Timing Chain
Timing chain
Thanks for the immediate response, but I'm looking for a more expert assessment of the problem rather than use Lockbite or take it back to the mechanic. Anyone else out there that can offer their view?
Tks,
Bob
Tks,
Bob
I am confused, when you had your "mechanic" replace your timing chain, did you not think he was "expert" enough? The bottom line is that the bolt needs to have lock tite and be torqued to specs. Hopefully it is not stripped. Did he replace the sprockets with the install?
dont know why you felt the need to change it...it isnt a wear item like a timing belt...
how "expert" do we need to be...bolt is loose...tighten it...
and you should find someone else to work on your car
how "expert" do we need to be...bolt is loose...tighten it...
and you should find someone else to work on your car
The work was performed because of ba guides. The kit I purchased had everything, hences, why my mechanic changed the chain and sprokets as well. Although my mechanic did not use a torque wrench, I know it was tightened as tight as humanly possible. What exactly is Loctite? How does it work? Will it work on a part that has so much pressure? All help is appreciated.
Bob
Bob
A tight as humanly possible isn't good enough, in fact it might be too "good" from your invalid apparent analogy of tighter is better.
If he used the FSM as a reference, which he better if he's doing the job correctly, there is a specific tightening pattern and specific torque to go along with that. There are reasons for this logic. (load on either end of the engine sprocket plane should be equally distributed, and if that condition is not met, there maybe undue load on either end of this 'face/plane', etc. which in turn may result in the loosening of a certain bolt/bolts/assembly, on the opposing end)
If that was not followed, he better do it again, and replace any parts if necessary at his own cost.
By the way, what year is your car?
If he used the FSM as a reference, which he better if he's doing the job correctly, there is a specific tightening pattern and specific torque to go along with that. There are reasons for this logic. (load on either end of the engine sprocket plane should be equally distributed, and if that condition is not met, there maybe undue load on either end of this 'face/plane', etc. which in turn may result in the loosening of a certain bolt/bolts/assembly, on the opposing end)
If that was not followed, he better do it again, and replace any parts if necessary at his own cost.
By the way, what year is your car?
Last edited by NmexMAX; Sep 8, 2010 at 01:18 PM.
It wasn't until 2002 when Maxima and Altima started sharing engines. And that ended in 2007, then reoccurred in 2009, but not anything 5th gen related would help you out unless you have a VQ swapped 97 Sentra.
if it's a an Altima then yep i'd bet its a KA engine in there...
and car manufacturers have torque specs for a reason...i'd trust the engineers know what they are doing...
and every mechanic should have a torque wrench for sensitive bolts ( i.e sprockets, oil pan bolts, etc. )
and car manufacturers have torque specs for a reason...i'd trust the engineers know what they are doing...
and every mechanic should have a torque wrench for sensitive bolts ( i.e sprockets, oil pan bolts, etc. )
Every mechanic should have several torque wrenches that very in range and size. He certainly wouldn't be my mechanic anymore.
I own two, even though a timing chain replacment is beyond my abilities and/or confidence.
I own two, even though a timing chain replacment is beyond my abilities and/or confidence.
i have owned several SR20 engines ( timing chain ) and have yet to replace one in 11 years of owning them ...
now timing belts..ugh, let me not get started
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and i thought i was bad.

