Stall/no start issue. PLEASE HELP!
#1
Stall/no start issue. PLEASE HELP!
My car stalled while driving, but the electrical was fine. It started back up after about 20 minutes. It was good for a few days and then decided not to start. It also stalled out while in park after driving it for about 20 mins or so. It never runs rough though, it either runs or it doesn't. This has been off and on like this for a few weeks, but now it won't start at all. I heard the fuel pump energize when it would start, and nothing when it didn't. The pump doesn't energize at all now.
I don't want to just assume it's a bad fuel pump, but do these symptoms sound familiar to anyone?
I've been searching also, but not coming across anything.
I don't want to just assume it's a bad fuel pump, but do these symptoms sound familiar to anyone?
I've been searching also, but not coming across anything.
#4
It cranks fine and the battery is strong. The CEL is on, but for an O2 sensor. I do remember some hesitation when punching the gas once on the highway. It still sounds like a failing fuel pump, but don't want to purchase one if it could be something else.
#6
I forget the exact code, but it was specifically for an O2 sensor. I was getting a code from the front cat, just to find out I waited to long to replace it and it blew an O2. A Nissan dealer pulled the code and I forget what the number was. How do I check for codes myself? I know it has something to do with the OBDII connector, but I don't know how to do it.
#8
Haha, ok I guess that makes me sound like a mechanical moron! I'm not a master tech, but I do a lot of the work on my cars over the years, but I've never had to pull the codes without a scanner. I just can't get to my buddy's place to use his lol.
#9
ok so you know you have to have a scanner so youre not completely lost...they really arent that pricey..but if you cant swing 100 bucks or more then just go borrow one from autozone or whatever your nearest store is (call them first)
get the code and come back - its easier to trouble shoot when you have a code or 2...
it could be fuel related, spark related, or ur maf
get the code and come back - its easier to trouble shoot when you have a code or 2...
it could be fuel related, spark related, or ur maf
#12
You have to remove the driver's kick panel, then remove the 2 screws holding in the ABS control unit (metal box about 6"x4"), then remove the black insulation over a hole in the body frame and there is a gold colored bracket held in by two screws about an inch apart from each other. It's the only one like it, and it holds a blue (fuel pump) and a brown (I believe sunroof) relay. It's almost impossible to see the relays without removing the bracket first. The bracket basically holds the 2 relays inside the fender, which is why it's so hard to see.
#13
You have to remove the driver's kick panel, then remove the 2 screws holding in the ABS control unit (metal box about 6"x4"), then remove the black insulation over a hole in the body frame and there is a gold colored bracket held in by two screws about an inch apart from each other. It's the only one like it, and it holds a blue (fuel pump) and a brown (I believe sunroof) relay. It's almost impossible to see the relays without removing the bracket first. The bracket basically holds the 2 relays inside the fender, which is why it's so hard to see.
#14
i guess it pays to read the whole post - silly me...my bad yeah you said at the end of your post there that the fuel pump does not energize now...that shouldve told ya right there (as you figured it out)
#15
Turns out that the relay was bad, but the car only started by pure luck after replacing it. The car didn't start again today, and I was able to pull the codes and the camshaft position sensor was also bad. I'll post the pics of the relay soon.
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