There are all kinds of strong opinions, fiercely debating the finer details. None of it really matters enough to get all strung out about, so spend a few hours trolling through the hundreds of SRI threads and come to your own conclusions.

Most opinions here are made by armchair mechanics (like me), who configure a setup and move on. Very few people actually test out multiple setups (except Sparks). And very few people have reliable dyno comparisons on the 1 to 2 hp variations; (except probably Sparks again. Seriously, this is right up his alley, and a conversation he's probably had about 2 dozen times.)

 

I only have data logging comparisons using time for acceleration under similar conditions on the exact same stretch of road and track comparisons. Nmex has done some dyno comparisons with various intakes as well.

I believe that when you have all supporting mods, tuning capability, and capacity to make high RPM power (6700+), a large bore (82-90MMish) intake using a LRMAF (82MM) could show some definite high RPM gains over the normal stock maf/3" intake setup by taking advantage of the venturi effect through the TB. However, I have no proof yet... Maybe in a few months. Still working on a couple of important supporting mods and the supplies to build the intake.

 

So basically....I'm cool without the midpipe? I just do everyday normal driving and am looking for alittle sound and acceleration improvement when I jump on it.

Its obviously better than a stock airbox...Yes?

 

The stock airbox with GAB mod will very likely outperform a SRI during daily driving conditions, the SRI only pulling ahead at high RPMs at wide open throttle.

 

What's the GAB mod?

 

ghetto air box... get friendly with the search function, will help you a lot.

 

Screw that!

No Ghetto Air Box!

 

You can lose power at low RPM/low throttle in exchange for sound and a small amount of high RPM power, or keep a modified stock air box to better meet your proposed goals of a daily driver with a little more pep. Nmex will eventually pop back in here and give you some #s or something along those lines.

 

I would like that! What does a GAB look like? Anyone have some pics?

 

Again I point you towards the search button. There are probably 20+ threads on the GAB to peruse.

 

like sparks said, search is your friend

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...us-ghetto.html

 

Yeah I just took about 10 seconds to do an advanced search for threads in the 5th gen forums with GAB in the title and came up with 70 threads. Many have pictures, writeups, and other pertinent information.

 

Yea, I found them. I'm not to thrilled about drilling holes in the stock airbox.....

Don't think I'm going to go this route.

I already ordered the aluminum maf adapter, 3" coupler, and a Blox filter with velocity stack.

 

Did Nmex also chop the bottom off the snorkel (ala ooglie stock cai) doing the GAB dynos?

 

is sparks the only one in this thread that knows whats going on?

 

Pretty much.

He's in a thread full of noobs, and he's willing to address their questions with experienced advice. I think that's pretty cool.

 

TB>MAF>huge cone filter FTW...

 

Yea okay!

 

Yeah, okay!

 

Oops... time to start trolling.

Good choice for a noise maker and top end power, Joeker82. Your butt dyno will tell you that it made good gains because of the lowend losses coupled with top end gains making you feel a faster ramping up of torque. However, the losses and gains will both be pretty minor. You may experience some loss in fuel mileage from you wanting to hear the intake wail and slightly less power at cruising speeds.

On another note, if you want to feel some serious butt dyno gains do a SSIM on your nearly stock car! It's best going from a working VIAS stock IM to a SSIM. Losing 30+wtq down low, 10-15 throughout the powerband up to 6k, then gaining only above 6k will make your car feel like it just gained 50whp. Ask me how I know

 

So, how would i go about doing the ssim? I just picked this car up in April 2010. So, Im looking for some HELP! Not laughs and attitude.

 

SSIM for an I30? I think you totally missed the sarcasm about SSIM and the butt dyno.

The help has been here all along. Laughs and attitude are just a bonus.

 

Interesting assessment... Defensive much? My last post was 100% true, not sarcastic. A SRI does make a few HP top end, and lose a few low end as well as the sound increase. That's just how it works out compared to the stock intake. Now the power gains may begin to become more pronounced as you are revving higher and have full boltons, especially once cams come into the equation. Call me a liar if you want, but the stock intake is designed well for lowend/midrange power.

SSIM, like I said in my last post, is NOT something for a nearly stock vehicle. Gains are only seen from 6k to rev limit on a stock car (maybe 5500 up on a heavily modified car) with massive losses in the lowend and moderate losses across the entire midrange. To even consider a SSIM, you are going to want headers/Y-pipe, exhaust or cutout, and an advanced tuning solution that lets you increase the rev limiter. Also, you're still trading a huge amount of lowend for top end power, which is great for a car that is drag raced often like my own, but maybe not for a daily driver where you will want the stock IM power curve more.

This is NmexMAX's dyno of Stock vs SSIM with supporting mods. (red is stock, blue is SSIM)


However, you may want to try a NWP block off plate and remove the VIAS. You only get losses from idle to 3700ish, then moderate gains all the way through the midrange on to the rev limter.

This is NmexMAX's dyno of BOP vs functioning VIAS (red is functioning, blue is BOP)


edit: just noticed your car is an I30... This SSIM business doesn't really apply to you. The 00VI is just fine untouched. NWP spacers may give some small midrange gains.

 

Apparently I'm jerking him around. All this time, I thought I was giving him sound advice based on way too much experience with different intakes.


You know what my favorite daily driver intake setup was... A real CAI (not Injen junk). Battery relocated or moved to the side, hole cut in fender for filter = win. Minimal heatsoak at stoplights, good lowend/midrange power, nice sound...

 

Sorry! I just hate asking questions that your trying to learn something about, and people laugh at you. If everybody could cut the noob crap...blah blah blah. This would probably clean up half the threads on this forum.

Thank you! All that information was extremley helpful. Is it extremely hard to add the spacers? I am somewhat mechanically inclinded!

 

The noob stuff is just something you'll endure on pretty much any forum until you get the lingo and become a professional with the search function. There should be a search function tutorial stickied on each section of the forum, because getting good results with it is a bit of an art form.

Spacer install is just as easy as removing the intake manifold to replace the gaskets. I'd say it will probably be around a 1-2 hour job your first time doing it, taking your time. Although they won't help you quite as much as a 3.5 since our manifold is made out of aluminum and the spacers greatly reduce heat soak, it does make the runners slightly longer and gives you a much better gasket match.

If you want a great increase in power all over the power band for a good price, look at getting a Y-pipe. Headers+Y-pipe would be slightly better, but not like it is for a 3.5.

 

Also, you may not want to hear it, but some lightweight 16" or 17" wheels with slightly smaller diameter than stock tires (at least 1" smaller than stock if it's an auto) will feel like a 30+whp mod over the G 18s. Wheels/tires are also some of the biggest/easiest gains you can make.

 

I know this might be a silly question...but, bare with me. Could I still run like, a stock muffler section? I don't want it to sound like a lawn mower or anything like that. I want the power increase with a stock sound....or close to it. When it comes to the exhaust.

 

Just a Y-pipe with stock exhaust should be fine considering you aren't trying to make the most top end power possible. NmexMAX is a big proponent of using an aftermarket B-pipe and the stock axleback/muffler.

 

Nice, I'm going to look into a y pipe then...any recommendations? How are the Warpspeed pipes? Thanks for all your help!

 

Joeker, consider yourself fortunate that Sparks is being so accomodating.

As you research mods on the 5.0 gen (same as your I30), you'll probably develop opinions that reinforce his advice. Like how spacers for your 3.0 isn't nearly the good investment that they are in the 3.5. And how a good y-pipe with your OEM exhaust manifold offers a more cost-effective gain than headers... as compared to the 3.5. And how the SRI is considered more effective than the CAI for these cars. And how the SSIM is a top-end mod for a tuned, big-bore MAF configuration. It goes on.

Most people spend forever trolling through threads that are focused on one particular topic. Occasionally, someone will ***** a thread and look for spoonfed answers. That usually doesn't work out too well (socially speaking), particularly when the noob becomes indignant.

And here's Teh Baby... love this image.

 

Thanks for spoon feeding me! Plus, I did thank him!

 

So much to do in this thread.

 

Oh noes, it's teh super-mod.

 

sparks covered it extremely well, right down to my b-pipe statements.


Details re: my GAB experience:

I saw gains of 9whp with the GAB. At first I used the hanger method. Then, I bought an extra air box so I drilled one out just for whenever I want to go back and forth. The dyno depicting 9whp was with the hanger.

Also, there are 2 or 3 additional members that dyno'd the same value on 6MT's (9-10whp).


Only 1 very minor detail that is just that, very minor.

The final dyno shown above is actually not a BOP, it was the OEM plate (valve still intact), the only difference was that I disabled the VIAS by unplugging the vac solenoid. (electrically, not vacuum).

 

I made it a point to follow the progress of other members who actually tested things and made comparisons. All.... 2 or 3 of you.

That's good to know about the BOP, I had thought it would gain more in midrange/topend than you dyno showed, and it appears that is still true since you didn't actually remove it for that particular dyno comparison.

 

Here's a better visual of the torque loss for that particular dyno.

 

Looks like it would be even more loss below 3k. That easily explains why so many butt dynos read "giant" gains from disabling the vias, BOP and SSIM. It also reinforces the fact that butt dynos are complete junk for detecting the actual amount of power and are only effective at measuring the shape of the curve.

Good thing I no longer fall for the butt dyno and instead use data logging to determine the time required to accelerate from one point in the power band to another in order to get a rough idea of the power under the curve in that specific RPM band. Of course it requires that I use the exact same part of road and identical atmospheric conditions (back to back tests) and a dyno would be better, but dyno time isn't cheap!

 

Hey Nmex, if GAB was +9whp, how did the SRI compare on the dyno?

 

That equalizes your comparison at mid-range, but certainly isn't equivalent to a BOP in the high-end. Wouldn't you agree that the point of the BOP is to eliminate the VIAS valve housing as an airflow impediment at WOT?