HELPPPP my turn signals out
03-01-2011, 05:10 PM
#1
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 828
HELPPPP my turn signals out
okay so my turn signal has been out for a few weeks. I tried replacing it with the proper bulbs and still nothing. I don't know what to do. I've searched the threads and forums for info and location on the flash relay for the blinker, and no one seems to know where it is. I am aware that its under the steering column panel and I know its there, I just don't know what it looks like and I don't want to disconnect the wrong thing. Also can someone let me know where the fuse is for the blinkers so I can check that as well?? I tried to look through my maxima manual but that failed. I think its either the wiring shorted out or its the flash realy, I just don't know where it is located can someone point me in the right direction?
03-01-2011, 08:27 PM
#4
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 2
okay so my turn signal has been out for a few weeks. I tried replacing it with the proper bulbs and still nothing. I don't know what to do. I've searched the threads and forums for info and location on the flash relay for the blinker, and no one seems to know where it is. I am aware that its under the steering column panel and I know its there, I just don't know what it looks like and I don't want to disconnect the wrong thing. Also can someone let me know where the fuse is for the blinkers so I can check that as well?? I tried to look through my maxima manual but that failed. I think its either the wiring shorted out or its the flash realy, I just don't know where it is located can someone point me in the right direction?
03-02-2011, 08:40 AM
#5
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yes i do have 5.5 lights but thats not the issue, the blinkers worked fine before.
it is the front left signal not working. The hazards all light up except for the left front will not. Im thinking its either a short or maybe the fuse is out..not really too sure..also maybe the flash relay.
no cut wires, but ill double check to make sure. do you happen to know where the flash relay is?? i think i need a new one of them...and that will solve the prob.
The green arrow comes on and my rear left signal works, just not my front left signal..wierd.......
nope it doesnt flash at all, except on the inside w/ the little green arrow. The rear signal works but its flashing at a rapid rate. THe hazards work, but not on the left side it does not flash.
what could this be?
Last edited by NmexMAX; 03-02-2011 at 09:20 AM.
03-02-2011, 09:09 AM
#6
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Location: NYC
Posts: 1,786
From what you just posted, it normally sounds like a bad bulb or something local to that area of the car. I would check the bulb, socket and wiring for that front signal. A bad fuse would take out the entire flasher which isn't the case here.
Last edited by TallTom; 03-02-2011 at 09:12 AM.
03-02-2011, 09:22 AM
#7
yes i do have 5.5 lights but thats not the issue, the blinkers worked fine before.
it is the front left signal not working. The hazards all light up except for the left front will not. Im thinking its either a short or maybe the fuse is out..not really too sure..also maybe the flash relay.
it is the front left signal not working. The hazards all light up except for the left front will not. Im thinking its either a short or maybe the fuse is out..not really too sure..also maybe the flash relay.
You said you've tried installing a new bulb, this did not fix it, ok.
You assume the wiring is fine for the 5.5 lights because 'it used to be'. Well my friend, I would be willing to bet money that your issue is in that wiring, you spliced in to the stock wiring to install those lights, and I can pretty much guarantee the wiring has corroded, rubbed, broke, or something.
A blown fuse, relay, etc would NOT cause the symptom of only one bulb out.
You need to check your wiring.
03-02-2011, 04:43 PM
#8
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i checked all the bulb and connections to the wiring up to the socket. everything appeared to be okay...so Im still unsure..so if its not the fuse then what is it? bc its not the bulb..gotta be in the wiring.
03-02-2011, 04:44 PM
#9
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First thing man, ease up a bit. Just back up the bus ok, trust me.
You said you've tried installing a new bulb, this did not fix it, ok.
You assume the wiring is fine for the 5.5 lights because 'it used to be'. Well my friend, I would be willing to bet money that your issue is in that wiring, you spliced in to the stock wiring to install those lights, and I can pretty much guarantee the wiring has corroded, rubbed, broke, or something.
A blown fuse, relay, etc would NOT cause the symptom of only one bulb out.
You need to check your wiring.
You said you've tried installing a new bulb, this did not fix it, ok.
You assume the wiring is fine for the 5.5 lights because 'it used to be'. Well my friend, I would be willing to bet money that your issue is in that wiring, you spliced in to the stock wiring to install those lights, and I can pretty much guarantee the wiring has corroded, rubbed, broke, or something.
A blown fuse, relay, etc would NOT cause the symptom of only one bulb out.
You need to check your wiring.
03-02-2011, 05:18 PM
#10
Go to your local parts store and buy a 'test light', they are under $10, make sure it's a regular bulb type NOT an LED.
Then test the dam thing.
I really would put money on the problem being your spliced wiring to the signal.
Take a picture of the wiring you did, if you can, and post it also. This would help me determine what we're dealing with.
This is pretty simple/basic stuff bro, I'm helping you out cause I was green once too, but you need to help yourself. Did you do the headlight install or did you get someone to do it? Seems to me like someone did it for you...
Then test the dam thing.
I really would put money on the problem being your spliced wiring to the signal.
Take a picture of the wiring you did, if you can, and post it also. This would help me determine what we're dealing with.
This is pretty simple/basic stuff bro, I'm helping you out cause I was green once too, but you need to help yourself. Did you do the headlight install or did you get someone to do it? Seems to me like someone did it for you...
03-02-2011, 05:52 PM
#11
If you installed 5.5 lights into your car, then my bet is you have a wiring issue. It doesn't matter if it worked before. I would tear into it, and check all the wiring man...especially if you don't work on electrical systems on a regular basis, it's a lot easier to make simple mistakes that'll cause you headaches later on. There is NO fuse that would control that one little signal bulb, of that much I definitely know for sure.
03-02-2011, 06:31 PM
#12
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Go to your local parts store and buy a 'test light', they are under $10, make sure it's a regular bulb type NOT an LED.
Then test the dam thing.
I really would put money on the problem being your spliced wiring to the signal.
Take a picture of the wiring you did, if you can, and post it also. This would help me determine what we're dealing with.
This is pretty simple/basic stuff bro, I'm helping you out cause I was green once too, but you need to help yourself. Did you do the headlight install or did you get someone to do it? Seems to me like someone did it for you...
Then test the dam thing.
I really would put money on the problem being your spliced wiring to the signal.
Take a picture of the wiring you did, if you can, and post it also. This would help me determine what we're dealing with.
This is pretty simple/basic stuff bro, I'm helping you out cause I was green once too, but you need to help yourself. Did you do the headlight install or did you get someone to do it? Seems to me like someone did it for you...
lol okay thanks. Ya my bud thats a mechanic wired it all up for me.. I'm thinking its something in the wiring and seeing as he wired it he should fix it. So im going to take it back to him and make him fix it... never had any issues though at all with the headlights or signals until now.
thanks for the help dude!
03-02-2011, 06:32 PM
#13
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Posts: 828
If you installed 5.5 lights into your car, then my bet is you have a wiring issue. It doesn't matter if it worked before. I would tear into it, and check all the wiring man...especially if you don't work on electrical systems on a regular basis, it's a lot easier to make simple mistakes that'll cause you headaches later on. There is NO fuse that would control that one little signal bulb, of that much I definitely know for sure.
alright good deal, thanks for the assistance bro.
03-02-2011, 07:01 PM
#14
Post back when you/he finds the problem is in the wiring.
I hope he didn't use scotch locks or electrical tape, if so, you're going to have more headaches to come down the road.
P.S. almost ANY electrical hack job will work for a while, but eventually, it will fail. This is true of almost anything. So Never assume that because it 'was good' means it still is.
Just a heads up for the future.
I hope he didn't use scotch locks or electrical tape, if so, you're going to have more headaches to come down the road.
P.S. almost ANY electrical hack job will work for a while, but eventually, it will fail. This is true of almost anything. So Never assume that because it 'was good' means it still is.
Just a heads up for the future.
03-02-2011, 09:03 PM
#16
No, you don't want to use a test light because it changes the resistance in the circuit. Just use your digital multimeter (the 80s died 22 years ago, guyyyyyyyyyys!), set it to voltage, and work from there. Oh, and every hole you poke in the insulation is going to be another spot that breaks in the future. Keep that in mind.
TunerMaxima was spot on until he told you to use a test light to troubleshoot, then everything else was spot on again. You should listen to him, OP.
Yeah, you have to make sure you know what you're doing when you splice wires like that. Electrical tape doesn't do anything except trap in moisture and corrode the bejeebus out of the wires, if you didn't know what TM was referring to. Remember that the ground wire is just as important as the two wires for the high and low voltages sent to the bulb. Or, wait, the 5.5 gens have dedicated clearance lights, so you'll only have one hot wire.
<-- Not a pro. Just learned all this information last week about how to properly reconnect/splice corroded and cut wires for--YOU GUESSED IT!--turn signals.
TunerMaxima was spot on until he told you to use a test light to troubleshoot, then everything else was spot on again. You should listen to him, OP.
Yeah, you have to make sure you know what you're doing when you splice wires like that. Electrical tape doesn't do anything except trap in moisture and corrode the bejeebus out of the wires, if you didn't know what TM was referring to. Remember that the ground wire is just as important as the two wires for the high and low voltages sent to the bulb. Or, wait, the 5.5 gens have dedicated clearance lights, so you'll only have one hot wire.
<-- Not a pro. Just learned all this information last week about how to properly reconnect/splice corroded and cut wires for--YOU GUESSED IT!--turn signals.
03-02-2011, 09:28 PM
#17
Good idea takin it back to the guy that put them in. He'll probably be able to pin point the problem faster since he'll remember how he did it the first time. I'm sure it's something simple like a bad/corroded connection that you can't see by means of a quick visual inspection. He'll have to get right in there, and take the wiring apart.
03-03-2011, 01:27 AM
#19
No, you don't want to use a test light because it changes the resistance in the circuit. Just use your digital multimeter (the 80s died 22 years ago, guyyyyyyyyyys!), set it to voltage, and work from there. Oh, and every hole you poke in the insulation is going to be another spot that breaks in the future. Keep that in mind.
Test lights serve a good function, you need to know when/where to use them though, most idiots just go poking wires like you elluded to, and that's where the test light problems occur. Your comment about changing the resistance in the circuit is not accurate in this case, he would be using the test light to replace the bulb in the circuit, this is the exact amount of resistance he WANTS to introduce for testng purposes.
There are places where your comment is true, but this is not the case of most exterior DC lighting.
A DMM may show him voltage at the harness, but that would not indicate that he has enough amperage to illuminate the bulb, a test light would not illuminate, he could then install the test light on the positive terminal of the battery and probe the ground terminal in the harness, that would isolate the specific wire that is the issue, and that would tell the OP that he has an issue in the wiring for under $10, and with limited electrical knowledge.
His idea to just take it back to the guy who did it is easier, but is it better in the long run? OP, I suggest you learn some of these simple checks, it will save you a lot of money in the long run, especially if you intend to continue modifying your car. Most physical wiring issues I find are due to someone modifying the OEM wiring, the OEM wiring rarely fails.
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