hacim105

iTrader: (6)

Here’s my review of the Subframe Collars from speedymax99 on my 5.5 gen.

Let me start by admitting that I was quite skeptical about this mod. I read various reviews on this forum and I just didn’t see how it was possible for these to make much of a difference. Often when I install a mod I never feel a big difference. So needless to say when I finally decided to buy these I was not expecting much.

The only other suspension mod I have is Koni yellows/h&r springs.

REVIEW

So what are my driving impressions? To my surprise these have made a pretty big difference. The most noticeable thing is the steering feel. It is much tighter. The first few days of driving I even surprised myself when switching lanes on the highway because of the better response. I feel much more in control. The front end is also much stiffer and bumps and other imperfections in the road are not as noticeable. And body roll feels reduced. It’s really amazing how eliminating the play of the rubber bushings can make such a difference, I’m quite impressed. I recommend these for all. Kudos to speedymax99.

INSTALLATION

So how do you install these?

It’s pretty straight forward. In the package comes 8 collars. Four C-collars (two are marked “R” two are marked “F”), two lip collars, and two flat collars.
1. lift the front of the car and support on jack stands.
2. remove the front wheels
3. locate the 4 nuts to be removed (2 per side – 1 front and 1 rear)


(Note: for the following steps remove only 1 nut at a time. Also complete both rear installs before installing the front collars) 4. remove 1 rear nut (19mm) and washer, pry subframe from car, install one C-collar “R” in the area where you pried the subframe from the car, and install one lip collar above the washer. Reinstall washer and nut. Torque to 100 ft/lbs.

5. repeat step 4 for on the 2nd rear nut on the other side of the car.
6. remove 1 front nut (19mm) and washer, (these were a bear of a challenge for me because the room is greatly limited and they are on tight. I had to use my torque wrench and push on it with my foot while holding onto the car because I didn’t have the arm strength to break either front nut loose.) After that once again pry the subframe from car, install one C-collar “F” in the area where pried you the subframe from the car (I had to use a mallet to get the C-collars on the fronts) , install one flat collar above the washer. Reinstall washer and nut. Torque to 100 ft/lbs.

7. repeat step 6 for on the 2nd front nut on the other side of the car.
8. reinstall front wheels and enjoy.

Eirik

iTrader: (2)

So how is the front end "stiffer," but the bumps aren't as noticeable? I thought the SFCs served to push more work on to the suspension by limiting how much the front subframe/chassis moves. Isn't putting a buffer between you and the suspension softening it, rather than stiffening?

I'm curious as to who invented this concept.

Rods03Max619

iTrader: (5)

Nice to know and great pics on install that is how it should be I seen the ones that come with it I was like damn looks a little complicated but from these pics seems to be a breeze!!!

hacim105

iTrader: (6)

Where the front subframe attaches to the car has a lot of play because all that is there are rubber bushings that over time break down. allowing more movement in the subframe. by installing these collars it limits that movement even further because now the subframe isn't sitting just on rubber bushings, there is a spacer eliminating the possibility of the bushings ability to compress, thus stiffening up the front end.

And just as subframe connectors force the suspension to do its job, these collars force the front end suspension to do their job as well. Therefore these work similar to subframe connectors but to a lesser degree.

OHH NOES

iTrader: (3)

These work ALONG with SFCs. I have both mods and can say that these collars still made a difference. The SFCs stiffen the chassis forcing the suspension to do the work instead of the chassis flexing. These allow less movement in the worn bushings of the subframe causing less "slop" or play in subframe itself. With the two mods together the car handles and feels like it cost 20k more and came from Germany.

maxima dude

a nice set of washers from home depot that are the same size as the collars will do the trick ...ask me how i kno lol

Prophecy99

iTrader: (1)

i was thinking that too, note to self to pm maxima dude.

jeff5347

PM'd

jeff5347

Maxima dude , yea this doesnt seem like a hard DIY from HD just need to get the right stuff. Do you have pics of what you did?

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

I've installed a bunch of these collars and have nothing but great things to say about them. They make a significant difference in the steering and ability to control the car.

killer munkey

Great pics. What part name would the collars be under on Courtesy Parts website (they have goofy part names).

For example searching for collars i get 5 choices and only 4 of them sound some what correct.
For example here is one of them:
http://www.courtesyparts.com/49728a-...ml?cPath=1956&

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

You won't find an equivalent part on Nissan. You're not replacing anything with these collars, you're filling in a gap/adding a part.

matt06

pm sent, will they be as strong???

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

I hypothesize that they will be stronger since they will be metal - the subframe collars are not metal.

killer munkey

Thanks for the clarification. I think i'll look into a home depot washer replacement too. My steering is kinda sloopy even with new struts.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Check your tie rod ends.

killer munkey

I got the tie rod ends checked out by a local mechanic who told me their fine. I'm not inclined to believe that as I've looked at them and noticed the rubber is completely covered in black grease.

I'll to the tie rod and wheel bearing check this weekend myself. Thanks for the tip. If there bad i'll do the collar replacement while i have the wheels off.

D0X

How much do both the mods you did cost in USD? Can't help but get excited by your post. Also how hard would it be for someone just getting into the modding scene and cars?

jeff5347

I just did the DIY mod wit hsome metal washers. You wont find the washers at HD, at least mine didnt have them. I went to an industrial supply store that had bigger washers.
On the rear: Upper- 3 washers wit hslots cut out to look like the letter C
Bottom- Widen'd the ID washer hole with a grinder to fit around the cap and need only one.

Front - upper needed 2 with slots cut out as well
Bottom 2 washers -no mod needed for the washers except the one on the top notched to clear the subframe.

All went in nice and easy and took maybe 2 hrs total of cutting and bolting in.
I havent driven it yet but even pushing up and down on the front of the car there is less give now. Will take it for a teast later and will take some pics.
Ill do a liitle write up on what i bought and needed to do later tonight.

kukx30de

iTrader: (4)

Looking forward to that write up!

I have been thinking the washer approach too.

maxima dude

glad i can help lol... also the subframe bushings you can use metal washers on also... my motor doesnt move for anything... just gotta think outside the box sometimes

jeff5347

Yea sorry about that Maxima Dude. I never would have thought of doing this until Maxima Dudes post. Looks like this will be the new HD grill mod hahha

maxima dude

some parts that you see for our cars...usually little things you gotta sit back and say how can i do this for almost half the price and it do the same thing... just like the washers you did...the free sts mod...the gril etc...

jeff5347

Yea i know isnt it awesome.
Hey just curious, you guys want me to just post my write up to this thread or start a whole new one?

2000_MAXIMA_KING

iTrader: (30)

New thread

2000_MAXIMA_KING

iTrader: (30)

Link to said washers, and I'm assuming this works on any 5th gen since our suspensions are the same...correct me if I'm wrong.

zero2sixtyZ

iTrader: (30)

I'm going to bump and add to this review, supporting the OP's statement.
I just had these installed a week or so ago, and the car feels much more stable and responsive due to the limited bushing play. The steering is the most noticeable change, and for anyone who has complained about the 5.5 steering, this is where to start. Regarding the suspension, the front end of the car feels stiffer, allowing the suspension to do the job more efficiently. No disrespect to Jeff's DIY, but I'd gladly pay the cost of these well crafted collars again and again, as they hold huge cost/effect value. Not to mention, you'd prefer not to have metal here as it will rust or deteriorate unlike the Delrin material used by carnal_c30 here.

ranmas2004

iTrader: (2)

How much are these collars? And how long does it take to install?

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Here's the link:
http://forums.maxima.org/group-deals...e-collars.html

They can be installed in about 20 minutes.

Prophecy99

iTrader: (1)

i am really intrigued by these but i dont think they would work well with the LTB Stage II

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

With the LTB, I'm pretty sure the gap remains between the body and the subframe. Even if the upper collars get installed only, still a difference.

OnOiShNo0dl3Z

iTrader: (2)

Did anyone ever get the washer sizes and quantity?

Nexus67

iTrader: (23)

Had the collars on for about 6 months now. Suspension seems to 'absorb' smaller bumps w/o clunks and thuds, and larger bumps seem minimized.

And I always forget I have them...until I drive my boy's TE. I like his car and all, but it seems to just crash into smaller bumps. He can't tell the difference so whateve.

ranmas2004

iTrader: (2)

What is "LTB?"

nelledge

iTrader: (6)

Lower Tie Bar.

cdoublejj

does speedymax99 still make these? i bought the washers years ago but, never though about this.... how do you center the sub frame on the bolts!? once that rubber is rotted out you have a 1-2" ID on the sub frame collars, and way less on the bolt's OD!