I've found a replacement at a local junkyard from a 2000. My car is a 2002. Are they the same part number over the years? Is it an easy thing to replace?

 

Yes it's like a 20 mins job very easy but I don't no if a 2000 would work on a 2002 but here's a link to help u out
http://www.nissanhelp.com/diy/maxima..._amplifier.htm

 

Checked the part numbers for a 2000 and a 2002 blower motor on Autozone.com's website and they are the same.

 

How much for the blower at junkyard? I bought one but it wasnt the problem, so im trying to sell it..

 

It has a little different design in the connector but it will work

Typically they go for around 50.00

 

If you want I can send u mine for 40 shipped

 

Thanks for the link. Looks dead easy.

Thank you sir. Based on this post and double checking, I went and grabbed it.


What was your problem? I had a mouse in mine which killed the wheel and the bushings.

I paid $25 + tax = $26.50.

 

A common reason why the blower motor stops blowing is the resistor that controls the fan speeds, I have replaced mine twice over the past four years. The resistor on the digital control systems is quite expensive compared to the manual control units.

This is the resistor you will see it right next to the blower motor and held in by two Philips screws,

 

Mine still spins fine but its clunking and grinding due to a mouse and nest.

 

Dumb *** mouse thinking it wants to be a hamster, and can use a Maxima blower motor wheel as an exercise wheel

 

It was that resistor. Dealer wanted 108$ for it. Luckly I had exactly same on at my local junkyard, 10$ lol

 

When I first turned it on, it squeaked and thudded around for a few seconds.

Then....

I heard the squish.

Yeah. Good times.

 

For sure 10.00 is a good price up here in Ontario the scrap yard wanted 70.00 and the stealership well for the digital control units they want 157.00 and for the manual control they want 51.00 ... hwy robbery

 

Is there a way to test whether or not the resistor is truly buggered?

The fuses are fine and I can run the fan nicely with a 9v battery so I'm guessing resistor, but I'd like to be sure before I shell out for a new resistor.

edit... I've since checked the output at the Fan plug with the resistor in place and don't get voltage about 0.3V (even with the fan set to 'high' on the climate control)... I'm thinking that really isn't right.

 

There are two 15 amp fuses for the blower motor circuitry. They are in the fuseblock that is under the hood by the battery.

There is a schematic of the resistor in the 2002 FSM, page HA-195. The FSM says to put the neg lead on pin 1 and use the pos lead to measure pins 2, 3 and 4.

pin 2 should read .3 to .5 ohm
pin 3 should read .9 to 1.1 ohm
pin 4 should read 2.75 to 2.95 ohm

and just to drive you crazy, the pins in the connector are numbered 1, 2, 4, 3.

The resistor has an internal fuse in it. It is connected between pin 1 and the resistor, so if you read an open between pin 1 and any other pin, the fuse is blown.

 

Very much appreciated, looks like more metering fun for me!

Just one issue, there's only 3 prongs on the resistor (like the pic in post 8)... I downloaded the FSM and I can't follow where it makes the jump to 4 pins.

Pity this isn't fixable with a hammer

 

I pulled the resistor out of my 2K and looked at it. It does not look like it is a resistor at all. It looks like it is a transistor, more specifically, a Darlington driver transistor. This makes sense that there are only 3 wires, 2 heavy gauge and one small gauge wire. That's all a power amplifier transistor needs.

Years back, I burned out the "resistor" on my 94 Maxima. When I disassembled it to replace the resistor, I discovered it wasn't a resistor, it was a transistor. Reading the number on the transistor, it was a Darlington driver transistor, a proprietary transistor that I could never get anywhere except from dear old Nissan.

Because of your post and looking at my "resistor", I looked at my 94 FSM (which I never did back then) and it shows the same thing as the 2002 FSM - a 4 pin connector with a fuse and resistors. I remember that the connector in my 94 only had 3 wires, just like now.

Interesting...

 

Boy I wish I had looked for an FSM first...

Anyway, following the trouble shooting flow in the FSM has me down to the sunload sensor. Apparently the heater needs to know how sunny it is outside before it the fan will blow? WTF?!?

It says to test the sensor in sunlight, and as it is almost 11pm that is gonna have to wait.

Thanks for the guidance, and thanks to whoever it was who put up the FSM I've been using!

 

Looks like when it is all said and done it looks like the auto amp behind the climate control unit is what crapped out. Specifically it isn't reducing the voltage on the fan's feedback loop, no lowered voltage, no fan motion.

Looks like the part is $97 at Courtesy Nissan, after a 300km drive in 26C heat I think I'm ordering one STAT.

The FSM probably saved me a pile of cash at the dealership... here's hoping the auto amp does the trick.

 

I replaced my blower motor in my 2002 GLE due to odd noises and lack of air being blown. When I did I only got full speed air. Settings 1,2,and 3 still blew full air. I have the climate control so I have the fan control amplifier. The dealer wants $123 and Advance wants $83 for the part. I got the part from my local junkyard for $6 each. I got one from a 2000, and one from a 2001 just in case. They looked corroded but it didn't matter. They both work. The store pulled up the part with the black plastic but it's the one with the white plastic. Take yours off to make sure. It's really easy to remove. Yes also as stated earlier check the two 15 amp fuses under the hood. Everything is labeled. Another note: Change your cabin filters if you change your blower motor. I have a feeling they had something to do with my initial problem. They were absolutely FILTHY!