Ok so I just got finished replacing the throw out bearing, clutch, pressure plate, both output shaft seals and the drive side cv axle. Got it all put back together and now the car will not run. It will roll over all day long, but never actually start up.

Got my trusty test light out to make sure I was getting juice to the injectors and coils. I get a solid light when the key it on the on position, but it doesn't blink. So I'm getting powa, just no signal telling it what to do.

So I am thinking it MIGHT be the crank position sensor. I checked and double checked to make sure it was indeed bolted and plugged back in. It is, I also took the intake and battery off to make damn sure I didn't forget any connectors or anything.

I put a test light to the plug on front of the motor where the crank position sensor plugs into. The red wire has juice, but I do not have a volt meter to make sure the POS is generating a voltage.

My question mainly is, will this show up with a DTC while I try to crank the car? Do DTCs only get generated when the car is running or can you try to crank it and it'll throw a code should something be wrong? If so, I can get a scan tool and pull the codes to find out, but I'm tired of chasing dead ends.

 

check all your plug you reassembled plus the engine ground must be attached

 

Car started, not sure what I did. After trying countless times, the battery started to die. So we hooked it up to a F150 w/ jumper cables. Kept playing with it and it eventually started, but didn't seem to run right. So I unplugged the MAF to see if that was an issue and it almost died. So I plugged it back in, noticed that it triggered the SES light. Pulled the codes.

Code P0100 (MAF)
Code P1336 (Crank sensor? Not sure which one.)
Code P0135 (Emissiones/O2 sensors I believe, gotta replace them eventually)

Car does not run right, sounds like it's bogging down all the time. Sometimes after trying to rev it to ~2k RPMs and letting off it dies.

Crank sensor going out? Currently downloading the service manual to see which crank sensor it's referring to. I'm assuming the rear one that's mounted right next to the transmission in front of the car.

 

Those codes were likely due to crank and no start, or sputter starting, not necessarily the cause of the no start

My initial suspect would be the Engine/tranny to chassis ground, it is commonly missed and causes an intermittent no start, also boosting tells me that with enough amperage you are jumping the gap in a poor connection, so you have a bad connection or poor ground. That's where I'd start.

 

If you are referring to that tiny wire that's grounded to the transmission, I got it. It was a connector that plugged into a one prong (flat and wide, like a flat head screw driver) that was attached to the transmission. It got bent to hell and back, but I straightened it out so the plug would go back on it.

I did have it hooked to the jumper cables, only because after trying to start the car for about an hour the battery finally had enough and didn't want to roll it over much. Once I hooked the jumper cables to it, it still had a major issue with starting. I then put all the intake stuff back together (I had it apart, just left the connectors plugged in) and she started up right after that. I then removed the jumper cables and she still continued to give me trouble trying to restart. It would always take a while, so I gave up and just went and looked up those codes. I suspected, prior to the code being pulled, that it was a problem with the crank sensor. Simply because I tested the injector and coils to see if they was getting the signal to open/fire which they were not. This can be caused by a bad crank sensor, I think.

I know the P0100 code was because while the car was running, I disconnected the MAF while the car was running. It instantly threw the SES light and that was one of the codes. It hasn't done that since then. Just keep getting the P1336 code consistently.

I'm going to try replacing the crank position sensor (rear one) tomorrow to see if that fixes it.

Is there another ground on the transmission that I need to look for? Where would it be? The ground I am referring too looks more like a sensor connector/plug but it's attached to what appears to just be a flat piece of metal, attached to the transmission with a bolt. Doesn't seem to be a sensor of any kind. It's like on the top of the transmission, close to the wheel just past the transmission mount on the firewall side.

 

that's the ground Im referring to, but if you had to bend it or any such thing, I'd be installing a new one, reccomend minimum 8AWG wire and hook it directly to the frame, clean all mating surfaces to bare metal.
The stock ground (that thin wire) is garbage and will only cause grief down the road.

As for your other issues I can only speculate now, if you had the intake apart that is the reason the car wouldnt start if you were to ask me.... these engines are heavily electronically controlled they will not run with the intake system off.