2010, 01:46 PM
#247
You know something, 5.5 Gen owners... take that engine cover off, and there are like 2 dozen rusty old bolts all over the engine which could be swapped out for something new and stainless steel. The left valve cover bolts, for example. And a whole bunch of retainer brackets bolted here and there.
An idea which takes this engine bay make-over one step further.
An idea which takes this engine bay make-over one step further.
Step 1: Open the hood, look at the bling.
Step 2: Remove the engine cover, look a the bling.
Step 3: Profit.
Step 2: Remove the engine cover, look a the bling.
Step 3: Profit.
08-15-2010, 01:48 PM
#248
08-16-2010, 09:59 AM
#249
Any of you guys ever replace your Negative Battery Cable with something new and clean? It looks like a rotting old garden snake strapped to the tranny.
YIKES! I just looked it up: the OEM negative battery cable is almost $50!
In fact, the more I look at my engine bay (been doing a lot of that lately
no ish) the more I'm observing how the various ground connections to the frame are corroded. Hmm. I should probably unbolt them, sand them down, and bolt them back up again. Yes?
And what about the dozen or so wiring harness connectors? I can't even begin to name them all, but they're all dirty, with 8 years of grime deep into the nooks & crannys and individual wire inlets.
How do you clean those? I'm guessing you disconnect the battery first, and let the car sit for a day so the connectors dry before firing things back up. But again, how do you clean all those things?
YIKES! I just looked it up: the OEM negative battery cable is almost $50!
In fact, the more I look at my engine bay (been doing a lot of that lately
no ish) the more I'm observing how the various ground connections to the frame are corroded. Hmm. I should probably unbolt them, sand them down, and bolt them back up again. Yes?And what about the dozen or so wiring harness connectors? I can't even begin to name them all, but they're all dirty, with 8 years of grime deep into the nooks & crannys and individual wire inlets.
How do you clean those? I'm guessing you disconnect the battery first, and let the car sit for a day so the connectors dry before firing things back up. But again, how do you clean all those things?
Last edited by Rochester; 08-16-2010 at 10:03 AM.
08-16-2010, 10:16 AM
#250
It may sound weird, but while re-assembling my car ( a 2K1 max ) I cleaned all the connectors/socket with some WD40 and a tooth brush, it work like a charm and restore them like they are brand new. Off course that wont get rid of the rust on metal connection (that's another story ) but I also cleaned many rubber hoses with the WD40 and it remove all the dirt and make them shine and look like brand new.
There might be a specific product, but on a late night ( store were closed ) I just picked up a can of WD40 laying around in the garage and find out it does a pretty good job.
Sorry I forgot: As for the ground, I simply use a dremmel with a metal brush and get rid of the rust fairly quick. Good luck.
My 2 cents
There might be a specific product, but on a late night ( store were closed ) I just picked up a can of WD40 laying around in the garage and find out it does a pretty good job.
Sorry I forgot: As for the ground, I simply use a dremmel with a metal brush and get rid of the rust fairly quick. Good luck.
My 2 cents
Last edited by doublea; 08-16-2010 at 10:19 AM.
08-16-2010, 10:25 AM
#251
WD40? But that's a lubricant. IDK, man... that seems not right to me for some reason.
What about using MAF cleaner on wiring connectors? And then blow them out with a can of compressed air? (I have a can of both that I could try out.) That seems like a harmless idea.
What about using MAF cleaner on wiring connectors? And then blow them out with a can of compressed air? (I have a can of both that I could try out.) That seems like a harmless idea.
08-16-2010, 10:32 AM
#252
Trust me it work really well with the WD40 and I never experienced a hose or a connector degrading because the product is too strong. If you dont believe me just simply try it on a radiator hose and you'll gimme news. I'll try to post some pics later tonight.
08-16-2010, 01:30 PM
#253
rochester, look for an electrical contact cleaner, It will come with the little red pipette to get into all the small places. And it evaporates very quickly. We use LPS electrical contact cleaner at work all the time. It gets rid of water too like wd-40 but doesn't leave an oily residue
08-16-2010, 01:33 PM
#254
rochester, look for an electrical contact cleaner, It will come with the little red pipette to get into all the small places. And it evaporates very quickly. We use LPS electrical contact cleaner at work all the time. It gets rid of water too like wd-40 but doesn't leave an oily residue
08-16-2010, 02:44 PM
#256
I use WD40 to clean stains off carpets as well. Works like a charm.
08-16-2010, 02:59 PM
#257
08-16-2010, 03:05 PM
#259
08-16-2010, 03:07 PM
#260
I'll try it on something later tonight.
08-16-2010, 03:57 PM
#262
the g35 guys and the 350z guys have access to chrome/aluminum anodized caps for the power steering, windshield washer and brake cylinder reservoirs. Too bad the company doesn't seem to make them anymore.
I'd post a pic but my internet security program won't let me log on to g35 forum
I'd post a pic but my internet security program won't let me log on to g35 forum
08-16-2010, 05:59 PM
#263
There are simple spring-clamps on most of the little hoses... I wonder how they would hold up if they were painted? Should probably buy some new ones, and paint them with high-temp satin black. That's another idea which has been rattling around my head, looking at the engine bay.
You're right about WD40 on rubber hoses. It cleans them up with a nice, uniform black look. The result isn't so much a glossy shine, rather it's a satin black. Very subtle to the touch. I like it. Nice idea, WD40. I need to play with this some more.
MAF cleaner didn't work so well. I need to get some Electrical Contact cleaner and a few large toothbrushes.
rochester, look for an electrical contact cleaner, It will come with the little red pipette to get into all the small places. And it evaporates very quickly. We use LPS electrical contact cleaner at work all the time. It gets rid of water too like wd-40 but doesn't leave an oily residue
Last edited by Rochester; 08-16-2010 at 06:01 PM.
08-16-2010, 06:29 PM
#264
Contact cleaner likely won't work so well either, as it evapourates so quickly. Try the Wd-40 - spray it, scrub it, and wipe it away. Then, if you want to ensure good contact, go at the area again with contact cleaner and wipe away quickly. Reattach connection and give a light spray of WD or even better a rust inhibitor such as rust check. (Not sure if Rust Check is available in the States).
08-16-2010, 06:50 PM
#265
Senior Member
Thread Starter
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Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Alberta, Canada
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There are simple spring-clamps on most of the little hoses... I wonder how they would hold up if they were painted? Should probably buy some new ones, and paint them with high-temp satin black. That's another idea which has been rattling around my head, looking at the engine bay.
You're right about WD40 on rubber hoses. It cleans them up with a nice, uniform black look. The result isn't so much a glossy shine, rather it's a satin black. Very subtle to the touch. I like it. Nice idea, WD40. I need to play with this some more.
MAF cleaner didn't work so well. I need to get some Electrical Contact cleaner and a few large toothbrushes.
You're right about WD40 on rubber hoses. It cleans them up with a nice, uniform black look. The result isn't so much a glossy shine, rather it's a satin black. Very subtle to the touch. I like it. Nice idea, WD40. I need to play with this some more.
MAF cleaner didn't work so well. I need to get some Electrical Contact cleaner and a few large toothbrushes.
08-16-2010, 07:26 PM
#266
Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 136
The best thing to use for detailing your bay, is to use vinyl protectant. Its give a nice muted shine dosent attract dirt, and it protects the hoses and rubber items in the car.
Here is a detailing how to i wrote on my sentra site. I sponsor the detailing section and there are a few helpful how to's on there. I hope this help some of you guys.
http://www.thespecvboard.com/vb/vbul...ead.php?t=6441
Here is a detailing how to i wrote on my sentra site. I sponsor the detailing section and there are a few helpful how to's on there. I hope this help some of you guys.
http://www.thespecvboard.com/vb/vbul...ead.php?t=6441
08-16-2010, 11:38 PM
#268
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posts: 1,022
Hey, I just had an idea! I use "303 Aerospace Protectant" on my dashboard etc. I absolutely love the matte finish it gives compared to other protectant cleaners, and it holds up really well. I'm gonna try it on the various parts of my engine bay. I bet it'll work really well. Just a heads up to anyone who hasn't used 303 before. TRY IT! It's amazing... especially if you hate that shiny "Armor-All" finish on your dash. 303 brings out the black (or whatever color your dash is) and looks really great. (there's my product promotion for the day 
)
)
08-17-2010, 05:08 AM
#269
08-17-2010, 03:50 PM
#271
Ever use Stove Bright paints? I picked up a can at the Fireplace Store this evening on the way home from work. The paint quality is outstanding, and very even. No sputters or runny paint.
Bought a can of "Metalic Charcoal" to paint the spring clamps, and to repaint my FSTB brackets, so they all match my radiator retainers.
I'll post up a picture when they're done.
[edit]
This paint is too flat. Spring clamps look much better painted, but I think I want something metalic glossy. I'm going to hold off on painting the FSTB brackets until I find a paint I like.
Bought a can of "Metalic Charcoal" to paint the spring clamps, and to repaint my FSTB brackets, so they all match my radiator retainers.
I'll post up a picture when they're done.
[edit]
This paint is too flat. Spring clamps look much better painted, but I think I want something metalic glossy. I'm going to hold off on painting the FSTB brackets until I find a paint I like.
Last edited by Rochester; 08-17-2010 at 05:26 PM.
08-18-2010, 05:25 AM
#273
What just came back? What were you having done?
I realized this morning that I must have done my little spray painting projects too near to the car over the last few days. There's a rough feel to the paint, which can only be overspray drifting down on to the car. This is very distressing, particularly considering how nicely maintained I've been keeping the painted surfaces.
Wax and cleaners don't seem to do a damn thing. I think I need to break out the old orbital buffer.
Kind of unhappy right now. Look away while I cry...
I realized this morning that I must have done my little spray painting projects too near to the car over the last few days. There's a rough feel to the paint, which can only be overspray drifting down on to the car. This is very distressing, particularly considering how nicely maintained I've been keeping the painted surfaces.
Wax and cleaners don't seem to do a damn thing. I think I need to break out the old orbital buffer.
Kind of unhappy right now. Look away while I cry...
08-18-2010, 06:47 AM
#275
So now I've got another (unplanned) car project to tackle.
Oh well... there are worse hobbies.
08-18-2010, 01:37 PM
#276
I sent my strut mounts out for sandblasting, and i plan to paint them with por 15, then I will do the rad mounts and a few other pieces. Also ordered the front two water pipes that sit in front of the engine. They will be painted with por 15 as well. And the 2 oil cooler lines
08-18-2010, 03:55 PM
#277
What just came back? What were you having done?
I realized this morning that I must have done my little spray painting projects too near to the car over the last few days. There's a rough feel to the paint, which can only be overspray drifting down on to the car. This is very distressing, particularly considering how nicely maintained I've been keeping the painted surfaces.
Wax and cleaners don't seem to do a damn thing. I think I need to break out the old orbital buffer.
Kind of unhappy right now. Look away while I cry...
I realized this morning that I must have done my little spray painting projects too near to the car over the last few days. There's a rough feel to the paint, which can only be overspray drifting down on to the car. This is very distressing, particularly considering how nicely maintained I've been keeping the painted surfaces.
Wax and cleaners don't seem to do a damn thing. I think I need to break out the old orbital buffer.
Kind of unhappy right now. Look away while I cry...
The good thing is, its not difficult and you are already a detail oriented kind of guy so you might even enjoy it !
08-18-2010, 04:31 PM
#278
Hey John, I recommend Meguiars professional clay. They have a mild and a medium. Comes in a plastic tub. Grab an empty spray bottle and put a teaspoon of dawn and fill it with water to use as your lubricant
08-18-2010, 04:47 PM
#279
OMG! OMG! OMG!
C L A Y B A R ! How did I ever get to this point in my life
and not know how to use this?That is all.
08-18-2010, 05:33 PM
#280
Clay bar is a magical thing, it really smooths out the paint and a lot of imperfections