Factory axles STILL almost 2 years like this.......

 

BEST FUKIN PIC OF YOUR CAR W/ THE VETTE BLADES PERIOD..YOU NEED TO MAKE THIS YOUR SIG...ASAP!!!!!!!

SN: i can finally say you made a righteous decision allowing those G19s to go now..it doesnt look so bad now lolol

 

The vibration is coming from the axles busting (since you got new ones, about to bust).. Axles are like joints, if the angle is not right they will cause a awkward shifting which is your vibration.. A lil project for you.. Get two universal joints and a extension. Put the joints on each end and put one side higher than the other then turn.. Tell us what you come up with..

 

 

what about fabricating some trans and motor mounts to lift the engine and trans 2". an adaptor, or press in relocation bushings!??? I'd totally install that for myself, even fab it for myself. If our cars are dropped 3-4" and our engine and trans are lifted 2" for axle angle compensation, that should make a Giant Difference!

good thing I saved all my old mounts time to pull out the welder and press!


one thing I have noticed is that when I get new rotors my vibration goes away for a couple months...and b/c I'm a spirited driver they probably get overheated and warp a tad(my parts guys at the dealer say our gens are notorious for that b/c of the poor quality steel). I've replace all my axles 3 times, and my rotors 5 times, switched from the AP Racing 4 Piston Calipers back to stock......and I still have this junk. An engine lift with maybe a double damper seems like a new approach...and a basically free mod too. My neighbor owns a very large machining company with an engineering dept...maybe it's time to ask him for help!

 

keep us updated. in the mean time i'm going to lift my car in hopes to get rid of the vibration until i can get my motor mounts in

 

I know it was 2 in the morning and you were just brainstorming, but let me play devil's advocate here. Simply lifting the motor and transmission mounts by 2" is only the beginning of your endeavor. You'll need to address hood clearance, coolant hose length, exhaust clearance, wiring length, clutch linkage (if you have a manual), etc. It seems like a huge project to tackle, which would be exemplary if you did it, but doesn't seem very probable.

I would like to applaud your effort in thinking outside the box to address the lowering vibration issue. Maybe you'll get more members thinking of creative ways to 'fix' the problem.

 

I got vibation too

 

i raised my car..got rid of my noise from the axle and made my vibration (mainly noticeable in 3rd in a hard pull) vanish...i'm not going to raise it anymore, its already higher than i would like ...next to try is a NWP Tq link, should help alot more

 

well, I've got an auto, gonna check the hood and FSTB clearance right now, I need to work on the exhaust anyways, I'll check the wiring too(not to hard to modify if needed), coolant hose has plenty of slack for a 1.5" - 2" lift maximum. It's not a big project at all...i've already pulled the motor once, and the trans twice, built 1 Monster truck, and work on my grandpas classics plenty of the time...this is a small tedious job, but seems like it would be worth it to get rid of the vibrations...if I could come up with all the specs and then modify all the proper parts and make a kit with directions(considering that this works.
hood clearance may be too tight for comfort, but eh I wanted to install a cowl anyways, and the hood could use some fresh black paint!
eh...why not...i've got a second vehicle to drive for a week or so

 

Creating longer header sections isn't an enormous task. It's quite a bit of work relative to regular repairs and maintenance (including pulling an engine). You would find it difficult to prove to me that the lower radiator hose has adequate slack to compensate for a 2" lift. Perhaps, it's been awhile since you've seen that hose? Also, 2" lift would not make for a "too tight for comfort" situation with the hood. It would reshape the hood. This isn't a big project relative to building and designing a Veyron 16.4, but we're not talking about that or monster trucks. We're talking about a legitimate option for Maxima owners who want to slam their vehicles and not have axle issues. Finances, time, and ability would make this option out of reach for nearly 100% of these owners. It's great to dream. However, at some point, reality is going to determine what is talk and what is action.

With that said... Prove me wrong. I would love to see a detailed write-up from you with great results. Just know I won't be holding my breath.

 

first, I have nothing to prove to you naysayer ! I'm not offended by your lack of faith in your fellow car enthusiast, in fact i pity you a bit because you sound like you lack in the 'idea' and 'engineering' dept. Llengthening the downpipes/y-pipes is a sinch...no need to explain. I am fully aware of what us Maxima owners need as an option to battle the vibration issues so many of us face. I've disassembled my entire front end twice to chase this issue. I am a member to several Maxima and Nissan forums, and have posted and threaded about this for years now. Also, I haven't heard one word of positivity from you in this thread to actually help all of us solve anything . I don't give a $h!t about a veyron...I was making a statement that this is not my first time at the rodeo with fabrication. Also since I was able to completely design, build, fabricate, prep, paint, and assemble a Monster Prerunner truck in 40 days with not 1 ounce of help, this would be considered a bit of fun for me. It would be worth it to try even if I do not succeed. “The only real failure in life is the failure to try.” I'm not afraid to chop off parts, or cut open the hood to give my IM some breathing room. I'm not afraid to stretch the limits and boundaries of a car. So go ahead and say your remarks about what you think my skills are limited to...you're more than welcome to join the RACE to see who can solve this problem first ...or do you not work on your own car? Your profile shares NOTHING about your 02 6speed or your abilities to fabricate, weld, rebuild, paint...or actually contribute to this thread with hands on experience on your Maxima. Know that I'm not attacking you...I just don't like negative people....so be more positive, thanks.

wanna see my truck...NEW ALBUM!

'nuff said, lets get to fabricate!

 

lol

 

I wish you the best on your endeavor, 00Lightsout. Looking forward to seeing the progress on your engine/transmission relocation.

 

CHECK YOU MOUNTS

 

glad you were able to read the posts..........

oh, and glad you have proper grammar

 

nelledge If you have any suggestions that I should look into or look out for, I would love to hear them! Help is never rejected

thanks!


btw...I've already cracked open my auto trans to check the differential race bearings for any abnormalities, and found none. This indicates that the shaking is...
A. not damaging the trans.
B. located outside of the trans.
C. both A and B.
D. still an axle problem.

One member on here says that because some of the new aftermarket axles do not come with the rubber damper on the axles to suppress the vibrations from the factory, that you can take your axles to a machine shop or driveshaft shop and have them balanced. If any of you have after market rubber dampers on your axles, it couldn't hurt to get them balanced anyway.

 

^ when you looked into the trans what kind of abnormalities are you looking for?

I have a grinding noise from my front end as well, only a vibration through the pedals tho. I have already changed: LCA, Driv. side and Pass. axles, tie rod ends, and both hubs and bearings.

When the car is up in the air and wheels spinning you can hear the grinding coming from where the axle goes into the tranny on the drivers side. I have been thinking it was the differential but have yet to pull it. If it is I guess its time for 5 speed swap. I still have yet to solve this issue

OP- maybe this is similar to your problem. I dont think that its the mounts in your case either. But i do think if you raise up a little bit I am sure it will feel 100x better.

 

^^

I was checking the diff bearings and the race that is pressed into the trans casing for any overheating blue/purple on the race, and checked the bearing for any oval or cracked rollers. My bearings and race looked brand new still with 189K on them! the diff is perfect too.

My guess says that your bearings for the diff need replacement, especially since you've already replaced all those parts :/

what side is your noise on, driver or passenger?

 

Oh alright I might have to pull it and check it out then. The noise seems to be coming from the drivers side.

Ive talked to few guys and they said those bearings are a pita to replace. So I might end up going for the 5 speed swap while I am there. I have 180k as well on my trans. was it hard for you to pull it after so many miles?

I have yet to attempt it, but have been reading up on hlh write up. so I am looking forward to it.

 

Its easier than you think. take it slow, and think everything through as you go along. you MAY need a second set of hands to help you lower it out of the car slowly onto a sheet of plywood or an old rug, then just pull it out from under the car.

be sure to remove your trans dipstick before you drop it down.

be sure that the grinding is NOT coming from the driver side axle...the first joint coming out of the trans(inner joint) went bad on mine...so I replaced it.

go for it

 

this is how I chose to fix my vibrations:

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...e-balance.html

 

i'm thinking alot of it coming from the movement of the engine/trans when a load is put on it. which is why i'm thinking, firming up all the mounts and putting a tq link on it would solve the issue.

granted the axles are made to flex, BUT when slammed/lowered extremely low, the flex is already there, so when we put a load on teh engine/trans and it shifts back, theres an added flex thats not accounted for, therefore causing the vibration that we all feel when we accelerate. i'm animate to see what comes of your fix, and i'm going to try my route as well. maybe we will at least get one fix from either of our attempts

 

update via another maxima owner Danny..here's his car



he just recently did his motor mounts with ES motor mount inserts...and he still has the vibration at acceleration, he said it hasnt changed teh vibration during acceleration one bit. so i'm looking at this TQ link to be my last option to stop it. besides that way that the other org member is speaking of, with raising the engine. after that...im lost

i did see someone mention in his thread about using spacers to lift the engine....so i'm kinda curious on this and if its possible to do on the maxima

 

^^ Thanks for reading my other thread! You cannot simply put in spacers for the motor mounts, it's not a RWD with only 2 side mounts. I'm sill fabricating the new/altered motor mounts! Subscribe to my thread here... http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...e-balance.html ...keep watching, the mounts will be up soon

 

yea i'm watching your thread closely to see the outcome