Drop-in LED instrument cluster lighting for 5.5 owners. Finally found one that works!
#522
Im still messing around with the interior lights. Heres what i got so far
So as you can see pretty much everything is a different color and brightness
I might buy some cool whites for my guages (unless anyone wants to trade their cool whites for the warm whites i have now) and i used some of the same pink PVC that Rochester used on his clock for my BOSE, clock and ACC, as you can see it turns displays slightly blueish. At first i thought it was hard to see in direct sunlight but its not THAT bad to have to remove it.
I have the NEO4-WHP drop ins for the ACC buttons, i was thinking of using an led strip i have laying around for evenly lighting the buttons but i realized i was no LED guru to be attempting that
Heres a cool white HP3 i have in the shifter. The hotspot is white and then it uses more blue filters at the ends to try to make the stock halogen light appear even, making LED light appear more uneven
And then theres the window switches with their stock "lights"
I tried my best to make the camera take pictures as close to real life colors as possible
So as you can see pretty much everything is a different color and brightness
I might buy some cool whites for my guages (unless anyone wants to trade their cool whites for the warm whites i have now) and i used some of the same pink PVC that Rochester used on his clock for my BOSE, clock and ACC, as you can see it turns displays slightly blueish. At first i thought it was hard to see in direct sunlight but its not THAT bad to have to remove it.
I have the NEO4-WHP drop ins for the ACC buttons, i was thinking of using an led strip i have laying around for evenly lighting the buttons but i realized i was no LED guru to be attempting that
Heres a cool white HP3 i have in the shifter. The hotspot is white and then it uses more blue filters at the ends to try to make the stock halogen light appear even, making LED light appear more uneven
And then theres the window switches with their stock "lights"
I tried my best to make the camera take pictures as close to real life colors as possible
#523
#524
got my warm white and installed today...3 of them are very good.. the other one, I dont know whats the problem...it just wont light up, I tried flip the led, I tried put the original bulb in , still no luck. I think the wedge is broken...but I dont know where I screwed up...Where can I get the wedges? what is the size? my car is 03 maxima se.
thanks..
thanks..
#525
I know what I just said wasn't exactly the most precise instructions but my best advice is just keep pulling on it and release anything that is keeping it down. The letters are on a separate plate that isn't very secure so careful not to lose those.
got my warm white and installed today...3 of them are very good.. the other one, I dont know whats the problem...it just wont light up, I tried flip the led, I tried put the original bulb in , still no luck. I think the wedge is broken...but I dont know where I screwed up...Where can I get the wedges? what is the size? my car is 03 maxima se.
thanks..
thanks..
Last edited by LongoTE; 08-30-2011 at 02:47 PM.
#527
got my warm white and installed today...3 of them are very good.. the other one, I dont know whats the problem...it just wont light up, I tried flip the led, I tried put the original bulb in , still no luck. I think the wedge is broken...but I dont know where I screwed up...Where can I get the wedges? what is the size? my car is 03 maxima se.
thanks..
thanks..
#528
Pop the plastic that's under the leather gearshift downward and then get a good grip on the selector and unscrew the leather ****. You can't pull the silver plate off unless you remove the ****. Your ashtray trim should already be off
#529
Ok cool. I saw that you were having a problem with hotspots with the gear illumination. Is it possible to put an led strip bellow there with a 168 socket?
#530
An led strip would be perfect. I'm just too lazy to go change it. In a 5.5 it's not a 168 base but it is a 74 base just like the gauges. You could remove the power wired from the base and power a strip with it.
#531
So would this
http://www.v-leds.com/strip-lights/a...r-reviews.html
And
http://www.v-leds.com/strip-lights/w...ed-6-inch.html
Be a good combination?
I wanted to put LEDs in my HVAC but the single bulbs had unbearable hotspots. Wouldn't the same idea be good for this application?
http://www.v-leds.com/strip-lights/a...r-reviews.html
And
http://www.v-leds.com/strip-lights/w...ed-6-inch.html
Be a good combination?
I wanted to put LEDs in my HVAC but the single bulbs had unbearable hotspots. Wouldn't the same idea be good for this application?
#532
It would be a good idea to use a strip. It would be a better idea to have it powered externally so you dont risk your AC controls. I thought of using a strip for the buttons but my strip was a different color than the white HPLED that i think would be needed for the fan selector. (an LED strip wouldnt fit all the way across between the buttons)
This is the inside of the automatic AC controls
I think you might need all three lights installed to allow them to light up but you can see from the picture an led strip WILL fit nicely in place of the left 2 lights.
Heres a thought, Looking at the board now, you could maybe shave down an LED strip to squeeze by the buttons or probably run two separate LED strips from both the left and the right sides of the board and then wire them into that little T5 light that shines downward onto the ashtray area.
This is the inside of the automatic AC controls
I think you might need all three lights installed to allow them to light up but you can see from the picture an led strip WILL fit nicely in place of the left 2 lights.
Heres a thought, Looking at the board now, you could maybe shave down an LED strip to squeeze by the buttons or probably run two separate LED strips from both the left and the right sides of the board and then wire them into that little T5 light that shines downward onto the ashtray area.
#533
actually I have two more those LEDs, and I tried them.. still not lit up...Never mind, just ordered a new base.. Thanks though~
#534
It would be a good idea to use a strip. It would be a better idea to have it powered externally so you dont risk your AC controls. I thought of using a strip for the buttons but my strip was a different color than the white HPLED that i think would be needed for the fan selector. (an LED strip wouldnt fit all the way across between the buttons)
This is the inside of the automatic AC controls
I think you might need all three lights installed to allow them to light up but you can see from the picture an led strip WILL fit nicely in place of the left 2 lights.
Heres a thought, Looking at the board now, you could maybe shave down an LED strip to squeeze by the buttons or probably run two separate LED strips from both the left and the right sides of the board and then wire them into that little T5 light that shines downward onto the ashtray area.
This is the inside of the automatic AC controls
I think you might need all three lights installed to allow them to light up but you can see from the picture an led strip WILL fit nicely in place of the left 2 lights.
Heres a thought, Looking at the board now, you could maybe shave down an LED strip to squeeze by the buttons or probably run two separate LED strips from both the left and the right sides of the board and then wire them into that little T5 light that shines downward onto the ashtray area.
#535
Can you post the information about what base you ordered and where you ordered it from, if other than SuperBrightLEDs that is. That way when someone asks next time we'll know.
#536
I need to redo that too though, I have sweet azz SMD's in now, so damn small you can hardly see them at all, but they're about 4 times brighter than the ones shown, and the light shines 180*
This thread is getting OT methinks, too much customization talk for a 'drop-in' thread.
#537
I bought them on ebay, not shipped yet.. The part number is 26262-01P40.
Dealers have them for 5.83 each I think. Not bad, but my local dealers dont have them in stock so I just get them online~
#539
Thanks for the awesome right-up!!! Not sure if anyone posted anything about green bulbs, but I just installed them and they look amamzing! They defenitely look better then the picture...very uniform color and no hotspots that I can tell. Thanks again!!!
image host
image host
#541
Thanks for the awesome right-up!!! Not sure if anyone posted anything about green bulbs, but I just installed them and they look amamzing! They defenitely look better then the picture...very uniform color and no hotspots that I can tell. Thanks again!!!
image host
image host
Thank you so much for posting man! That looks great!
#542
Thanks for the awesome right-up!!! Not sure if anyone posted anything about green bulbs, but I just installed them and they look amamzing! They defenitely look better then the picture...very uniform color and no hotspots that I can tell. Thanks again!!!
image host
image host
#543
OK I will let another one of my 'tricks' out of the bag for you guys.
"Warm White" LED's Produce a colour output/spectrum almost identical to Incandecents, they are the only LED I've found that can replicate stock intentions regarding tint/colour.
The truth is, they're actually Better. In my testing, I've found that Warm white brings out more vibrant colour, as well, LED's don't change colour over time, so the effect will last for as long as you own the car.
The one downfall is Warm white is not as bright as Cool White, but if you want to keep the stock colouring, this is one direction to go.
This is one of my jobs for people who just want brighter gauges, or brighter gauges with illuminated needles.
Here's the stock Illumination, with BRAND NEW INCANDECENT BULBS, for proper comparison. The Tach/Temp are stock, the Speedo/Fuel gauge are my blue LED Conversion:
Here's an example of one of my tests, in this picture, the Temp Gauge and Tach are illuminated with Warm White LEDs, in stock locations. It's a subtle difference, but the colours are more vibrant, and slightly brighter. You can imagine what it can look like with more than just one LED in the stock locations, or with needles illuminated:
Here is the Temp Gauge test, Single LED Warm White in stock Location, and Needle illumination with Warm white LED as well:
And for fun, this is the same except I have Blue Needle illumination under the Tach:
I can't wait to do a Warm White conversion on an SE, that's going to look great.
"Warm White" LED's Produce a colour output/spectrum almost identical to Incandecents, they are the only LED I've found that can replicate stock intentions regarding tint/colour.
The truth is, they're actually Better. In my testing, I've found that Warm white brings out more vibrant colour, as well, LED's don't change colour over time, so the effect will last for as long as you own the car.
The one downfall is Warm white is not as bright as Cool White, but if you want to keep the stock colouring, this is one direction to go.
This is one of my jobs for people who just want brighter gauges, or brighter gauges with illuminated needles.
Here's the stock Illumination, with BRAND NEW INCANDECENT BULBS, for proper comparison. The Tach/Temp are stock, the Speedo/Fuel gauge are my blue LED Conversion:
Here's an example of one of my tests, in this picture, the Temp Gauge and Tach are illuminated with Warm White LEDs, in stock locations. It's a subtle difference, but the colours are more vibrant, and slightly brighter. You can imagine what it can look like with more than just one LED in the stock locations, or with needles illuminated:
Here is the Temp Gauge test, Single LED Warm White in stock Location, and Needle illumination with Warm white LED as well:
And for fun, this is the same except I have Blue Needle illumination under the Tach:
I can't wait to do a Warm White conversion on an SE, that's going to look great.
#545
ok got a question what do you mean by needle light up dont they light up stock or no? i have and 02 maxima 5.5 i think and i have the four leds already and was wondering since i will have the cluster out if the leds will light up the needles also or is that something else i have to do they are the 74 with 360 degree illumination. putting them in tomorrow i guess ill find out then .
#546
Thanks for the awesome right-up!!! Not sure if anyone posted anything about green bulbs, but I just installed them and they look amamzing! They defenitely look better then the picture...very uniform color and no hotspots that I can tell. Thanks again!!!
image host
image host
However, when you say there aren't any hotspots... no, they're right there in the picture at the expected locations. It's going to happen no matter what the bulb or color, unless you wire in new LED's like Tunermax does.
Last edited by Rochester; 09-05-2011 at 07:35 AM.
#547
Creative and different. Not my taste, and I don't care for the way the red needles all but disappear... but thumbs up for trying something that people here didn't do. And from your SN I gather you have a green thing going on, so more power to you.
However, when you say there aren't any hotspots... no, they're right there in the picture at the expected locations. It's going to happen no matter what the bulb or color, unless you wire in new LED's like Tunermax does.
However, when you say there aren't any hotspots... no, they're right there in the picture at the expected locations. It's going to happen no matter what the bulb or color, unless you wire in new LED's like Tunermax does.
As for the hotspot thing, I have a trick for fixing that. Do you guys think there is enough interest for me to make the piece for isolating the hotspots? I could just make them and ship them out to you guys as needed, cost would be $7 + shipping. Installation is fairly simple, just peel and stick style.
#548
Creative and different. Not my taste, and I don't care for the way the red needles all but disappear... but thumbs up for trying something that people here didn't do. And from your SN I gather you have a green thing going on, so more power to you.
However, when you say there aren't any hotspots... no, they're right there in the picture at the expected locations. It's going to happen no matter what the bulb or color, unless you wire in new LED's like Tunermax does.
However, when you say there aren't any hotspots... no, they're right there in the picture at the expected locations. It's going to happen no matter what the bulb or color, unless you wire in new LED's like Tunermax does.
#549
The needles will light up just like stock do, maybe a bit brighter, but not like my pictures, in those picutres I actually custom-installed LED's under the needles.
Yeah, reminds me personally of my old '97, I did that car out in green it was very easy on the eyes. That was my first LED project
Yeah, reminds me personally of my old '97, I did that car out in green it was very easy on the eyes. That was my first LED project
#550
Sorry I can't help you more. FYI, the 4th gen gauges are set up almost exactly the same, and that's where I was going to look first for testing.
I have a 4th gen fuel gauge and a 5th gen gauge cluster with all needls, I can check the fuel gauge needle for you if you want.
#553
#554
It would be a good idea to use a strip. It would be a better idea to have it powered externally so you dont risk your AC controls. I thought of using a strip for the buttons but my strip was a different color than the white HPLED that i think would be needed for the fan selector. (an LED strip wouldnt fit all the way across between the buttons)
This is the inside of the automatic AC controls
I think you might need all three lights installed to allow them to light up but you can see from the picture an led strip WILL fit nicely in place of the left 2 lights.
Heres a thought, Looking at the board now, you could maybe shave down an LED strip to squeeze by the buttons or probably run two separate LED strips from both the left and the right sides of the board and then wire them into that little T5 light that shines downward onto the ashtray area.
This is the inside of the automatic AC controls
I think you might need all three lights installed to allow them to light up but you can see from the picture an led strip WILL fit nicely in place of the left 2 lights.
Heres a thought, Looking at the board now, you could maybe shave down an LED strip to squeeze by the buttons or probably run two separate LED strips from both the left and the right sides of the board and then wire them into that little T5 light that shines downward onto the ashtray area.
#555
take dash apart and remove the Radio/Acc with brackets still attached. then outside of the car or on your lap remove the 4 screws that hold onto the Acc. You will need to pull on the brackets slightly outwards and pull the acc back and downwards because of the way it nestles under the radio faceplate and between the brackets.
Once the Acc is out, there is 4 little silver screws that are out in the open that hold onto the faceplate/circuit board. remove those and the faceplate should just come right off and you will be able to swap bulbs. When you put the faceplate back onto the body of the Acc make sure you dont bend any pins and it requires almost no force to get it seated correctly
#556
Very easy. If you know how to get the Acc out of the dash then skip to the second paragraph below
take dash apart and remove the Radio/Acc with brackets still attached. then outside of the car or on your lap remove the 4 screws that hold onto the Acc. You will need to pull on the brackets slightly outwards and pull the acc back and downwards because of the way it nestles under the radio faceplate and between the brackets.
Once the Acc is out, there is 4 little silver screws that are out in the open that hold onto the faceplate/circuit board. remove those and the faceplate should just come right off and you will be able to swap bulbs. When you put the faceplate back onto the body of the Acc make sure you dont bend any pins and it requires almost no force to get it seated correctly
take dash apart and remove the Radio/Acc with brackets still attached. then outside of the car or on your lap remove the 4 screws that hold onto the Acc. You will need to pull on the brackets slightly outwards and pull the acc back and downwards because of the way it nestles under the radio faceplate and between the brackets.
Once the Acc is out, there is 4 little silver screws that are out in the open that hold onto the faceplate/circuit board. remove those and the faceplate should just come right off and you will be able to swap bulbs. When you put the faceplate back onto the body of the Acc make sure you dont bend any pins and it requires almost no force to get it seated correctly
#557
Very strange. I forget the history here but did you try mixing other bulbs/bases in that same slot to make sure it wasn't something other than the wedge itself? Maybe that particular connection?
#558
I tried to put another working led w/ wedge in that hole, it was lit up with no problem, and I tried to put the bad wedge in another hole, not lit up...So im pretty sure its the wedge...Now I plan to order one from the dealer...
#559
Doh, sorry to hear about that! I guess there's always a chance that something small and delicate like that can break when modifying things. If you have a local Pick-U-Part or junkyard you could try there first but that might be more hassle than paying the dealer big bucks for the real deal.
#560
Doh, sorry to hear about that! I guess there's always a chance that something small and delicate like that can break when modifying things. If you have a local Pick-U-Part or junkyard you could try there first but that might be more hassle than paying the dealer big bucks for the real deal.